Italian Riviera 2025, part 4 (Sanremo, Riva Ligure, Cavi; BONUS: Menton, Nice)

In the previous part of the story about my stay on the Italian Riviera in June 2025, I reached the church in Sanremo that I especially wanted to visit. It is the Russian Orthodox Church of Christ the Saviour, which is simply referred to as the Russian Church or Chiesa Russa.

Russian Orthodox Church of Christ the Saviour

Its construction began in 1912 based on a design inspired by 17th-century Moscow churches and the church was consecrated in 1913. At that time, there were many Orthodox residents throughout this area, including the French Riviera (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/french-riviera-3/, so there was a need for a spiritual centre.

Russian Orthodox Church of Christ the Saviour

I am not particularly religious, but this church is especially interesting because it is connected to the Montenegrin royal family from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Through the marriages of the daughters of King Nikola of Montenegro (b/r. 1841/1860–1918), who held the title of prince until 1910, the family was also linked to Serbia and Italy, among others. One of his daughters, Zorka, was married to the future king of Yugoslavia, Petar I Karađorđević, and was the mother of the future King Aleksandar I Karađorđević (from the Serbian dynasty).

However, here in Italy, the more important story is that of Jelena Petrović, daughter of King Nikola, who was married to the Italian King Vittorio Emanuele III and is known by the Italian version of her name – Elena.

I already mentioned in the previous part of the story the park in Sanremo named after this queen (Giardini Regina Elena) and here, in the courtyard of the Russian Church, there are also two sculptures of King Vittorio Emanuele III and Queen Elena, during whose reign the church was built.

Russian Orthodox Church of Christ the Saviour, a detail

I first entered the church, but I didn’t stay there long.

Russian Orthodox Church of Christ the Saviour, a detail

I have to admit that I found it more interesting to go down into the crypt. At one time, the crypt of the church held the remains of Elena’s parents, King Nikola and Queen Milena, as well as two unmarried sisters, Ksenija and Vjera. However, in 1989, their remains were transferred and reburied in Cetinje, Montenegro. Still, various details have remained here in the crypt of the Russian Church in Sanremo, making it a kind of museum.

Russian Orthodox Church of Christ the Saviour, a detail

King Nikola and Queen Milena had 12 children, 9 of whom were daughters. Two died young, and of the remaining ones, five were married into various European royal families, which earned King Nikola the nickname “Father-in-law of Europe.” At one time, when I did a lot of hiking in Montenegro and visited Njeguši and Cetinje several times, I heard that King Nikola was very wise, not only did he successfully marry off his daughters across Europe, but he also kept the two “smartest” ones unmarried and close to him. So, these two were also buried here in the crypt, and later transferred to Cetinje along with their parents.

Russian Orthodox Church of Christ the Saviour, a detail

After visiting the crypt, I practically started heading back towards the centre of the city, but I wasn’t in a hurry and didn’t intend to go there directly. To begin with, I took one last look back at the Russian Church in Sanremo and then continued along the main street in this part of the city.

Russian Orthodox Church of Christ the Saviour

Sanremo, a detail

And then, at one point, I turned onto a wide street with a park full of sculptures in its centre, in order to get closer to the sea.

Sanremo, a detail

Upon reaching the seaside, I sat down at a café and refreshed myself quite nicely with a panaché.

Sanremo, a detail

I was quite hot, so this refreshment, along with sitting in the shade, felt very pleasant. Still, after a while, I continued walking and casually exploring Sanremo.

Sanremo, a detail

That’s how I passed through the square called Piazza Bresca, which I correctly concluded is the perfect part of the city for going out, especially in the evening. When I was passing through, it was late afternoon, but the temperature was high, so almost no one was sitting on the terraces of the numerous restaurants and cafés.

Sanremo, a detail

By now, I was ready to return to Riva Ligure, but I still took a photo of the Fontana dello Zampillo, which is located near the main bus station in Sanremo.

Sanremo, a detail

As I was slowly leaving Sanremo by bus, I passed by Villa Nobel, the historic villa where Alfred Nobel once lived (and died in 1896). Today, it houses a museum, though its opening hours are quite limited. On the other hand, the gardens belonging to the villa are exceptionally beautiful and open to the public. Various events are also held at the villa.

Sanremo, a detail

A little while later, I arrived in Riva Ligure and went down to the beach to meet Paola and Francesco there.

Riva Ligure, a detail

That evening, we had plans to go out with their friends (two couples), and the plan was to go to a nearby restaurant in the town of Cavi, which is known for its good seafood.

Dinner in Cavi

The food was certainly excellent, but the company was even better. I enjoyed sitting at the same table with six wonderfully cheerful, laughing and chatty Italians (are there any others?). It was a fantastic evening and in the end I even received a gift – a bottle of homemade chocolate liqueur, which I “had to” bring back to Belgrade (Paola insisted!). In this way, through my memory and the chocolate liqueur, that pleasant evening was extended on my terrace for some time.

The next morning, I went to the beach with Paola and a little later Francesco joined us, along with two Annas and their husbands (friends I had met the previous evening). Since I don’t like being in the sun after 10 a.m., Francesco kept me company and we went for coffee.

By the way, at one point Francesco asked me why I call him like that. You see, Paola calls him Franco, which is actually his name. I have to admit I was a bit confused, then I remembered and told him I met him under that name on the Way of St. James in 2018, and everyone called him that there. I suppose I should start calling him Franco too, but it feels a bit unusual and in my mind he will always be Francesco – my wonderful pilgrim friend from the Way and my “fratellone” (big brother).

In any case, after lunch, Francesco and I drove to France, specifically to the town of Menton, which is about 45 km from Riva Ligure. Francesco had some business to take care of there, while I just kept him company. That was no trouble at all, as Menton is an exceptionally beautiful place on the French Riviera (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/french-riviera-3/).

The plan was to go there along the road closer to the sea and return via the less interesting and scenic motorway.

On the road to Menton

Near the village of Mortola Inferiore, close to the French border, we stopped because the views in every direction were absolutely stunning.

Mortola Inferiore

Italian Riviera, a detail

Although parts of Italy are visible in the foreground of the next photo, Menton itself could already be seen not too far away.

Italian Riviera, a detail

Soon, we arrived in Menton and France.

Menton

Since Menton left me with very fond memories, I was very happy to recognise some of the buildings, such as the central market building.

Menton, a detail

Francesco first drove us to the spot where the seaside walking trail begins, which runs along this part of the French Riviera. For example, from here, one can walk all the way to Monaco, while the length of the trail is about 15 km.

Menton, a detail

As avid walking enthusiasts, Francesco and I “had” to take a selfie in this spot.

Selfie with Francesco

I also took a few shots of the sea and the surrounding areas, and then we could get back in the car and drive to the centre of Menton.

Part of the French Riviera near Menton

Menton, a detail

After parking the car in the town centre, we walked around a bit and I was really glad to be back here. We also sat down at a café to refresh ourselves a little.

Menton, a detail

The Italian border is less than 4 km east from here, while the hill visible in the next photo is already in Italy.

Menton, a detail

When I was in Menton in 2022, I didn’t get a proper look at St. Michael’s Steps (Rampe St-Michel), so this time I took the opportunity. The view from the street by the sea is truly beautiful, showcasing both the steps and the Basilica of Saint-Michael the Archangel (Basilique Saint-Michel Archange de Menton).

Menton, a detail

I took a few more shots of the surroundings, and then Francesco and I headed back to the car and took the motorway back to Italy and Riva Ligure.

Menton, a detail

I spent the next couple of days quite peacefully, spending time with my friends. In the mornings, I would start by enjoying the beautiful view from the terrace of their flat. Besides the flowers nearby, you can also see numerous glass greenhouses on the surrounding hills, where flowers are cultivated, something I’ve written about before.

Italian Riviera, a detail

Then Paola and I would go to the beach (Francesco always had something to do), and we would settle there while I went for a swim.

Riva Ligure

Riva Ligure, a detail

Around noon, we would return home for lunch and an afternoon rest, then go back to the beach later.

Riva Ligure

Riva Ligure, a detail

Our friends from the dinner a few days earlier would also join us on the beach, making it very pleasant with lots of chatting and funny stories. Admittedly, I would head for coffee around 10 a.m., since I don’t like being in the sun when it’s strong.

Riva Ligure, a detail

I would also occasionally go for a short walk around Riva Ligure and take a few photos.

Riva Ligure, a detail

I found it particularly interesting to see metal rods attached to the walls of many houses. I probably wouldn’t have noticed them if I hadn’t been told that these rods were installed on old buildings in order to structurally reinforce them in case of an earthquake.

Riva Ligure, a detail

In the late afternoons and early evenings, Paola, Francesco and I would take a walk around town, and we’d always stop for ice cream. Such top-notch treats in Italy should never be missed, especially when the gelateria is known for its high-quality ice cream.

Riva Ligure, a detail

After a nice walk, we’d return home for dinner and a bit more chatting before going to bed.

The night before last, while we were eating at the table, Francesco said to me, “Verica, do you want to go for a walk tomorrow – 25 km there and back?” I was momentarily stunned when Paola jumped in to help: “Franco, let the woman rest. She’s going home the day after tomorrow, so let her go to the beach tomorrow.” To remind you – Francesco was 81 years old at that time! Oh yes. That’s exactly how I want to grow old – not only with the same level of fitness, but also with that kind of willpower. Absolutely wonderful!

So, the next day I went to the beach in the morning, then for coffee, then home for lunch and rest, and back to the beach again... But in the evening, the three of us went to visit Rosi, their friend who lives with her husband in the hills near Bussana Vecchia (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/italian-riviera-2/).

View at Bussana Vecchia

While the sun was still out, I took the opportunity to capture some details of the beautiful estate around the house. There was a caper bush that Rosi preserves in salt, as well as olive trees, rosemary, and more...

At Rosi’s

And, of course, there was amazing food.

At Rosi’s

The next day, it was already time for me to head back home. As I had planned, I took buses to Ventimiglia (with a transfer in Sanremo), and from there I travelled by train to Nice.

I left early enough to be sure I'd catch my flight even if there were some transportation delays, but in the end, I ended up with a little over an hour of extra time. So I easily decided to spend that time in Nice.

First, I left my bag at the cloakroom in Nice’s train station and then set off for a walk. I didn’t go far or have any ambitious plans; I just enjoyed a relaxed stroll through part of the city centre and stopped somewhere for a light lunch. Along the way, I also took a few photos.

Nice, a detail

When it was time to think about heading to the airport, I returned to the train station, picked up my bag from the cloakroom and soon boarded a train that took me just one stop, after which I transferred to a tram.

Nice, a detail

Everything went smoothly at the airport and I was home not long after.

Here is the map showing all the places I visited during this trip in June 2025:

And what can I say to close? I’ll say what I told everyone when I got back from Italy. I was there as a guest of wonderful people, the best, those who are like we used to be. Maybe I’m exaggerating a bit in that last part; there are still wonderful people in my country and everywhere in the world. But Paola and Francesco are “old-fashioned” people in the best sense of the word. You don’t find that much anymore in cities within the “Western culture.” Not only did they welcome and host me as if we were close family or lifelong friends, but in the end, I was “forced” to bring back to Belgrade several jars of homemade preserves that Paola makes, and there was even a large fresh lemon in my bag “because it wasn’t sprayed.”

I just hope that time and circumstances will allow them to come visit me. There’s no sea in Belgrade, but there are other beautiful things, and I live close to the promenade along the Danube, so Francesco and I can walk there every day. Admittedly, maybe not the full 25 km he would surely love, but in the end, we can go back and forth multiple times if it’s really important to “rack up” the mileage.

It would be my great pleasure and honour to host them, and I can only hope to be at least half as hospitable and a good host as they were.

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