Svuda podji - travel stories

Norway 2024, part 15 (Rjukan, Lake Tinn, Heddal, Kongsberg)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 14 Aug 2026 15:58:00 GMT

On the last day of my stay in Norway in April 2024, I had an evening flight back to Belgrade from Oslo Airport, which meant I had to drive about 230 km. However, I had planned everything perfectly, even to arrive at the airport an hour before the scheduled time for returning the car because my idea was to do everything calmly and without stress. That’s how I planned it, but the Universe had other ideas. In any case, I didn’t rush too much.

I even took a little walk along the Måna River in Rjukan, which wasn’t a problem since the guesthouse where I stayed was nearby. As I mentioned in part 14 of my travelogue, when I arrived in Rjukan the previous day, I found out that I was the only guest at the guesthouse, which wasn’t exactly small. Half of the building, including the reception area, was under renovation, that was clear, but even in the half where I was staying, there was no one else – neither a guest nor any staff members. Not only did the whole town of Rjukan resemble a ghost town, but this guesthouse also reflected the spirit of the place.

The night before, when I returned from dinner and went to my room, I realised I didn’t have internet because I didn’t know the password. It was quite important for me to resolve this, so I locked my room (just in case) and then started walking through the empty corridors of the guesthouse. Left and right, down, along a long hallway, to a door that was closed but not locked, then using some stairs to another door... Finally, I reached the room where the reception was located, where, of course, there was absolutely no one. However, from experience, I know that there are often signs at receptions with the username and password for the internet, and that was the case here too, so soon I had a connection to the outside world.

The internet connection was good and the room where I stayed was both good and comfortable, but... I usually don’t comment on prices – either I can afford something or I can’t, and that’s the end of it. However, ... I did pay for the room here, in other words, I could afford it, but I still consider this the most overpriced place I have ever stayed at. Norway is known for being an expensive country, but I can’t say that the price of the room at this guesthouse in Rjukan was high – it was outrageously inappropriate.

But let me return to the story about the short walk along the Måna River. It was a nice, sunny and slightly chilly morning, but that freshness and light felt quite pleasant.

The Måna in Rjukan

I soon left Rjukan, but I quickly stopped to take a few photos of the narrow valley where Rjukan is located, which I was just leaving, as well as the surrounding mountains, now bathed in the morning sun.

Mountain above Rjukan

By the way, Rjukan isn’t just a destination for idle people like me who are “chasing” UNESCO World Heritage sites; it also offers many hiking and trekking trails, beautiful waterfalls and so on. Of course, I couldn’t do any of that as I didn’t have the time, but I’m not complaining.

Soon, I reached the vicinity where the Måna River flows into Lake Tinn.

The Måna right before its confluence

I drove over the bridge visible in the previous photo, but soon I stopped again at a large parking area. From there, I had a great view of part of Lake Tinn, which, with an area of over 51 sq. km, is one of the largest lakes in Norway. Its maximum length is 35 km and on this day I was driving along a road that closely followed the shoreline of the lake. The views were occasionally incredibly beautiful, but I could stop very rarely.

Lake Tinn

Not knowing what the road and views would be like later on, I stopped here because there was plenty of space. I was also pleased to see very long and not too soft grass, which was so dense that it felt like walking on some kind of cushion.

Grass beside Lake Tinn

Not far off, I also passed by the Mæl Station, which was an important part of the Rjukan-Notodden industrial complex.

Mæl Station

As for the road, it occasionally ascended above the level of the lake, but there were relatively few places where I could stop. Nonetheless, every moment was worth it.

View at Lake Tinn

One spot was particularly beautiful. There was no parking there, just a turn-off from the main road that was essentially a private drive, but I stopped very briefly, took the photos I wanted and then continued along the main road.

View at Lake Tinn

A bit farther on, the road veered away from the lake and once again led through areas where a lot of trees were being cut down for lumber production.

South Norway, a detail

As I’ve mentioned earlier, Norway has only about 2% of arable land, whereas, for comparison, Serbia has around 30%. Among other things, this is why Norway had to, and still has to, find other sources of income.

By the mid-1970s, oil exploration began, which initially didn’t yield good results. However, large oil and gas fields were later discovered in Norway’s territorial waters in the North Sea and today, about 20% of the revenue of this wealthy Scandinavian country comes from the production of these energy resources.

In the meantime, I was driving past the rare agricultural fields that were ready for the new production season.

South Norway, a detail

At some point, I arrived at the Heddal Stave Church (Heddal stavkyrke). This wooden church also opens seasonally starting in early May, but it was conveniently on my route, so it made perfect sense to stop by.

Heddal Stave Church

This church is also surrounded by a cemetery, so I first took a quick look around the churchyard and then I went to the main gate that leads to the church.

Heddal Stave Church, the churchyard

Heddal Stave Church

Heddal Stave Church was most likely built in the early 13th century and, of course, it is entirely made of wood, though it is set on a stone foundation. Out of the 28 surviving medieval wooden churches in Norway, this one in Heddal is considered one of the largest and is certainly the only one with three towers.

The church is still in use today, but only during the summer when it is open to visitors. Additionally, from what I’ve read, it is quite popular for weddings.

As I walked from the parking area to the church, I saw a couple of elderly women entering the churchyard, so I assumed that at least the gate was not locked.

However, as I approached the church, I heard some voices and soon saw some young people exiting the ambulatory. Once they left, I entered and took some photos of the main door with the intention of walking around the nave of the church.

Heddal Stave Church, a detail

The western portal is nowadays primarily used to enter the church, but this was not always the case. In the Middle Ages, women entered from the northern side, men entered from the southern side, while priests also entered from the south, but directly into the choir area.

The western portal was used for children being brought into the church for baptism. It was believed that the devil had power over those who were not baptised, so this door needed to have decorations providing the utmost protection. As a result, it features a multitude of serpents and dragons – “with evil shall evil be expelled.”

On the left pillar is a somewhat grotesque, bent-over lion symbolising Christ's victory over Judas (depicted here as a lion), while on the right side are two bears engaged in their struggle, holding each other by the snouts. This representation is meant to bind and prevent devilry from entering the church.

Heddal Stave Church, a detail

For some unclear reason, it occurred to me to try the door and it... opened. I was completely confused but also absolutely thrilled. Inside, there were 3-4 people, so I went in. A lady approached me and asked which language I spoke, so when we established that it was English, she informed me that the church was open as a matter of exception, for a private viewing, but she could let me stay for a short while.

Heddal Stave Church, a detail

After I had looked around and taken photos of the inside of the church, I asked the lady if I could walk around the ambulatory and she replied: "Yes, but quickly."

Heddal Stave Church, a detail

Indeed, as quickly as I could, I completed the walk around the ambulatory and then thanked the lady, who remained inside and locked the first door leading from the outside to the ambulatory.

Then I spent a little more time walking around the church, photographing various details.

Heddal Stave Church, a detail

Heddal Stave Church

In front of the Heddal Stave Church

Heddal Stave Church, a detail

I also saw a wooden tower here, but it was outside the churchyard. I believe it is part of an open-air museum showcasing traditional buildings, but the museum was closed and it operates only during the three summer months. I was only able to see and photograph one more sculpture.

Heddal Stave Church complex

Heddal Stave Church complex, a detail

I lingered a little longer, admiring the church, and then, immensely satisfied, continued on my journey.

Heddal Stave Church

I soon arrived in the town of Notodden, which, along with Rjukan, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its industrial cultural heritage. It is situated on the shores of Lake Heddal (Heddalsvatnet).

Notodden

At one point, I managed to capture an interesting traffic sign.

Sign by the road

I also stopped at a parking area next to a picturesque little lake from which a stream flowed and I wanted to take photos of this place.

Bodies of water in southern Norway

My intention was not to drive aimlessly and stop at every visually appealing spot.

On the contrary, I had a very clear plan: to visit another church that, while not as old or picturesque as the wooden ones I had seen during my stay in Norway, is the largest church in the country. This is the Kongsberg Church. From what I’ve read, its interior is exceptionally beautiful, but... the church is open to visitors only twice a week and only for one hour each time! It would have been nearly impossible to plan my trip around that schedule.

However, that didn’t stop me from wanting to see the church, so I went ahead with my plan. I intended to get out of the car and take a short walk around the church, but when I parked, I first wanted to set up the navigation on both my phone and the car's device (for different reasons, just one device alone wouldn't suffice). I was in total shock when both devices suggested that in order to reach the airport, my final destination, I should take a completely roundabout northern route, which would take about 3 hours! I didn’t have that much time, while the logical route was the "southern route" via Oslo.

I concluded that the navigation devices were clueless; after all, they even suggested taking a roundabout route to Oslo instead of the direct highway, while they also failed to recognise the name of a town on the way to Oslo (yes, modern technology isn’t always the best solution).

Because of all this, I only took photos of the church from the parking lot and then continued on my way.

Kongsberg Church

I barely managed to set up the navigation properly since I needed to get from Kongsberg Church to the highway.

Everything started out great and I was able to head towards Oslo and then to the airport quickly. The estimated arrival time was just a few minutes past the planned time, but still well before my flight's departure.

Then... a catastrophic traffic jam hit. All the cars in both lanes were crawling. I kept checking the time and the remaining distance, but the cars continued to crawl, sometimes coming to a complete stop. It was fortunate that I was in the left lane, as it was moving a bit faster. I had no idea how long the queue was or how long it would last, while the time was ticking away. Then, suddenly, everything seemed to start moving again as if nothing had happened.

I didn't dwell on the reasons and managed to reach Oslo. There, I was able to fine-tune the navigation on both devices, so everything was under control.

I also stopped at a gas station to refuel, as required before returning the car, and then continued towards the airport. I was less than 30 km away.

And then... another traffic jam, worse than the previous one. There was more stopping and when it moved, it only covered a few metres at a time. At one point, an ambulance passed in the emergency lane. It became clear that something serious had happened. It always unsettles me, regardless of who is involved and where it occurs.

But I couldn’t focus too much on the fates of others because I was dealing with my own issues. Time was passing, the deadline for returning the car had arrived and then passed (which worried me the least since I had rented the car for five days, but needed it for only four days and five hours). The cars were still mostly stopped or moving slower than a snail. I began to think about where I might stay overnight in Oslo if I missed my flight. I considered sending a message to my “hosts” in Oslo, where I had rented a room before. Maybe they would have that room available for one more night.

Meanwhile, I kept reminding myself that there was no point in stressing out because things would happen as they would, while my anxiety wouldn't change anything. After all, it would just be another experience in life.

The traffic continued to crawl or stop for a minute or two. Then, suddenly, everything started moving again. Initially, there was congestion, but the traffic moved much faster (though still below the speed limit) and soon it cleared up considerably. I was able to drive safely and quickly to the airport, where I parked the car, took some photos of it (just in case) and then returned the keys.

I arrived on time, checked in smoothly, and a few hours later, I was home, relaxed and at ease.

In conclusion, I can say that the trip to Norway was extremely fascinating for several reasons.

On one hand, it was a new destination that I knew was very beautiful, but also quite expensive. Both descriptions turned out to be accurate.

In Oslo, I felt as though I had lived there before; everything seemed easy to navigate and orient myself, and everything went smoothly and effortlessly.

Travelling by car through southern Norway was spectacular. I wouldn’t have been able to see and do so much in such a short time any other way. I had incredible luck with the weather – it was ideal. Although one day was quite cloudy and there was some sporadic rain, it was nothing compared to what it could have been. So, I repeat, I was exceptionally fortunate in that regard.

The impressions and the beauty of the landscapes, which I tried to capture with my camera and phone, filled my soul to such an extent that I felt as if I had spent a month exploring this magically beautiful country.

Norway 2024, part 14 (Uvdal, Imingfjell mountain area, Lake Tinn, Rjukan)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 07 Aug 2026 15:50:00 GMT

In Uvdal, there are two wooden churches, but they are not equally significant. I came here primarily to see the Uvdal Stave Church (Uvdal stavkirke) that is located on a hillside and requires taking a local road off the main route between Nore and Uvdal.

The wooden stave church in Uvdal is considered an important cultural monument due to its age and it is one of 28 similar wooden churches with that status. These churches were built using staves, large wooden posts that serve as supporting columns, hence the name for this type of church.

The other wooden church in Uvdal is located right next to the main road, in the centre of the village, but it is considered a “modern” church. I visited it later.

For now, I headed towards the Uvdal Stave Church, which I knew was not seasonally open, but that was certainly not a reason not to take the local road leading uphill. It turned out that I did the right thing. The church was still closed, but the view of it, the open-air museum with traditional village buildings made of wooden logs and planks, and the valley was exceptional.

Uvdal Stave Church complex

While walking towards the church, I first noted the traditional wooden houses that can be seen here. Everything was exceptionally picturesque.

Uvdal Stave Church complex

As for the church, I was momentarily worried about whether the gate was open, but there was no need for concern – nothing was locked (except the door leading into the church), so I was able to walk around easily.

Uvdal Stave Church

Uvdal Stave Church, a detail

The church was originally built after 1168, but was expanded several times to accommodate more people. This church, like the one in Nore, has a Greek cross plan, and due to the uniqueness of this style in Scandinavia, it has a special name – the Nummedals-type, named after the Numedal valley where these churches are located.

Uvdal Stave Church

Since it was closed, I could only walk around it and examine a few details.

Uvdal Stave Church, a detail

The entire interior of the church is exceptionally richly decorated, especially with murals. I could see this for myself by peeking through a few windows that were accessible to me.

Uvdal Stave Church, a detail

When I finished the circle around the church, I took more photos of it, as well as of the beautiful view of the Numedal valley stretching east to west.

Uvdal Stave Church

Numedal valley

Then I retraced my steps back to the car, closing the gate behind me.

Uvdal Stave Church

However, I was exceptionally filled with a sense of satisfaction here and this turned into inspiration and a desire to entertain myself further. Thus, we arrive at Mlog No. 9. This time, it’s Solveig's Song by the Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg (1843-1907). I had already explained the details about this song (see: https://svudapodji.com/en/norway-11/) while writing about sailing the fjords near Bergen, but the song came to my mind again here, so I sang it with all the la-la-la. There are many better performances of this beautiful song, but that should never stop anyone from having a good fun.

I took another photo of the Uvdal Stave Church complex and then I was able to continue on.

Uvdal Stave Church complex

Then I descended the local road that led me to the main road and the “modern” Uvdal church I have already mentioned. It is also made of wood, but to distinguish it from the smaller, significantly older one on the hillside, it does not have the term "stave" in its name. It was consecrated in 1893 and was thoroughly restored in the mid-20th century.

Uvdal Church

Here, too, I simply walked around the church, examining some details, and then returned to the car to continue my journey.

Uvdal Church, a detail

Uvdal Church

Uvdal Church, a detail

Now I was ready to head to the final destination for the day, which was the town of Rjukan, located about 80 km from Uvdal. I quickly turned off the main road leading to the town of Geilo and soon found myself on a winding road. Just 20 minutes later, I was in the snowy realm of the Imingfjell mountain area. Fortunately, I soon came across a pull-out along the road where I could park and peacefully admire the beauty of the snowy expanse on a perfectly sunny day.

Imingfjell mountain area

I even climbed up onto a stone wall to get a better view of the surroundings.

Imingfjell mountain area

But, I didn’t stay long because I needed to move on. The whole time I was thinking about how lucky I was that the weather was sunny and dry. If it had been cloudy, there might have been fog at this altitude, or it could have rained or snowed, which would have significantly made my drive more difficult and slower. As it was, the drive was a real pleasure!

Imingfjell mountain area

As can be seen in the previous photo, here as well, just like on the Hallingskarv plateau, where I passed a few hours earlier, there are houses, but they were almost all surrounded by deep snow.

Imingfjell mountain area

Some are, however, built right beside the road, so access to them is easier.

Imingfjell mountain area

Here, too, in several places, I saw parked cars where no one was around, so I again assumed that the owners had gone out for Nordic skiing, which is very popular throughout Scandinavia. It was indeed a shame to miss out on such a beautiful day.

Imingfjell mountain area

I didn’t go skiing, but I truly enjoyed the drive, while soon enough the road began to descend. This was evident from the change in vegetation, too.

Imingfjell mountain area

There were also more frequent signs of human habitation and at one point I noticed a traditionally built wooden cabin, as well as something that looked like a small sawmill.

Descending from the Imingfjell mountain area

Traditionally built wooden cabin

Descending from the Imingfjell mountain area

The sawmill didn’t surprise me too much, as I was driving through forests, but I must admit I was a bit shocked when I saw the hillsides with fallen trees.

Central parts of southern Norway

In some places, I passed by houses as well as by what were clearly commercial buildings, likely for processing timber. I still hardly saw anyone, but this time around, it seemed somewhat normal since it was Sunday afternoon.

Central parts of southern Norway

Now I could only see snow on the mountain peaks, but I still greatly enjoyed the drive. I usually don’t have any strong feelings about driving; I see it practically – if I need to go somewhere by car, I just drive and that’s it. However, here I really enjoyed driving. Perhaps it was also because I hardly encountered any other cars on the road, so I could be completely relaxed and enjoy the spectacularly beautiful day.

Central parts of southern Norway

Then the road took me to Lake Tinn (Tinnsjå), which, with an area of over 51 sq. km, is one of the largest lakes in Norway. It is also one of the deepest lakes in Europe, with a maximum depth of 460 meters.

Lake Tinn

In April, the sun sets slowly in Northern Europe, so I didn’t have to worry about whether I would reach my final destination before dark. After all, I was only about 30 km from the town of Rjukan, where I had booked a room.

On the road to Rjukan

Along the way, I passed by another of the many waterfalls that exist in Norway.

On the road to Rjukan

Here is the map that shows where I drove on this day:

The main reason I came here is that Rjukan, along with the town of Notodden, which is about 75 km away, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its industrial heritage. The industry in these areas developed in the early 20th century, when the demand for agricultural products began to rise in the Western world, creating a need for artificial fertilisers. It was here that the Norsk Hydro Company started producing artificial fertiliser from nitrogen found in the air.

To support this, hydroelectric plants, power lines, factories and transportation systems – including railways and ferries to ports where the fertiliser was loaded – were built in the region, along with towns. Buildings were constructed for the worker housing and all the necessary institutions in order to ensure the smooth functioning of the area. All of this illustrates how the new global industry developed in the early 20th century.

Even at the entrance to the town, you can see details that confirm all of this.

Rjukan

Since Rjukan was essentially built "from scratch" in the early decades of the 20th century, many of its accompanying institutions are relatively recent as well. For example, the Rjukan Church that was consecrated in 1915.

Rjukan Church

I drove to the guesthouse where I had booked a room two months earlier. As I approached the parking area, I saw that part of the guesthouse, including the main entrance, was under renovation, so I went to some side door. There was a note saying: "We closed at 6 PM. Here’s a phone number, please call us." The number listed was unclear to me – whether it was a mobile or landline, or if it required a local prefix, and what the prefix for Norway was. I didn’t have internet, but I did have roaming in case of an emergency.

Still, I first I went to a small kebab restaurant nearby, explained my situation, while the owner helped me by telling me that it was a mobile phone number and what the dialling code for Norway was. I sent a message and then waited for a few minutes. A man appeared, gave me the key to the side door and to my room, and then left. I was completely alone in the guesthouse.

After settling into the guesthouse, I even had time to take a walk around the town. Although most of Rjukan was in shadow and the sun was behind the horizon defined by mountain peaks, it hadn’t officially set yet, so it was still technically "daytime."

Rjukan

The town seemed incredibly empty, but that might not be surprising – it was cold and it was Sunday evening. Still, I couldn’t shake the feeling that I was in a ghost town.

Rjukan

I went to the main square in town, where you can find the municipal building and the city library (at least that’s what was written on the front facade).

Rjukan

However, in this part of the town, the most prominent feature was the hydroelectric power plant on the opposite bank of the local river, the Måna.

Rjukan

I photographed it along with the monument to Sam Eyde (1866-1940), one of the founders of the Norsk Hydro Company.

Rjukan

Speaking of monuments, near the main square there is also a monument to Gunnar Sønsteby (1918-2012), who was a member of the Norwegian resistance movement during WWII and who is the Norwegian with the highest honours in the country.

Rjukan

I also photographed some buildings that I believe were constructed for workers around a hundred years ago, as they have uniformed appearance.

Rjukan

Now, I was finally able to go eat something at one of the few places open, which was a local restaurant. I didn’t have great choice, but in the end, I was full and content.

Dinner in Rjukan

Drink in Rjukan

By the way, after I had already decided to visit Rjukan, I realised there was another interesting reason to come to this sleepy town. It’s known for a unique feature: Rjukan is located at the bottom of a narrow river valley and is surrounded by high mountains. The valley is so narrow and the surrounding mountains so high that, during the winter months (from September to March), the town doesn’t receive any direct sunlight. Of course, on clear days, the sunlit mountain peaks are visible, but the town remains in shadow.

To address this, a decision was made to place large mirrors on a suitable spot on the mountain top to reflect sunlight onto the town. This was done in 2013, but it’s not a fixture that illuminates the entire town; rather, it only reflects light onto the main square. Ultimately, it’s an artistic project.

I arrived in the second half of April, which was well into spring, so the mirrors didn’t need to be in operation while the next morning, direct sunlight streamed through the window of the room where I was staying. It was my last day in Norway on this trip.

Norway 2024, part 13 (Gudvangen, Undredal, Vassbygdevatnet lake, Nore)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 31 Jul 2026 15:16:00 GMT

Gudvangen is a small village in western Norway, but it is a significant tourist attraction since it is located at the end of the Nærøyfjord.

I have already mentioned that the Nærøyfjord is a narrow, 18 km long arm of the country's largest fjord, the Sognefjord, which I travelled along the previous day. The Nærøyfjord is only 500 meters wide in some places.

Together with another fjord from south-western Norway, the Geirangerfjord, the Nærøyfjord is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What makes them particularly beautiful is that they are surrounded by high, steep cliffs that rise to about 1,400 meters above sea level, while in some places, they go down for about 500 m below sea level. This depth is also part of what makes these fjords special.

Here, I drove to the parking lot and it was immediately clear that the visitor is in a particularly beautiful location, but this becomes even more apparent when crossing the bridge over the Nærøydalselvi River that flows into the fjord here.

Pedestrian bridge over the Nærøydalselvi river

Since the day was sunny and the air was clear, everything sparkled and was magnificently beautiful.

The Nærøydalselvi

The fact that it was sunny doesn’t mean it was warm. However, I was dressed appropriately, as evidenced by the selfie I had to take at such a beautiful spot.

Selfie over the Nærøydalselvi

And as for the Nærøyfjord, or rather, the part of it visible from here... photographs will illustrate its beauty much better than I could ever describe it.

Nærøyfjord

Since there was plenty of space here where I could set up my camera, I took some photos of me or, as I like to say, I made a few "professional selfies." Taking selfies with a mobile phone held in hand is for amateurs. I’m just kidding, of course, especially since I also take them from time to time, as seen in one of the previous photos.

Nærøyfjord

While I was setting up and taking photos, a sightseeing boat arrived. It’s worth mentioning that the fjord here is deep enough for both ferries and large cruise ships to navigate up to this point.

Nærøyfjord

Meanwhile, a group of people with their guide had gently entered the fjord waters in boats and started paddling. I believe it must be a truly enjoyable experience, but I certainly didn’t have time for that.

Nærøyfjord

Instead, I took another "professional selfie," and then I leisurely headed back to the car, taking a few more photos of this magnificent fjord along the way.

Nærøyfjord

Just one kilometre further, the road I was on entered the Gudvanga Tunnel. I was still under the strong impression of the beauty of the Nærøyfjord, so that I didn’t even notice the sign indicating the tunnel’s length when I entered. The Gudvanga Tunnel, which is 11.4 km long, is the third-longest tunnel in Norway as of 2024.

Of course, as I drove through the tunnel, it was clear to me how long it was. I had previously mentioned the Høyanger Tunnel, which I had passed a few days earlier and which was once the longest in Norway (7,543 m), but by the time of writing these stories, it had dropped to the 13th place. Interestingly, the longest tunnel in Norway at least in the first half of 2024 was the Lærdal Tunnel, which is 24.5 km long and also located in this part of the country that I had been travelling through. In fact, I had passed just a few hundred meters from its entrance. However fascinating tunnels may be to me, I had my own plan and needed to stick to it rather than just driving around Norwegian tunnels out of curiosity.

However, when I emerged from the Gudvanga Tunnel, I noticed a sign indicating that a left turn would lead to a stave church. I couldn’t miss that, so I turned off the main road and headed towards the village of Undredal. I was fascinated by how empty the nearly 7 km long road was. Neither when I was descending nor when I was returning to the main road a bit later did I encounter anyone. I wondered where all the Norwegians were and how they spent their days.

Road to the village of Undredal

In the village of Undredal, there is the smallest functioning wooden church in Northern Europe. It is the Undredal Stave Church, which measures 12x4 meters. The church was built around the year 1147.

Undredal Stave Church

At the time of my visit, the church was closed, so I just continued a little further down the road to turn around. I also took the opportunity to photograph the stunning fjord where this village with just over 100 residents is located. This is the Aurlandsfjord, which is also a branch of the large Sognefjord. The Nærøyfjord actually branches off from the Aurlandsfjord about 5 km north of Undredal. Moreover, parts of this fjord are also included in the UNESCO World Heritage natural site.

Undredal and Aurlandsfjord

On the way back, I passed by the Undredal Stave Church again and then returned along the same route to the main road. The elevation difference is about 350 meters.

Undredal Stave Church

From Undredal to the main road

The main road took me along the Aurlandsfjord and just about 1 km after it diverged from the fjord, the road splits into two directions – one going through the longest tunnel in Norway, while I headed in the other direction.

Aurlandsfjord

However, very soon I realised that I was driving through exceptionally beautiful landscapes, but I had to be very careful because the road was narrow and winding. I had to be patient until I reached a pull-off where I could safely stop.

Pull-off by the road

And what a place it was! This was Vassbygdevatnet Lake. The lake is linked with a hydroelectric power plant, but that didn’t detract from the beauty of the spot at all. I took quite a few photos again and here is a select few.

Vassbygdevatnet Lake

The reflections in the perfectly still waters of the lake were magnificent.

Vassbygdevatnet Lake

If I thought the road was winding up to this point, I can’t even begin to describe the road winding from Vassbygdevatnet Lake on. Not only does it wind, but it also dramatically ascends – from about 20 meters above sea level to a plateau at around 1,000 meters above sea level. To start with, one has to pass through a series of tunnels that wind uphill through the mountain, some of which are stacked one above the other. There was no way I would dare to take any photos here, plus I first had to wait my turn due to a traffic light positioned along the road.

Beginning of the ascent along the road from Vassbygdevatnet Lake

Soon enough, though, I came across a pull-off area, so I stopped and got out of the car. The view of the lake and its surroundings was breathtaking.

Vassbygdevatnet Lake

As I ascended, snow began to appear, but it didn't bother me at all since the road was perfectly cleared.

Highlands of western Norway

Throughout this entire day, I couldn’t stop feeling immense gratitude to the circumstances or higher powers – however one sees it – that the weather was what it was. This was particularly important as I passed by lakes or fjords or stopped to photograph their still waters reflecting grassy slopes with charming sunlit houses and seemingly endless blue skies. However, it was perhaps even more significant when I drove across high mountains and plateaus (on a couple of occasions) completely covered in snow.

One level of the "problem" would be that my photos would be filled with greyness and would be less spectacular, although clouds can sometimes add drama. A much greater and real issue would have arisen if it had been foggy or rainy, or if there had been snow at high altitudes, making the roads slippery. I would have had to drive much more slowly and who knows when I would have reached my planned destination for the day.

But on a sunny and dry day like this, I could relax and enjoy.

Highlands of western Norway

Here at this altitude, the road passed through several tunnels. The one that particularly caught my interest was the Geiterygg Tunnel.

The tunnel is 3,290 meters long and situated at an average height of about 1,100 meters above sea level. What I found fascinating about it is that it features so-called "cold gates." These are automatic gates placed at one or both ends of a tunnel in order to protect it from cold and snowdrifts during winter, which could lead to ice formation on the tunnel walls and potentially cause rock falls. Except during summer, when temperatures are higher, the gates automatically open when a vehicle approaches, while they remain closed otherwise. Here’s what it looks like. I was quite surprised at first, as I wasn’t aware of such things, but in the end, it was quite fascinating and I managed to partially capture the whole experience in video format.

I was driving here over the Hallingskarv Plateau, which is part of the Hallingskarvet National Park.

Hallingskarv plateau

In many places, I saw individual houses that looked quite snow-covered and even deserted. On the other hand, I noticed parked cars along the road, not necessarily near these houses. My conclusion was that some Norwegians had come here for Nordic skiing. It would indeed be a pity to miss out on such a beautiful day.

Hallingskarv plateau, a detail

Hallingskarv plateau

At some point, I did begin descending from the heights, so there was less snow, but there were more houses and human settlements.

Landscapes after the Hallingskarv plateau

I even photographed a wooden church, but since I didn’t have any information about it, I didn’t stop to explore.

Landscapes after the Hallingskarv plateau

The road also passed by a lake that wasn't covered in ice.

Landscapes after the Hallingskarv plateau

At one point, I also passed by the well-known winter sports centre of Geilo, but I hadn’t planned to make a stop there. I had a very ambitious plan for the day, so I was aware that it wasn't wise to stray from my route, especially not to visit a place I knew nothing about. The fact that it’s significant for winter sports didn’t matter to me – I was just passing through.

Here is a map showing where I travelled on this day:

After Geilo, the road started climbing again, reaching an altitude of around 1,100 m above sea level, but this stretch wasn’t very long – only about 30-40 km.

Landscapes after Geilo

And as I started descending from the plateau, the snow began to disappear again. About 20 km farther, I reached the town of Uvdal. Here, I arrived at the Numedal Valley, which was significant to me because I wanted to visit two historic wooden churches.

I found it interesting that in the town of Uvdal, the road took me past a large wooden church that wasn’t in my itinerary, but I knew I would pass by it on the way back, so I decided to stop there later.

The plan was to visit a church located a little farther from Uvdal first, with the idea of returning later to see the other old wooden church in town and then continue a bit further along the same route before heading to my final destination for the day.

So, first, I went to the Nore Stave Church, which is situated on the shore of a lake. In fact, a river runs through the valley, widening at several points to form lakes. The wooden church in Nore is built next to, formally speaking, two connected lakes (narrow and long). To reach the church, you need to cross a bridge over the riverbed that connects these two lakes.

Nore Stave Church

The day before, I had read online that the church was already open for the season every day until 6 PM. I arrived well within time, but there was no one around. The gate was unlocked (there was a metal lever to close it) and I even tried the door. No, it wasn’t open.

Nore Stave Church, a detail

Well, I figured it wasn’t a big deal, so I walked around the church and peered through the windows, even managing to take some photos of the interior.

Nore Stave Church

Research has shown that the Nore Stave Church was built after 1167. The church features a Greek cross plan with intersecting nave arms, which, as I’ve read, was a unique design solution in Western Europe during the Middle Ages.

It is also adorned with wooden carvings and other details on the gable of the side nave, while the shingle roof is clearly visible.

Nore Stave Church, a detail

Nore Stave Church

The interior is also beautifully decorated, primarily with murals, which I could see by peering through a window.

Nore Stave Church, a detail

The church has been remodelled several times, but most of the parts are original.

I’m not sure about the current situation, but I found it interesting to read that the owner of the church at the end of the 19th century was an art history professor who then donated the church to the Society for the Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments.

Since the church wasn’t open, I just walked around it, took some more photos and then drove back to the town of Uvdal.

Nore Stave Church

Along the way, I had to make a short stop to photograph the beautiful Norefjorden Lake. I found it interesting that it was still completely covered in ice, while the surface of Frygnefjorden Lake, which it connects to and where the church is located, was completely blue.

Norefjorden Lake

Less than 20 km farther, I reached my next destination, which was the Uvdal Stave Church.

Norway 2024, part 12 (Bergen, Voss)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 24 Jul 2026 13:54:00 GMT

Walking around Bergen, I finally reached Bryggen, more precisely the part that stretches along the northern side of Vågen Bay.

Bryggen

I had previously mentioned Bryggen a little, but now I'll do so in a more consolidated manner. It is an old wharf in Bergen. The city was a very important part of the Hanseatic League, a trading empire with roots in Germany. Considering that the houses here were traditionally made of wood, it's no surprise that many buildings have been lost to fires over time, but many of them, built in accordance with local traditions and vernacular building methods, have survived to this day. Today, 62 buildings from the old days can be seen in Bryggen and this historic dockside quarter is one of the cultural properties listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Of the four Hanseatic trading posts abroad, the one in Bergen is the only one that has survived.

Bryggen is essentially a small, purpose-built settlement that served as a true colony for German traders. The buildings are multi-storied, while narrow passageways resembling streets run between them. Everything is made of wood, except for a few warehouses in the back that are made of stone. These warehouses stored goods and also had cooking facilities to minimise the risk of fire.

What can be seen today reflects the appearance Bryggen was given after the fire of 1702.

Bryggen, a detail

Today, some of these buildings house modern shops, galleries or cafés.

Bryggen, a detail

I wandered through the district without any particular order or purpose, simply capturing details that caught my eye.

Bryggen, a detail

Then I got back to the quay and enjoyed the beauty created by the fronts of the buildings belonging to Bryggen, which were illuminated by the sun, highlighting the colours of the façades even more. Although the following photos show essentially the same thing, I like each one, so here they are...

Bryggen

In the previous photo, a little farther away, to the left, you can also see the Rosenkrantz Tower (Rosenkrantztårnet) from the second half of the 16th century. The tower is considered the most important Renaissance monument in Norway and was built to encompass an old keep from the late 13th century and the outwork from the early 16th century. According to what I’ve read, the tower offers a beautiful view of Bergen and Bryggen, but I didn’t go there.

As for me, I took a stroll along the quay and then sat in a café to enjoy not only a coffee, but also the sunny day. I wasn’t the only one with this idea.

Bergen, a detail

I found a cosy spot and ordered the coffee, which I leisurely sipped while enjoying the moment. But then I noticed that most people around me were drinking beer. I thought, "Why not?" So I ordered a beer as well and they asked if I wanted a small or a large. Hmm! What a strange question – of course I wanted a large one. And yet, in the end, I was quite surprised when I realised that a large beer at this place meant 0.75 l of this delightful liquid. What else could I do but start drinking it?

During a break, liquids can come up in different forms

I managed to do that, of course, but in the meantime, I wanted to capture the moment as well. So, I took a selfie showing that the hand holding the glass was in a glove – not because of the beer's temperature, but because of the outside air temperature. Yes, that day in Bergen, the sun was shining brightly, but it was cold.

What is colder in Bergen: the beer or the air?

After the quite pleasant and unusually long break for me, I finally got moving, but I didn’t go far – just to the starting station of the Fløibanen funicular.

Bergen, a detail

Lower Fløibanen station

I may have skipped the beautiful view of the city from the tower, but I decided to make up for it by taking the funicular to the upper station on Mount Fløyen, which is 320 m above sea level.

The funicular opened in 1918 and it essentially operates with two cars that pass each other in the middle of the 844-metre-long track. Over time, these cars have been replaced and modernised, but the system remains the same.

Lower Fløibanen station

When I arrived at the upper station of the funicular, I immediately looked for a spot where I could both enjoy the view of Bergen and take some photos. It wasn’t difficult at all.

View at Bergen

I also took photos of Vågen Bay and some islands further west towards the sea.

View at Bergen

View at the surroundings of Bergen

Then I took a stroll and enjoyed the truly wonderful day. On Fløyen hill, there are plenty of hiking trails, as well as a playground for children and some cafés. There were also a few goats around.

On Fløyen hill

I only took a short walk here and even sat on a bench where I could enjoy the beautiful view of Bergen and the sunny weather. I also felt like taking a photo of myself there.

On Fløyen hill

A little later, I went back to the upper station and soon found myself in a funicular car again, but this time heading down.

In the Fløibanen funicular’s car

It was already late afternoon and although the day in the north of Europe was long (in late April, the sun in Bergen sets after 9 PM) I still wanted to walk some more before heading to dinner. So I did. Although I couldn’t resist photographing Bryggen again, this time I expanded the circle of my exploration a bit.

Bergen

Bergen, a detail

In the photo below, you can also see the route of the Fløibanen funicular as it makes its way to the top of the hill above the city.

Bergen, a detail

And then I returned to Vågen Bay and finally sat down for dinner at a restaurant. It was quite sufficient and definitely very tasty.

Bergen, a detail

By the time I finished dinner, the sun had already set, but it was still not completely dark. However, although I took a few photos and found the details of this very beautiful city intriguing and attractive, I didn’t linger long on the streets of Bergen. The next day, I would continue my tour of Norway by car, so it was important for me to get a good and sufficient rest.

Bergen, a detail

The next day was exceptionally beautiful, but also quite exhausting. What made it most memorable was the incredible luck I had. The day was perfect – blue sky, mostly free of clouds, and the sun shining brightly through the clear air characteristic of Norway. The country benefits from its coastal location, extensive forests (over 33% of Norway's land area is covered by forests) and a population that does not litter, plus they are wealthy enough to advocate and practice a "green agenda."

(As a side note: Without diminishing the natural features, the sea and forests, or the cleanliness of the people themselves, it wouldn’t surprise me if Norway, like many wealthy countries, exports its waste to be recycled in less affluent countries (often in Southeast Asia, meaning it’s transported halfway around the world) that need the money and are willing to accept anything. This makes the "green agenda" of wealthy countries somewhat hypocritical, but such practices are common among entities with money – they can get away with it.)

In any case, I left Bergen relatively early and since it was a Sunday, I thought there wouldn’t be much traffic on the road. I was mistaken in that regard, but it wasn’t dramatic. There were simply more vehicles than in the previous days. Perhaps I was also travelling on more popular routes.

Here is a map showing where I travelled on this day:

I didn’t head directly to my final destination for the day, as I had planned the trip and route to make the most of travelling by car and to explore the country as much as possible, even if it meant a lot of driving. On this day, I spent 11 hours driving from the starting point to the final destination. Considering the number of stops I made in order to take photos, this is not too surprising, but it was all worth it. It’s also important to note that in late April, the sun sets after 9 PM at these latitudes, so the day was long enough.

First, I headed towards Gudvangen, which is located at the end of the Nærøyfjord, a narrow and long arm of the Sognefjord that I had travelled along the previous day.

After leaving Bergen and navigating through some initial traffic where I had to focus closely on the road and the conditions there, the route began to lead me through incredibly beautiful landscapes with less traffic. This allowed me to stop at a pull-off on the opposite side of the road and walk over to the guardrail to capture what I found appealing.

On the road from Bergen to Gudvangen

I must admit that I wished Norwegians had more designated parking areas where one could stop briefly and enjoy the stunning views. If that were the case, it would have taken me at least 2 days to cover the same route. The distance from Bergen to Gudvangen is nearly 150 km, and it takes almost two and a half hours to drive that distance.

Fortunately, there were occasional pull-offs along the road after all, often because of local bus stops, which were quite sufficient for taking photos.

On the road from Bergen to Gudvangen

So I arrived at the lake called Seimsvatnet, which is 2.7 km long, while the scenery there was absolutely magnificent. When it came to selecting photos to accompany this story of mine, I faced a huge dilemma. All the photos looked stunning and I felt they all deserved to be shared with others. Nevertheless, I had to make a more selective choice.

Lake Seimsvatnet

And then I moved from the designated parking area a hundred metres further to a bus stop, where I had to get out of the car again to take photos because I was completely captivated by the beauty.

Lake Seimsvatnet

At this spot, I also had the “bonus” of seeing a beautiful white wagtail (Motacilla alba).

White wagtail

Then I drove another 4 km and (once again) had to stop. This time, it was near Lake Vangsvatnet. All the lakes I’ve mentioned are located in the municipality of Voss, while this particular lake is situated roughly in the centre of the municipality. The lakes are connected by the Voso River flowing westwards into a fjord. Lake Vangsvatnet covers an area of nearly 8 sq. km.

Lake Vangsvatnet

Here, I also managed to spot and photograph two types of birds. One was the Eurasian oystercatcher (Haematopus ostralegus) and the other was the great tit (Parus major).

Eurasian oystercatcher

Great tit

By the way, my photos, while showcasing incredibly beautiful landscapes, only reflect a small part of the natural splendour that is abundant in Norway and that I could see in passing.

After this stop, I continued towards Gudvangen and passed by a waterfall called Tvindefossen. The waterfall is 116 m high and is renowned for its beauty. Since the late 20th century, it has gained even more fame for its reputed properties – the story goes that the water from the Kroelvi stream, which creates the waterfall, is excellent for rejuvenation and enhancing sexual potency. As a result, over 200,000 people from all over the world visit the waterfall annually to collect its water. This is much better than killing rhinos, while the result is probably the same.

Tvindefossen

Soon I arrived at Lake Oppheimsvatnet, as well. Although the lake is not very high – at about 360 m above sea level – it still had ice left over from the previous winter.

Lake Oppheimsvatnet

Then the road led me between high mountains and I soon arrived in Gudvangen. I’ll share more about that in the next sequel of my story about the journey through Norway in April 2024.

Road to Gudvangen

Norway 2024, part 11 (Bergen, Mostraumen, Mo)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 17 Jul 2026 14:59:00 GMT

The previous evening, I had booked a boat tour for this day, so I had a relaxed breakfast without rushing. I stayed in a very good hotel in the centre of Bergen, but when I made the reservation two months earlier, I got quite a good rate because the room I was assigned didn’t have any view – the windows faced a narrow and unimaginative atrium, meaning they looked out at a wall just a few metres away. However, the room reservation included breakfast, so I took full advantage of that and enjoyed my first meal of the day.

Part of the breakfast in Bergen

Since my hotel was very close to the port, I easily made my way there, as that’s where the boat was departing from. What amazed me when I stepped out of the hotel was the bright, sunny sky, which of course I couldn’t see from my room. It was perfect for what I had planned – a trip to one of Norway’s many fjords. However, since it was still relatively early, the streets of Bergen were quite empty.

Bergen, a detail

On the other hand, despite the blue sky with a few clouds, a rather strong wind was blowing, which, among other things, marked the day. While waiting to board the excursion boat, I tried to shield myself from the strong wind by standing next to the wall of a nearby building.

Excursion boat in Bergen

At first glance, this excursion seemed to tour a single fjord, but technically speaking, it involves three fjords in a row – Osterfjord, Romarheimsfjord and Mofjord. Also technically speaking, the latter, Mofjord, was originally a lake called Movatnet, which was connected to Romarheimsfjord by a small, shallow stream. Back then, boats were hauled overland to reach Movatnet. In 1743, flooding caused seawater to flow into the lake during high tide, while during low tide, the water flowed in the opposite direction.

Over time, the area was cleared, both naturally and through human intervention, and today large ships can navigate through it, though the channel connecting the fjords at this point is about 650 m long and only about 60 m wide. This area is called Mostraumen and, as I understood it, the houses visible there represent a kind of an open-air museum. The place looks absolutely perfect and day trips to these three fjords in a row are known as "Mostraumen tours" (or something similar).

At the beginning of the excursion, like the other passengers, I sat in a spacious cabin, but I soon went outside. It was both a great pleasure and a serious "challenge" – the temperature was still relatively low, but the wind was extremely strong, which not only cooled me down, but also frequently blew me around, and I had to be careful not to lose my cap.

Excursion by boat along the fjords near Bergen

I don’t have much to say about this part of the excursion: the boat was sailing, the weather was nice despite the wind, the scenery was varied but certainly extremely beautiful, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. That’s it. Now comes a series of photos illustrating all of this and at the end, there is a short video of the landscape I sailed through. The noise on the video comes from the wind, while the video concludes with the arrival at Mostraumen and the passage through the channel.

Fjords near Bergen

Reaching Mostraumen and passing through the channel is a unique experience. To start with, the positioning of the meadow where the houses are arranged, almost like a piece of art, on such a beautiful sunny day was absolutely perfect.

Mostraumen

For the large ship to pass through here, it had to slow down significantly, which provided ample time to capture some details.

Mostraumen

So, at this point, you enter from Romarheimsfjord into what was once a lake but is now Mofjord, which is about 7 km long and named after the settlement located at the end of the fjord.

Mostraumen

As we approached the settlement of Mo, I saw on the left-hand side the impressive Kvernhusfossen waterfall, which is about 120 meters high.

Kvernhusfossen waterfall is to the left, while the village of Mo is to the right

Kvernhusfossen waterfall

The excursion here involved only passing by the settlement of Mo, turning the boat around and returning to Bergen the same way. However, we first passed by another waterfall on the opposite side of the fjord and got quite close to it. This one is called Bergsåa Waterfall (Bergsåafossen).

Bergsåa Waterfall

Here I also made a short video.

We then headed towards the settlement of Mo, which we passed by with the boat. The scenery was so charming that I had to include a few photos and a short video clip here, too.

Mo village

From here, there is also a wonderful view of Mofjord and the surrounding mountains, including the Kvernhusfossen waterfall.

Mofjord

Now we headed back at full speed and that continued until we got to pass through the Mostraumen channel again, where we significantly slowed down.

Mofjord

And then the boat took us past vertical cliffs once more, this time within Romarheimsfjord, but still near Mostraumen. There is a waterfall here, although significantly smaller than the ones we had seen before. We passed so close that it felt like you could almost reach out and touch the rocks with your hand.

Cliffs and waterfall within the Romarheimsfjord

Romarheimsfjord

Since Romarheimsfjord is about 11 km long, the navigation through it was both sufficiently fast and long enough. With the position of the sun now making it better to stay on the boat's stern deck, the wind was also less intense.

Romarheimsfjord

During this return journey, I unexpectedly found myself immersed in the absolutely magical "Solveig's Song," a piece of incidental music composed by Edvard Grieg (1843-1907) in 1875 for the play Peer Gynt by Henrik Ibsen (1828-1906). This makes sense given that both Grieg and Ibsen were Norwegians, while Grieg was even born and died in Bergen. On the other hand, many years ago, I took solo singing lessons and even occasionally practiced singing this beautiful melody, though not very successfully.

In any case, I remembered this wonderful song and, while absorbing the beauty of the Norwegian fjords, I entertained myself by humming “la-la-la” to the melody. It wasn’t completely terrible, but it was significant that my rendition was somewhat lost to the wind due to the movement of the boat and the air. So, in the end, it was easier for everyone.

Here’s one of the beautiful versions you can find online: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TUhk00H86g performed by famous Norwegian soprano Sissel Kyrkjebø. I’m not ashamed to admit that it is much better to listen to her than to me.

In the meantime, the ship's captain, unaware of the marvels happening on his deck, brought us into the Osterfjord area, which is 27 km long.

Osterfjord

There, as at the beginning of the excursion, we passed under the Nordhordland Bridge again, which I had written about in the previous sequel of my travel stories from Norway.

Nordhordland Bridge

And here is a map showing where I travelled during my stay in Norway, also pointing out the locations mentioned in this part of the story.

In any case, this excursion I took today lasts several hours, while the return to Bergen was not only interesting because I could view the old part of the city from the boat and imagine how seafarers might have approached it in ancient times, but it also gave me the opportunity to have some time for additional activities around the city.

Getting close to Bergen

Getting back to the port in Bergen

In the previous sequel of my travelogue, I mentioned that the bay where the port is located, as well as the entire port, is called Vågen.

Getting back to the port in Bergen

The most impressive and beautiful part of Vågen was watching Bryggen, the old wharf in Bergen.

Getting back to the port in Bergen

The excursion boat docked on the opposite side of the harbour from Bryggen, which was perfect for me as it allowed me to take nice photos of this picturesque part of Bergen. I took advantage of this by capturing images both while I was still on the boat and even more extensively once I disembarked.

Bryggen

In the next photograph, you can see on the far right that one of the buildings is covered with huge fabric case or something. This is the Hanseatic Museum, which was closed for renovations during my visit, but this is only temporary. The museum building, along with the entire Bryggen district, is a cultural heritage site listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Bryggen

Here is also a video showing all of this while in motion:

When I finally managed to tear myself away from the stunning view of Bryggen, I set off for a walk around Bergen’s city centre. I didn’t focus too much on what each building was for; I simply enjoyed strolling through the city. Although the wind was still strong and the temperature was not high, the sun mostly managed to break through the clouds and illuminate this part of Norway, allowing me to truly enjoy the beauty of the urban details.

Speaking of the weather, I must mention that I had incredible luck during my stay in Norway, especially regarding the weather itself. While I believe that everything I visited and saw would look exceptionally magical if covered in snow, that’s only under the condition that it is bathed in sunlight, which is rarely the case if it is completely overcast. The previous day, I had enjoyed a drive around Sognefjord, but the fact remained that for most of the day, the sky was mostly covered with clouds, while the mountain peaks were shrouded in mist or low clouds.

On this day, by chance, I happened to see on the TV in the hotel restaurant during breakfast that almost all of Europe, except for Spain and the southern part of Norway, was under clouds. Yes, I really did have good luck with the weather.

Bergen, a detail

Then I happened to come across a food stall offering various types of sausages and realised that I was actually a bit hungry. As soon as I saw what was on offer, I didn't hesitate for a moment. Among other things, there were reindeer sausages! I had to try them.

Bergen, a detail

The sausage was incredibly delicious. Since it was game meat, it was naturally lean, which I really liked. Even the fact that they topped the sausage with some sort of jam, in addition to mustard and crispy-fried onions, which is quite common in Scandinavia but absolutely unthinkable and even unacceptable in Serbia, didn’t bother me at all. Not only because I’ve expanded my culinary horizons over time, but also because it was genuinely a good combination (especially when you set aside any prejudice).

Light lunch in Bergen

After this delightful, tasty, but light lunch, I continued my walk around Bergen, this time along Øvregaten Street in order to approach Bryggen from the "upper" side.

Bergen, a detail

Øvregaten Street was a well-known area in the past as it housed the city's main market, where craftsmen had their shops. There were cobblers, goldsmiths, furriers, tailors, woodcarvers and those who made items from reindeer and elk antlers. Today, it is a charming street with picturesque houses, but it still has many shops on the ground floor of these buildings, although now they offer quite different goods.

Bergen, a detail

This street is located on an elevated area above the back part of Bryggen, so I found it interesting to see this significant part of Bergen from this side as well.

Bryggen, a detail

At the end of this street, within Bryggen, is Schøtstuene, one of the communal buildings that was specifically used in the past and today is part of the Hanseatic Museum. I don't know how, but I didn’t capture that part of Bryggen which is recognisable by the wall that encloses it from the upper side. However, this building is important because it was used for cooking in the past, which is a significant fact.

Since all the buildings in Bryggen were made of wood, the use of fire was strictly prohibited in them. People working in Bryggen still needed to eat and occasionally warm up. This building, Schøtstuene, was intended precisely for such purposes, and cooking for the workers was done there.

The danger of fire was always significant, while in 1955, several houses from the Hanseatic period burned to the ground. Archaeologists took advantage of this unfortunate circumstance, so excavations and research began, leading to the discovery of remains from the oldest settlement in the Bergen area from the 12th century. Various artefacts were also found, providing insights into life at that time. Most of these artefacts are now displayed in the modern Bryggens Museum, which was built next to the archaeological site. The following photograph shows the site and the rear of the museum, followed by a photograph of the museum’s front façade.

Bryggen, a detail

The Bryggens Museum

Across from the rear of the museum, there is a small park that also houses St. Mary’s Church.

St Mary’s Church

It is believed that the construction of the church began in the first half of the 12th century and was completed in 1180. Of course, over time, the church has burned several times and required restoration and reconstruction, but it remains the oldest building in Bergen.

St Mary’s Church

And now I could descend to the shore of Vågen Bay and explore the centre of medieval Bergen from that side.

Norway 2024, part 10 (Kvamsøy, Lavik, Ostereidet, Bergen)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 10 Jul 2026 17:28:00 GMT

About a dozen kilometres past the town of Balestrand, I noticed a sign suggesting a place to take a break. Since I wasn’t driving fast, I easily managed to pull off the road into a widening that resembled a spacious parking area with a green space in the middle. However, apart from that, there was nothing else and, of course, no one else was there either. Nonetheless, I got out of the car and, as this place was almost on the fjord’s edge, I took a walk to look around since I had noticed some interesting details.

To start with, I passed by what seemed to be a storage area for timber, which certainly wasn’t something that would catch my eye. But, as it turned out, I had stopped in a very good spot because from the concrete platform by the water, there was a nice view of the small island Kvamsøy. So, I had, quite by chance, stopped here and, as it turned out, it made sense.

View at the islet of Kvamsøy

Later, I read that this place is considered exceptionally beautiful and that the widening which serves as a parking area for cars and campers was created with serious intent, rather than being a random extension that happens to be part of a timber storage area. Some details indeed looked very picturesque.

View at parts of Sognefjord and Kvamsøy islet

On the island, I also saw and photographed a small church, while later I read that the island is considered the smallest island in the world that has its own church. The Kvamsøy Church was built at the end of the 13th century and is one of the oldest stone churches in the Sogn og Fjordane region that I was passing through.

Kvamsøy Church

In addition to this, Kvamsøy is also considered one of the best natural harbours within the Sognefjord, while it also has some historical significance related to a 12th-century king who landed here with his fleet. It’s possible that this occurred right at the spot I photographed, which certainly looks idyllic.

Sognefjord coast opposite Kvamsøy

I continued driving and soon passed by the church in the village of Sæle (Sæle Church) from 1903. This church was built to replace the one from the island of Kvamsøy.

New church by the Sognefjord

During another brief stop by the road, I was also able to see and photograph the impressive Sognefjord and its southern shore.

Sognefjord

As for the road in this area, although it followed the fjord's coastline, it was often lined with trees. There are many photographs online that show these landscapes covered in beautiful green vegetation, usually taken on sunny days with vibrant colours. The situation was quite different during my visit in April 2024. At that time, Norway was still experiencing early spring, while the deciduous trees were just beginning to get their new leaves. On the other hand, in terms of the weather, this was the worst day of the week I spent in the north of Europe, so I think I was quite fortunate.

Sognefjord’s north coast in early spring

Occasionally, drops of rain fell, but it wasn't anything dramatic. At one point, the road began to wind around a narrow branch of the main fjord that extends into the land like a finger (though only about 3 km in length).

Sognefjord’s north coast in early spring

The road again followed the coastline at the end of that branch, creating a large curve, but the view was interesting once more.

Sognefjord’s north coast in early spring

On the other side of the road in this area, there were some houses and even though the clouds had significantly lowered, the fresh green colour of the young grass and some of those houses brought colour to this beautiful region.

Human presence on the north coast of Sognefjord

Several hundred metres past this curve, the road leads to the Høyanger Tunnel. It was just one of the many tunnels I drove through that day, but what a tunnel this was – 7,543 m long. When it opened in 1982, it was the longest tunnel in Norway, though it has since lost that title. Besides its length, I was fascinated by the fact that during my drive through the tunnel, I only saw 4-5 cars (in both directions).

After exiting the tunnel, just a couple of kilometres farther, you pass through the town of Høyanger, which the tunnel is named after.

Now, I had less than 50 km to go to the next ferry that would take me across to the southern side of the Sognefjord. Along the way, I stopped at a few places where it was convenient and seemed interesting.

For example, at the Nordeide ferry dock. The ferries operating from this dock were not suitable for my plans, but I stopped there anyway because there was a large parking area and everything was practically right next to the main road. When I got out of the car, I could peacefully take more photos of the details related to the Sognefjord.

Nordeide ferry dock

Sognefjord

Or when the road started to climb a bit after the town of Vadheim, which is located at the end of a smaller fjord that is a branch of the larger Sognefjord.

Vadheim

Since it was occasionally drizzling by now, I didn’t linger much along the way and drove straight to the Lavik ferry dock. I had to wait a bit, but soon both my car and I were comfortably settled on the ferry. Once again, I was able to walk around the ferry and find good spots from which to photograph the surroundings.

Leaving the north shore of the Sognefjord

Crossing the Sognefjord by ferry

South shore of the Sognefjord

Here's what a snippet of that experience looked like, captured on video.

When I disembarked on the southern shore of the Sognefjord, I continued southwards since my final destination for the day was the city of Bergen. The road occasionally climbed up the mountains, providing views of some places and bays from above. As this is a very mountainous region, there were also waterfalls created by the melting snow.

On the road to Bergen

It had already rained earlier while I was driving along the northern shore of the Sognefjord and even while crossing it by ferry. Now, however, it was occasionally quite heavy and at higher elevations, it had turned into sleet.

On the road to Bergen

Occasionally, the rain did stop and it made sense then to pull over, get out of the car and capture some details of the area I was travelling through.

On the road to Bergen

And then, near the town of Ostereidet, I finally came across a roadside restaurant where I could enjoy a nice coffee and take a pleasant rest.

On the road to Bergen

After this break, I took a short walk around the area near the restaurant, took a few photographs and then returned to the car in order to continue on to Bergen.

On the road to Bergen

In this part of Norway, there is an incredible abundance of islands, islets, fjords and lakes. However, up until about 20 kilometres before Bergen, the road manages to stay on land and winds its way across it. Then, you reach the obstacle in the shape of Salhusfjorden, where a ferry line used to be necessary. However, in 1994, the Nordhordland Bridge was opened and that simplified everything.

Nordhordland Bridge

It is the second-longest bridge in Norway and it constitutes a combination of a cable-stayed bridge and a pontoon bridge. It measures 1,614 m in length, it is 99 m high and its longest span is 172 m.

Nordhordland Bridge

As for Bergen, I had reserved a room at a good hotel in the city centre, but the problem was that they didn’t have parking for hotel guests. I still thought it was a better option than choosing a hotel on the outskirts of the city that might offer parking, since this would complicate my stay in the city. It is nice to be in the centre of Bergen, especially when you’re only here for a day and a half.

So, following the hotel's advice, I drove to a nearby public parking area, left my car there and then walked to the hotel, which was only some hundred metres away.

Bergen, a detail

Once at the hotel, I quickly completed all the formalities, left my things in the room and headed out relatively fast. I knew I would have daylight for at least a few more hours, but it was already around 7 PM, so I wanted to take a stroll around Bergen and go out for dinner.

Bergen, a detail

Bergen is a city on the western coast of Norway, sometimes referred to as the "wooden city" due to its old wooden houses. It is the second-largest city in the country, right after Oslo, and it was even the capital of Norway until 1299, when the honour was transferred to Oslo.

Bergen, a detail

During the Middle Ages, from the 13th to the 17th century, there was a trading alliance known as the Hanseatic League, or Hansa, which first established and then maintained a trade monopoly over the Baltic and North Seas. The Hanseatic League was founded in 1358 by several German cities and eventually expanded to include around 200 cities and settlements. They had a trading post, or Kontor, in Bergen, with their first office established as early as in 1360. The Hanseatic League primarily traded in timber, tar, leather, furs, grains, beeswax and honey, but their trade also included textiles and metal ores. Regarding the Bergen Kontor, one of the main exporting products from here was dried fish that could survive for several years in that form and still remain edible.

Bergen, a detail

The Bergen Kontor operated until 1754, while its central part was located in large wooden commercial buildings. This area is called Bryggen and it is situated on the eastern side of Vågen Bay, which includes the harbour. Of the entire Bergen Kontor, only its buildings, known as Bryggen, have survived to this day.

Bergen, a detail

Due to its historical significance, Bryggen is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Additionally, one of only two museums in the world dedicated to the history of the Hanseatic League is located here in Bergen.

Bergen, a detail

Since I planned to spend the entire next day in Bergen, my idea was to explore Bryggen more thoroughly then. For now, I was just leisurely strolling aimlessly around the city centre. My impressions were very positive.

Bergen, a detail

But by now, I was quite hungry because the day had been long, I had driven a lot and the food I had in the car as a "first aid" wasn’t quite enough to meet my daily needs. So, I decided to go to a restaurant right by the harbour, in the part of the city known as the Fish Market (Fisketorget). There are several fish shops linked to restaurants here and some of them have an indescribably fantastic selection of fish and seafood, all displayed in refrigerated cases. Here’s a photo and a video of it:

Fish and seafood offer at a restaurant in Bergen

I opted for much simpler fare, though it wasn’t bad at all, and most importantly, I ended up feeling quite comfortably full.

Part of the dinner in Bergen

I have to admit that I still don’t dare to experiment with shellfish in my culinary adventures. Instead, when I got back home, I decided to try making the famous Norwegian fish soup, Fiskesuppe. It turned out quite well, while I even made a special plate myself in an attempt to get as close to the original as possible.

NORWEGIAN FISH SOUP

350 g of fish fillet (white fish and salmon)
150 g of shrimps (or half a dozen)
1 clove of garlic
1 large carrot
2 smaller potatoes
150 g of leek (the white part)
1 l of fish stock
250 ml of milk
200 ml crème fraîche
2 tbsp butter
3 tbsp flour
seasoning from the recipe (according to your taste)

Cut the fish into cubes and the vegetables into thin sticks (this is mandatory) and set aside.

Melt butter in a pot, then add the chopped garlic. As soon as it starts to colour, add flour, stirring to avoid burning, and then pour in clear fish stock (broth) and mix well in order to prevent any lumps of flour.

Add the milk and vegetables, and cook for about 10-15 minutes. Then add the fish and cook for another 5 minutes. Season with salt and ground white pepper.

Take a few tablespoons of the soup and mix with the crème fraîche in order to create a smooth mixture. Return the mixture to the pot, then add the shrimps and cook for just 1-2 minutes.

Finally, sprinkle the soup with chopped chives, but you can also use dill.

Norwegian fish soup done in my way

By the way, while sitting in the restaurant waiting for my dinner, I took the opportunity to book an excursion for the next day. My plan was to leave the car parked for two nights and the day in between, which I would spend as a “pedestrian.”

Very satisfied with the entire day and the experience, I retired to my room early and fell asleep quickly.

Norway 2024, part 9 (Urnes, Solvorn, Hermansverk, Balestrand)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 03 Jul 2026 15:34:00 GMT

In the previous part of my travel story about the visit to Norway, I have already mentioned that I knew the Urnes Stave Church, or the Wooden Church in Urnes, would be closed when I arrived, but that did not discourage me in the slightest and so I arrived here. At no point did I regret it.

Urnes Stave Church

I reached the gate, but it was locked, so I could only walk a little around the wall that surrounds the courtyard, which, besides the church, also includes the local cemetery. The church is part of the village called Urnes, although sometimes referred to as Ornes.

Urnes Stave Church

In any case, the only thing I managed to do was use my camera to zoom in on the door and see some details.

Urnes Stave Church, a detail

Since I couldn’t get closer to the church, I started walking around the fenced courtyard.

Urnes Stave Church

Out of the 28 old wooden churches that have survived to this day, the Urnes Stave Church is considered one of the oldest, having been built around 1130.

Today, it is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Not only because it is one of the oldest stave churches, but also because its interior is exceptionally richly decorated. I absolutely knew that the church would be closed and that I wouldn’t be able to see the rich decoration to my great regret, but I still wanted to get to the church.

It appears quite simple at first glance, but a significant part of its value can also be seen from the outside – specifically on the northern wall, near the northern portal.

Urnes Stave Church, a detail

Owing to the excessively bright, though cloudy sky, the contrast between the external light and the dark colour of the wood was too great for my camera, so the photo is a bit washed out. However, this beautiful wood carving might be better seen in the following photographs.

Urnes Stave Church, a detail

The northern portal of the Urnes Stave Church, including the beautiful relief panels carved in wood, was created in 1170 and features stylised animal figures. As I’ve read, it depicts a lion fighting a serpent, which symbolically represents the struggle between Christ and Satan. I must admit that I find it hard to discern all the details, but that’s not as important. What is interesting is that the battle between the good and the evil also appears in Norse mythology, while the entire church represents an exceptionally skilful blend of Celtic art, Viking motifs and tradition, and Christian architecture.

Urnes Stave Church

I simply walked the entire way around the courtyard and then took photos as well. Some details are repeated, but while writing the story, it was hard for me to decide which photos to include and which to leave out.

Urnes Stave Church, a detail

Urnes Stave Church

Urnes Stave Church, a detail

The eastern and southern walls are extremely simple, which is perhaps why the shingle roof stands out more.

Urnes Stave Church

Now I descended to a dirt path and noticed an interesting wooden cabin whose purpose I don't know, but it intrigued me for two reasons. The first is that it is elevated above the ground and set on a stone foundation. I’ve mentioned before that this is necessary for wooden structures to last longer, preventing them from rotting due to contact with the earth.

Detail from the surroundings of the Urnes Stave Church

The second reason this smaller structure, which is definitely used for agricultural purposes, caught my interest is that its roof had started to bloom at the time of my visit. Literally.

Detail from the surroundings of the Urnes Stave Church

I looked back once more to view and photograph the Urnes Stave Church, then got into the car and drove down to the fjord shore where the ferry terminal is located.

Urnes Stave Church

I have already mentioned before that I received the ferry schedule from a very friendly guide at the Borgund Stave Church, so I arrived at the small terminal about 15-20 minutes before the scheduled departure. At that moment, my car was the only one in the boarding line, but that wasn’t a problem. A much bigger issue was that I needed to use toilet and there was absolutely no one at the terminal except for me. There was a small building and I walked around it, trying every door handle I saw, but nothing was open. And there was no one around to ask for help. To make matters worse, I couldn’t see a single ferry anywhere.

I wondered if this place even functioned. What if the ferries don’t run? Which way should I go next? Would I still be able to achieve what I had planned for the day?

I tried to find any information and noticed a few papers on a bulletin board. Everything was, quite logically, in Norwegian, which I don’t speak. On one paper, I managed to recognise words that looked like days of the week, so I thought that maybe ferries, even if they do run, don’t operate at the same times every day and that this changes from day to day.

And I still needed to use the toilet. More and more. No wonder, with water all around me. Ugh!!!

On the other side of the Lustrafjord, I looked longingly at Solvorn that was now my destination.

Lustrafjord and Solvorn

I tried to distract myself from thinking of my bladder that felt as if about to burst. I even considered going behind the small building at the terminal to take care of what everyone naturally does, but it felt awkward. If it had been in the forest, it might have been a different story, but here, where there was some semblance of civilisation, it didn’t seem right.

In my attempt to think about other things, I even took a few photographs.

Lustrafjord as seen from the pier in Urnes

Then, finally, seemingly out of nowhere, a small ferry appeared and a few more vehicles also arrived (I thought it was a good thing I hadn’t gone behind that building to take care of things). There were a few formalities to handle for positioning the vehicles (boarding was done in reverse), but I eventually made it to the toilet on the ferry, which was a huge relief.

Of course, it was also a great relief not to have to spend an hour and a half driving around the Lustrafjord, but at that particular moment, the priority for relief was definitely my aching bladder.

Once I took care of that, and it was done in a flash, I was able to go up to the passageway near the captain’s cabin to take photos of the surroundings. I first used the video camera while we were just leaving the dock and later switched to taking photographs.

View at the village of Urnes

View at the village of Urnes and the Urnes Stave Church

Here, I was crossing the Lustrafjord, which is a branch of the Sognefjord, the largest and most famous fjord in Norway. I should also mention that this was the only ferry where I had to pay for the ticket personally and directly. On all the other ferries, I boarded as if I owned them – no one asked me anything, I just drove onto them and, when we arrived, I drove off without anyone questioning me. Of course, there should be no doubt – I paid for all those ferry crossings, but in Norway, in the 21st century, it mostly happens automatically.

Lustrafjord

Selfie while crossing the Lustrafjord

Lustrafjord

As we approached the other shore, I could see some houses. Everything still looked quite deserted.

Lustrafjord

Then we reached the coastal part of Solvorn and although there were still no visible people, there were more houses, so it could be assumed that there is indeed some life here.

Solvorn

After driving off the ferry, I passed through the small town and then drove uphill to the main road that follows most of the northern coast of the Sognefjord, which is also known as the King of the Fjords in Norway, being the largest and deepest fjord in the country. It stretches from the ocean to the small town of Skjolden, which I mentioned in the previous part of the story, and is about 205 km long. On this trip, I travelled nearly its entire length, almost to the ocean, and took the ferry across it several times. Admittedly, a few times across its branches, but certainly once across the main fjord, i.e., the Sognefjord.

By the way, due to these fjords and the intricate coastline, Norway is the second country in the world by the length of its coastline, including its islands – 83,281 km. Only Canada has a longer coastline, at 202,080 km. These numbers become even more interesting when comparing territorial size. Canada is about 30 times larger than Norway, but only has 2.5 times its coastline length.

As for the countries in third and fourth places – Indonesia and Russia – Indonesia is six times larger than Norway but has 1.5 times less coastline. Russia has 2.2 times less coastline but is nearly 54 times larger than Norway.

But, going back to my journey through this beautiful, rugged Scandinavian country, here is the map showing where I travelled on this day:

To start with, I had to return to the town of Sogndalsfjøra. Before I arrived there, I took some more photos of the landscape and the bridge over the smaller arm of the main fjord that I had crossed a few hours earlier.

Smaller arm of the huge fjord and the bridge near the town of Sogndalsfjøra

From Sogndalsfjøra, I simply continued on to Hermansverk, occasionally stopping to take photos of the things I liked along the way. In fact, there were many more details that I found appealing, but I neither had enough safe places to stop nor enough time. I wasn’t in a particular rush; the day was long enough, but I couldn’t overdo it either.

On the way from Sogndalsfjøra to Hermansverk

Once I drove past the town of Hermansverk, I stopped at a parking area to take a few more photographs and then I continued for about 16 km to the Hella ferry dock.

On the way from Hermansverk to Hella ferry dock

When arriving at the Hella ferry dock, it’s crucial for the driver to be well-focused and know where they’re going and to do so in time in order to line up in the correct lane. Ferries from this dock go in two directions: one crosses the Sognefjord to Vangsnes, reaching the southern side of the main fjord. The other route goes to Dragsvik and continues to the town of Balestrand, all on the northern side of the main fjord. The reason for this second route is evident on the map – two long arms of the Sognefjord extend from the point where the ferries operate and it would be impractical to build a road there. It’s much simpler and significantly faster to travel by ferry, even if there’s a bit of waiting involved.

Waiting for the ferry at the Hella ferry dock

Namely, the distance between the two docks, Hella and Dragsvik, is less than 2 km, but I still found it interesting to film and take photos during that short crossing.

Between Hella and Dragsvik Ferry Docks

By the way, as I’ve mentioned earlier, I didn’t pay for these ferries on the spot, which greatly simplifies their use. You just wait your turn, the ferry staff directs you on where to go to board and the same happens when you reach your destination, where the crew provides instructions on who disembarks when. It’s all standard, but here it was further simplified by not having to buy tickets in person or figure out where to do so. On the other hand, you don’t speak a single word with anyone. Does this lead to complete alienation? Perhaps.

In any case, after disembarking at the Dragsvik dock, the road took me along a small arm of the main fjord, but the scenery was just as beautiful. Although there weren’t many vehicles on this part of the road, I fortunately came across a pull-off area where I could easily stop and take photos of what I wanted, such as the small village of Ese on the opposite shore.

View at the small arm of the main fjord and the village of Ese

Near the end of this small fjord, I saw a small seasonal "glacier" that descended like a river of ice towards the waters of the narrow bay, practically extending over the road I would soon travel. Of course, the road was cleared, so there were no issues.

Norwegian landscape in April 2024

When the road reaches the end of the fjord, it loops around it, following the shoreline, and this curve almost forms a horseshoe shape. The view of the fjord itself is also quite interesting.

End of the smallish fjord

Soon, I arrived in Balestrand and passed through it. I was actually ready to stop for a coffee, but I didn’t notice any places open along the road. I wondered if Norwegians even drink coffee while travelling. There were signs indicating that there were catering establishments in places like Balestrand, but I would have to venture into the settlement itself for that.

Although no settlement here was large, I considered that it would be a waste of time, so I stuck to the main road, which generally runs along the edge of the settlements. I had all the necessary food and drink in the car. The question of having coffee along the way was more of a ritual than a real necessity.

Moreover, the day was certainly long enough, the sun was due to set late, but with my frequent stops for photography and the uncertainty regarding the ferries, their schedules and travel times, I thought it was better to stick to the main road. And that’s what I did.

As for photography... Since there were very few vehicles on the road, I could occasionally stop quite safely even in my lane, though rarely. Sometimes I was reluctant to get out of the car, although this constant getting in and out had turned into serious physical exercise, which was probably good for me and my body. Still, I thought it was best not to overdo it even with the good things.

View at the Sognefjord

View at Balestrand

View at the Sognefjord and the empty road

Norway 2024, part 8 (Lærdalsøyri, Sognefjord, Skjolden, Urnes)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 26 Jun 2026 16:00:00 GMT

After an exceptionally fulfilling visit to the Borgund Stave Church, I continued my drive westwards since I had a hotel room reserved about 30 km away in Lærdalsøyri.

However, since the day was long, meaning the sun was setting later, I wasn’t in a rush. Moreover, before the trip, I discovered a few interesting places worth seeing along the way. Both are related to water.

I followed the valley of the Lærdalselva River, which, in one part, as it flows along a wider riverbed, encounters a narrow passage between larger rocks, almost resembling a small canyon. The result is a waterfall called Sjurhaugfossen. Admittedly, having seen it in person, I wouldn’t exactly call it a waterfall, but technically, the water does drop – about 10 metres in total.

The Lærdalselva river

Sjurhaugfossen

Not far from here, less than 2 km away, there is a parking area from which you can view a much more impressive waterfall. However, this parking area is not on the main road but is accessed via a detour. That was my plan. However, as it turned out, there was a barrier with clear signs indicating that traffic was not allowed on that detour road. I assume the road was either being repaired, or there was a landslide, or something similar. Well, if it’s prohibited and not possible, that’s fine. Although 2 km isn’t a huge distance, I didn’t even think about attempting to walk, so I just got back in my car and continued on the main road towards Lærdalsøyri.

However, a few kilometres down the main road, I came to an intersection and realised that this was where the detour road reconnected with the main road. Since there were no signs here, I turned onto the detour road, hoping to reach the waterfall from this side. However, I soon encountered another barrier, so I completely gave up.

I’m sorry I couldn’t see the waterfall known as Soknifossen or Galdanefossen. The second name comes from a nearby farm that operated from the 17th century until the mid-20th century, where you can still see a few houses from the early 19th century today. As for the waterfall, it consists of a series of high cascades as the local river falls down the side of the mountain from a height of about 400 metres.

The only thing I could do was to photograph the Lærdalselva River, along the riverbed of which runs the detour road, and then I returned to the main road and continued through the beautiful Norwegian landscapes.

The Lærdalselva river

On the road to Lærdalsøyri

Before I entered the town, I saw a couple of waterfalls. It was clear to me that in this whole region, and certainly throughout Norway, there are likely many waterfalls because the mountains are high, there is a lot of snow in winter and its melting in spring creates streams and small rivers, which in turn create waterfalls.

Waterfall near Lærdalsøyri

But not all the whitish and vertical features were waterfalls, at least not at the moment when I took the photograph, and certainly not the one visible in the previous picture with the tractor. Here, it’s almost certain that water did flow at some point, but when I passed by in mid-April 2024, this would-be waterfall was completely frozen.

Frozen “waterfall”

Soon, I arrived at the hotel where I had booked a room for the night. It was located at the end of the town, right on the edge of the fjord. This fjord is the Lærdalsfjord, a branch of the main fjord in this part of Norway, which is the Sognefjord. Moreover, the Sognefjord is actually the largest and most famous fjord in all of Norway and is also the longest fjord in the world that isn’t covered by ice (since two fjords larger than it are ice-covered).

Lærdalsfjord

The hotel I chose seemed like a sort of resort for families with children, as I saw playgrounds and similar amenities. It’s likely much more pleasant here in the summer, with many people around. However, at the time when I took a stroll along the fjord, there was practically no one else around except for me and a few seagulls.

Lærdalsfjord

The hotel was also somewhat "spread out" – there was a small central building, surrounded by pavilions and smaller rental cottages. I had planned to get something to eat, but I wasn’t very hungry, so I went from the pavilion where I was staying to the reception to inquire if they had food and what they offered. They offered me a full meal, but first, I wasn’t sure what it would be like since there was no one else in the small and modest restaurant, which seemed more like a dining room. Secondly, I wasn’t actually hungry enough for a full formal meal.

So, I decided to "pop" over to the supermarket in the centre of the village, which was still open. There, I bought some snacks and... beer. I knew it would be nice to have it when I returned to my room later.

For now, I took a short walk around the village, which felt like a ghost town.

Lærdalsøyri at the end of the day

Aside from the possibility that, culturally, Norwegians may not be accustomed to walking around the streets of smaller settlements in the early evening on weekdays, it is a fact that Norway has a relatively small population spread over a relatively large territory.

According to the data I found online in mid-2024, Norway, with a territory of 385,207 sq. km, has about 5.5 million inhabitants, which is slightly less than 15 people per sq. km.

In comparison, Serbia covers an area of 88,499 sq. km, making it four times smaller than Norway, but it has 1.1 million more residents, which amounts to about 85.7 people per sq. km.

By the way, Norway has only about 2% of arable land, while Serbia has about 30%.

But back to my short stay in Lærdalsøyri. On my way back to the hotel, I noticed a charming part of the settlement, so I stopped to take a picture. There were no people here either.

Lærdalsøyri, a detail

After a good night’s sleep, I woke up relatively early, got down to my parked car and drove off. The drive wasn’t far at all – just under 10 km from the hotel’s parking lot. There, I reached the end of the road where I had to wait a bit to board a ferry. This was just the first in a series of ferries I would use that day, all of which transported me across the Sognefjord, which, as I’ve mentioned, is the largest and most famous fjord in all of Norway.

Waiting to cross the Sognefjord

Sognefjord

The principle here was very simple: two ferries operate and while one crosses from the southern shore to the northern shore, the other one goes in the opposite direction.

Car ferries in Sognefjord

Car ferry in Sognefjord

Norway certainly has an extensive and well-developed road network, but given the country's topography, with its many high mountains and numerous islands and fjords, as well as its sparse population, there are certain "problems" or at least challenges in maintaining efficient and timely transportation. The solution to this issue is found in the continuous construction of new tunnels through these mountains and the intensive use of ferries to cross from one shore to another, whether it’s between the mainland and islands or across fjords. Of course, in the case of fjords, bridges are often built as well, but this is not always feasible, especially for large fjords like the Sognefjord.

During this first ferry crossing of the Sognefjord, both the starting and ending docks were outside of populated areas and when I crossed the fjord, I saw that the road leading from the ferry terminal quickly entered a tunnel after just a few hundred metres.

Tunnel on the north shore of Sognefjord

It was particularly important for me to know how the tickets were charged. Well, I was in highly developed Norway and the trend in the modern world is for everything to be automated, including ferry tolls, and road and tunnel tolls. Since I was driving a rental car, it was quite straightforward – the rental car company had my card number and they had already charged me some money "just in case." All the ferries (except one), as well as the roads and tunnels, have devices that capture the license plate number and everything is processed automatically so that the money is deducted from the account. I mean, except for the relatively short wait for the next ferry, everything went very efficiently.

So, after passing through the tunnel and arriving in Sogndalsfjøra, I turned right, heading north-northeast, with the intention of later following the innermost arm of the Sognefjord, known as the Lustrafjord.

The reason I chose this route was simple for me. I wanted to visit the Urnes Stave Church and it is quite remote. My original plan was to catch a ferry at Solvorn and cross to the other side of the Lustrafjord, but that friendly guide in Borgund pointed out that this particular ferry doesn’t run frequently as it serves very small communities and since it’s all quite remote, the church was still not open for the season.

The fact that I knew that the church wouldn’t be open didn’t discourage me at all. Although all the old wooden churches in Norway are beautiful in their own way, while the one in Borgund is the most picturesque from the outside, the one in Urnes is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Not only because it is one of the oldest stave churches, but also because its interior is exceptionally richly decorated. I absolutely knew that the church would be closed and that I wouldn’t be able to see its rich decoration, much to my regret, but I still wanted to visit it. Moreover, as I have mentioned several times in my travel writings, I really enjoy setting myself a “task” while in a foreign country. Here, the task was to reach the church by driving around the Lustrafjord and then return to the other side of the fjord by ferry. That friendly guide found the ferry schedule on his phone and I noted it down, so I knew my target time.

Here is a map showing the route I took on this day:

Actually, I didn’t even enter the town of Sogndalsfjøra; instead, I drove across a bridge and then immediately turned in the desired direction just after the bridge. A bit further on, I stopped to take a look at a smaller arm of the Sognefjord and the bridge that spans the narrow part of this fjord.

Smaller arm of a huge fjord and a bridge near the town of Sogndalsfjøra

First, I drove alongside that smaller arm of the Sognefjord and everything seemed exceptionally beautiful and impressive. I was looking for a safe place to stop quickly so I could take some photos. Fortunately, I encountered very few vehicles, so I didn't have any issues with stopping.

Smaller arm of a huge fjord; you can see the islet of Øyna on the right-hand side

When you reach the end of this smaller arm of the fjord, the road then curves inland and there, on the left side, I could see Lake Hafslovatnet, which, with an area of just under 6 sq. km, was completely covered in ice by mid-April 2024. I didn’t find a convenient parking spot here, so I used my newly developed skill of taking photos with my mobile phone without looking at the screen (since I was driving, albeit very slowly). Experience in photography certainly helps, although in the end, many of the shots ended up in the "recycle bin."

Lake Hafslovatnet

Soon after, the road emerged on the northern side of the Lustrafjord, so I continued driving around the fjord, occasionally stopping to photograph the beautiful landscapes I was passing through.

Lustrafjord

Lustrafjord, a detail

The sun was trying to break through the clouds and occasionally it seemed like it might succeed, but in the end, it turned out to be the worst day in terms of weather during the entire trip.

Lustrafjord

Lustrafjord, a detail

In some spots, I took photos from the same position with both my camera and mobile phone. Although the photographs might be similar, they are still interesting to me because they highlight certain nuances in the appearance of the landscapes.

Lustrafjord

And so, I reached the very end of the Lustrafjord, where the town of Skjolden is located. Even as I approached the town, it was clear that I would have to stop a few times. The views were superb!

Village Skjolden and the surroundings

And the view along the Lustrafjord was outstanding, too.

Lustrafjord

Village Skjolden and the surroundings

I came here based on the recommendation of that wonderful young man from Borgund who was my guide there. It wasn’t just about the local ferry schedule, although that was certainly important, but he also told me that the landscapes here were very beautiful and that you could drive around the fjord to reach the church on the other side. I am very grateful to that young man (whose name I don’t know) because this turned out to be another wonderful experience in Norway.

However, despite the beauty of the surroundings, I couldn’t linger here, as I needed to get to the Urnes Stave Church and catch one of the few ferries in that part of the fjord.

So, after taking the previous photos, I simply continued on. The road along the southern side of the Lustrafjord, from Skjolden to the Urnes Stave Church, was quite narrow and of a lower category compared to the road I had travelled on the northern side. As for the landscapes, they were no less impressive.

In the next photo, you can see both the landscape and the rental car, and more importantly, the road. My car is parked on a pullout beside the road, which is actually wider than the road designated for two-way traffic. Fortunately, on this approximately 30 km stretch of the road, I didn’t encounter anyone – no cars, no people – though I did pass by some houses and properties here and there. Yes, indeed... Norway is truly sparsely populated.

Lustrafjord, the south side

Where the road was especially narrow and there were many curves, I was very careful with my driving. I also made sure to pay attention when passing by any pullouts in case someone came from the opposite direction and I needed to reverse. Fortunately, I didn’t come across such situations. At one point, where everything was more visible, I dared to record a short video. This was definitely not an option in places where the road was very narrow or particularly winding.

Although I was very happy to be driving on this side of the fjord, I was also aware that I often had to drive quite slowly, all the while keeping the visit to the church and the ferry schedule in mind. In the end, everything went well and I reached the village of Ornes or Urnes. I drove up to the pullout in front of the gate where the famous Urnes Stave Church is located. First, I passed by the (seasonally closed) Visitor Centre and from that elevation I had a beautiful view of the Lustrafjord. I could also clearly see the village of Solvorn on the other side of the fjord, where I planned to arrive later by the ferry.

Lustrafjord, the south side

For now, I went to take a walk around the Urnes Stave Church.

Urnes Stave Church

Norway 2024, part 7 (Borgund)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 19 Jun 2026 16:05:00 GMT

The village of Borgund is located at an altitude of about 400 m, along the Lærdalselvi River, surrounded by high mountains. It is small and remote enough that, despite the beautiful nature surrounding it, it would not attract anyone other than its few residents and their friends and relatives. However, there is an exceptionally beautiful and significant wooden church in Borgund (Borgund Stave Church) and it is one of the must-visit places for anyone wanting to explore the interior of Norway.

Borgund Stave Church

Here is a map showing where this church is located and the routes I took during my trip to Norway, which included a couple of days in Oslo (on foot) and extensive travel through the southern parts of the country (by rented car).

I have already mentioned before the group of rare medieval wooden churches known as Stavkirke or Stavkyrke, which means "stave church" (where stave is the word for wooden supporting posts). These churches were built throughout Northern Europe during the Middle Ages, some of the oldest being around 800 years old, but they are now mostly found in Norway.

It is believed that these churches were constructed by groups of travelling and highly skilled craftsmen specialised in extremely challenging building projects. They clearly understood the possibilities and limitations of working with wood. The wood was worked with a small number of simple tools, but using the best materials available, which allowed these wooden churches to withstand centuries of weather – rain, snow, ice, wind and sun.

These churches were built over a period of about 200 years – primarily from the first half of the 12th century until 1349, when the infamous medieval plague, known as the Black Death, reached Norway. It is estimated that nearly two-thirds of the population in Norway died of the plague within two years, leading to the decline of the once-independent state, which then became a Danish province for the next 400 years. On the other hand, this also halted the tradition of building wooden churches.

Once, there were over 1,000 of these churches, but they gradually disappeared for various reasons. On the one hand, they were relatively small. A significant problem arose when the population began to grow, while by the mid-19th century, a law was enacted requiring that churches had to be large enough to accommodate at least 30% of the local population. On the other hand, they were also quite dark and very cold, so people were happy to build more modern churches that wouldn’t have these issues. Between 1851 and 1890, many old wooden churches were either demolished or sold. The large wooden logs were often repurposed for building other structures, but fortunately, some were preserved. One was even sold at auction, sent to Berlin, and eventually ended up in Karpacz, Poland – it is the Vang Stave Church!

Today, there are 28 of these preserved churches in Norway and we can thank the fact that they were usually located in villages that could not afford to build a new church. Most of them are quite simple in both construction and decoration, but some have highly elaborate forms and intricate decorations, usually in the form of wood carvings.

Moreover, most of these 28 churches have been reconstructed or extended, with only a small part of the original structure surviving, so they have somewhat lost their “true” stave church appearance. However, the Borgund Stave Church has survived the centuries in the best possible way, without any major alterations.

Borgund Stave Church

A significant issue when visiting these churches today is that they are only open "seasonally." As far as I understand, in order to preserve them, they are not heated and during the winter, they are too cold to be open. Therefore, they are closed for most of the year and only open to visitors during the summer. From early May, almost all of these churches are open, but in late April, when I was travelling, only few were open. One of them is the Borgund Stave Church. However, it also has its own "hours of operation," meaning it was open until 5 p.m., which was the main reason I was rushing after picking up the car at the Oslo airport. Fortunately, I managed to visit a significant site on my way and often stopped briefly to take photos of the landscapes I was passing through, so I didn’t feel like I missed anything and still arrived on time – though about 40 minutes before closing.

I left the car in the parking lot near the Visitor Centre, where tickets are purchased, and from there, I started off with a wonderful, courteous young man who was my guide. At that moment, I was the only visitor, which perhaps made the whole experience even more sublime.

I should mention that this young man told me many details, but I was so excited to have made it there that I ended up feeling like I remembered nothing. On the other hand, I don’t think extensive detailing on my part would be appropriate.

In any case, we first went to the wooden bell tower.

Bell tower at the Borgund Stave Church

The bell tower in question is a free-standing wooden structure built using the same technique as the church – based on the use of main supporting posts. The tower was most likely erected in the mid-13th century and is the only remaining free-standing wooden bell tower in Norway constructed with the staves. To protect the structure, wooden cladding was added to the exterior walls at the end of the 20th century. Naturally, I had to peek inside as well.

Bell tower at the Borgund Stave Church

As for the Borgund Stave Church, it is surrounded by a local cemetery, but irrespective of that, it is absolutely enchanting.

Borgund Stave Church

I observed and photographed it carefully and attentively, both with my camera and my mobile phone, and listened to my guide’s story about the church. In the end, I also felt like I hadn't seen or examined anything thoroughly enough. However, I think that’s just a trick of my mind. Based on the number of photos that follow, which are only a fraction of what I captured (and certainly saw), I believe I explored this beautiful church quite well.

Borgund Stave Church

The construction of the church began at the end of the 12th century, in 1180, when Christianity in Norway was still in its early stages. While churches across the rest of Europe were primarily built of stone (and there are some stone churches here as well), in the rural areas of Norway, wood was the main material. This is also evident in the houses where people lived or used on their farms.

Skilled builders erected these churches by incorporating some details taken from examples of stone buildings in Europe and combining them with their local traditions and motifs.

These traditional elements include, among other things, shingle roofs and dragon heads that "peek out" from the ends of the roof ridges.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Stave churches were usually built on sites where previous wooden churches had stood in which the load-bearing posts were set directly into the ground. When these posts began to rot, the entire church had to be demolished. To address this problem, people started constructing massive wooden frames elevated above the ground and placed on stone foundations. Such structures could last significantly longer. An example of this construction method can be clearly seen in a photograph of a house that I took at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History. (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/norway-2/). The Borgund Stave Church is also set on such a frame, though it isn’t clearly visible. In any case, the foundation is definitely made of stone, which also explains the longevity of this church and other wooden churches. Since the wood is not in direct contact with the ground, it does not rot.

Borgund Stave Church and the surroundings

Another detail explaining the longevity of the Borgund Stave Church is the fact that the exterior of the church is covered with a protective layer of tar obtained from pine trees, which is why the church has its dark colour.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Now I was ready to go inside, but first, it was important to pay attention to the entrance doors.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

The main door on the western side of the church features a richly decorated frame with floral motifs, serpents and creatures resembling dragons. The door itself also has interesting elements, such as decorative metal parts.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Regarding the frame, the guide had a flashlight with him and occasionally illuminated the parts he was discussing. In some of the following photographs, a skilled and trained eye can discern the aforementioned serpents and dragons. Even without delving into such details, it is clear that this is the work of master carvers of the highest calibre.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Then the time came to enter the church.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

However, let me first mention one more thing about the doors and their metal parts.

At the time when these churches were built, wood was abundant and there was certainly plenty of stone, as well. What was relatively rare was metal. I have read that the size of these decorative metal elements on the doors, such as the door knocker and keyhole cover, was an indicator of the financial status of those who commissioned the building.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

The interior of the church is, of course, entirely made of wood.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

When you look at the roof above the nave from inside the church, it resembles an upside-down Viking ship with ribs. This is not surprising. People here have long known how to build using wood, as evidenced by the surviving Viking ships. The Vikings were not accidentally able to sail across the Atlantic and their skill in constructing sturdy and reliable ships was naturally transferred to the construction of churches.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

This type of building is named stave church after the tall main posts that form the framework of the central space, connected by crossbeams. The semicircular arches are made from strong, naturally curved sections of wood between the trunk and the roots.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

In the previous image, in the lower row, behind the arches to the left and right of the centre, you can see some sort of "faces." These are decorations crafted at the top of each pilaster – one is anthropomorphic, while the other depicts the head of a cat.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Decorations at the tops can also be seen on the staves or the load-bearing wooden columns. This can be observed in the next photograph, which shows the side of the nave of the church.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

In the previous photograph, you can also see small openings that allowed light inside, but this wouldn’t be enough to notice many details. The top of the photograph is illuminated by the flashlight of my guide and there is some light coming from the window above the front doors on the right. The arch at the bottom of the image is lit by the fact that the side, southern door was open. Here is this southern door in the next photo:

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

And here is the front door seen from the inside, along with the window above it.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

The open doors certainly provided some light to see details like the church floor better. The floor of the medieval church was set on the wooden frame and much of it has survived. However, over time, a new floor was laid over it to protect the original one.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

In the past, it was common practice to bury the dead beneath the church floor, but this practice was banned at the beginning of the 19th century, partly due to the unpleasant odours emanating from it. However, I find it interesting that later I read that stillborn babies and infants who died before being baptised were still buried under the church floor, in small coffins, even in more recent times. The main reason for this was that it was not permitted for unbaptised individuals to be buried in the churchyard or local cemetery.

But to return to lighter topics – such as the beautifully illuminated elements with charming diagonal cross-bracing, known as Saint Andrew's Cross. By the way, this type of cross is named after Saint Andrew, who was crucified on an X-shaped cross. It is essentially a Greek cross rotated 45 degrees. It seems that light and darkness are inextricably intertwined in life.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Now I’ll take a closer look at the chancel area, specifically the apse, which can only be approached slightly.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

To start with, in front of the apse on the right-hand side, there is a pulpit from the period 1550-1570. It was installed here after Protestantism spread across Norway. During the time of Catholicism (before 1537), there was no pulpit.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Behind the pulpit is the pilaster with the cat head at the top. Here it is again:

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Now I’ve finally turned my attention to the altar area. At the front is the chancel and behind it is the semicircular apse.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

In the middle of the chancel, at the bottom, is a medieval stone altar with an altarpiece from 1654 depicting Christ’s crucifixion.

To the left of the altar, on the wall, is a cupboard from 1550-1570 used for storing liturgical items.

However, the most interesting detail visible in the previous photo is a small opening in the wall on the right-hand side. This is a type of small window, which is believed to have been installed so that people could pray even when the church was closed.

In the following photographs, the altar area is still visible, with a focus on some details. In the picture where the altar is illuminated by my guide’s flashlight, you can clearly see the prayer window on the right side and the door that provides direct access to the chancel.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

And one more detail from the interior of the church. It is believed that in the past there were also artistic church details here, such as painted sculptures and biblical scenes or scenes related to the life of Saint Olaf. Today, these are no longer present, except that my guide pointed out and illuminated a part of the wall where some painted ornaments can still be seen.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Now I made a circle around the church by following the external gallery that extends around the nave, but all of this constitutes a unified structure. It is some sort of ambulatory the function of which is to protect the outer walls of the church and the doorways, and it also provides shelter for people during inclement weather.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Besides the entrance on the western side, I have also mentioned the southern entrance, which is also decorated, though less elaborately than the main entrance.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Nevertheless, there is a particularly interesting detail here: the animal heads located at the bottom of the side posts that adorn the entrance.

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

I walked around the ambulatory once more, then entered the church and captured that experience in a video-format. Afterwards, I exited the church and admired it again, both in its entirety and in some of its details.

Borgund Stave Church

Borgund Stave Church, a detail

Then I climbed a bit up the hill to continue admiring this architectural masterpiece from a higher vantage point. I was absolutely thrilled and filled with satisfaction, which is evident in the selfies I took here.

Borgund Stave Church

Selfie with the Borgund Stave Church

I also took a panoramic photo that shows both the Borgund Stave Church and its bell tower. On the right-hand side of the image, you can also see a portion of the new church in Borgund, which was built in 1868. I didn't go there in the end.

Borgund Stave Church complex

As I finished with the photography, a few more visitors arrived, and my guide stayed with them. Fortunately, we had previously discussed my plans for the next day and I mentioned that I wanted to visit the Urnes Stave Church. Since this involved taking a ferry, he provided me with excellent information that proved very helpful the next day.

I then headed slowly to the Visitor Centre, where there is also a small, charming museum and where my car was parked.

Borgund Stave Church’s surroundings

And yet, I still frequently looked back and it was almost difficult for me to tear myself away from such beauty.

Borgund Stave Church

After visiting the museum, I got into the car and, feeling extremely pleased, continued my journey through Norway.

Norway 2024, part 6 (Eidsvoll, Krøderen Lake, Borgund)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 12 Jun 2026 17:24:00 GMT

After I had completed the formalities for renting a car at the airport in Oslo and the gentleman from the car rental company gave me a brief course on driving an automatic transmission vehicle, I was able to start and here is the map showing where I travelled.

However, I had a small problem finding my next destination on the GPS system in the car, but I managed to solve it and soon arrived in Eidsvoll, specifically at the Eidsvoll House or Eidsvollsbygningen.

Part of the settlement of Eidsvoll

In fact, it is a grand mansion of great historical importance to Norway, as the Norwegian Constitution was declared here in 1814.

Without wish to delve too deeply into Norwegian history, it is important to note that before the Napoleonic Wars, Norway was part of Denmark, with Copenhagen serving as the seat of the sovereign, while this union lasted for over 400 years. In 1813, Sweden attacked Denmark and Norway was ceded to Sweden. However, this was not acceptable to the Norwegians, so a meeting of the National Assembly was convened in Eidsvoll and on 17 May, 1814, a constitution was declared stipulating that Norway was an independent country, with the Danish heir, Christian Frederik, proclaimed as king. (By the way, 17 May is now celebrated as Norway's National Day.)

This displeased the great powers, while Sweden declared war. Negotiations ensued and everything was concluded on 4 November, 1814 when the Swedes accepted the Norwegian Constitution, thus granting Norway a high degree of independence, but the sovereign was still the Swedish king Charles XIII, who ruled Norway as Charles II.

Apart from this, the Eidsvoll Mansion or House was the private residence of the owner of the Eidsvoll Ironworks, Carsten Anker. Today, a monument to Anker stands on the grounds in front of Eidsvollsbygningen.

Eidsvoll Mansion complex and the monument to Anker

Carsten Anker (1747-1824) was a Norwegian businessman, civil servant and politician, and he was also one of the authors of the Norwegian Constitution.

Eidsvoll Mansion complex

When I arrived here, it wasn’t possible to enter the house directly and it seemed like some work was being done. On the other hand, I walked to what seemed to be the visitor centre with a café, where I learned that entry to the house was only possible through an organised tour, while the next one was in about an hour. I absolutely didn’t have time to stay that long. Still, I don’t regret it. I’m not particularly interested in constitutions and the places where they were adopted. There is a superficial interest, but the details aren’t that important to me.

On the other hand, I enjoyed walking around a part of the complex. Besides the grand mansion, the estate includes various buildings associated with the ironworks and the entire complex extends to the shore of what I would call a narrow river branch connected to Lake Hurdalsjøen.

Part of the settlement of Eidsvoll

The ironworks was founded in 1624 and it went through the hands of several more or less successful owners before Carsten Anker purchased it in 1794 and moved there to live in 1811. He was also not very successful and the ironworks went bankrupt in 1822.

So, I took a short walk around the area near the central building, which is the museum, to see a few more structures and then I returned to the parking lot and the car.

Eidsvoll Mansion complex, a detail

Now I had a stretch of about 300 km ahead of me, but I knew I would be stopping occasionally, primarily to photograph the landscapes I was passing through. I just didn’t know how often.

However, as it turned out, there were very few vehicles on the road, so I could develop the skill of quick mobile phone photography, hoping that the photos would turn out well. This was greatly helped by the fact that my right hand wasn’t needed for shifting gears. When driving my own car with a manual transmission, I usually keep both hands on the steering wheel, but occasionally, as needed, I move my right hand from the wheel to the gear shift. Now, I could use those short moments for taking photos.

I believe that my safety, as well as the safety of others, was not compromised because I only took photos either when I couldn’t see any other vehicles on the road or when I significantly slowed down while taking pictures. I remained focused on the road and driving and did not spend time composing or worrying about the shots. I only needed to press the white dot and snap a few shots, more or less by instinct. I could check the photos later and quite a few were deleted.

Although I think one should be extremely careful with this, I am, after all, a mature woman and not prone to excessive risks. I can report that throughout the entire journey there were no situations that were even remotely dangerous.

The first part of the journey took me towards Lake Krøderen. Although it was already mid-April, I was far enough north in Europe that snow was still visible in some places.

On the way to Krøderen Lake

Along the way, I also passed through a longer tunnel and began to realise that in Norway it is almost inevitable to encounter a lot of tunnels, considering its topography. Tunnels can be dull and do not provide an opportunity to enjoy the beautiful scenery, but they certainly shorten the journey.

So, at one point, the road reaches Lake Krøderen and then starts to run along the lake (if you're heading north, as I was).

Lake Krøderen

Lake Krøderen is about 41 km long and I drove along roughly half of the lake’s length. As seen in the previous photo, the lake’s surface, which is around 44 sq. km, was still mostly covered with ice. Although the sun occasionally appeared and illuminated the surroundings as the clouds dispersed, its rays were not yet strong enough to completely melt the ice on the lake's surface.

Road along Lake Krøderen

However, by mid-April, spring had indeed arrived in Norway and the ice was starting to melt. I took advantage of a parking area on the side of the road to stop and capture it all beautifully.

Parking lot beside Lake Krøderen

Lake Krøderen when the ice starts to thaw

Although it was still too early for the trees to be covered in green leaves and the sun wasn’t shining all the time due to intermittent clouds, I still enjoyed the drive immensely.

Road along Lake Krøderen

As I approached the northern end of the lake, I came across a roadside parking area, so I had to stop again; photographing from a moving car, no matter how slowly it was moving, wasn’t good enough.

Lake Krøderen

From here, the cracked ice wasn’t visible, but it was clear that the ice was melting along the edge of the lake, right by the shore. This created very beautiful sights.

Lake Krøderen

Even when I looked towards the opposite shore, the effect was interesting – large ice surface in the foreground and open water of the lake further out.

Lake Krøderen

I returned to the car, but just a kilometre further, near the village of Gulsvik, I found a large parking area with a gas station and a restaurant. I immediately planned to have lunch there, but first, I had to enjoy the beauty of the lake because the views were spectacular. The next few pictures show more or less the same scene: Lake Krøderen and the partially cloud-covered sky reflected in the lake’s waters. I was so captivated by the beauty that this is just a small selection from the numerous photos I took at this spot.

Lake Krøderen

When I finally managed to tear myself away from this wonderful sight, I went to the restaurant as planned and had a very nice lunch there. It might not have been original, but it was tasty.

Lunch near Lake Krøderen

And yet, before I returned to the car and continued on my way, I had to capture the beautiful waters of Lake Krøderen one more time.

Lake Krøderen

I soon entered the Hallingdal Valley (Hallingdal), through which the Hallingdal River (Hallingdalselva) flows. Whenever I came across a convenient spot where I could stop, I did so to take better photographs. At other locations, I continued with occasional shots from the car, but as it can be seen, most often there was no one else around.

Hallingdal

Hallingdal River

Of course, from time to time, vehicles did appear, both in my direction and coming the other way, but I was especially careful and focused when taking photos with my mobile phone. Still, I made sure to take advantage of every convenient parking spot to capture better shots.

On the way from Gulsvik to Trøym

At one point, I passed through the town of Gol, which is home to the beautiful Gol Stave Church. This church can be seen at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History in Oslo, which I mentioned in Part 1 of my travel stories through Norway in 2024 (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/norway-1/).

From Gol, the road practically enters the Hemsdal Valley, through which the Hemsila River flows. As I continued upstream, high mountains began to appear, surrounding the valley, and in mid-April these mountains were still covered in snow.

On the way from Gulsvik to Trøym

Along the road, I occasionally saw houses with roofs traditionally covered with grass.

On the way from Gulsvik to Trøym

In this part of the journey, I even started taking photos from the side without looking at the phone or its screen. I would simply keep my eyes on the road, with my right hand holding the phone beside my left shoulder and snap away. Oh, yes... a lot of photos ended up in the trash. But some turned out comparatively well.

On the way from Gulsvik to Trøym

Here and there, I passed by some settlements, but there was also a lot of agricultural land waiting for nice weather and warmth to begin its annual growth and harvest cycle.

On the way from Gulsvik to Trøym

The road gradually climbed and soon more snow was visible alongside it.

On the way from Gulsvik to Trøym

The road continued to climb from Trøym, at around 630 meters above sea level, towards Storeskard Lake (Storeskardvatnet), at about 910 meters above sea level, so there was significantly more snow.

On the way from Trøym to Borgund

On the way from Trøym to Borgund; Storeskard Lake under snow and ice

On the way from Trøym to Borgund

I didn’t actually know what to expect on this route, so I was somewhat surprised to find that I was driving over mountains. Granted, it was a beautiful and well-maintained road, but still over mountains.

On the way from Trøym to Borgund

Thus I reached Slette Lake (Slettevatnet) at around 1130 meters. It was covered in both snow and ice, but on this stretch of the road, I was often completely alone, so I could stop, roll down the window and take photos safely without bothering anyone.

On the way from Trøym to Borgund

At one point, the road began to descend and this was clearly noticeable not only by the road and signs but also by the vegetation. At a certain elevation, what started to appear were trees which are absent in the higher mountain areas exposed to harsher cold and stronger winds.

On the way from Trøym to Borgund

And so I descended into a smaller valley through which the Lærdalselvi River flows where I continued to follow it westward.

On the way from Trøym to Borgund

Soon, I arrived at the main destination for the day, the incredibly beautiful and charming Borgund Stave Church.

Borgund Stave Church

Norway 2024, part 5 (Oslo)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 05 Jun 2026 14:30:00 GMT

The main reason I thought of coming to the Historical Museum in Oslo, and I even hurried to make sure it wouldn't close, was incorrect information I somehow found on the internet.

Historical Museum

Namely, near the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, which I visited the day before, there is another excellent and important museum: the Viking Ship Museum. However, it is currently undergoing renovation (scheduled to reopen in 2027) and I found some information suggesting that many of the exhibits have been temporarily moved to the Historical Museum, so I decided to come here.

As it turned out and as explained by a friendly woman at the ticket desk, the Viking ships have remained at the museum undergoing renovation, but they are protected and preserved there because moving them would be too complicated and risky. Additionally, other exhibits are stored in temporary facilities until the new museum is completed. So, no chance of seeing the exhibits from the Viking Ship Museum, but, as the lady mentioned, the Historical Museum does have some Viking-era exhibits that are not found in the currently closed museum.

She didn’t have to work too hard to "sell" me on the story. As I’ve mentioned, I had already seen some Viking ships when I was in Denmark, so I wasn’t too disappointed (see: (https://www.svudapodji.com/en/denmark-1/). And since I was here, I decided to visit the museum anyway.

In the end, my impression was somewhat mixed. On the one hand, I was glad I came; I saw a few interesting exhibits. On the other hand, I don't think I would have missed anything too significant (to me) if I hadn't visited. However, if I hadn't visited the museum, I wouldn't have known whether it was worth seeing or not.

A significant part of Scandinavia, and thus Norway, was historically inhabited by the Vikings. The term "Vikings" actually refers to Nordic (Scandinavian) warriors and pirates (my first association), and to some extent traders, who were active from the late 8th century to the mid-11th century. At that time, there were few cities in these regions and people mostly lived on farms. Over time, settlements began to form, which involved grouping houses together and establishing workshops and marketplaces for trade. This change in lifestyle was accompanied by a centralisation of political power, leading to the formation of a unified kingdom instead of smaller chiefdoms. This, in turn, led to the minting of coins used throughout the territory. Additionally, in the 11th century, there was a gradual transition from the old Norse pagan religion to Christianity. This also marked a shift from runic writing to the Latin alphabet.

One of the interesting exhibits at the Historical Museum in Oslo is a runestone from the period 1040-1050.

Runestone from the 11th century

Here I also saw typical Scandinavian oval brooches from the 9th-10th centuries, as well as trefoil brooches mostly from the first half of the 10th century.

Historical Museum, a detail

But, the Vikings are primarily known as exceptional seafarers and fierce warriors. Accordingly, their swords were a mark of prestige in ancient Nordic society and almost served as "jewellery" for warriors. So much so that they were often destroyed before being placed in the grave alongside their owner. In one section of the museum, one can see swords from the 9th and 10th centuries.

Historical Museum, a detail

However, one of the exhibits is almost a genuine piece of jewellery, as it is exceptionally beautiful and skilfully made of gold – it's a spur from the 10th century.

Historical Museum, a detail

In addition to being known as warriors (and raiders), the Vikings were also exceptional seafarers. It is now known that it was indeed the Nordics, or Vikings, not Christopher Columbus, who were the first Europeans to reach North America in the 10th century and they even established some small settlements there at the time. Of course, they needed to be skilled sailors also to efficiently cross the seas to Europe and conduct their raids, but they did not live solely off raiding; they also traded in furs, reindeer antlers, stone and iron. This led not only to the exchange of goods, but also to the establishment of contacts and networks. Thus, the museum also displays a small figure of a knight on horseback, discovered recently, in 2015. It is presumed that the figure either served as a toy or was brought back as a souvenir from Europe.

Historical Museum, a detail

After visiting the section of the museum dedicated exclusively to Viking-era exhibits, I also went to the part that displays some large items from the same period, as well as artefacts created under the influence of Christianity. For instance, there are two wooden sculptures representing the two most important saints in medieval Norway – St. Olaf and St. Mary.

Historical Museum, a detail

There is another runestone that is particularly significant. This is the Tune stone from the town of Tune in southern Norway. It is believed that the stone was inscribed and erected around the year 400 CE, but it was discovered in 1627 as part of a wall around the churchyard in Tune. Given the inscription on the stone, it is the earliest document in Norway that records a bequest or inheritance.

Historical Museum, a detail

The Tune stone has inscriptions on two sides with incomplete text, but experts have managed to interpret it and have determined that the stone records a father leaving his inheritance to his three daughters.

Historical Museum, a detail

By the way, runes are an ancient Germanic script used in Scandinavia. They varied in the number of symbols/letters used at different times and places, but they are characterised by their "angular" shapes, which made carving them into stone much easier.

However, there were no such issues with carving in wood, as seen in the outstanding portals of ancient wooden churches that have survived. One such example is the portal from a wooden or stave church (stavkirke) in the town of Hjartdal, which was demolished in 1860, but the portal was preserved as a museum piece. The portal is covered with carvings of dragons and plants – the symbols of life, renewal and growth.

Historical Museum, a detail

Another portal is from the Ål stave church, Hallingdal.

Historical Museum, a detail

This church was also demolished in 1880. The reason for the demolition of these ancient wooden churches was practical. While they may have been a source of pride for the small communities they served when they were built, times changed along with the number of worshippers, making them literally outdated – too small, too cold, too dark and too old-fashioned.

Fortunately, in addition to the portal, another part of the Ål stave church in Hallingdal was also preserved – its magnificent wooden ceiling, which is about 700 years old, considering that the church was built in the 13th century.

Historical Museum, a detail

The parish church was the place where people gathered on Sundays and the priest would read the Bible in the old Norse dialect. However, he would later sing in Latin, which was, of course, completely incomprehensible to the mostly illiterate local population. The core messages conveyed were that this life is hard and short, but that a new life with Christ follows. Therefore, the interior of the church was designed to attract people to this idea, with colourful images in bright hues standing in stark contrast to the smoky log cabins in which people lived.

Historical Museum, a detail

After visiting the museum, I went for a walk to explore two interesting streets; some say these are the two most beautiful streets in Oslo. Along the way, I also passed by some buildings that aren't as well-known, but are nonetheless quite attractive.

Oslo, a detail

The reason why these two small streets, Damstredet and Telthusbakken, located not far from the centre of Oslo, are considered interesting is that the houses in these streets have largely remained as they were in the past. Due to the concentration of these houses in a small area, they provide a good illustration of how urban Norwegians lived in earlier times.

Square from which Damstredet street begins to descend

Oslo is, of course, developing and this often involves demolishing the old to make way for the new. This is happening less and less haphazardly, not only in Oslo, as people have become more aware of the importance and value of old buildings, while efforts are being made to preserve them. However, success in preserving these structures can vary.

In any case, I first took a walk down Damstredet.

Damstredet Street

Then I climbed a beautiful, but steep path to reach the middle of Telthusbakken.

Along the way, I also noticed a sizable piece of land almost in the centre of Oslo where, I assume, local residents can grow their own vegetables. These are community gardens, established in 1915, making them the oldest community gardens in Oslo. I find this idea really appealing and always wonder if something similar could be set up near the building where I live. However, it seems to me that for various reasons, such a project would not work as well in Belgrade.

Community gardens – small vegetable patches

As I walked along the path beside the community gardens, I not only noticed that the path leads directly to Telthusbakken, but I also spotted Oslo's oldest building, the medieval Old Aker Church (Gamle Aker kirke). It is believed to have been built in 1080 and it is the only church from the Middle Ages in Oslo that has survived to this day.

Telthusbakken Street is straight, while the vegetable patches are to the right

As for the Damstredet and Telthusbakken streets, their beauty comes from the wooden houses that are about 200 years old. Thus collectively, both the streets and the houses represent Norwegian cultural heritage, so it is not allowed for the houses to alter their external appearance, including their facades and surroundings. However, it is perfectly acceptable to modernise the interiors of these houses.

Telthusbakken Street

Now I decided to head back toward the centre and first walked through a cemetery (Vår Frelsers gravlund). I found it interesting to see that many of the graves are from people born in the mid-19th century, indicating that this is quite an old cemetery. Notably, Henrik Ibsen, the famous Norwegian playwright, and Edvard Munch, the renowned Norwegian painter, were also buried here, but I wasn't particularly in the mood to search for their graves.

Old cemetery in Oslo

And yet, quite by accident, I noticed a gravestone which clearly shows that several people buried there have Serbian names. I wonder what fate brought them here.

Old cemetery in Oslo, a detail

At the cemetery, specifically on the trees growing there, I spotted two birds. One was a fieldfare (Turdus pilaris) and the other was a common blackbird (Turdus merula).

Fieldfare

Male common blackbird

By this point, I was quite tired from all the walking I had done that day, but it was still early to return to the room where I was staying. A few hours earlier, I had had a quick lunch, so I decided to go out for a coffee. There were plenty of places where I could sit, but I chose one I had liked the day before, near the Opera in the new district. This meant I had to walk quite a bit out of my way, but in the end, I was satisfied. However, the wind was blowing, making it a bit chilly to sit in the garden, so I didn't stay there for long.

Returning to the apartment was quite straightforward, as I had already become familiar with this part of the city and it was interesting to see some very modern buildings. I assume some are used for commercial purposes, but some also appear to be residential.

Oslo, a detail

Although it was still daylight when I returned to the flat, I was glad to be able to unwind well, as I was leaving Oslo the next day.

I planned the rest of my trip through Norway to be quite relaxed and comfortable. I had decided to rent a car for the next 5 days, as I thought it would be quite challenging to visit the places I was interested in using public transportation. Although renting a car in Norway, like many other things, is not exactly cheap, I believe it would have been more expensive to rely on public transport, plus I’m sure it would have taken me much more time than the 4.5 days I had left during this trip.

To make picking up and returning the car easier, I reserved the car to be picked up and returned at Oslo Airport, where I would also need to go back to before my flight to Belgrade.

Accordingly, the next day I went to the train station relatively early, took the train to the airport and found the car rental company. On the first day, I planned to visit only a couple of places, but they were relatively far apart, plus one of them had specific operating hours, so it was crucial for me to get there while it was open.

I was a bit surprised when they told me they didn’t have cars with manual transmissions, only automatics, even though I had made the reservation a few months earlier. They did offer me a van with a manual transmission, but that really wasn’t suitable for me.

I had driven automatic cars a few times in my life, but there was always someone with me, so I was hesitant. The person at the rental company assured me everything would be fine and took me to the car for a brief tutorial. I didn’t really have a choice. As it turned out, I quickly got used to the new driving system and it didn’t pose any problems for me in the end.

One partial issue was that the GPS system in the car wasn’t very effective, at least not for a foreigner and a tourist. Specifically, it was necessary to enter the exact address in Norwegian for the system to provide accurate directions. Over the next few days, I managed somehow to overcome this challenge, while I also made extensive use of my mobile phone and offline maps that I had downloaded before the trip.

On the bright side, the best aspect of the car was that it was practically brand new – having been driven less than 2000 km. In the following 4.5 days, I ended up driving almost the same distance myself.

Here is the map showing the routes I took:

Norway 2024, part 4 (Fetsund Lenser, Oslo)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 29 May 2026 15:29:00 GMT

I wasn’t in a particular hurry the next morning, primarily because I knew that the museum at my planned destination for the day was only open in the summer. Still, I liked the idea of visiting the Fetsund Lenser site, which is located between the settlements of Nerdrum and Fetsund. It’s better (and closer) to take the train to Nerdrum. So that’s what I did.

Train station in Nerdrum

From there to my destination was less than a kilometre and I quite enjoyed walking through the “sleepy” settlement.

Nerdrum, a detail

Almost the only living beings I saw along the way, aside from a few cars that passed by, were birds. For example, a fieldfare (Turdus pilaris) and a flock in the sky that likely consisted of graylag geese (Anser anser).

Fieldfare

Flock of graylag geese

Following the path, I also arrived at a spot where one can descend to the Glomma River

The Glomma River

The Fetsund Lenser site is a national heritage monument in Norway. During the season, you can visit a museum dedicated to timber floating, which was a method of transporting logs down the river, that also serves as a nature centre. This is because the site is located at the entrance to the Northern Øyeren nature reserve, which is the name for the northernmost inland delta in Europe. Namely, the Glomma River, the longest river in Norway (621 km), flows into Lake Øyeren and creates a delta before continuing as a river until it reaches the sea, where it empties into the Oslofjord.

Fetsund Lenser was used to collect and sort timber logs floating down the Glomma River. The practice of floating cut trees down rivers dates back to the Middle Ages, but significantly expanded from the 16th century with the increased export of timber, particularly to England and the Netherlands. The owners of forests upstream from Fetsund Lenser banded together to create this site. Logs would initially be marked with the owner’s brand and then gathered and sorted here. The season ran from May to September, during which up to 14 million logs could be sorted. This practice continued until 1985, while today the museum includes 2.5 km of floating paths.

The Glomma River and parts of the Fetsund Lenser site

The floating platforms were used by workers who guided the logs. The paths were typically made of four thick boards and were constructed during winter. For everything to function properly, three types of workers were needed: those who worked year-round and lived nearby, those who were hired in the fall to assist with maintenance and cleaning, and seasonal workers. This seasonal rhythm was strictly followed because logs couldn’t be transported down the river in winter, so this time was used for maintaining the site, repairing machinery and boats. Even today, maintenance is carried out in winter, while the museum is open only during the summer.

Since the museum was closed in April, I came here to take a walk by the river and I must admit that I thoroughly enjoyed it.

The Glomma River and parts of the Fetsund Lenser site

The Glomma River and a walking path

Further along, I saw some small houses between the floating paths, but I’m not sure what their current purpose is.

The Glomma River and parts of the Fetsund Lenser site

The Glomma River and the walking path

Along the walking path, there are occasional informational signs. For instance, one sign notes that Lake Øyeren is home to 25 species of fish, making it the body of water with the highest number of fish species in Norway. Those who are interested and knowledgeable can even fish here.

I, however, was just walking and observing the river and the floating paths stretching down the river.

The Glomma River and parts of the Fetsund Lenser site

But although the river looked very beautiful and placid that day, this can be very deceptive. I passed by a stone pillar marking historical water levels of the river. The Glomma River has occasionally risen significantly and the entire area would become flooded. However, after the floods of 1967 (the level from that year is marked at about a third of the way up the pillar), a dam was constructed, along with diversion tunnels for the water, so the situation is much better today. For example, in 1995, the water flow in the river was much higher than in 1967, but the flood level was significantly lower – a mark that can be seen on the base of the pillar.

Pillar marking the historical water levels of the Glomma River

Having photographed the stone pillar, I continued with my walk.

The Glomma River

Branch of the Glomma River

Soon, I also arrived at a sawmill. The first sawmill was established here in 1908, but it was replaced by a new one in the mid-20th century, which burned down in 1986. When the museum was opened, the currently visible sawmill was donated by a municipality and relocated here.

Sawmill at the Fetsund Lenser site

The sawmill is still used today to cut materials for the maintenance and restoration of the buildings and facilities.

Sawmill at the Fetsund Lenser site

Logs are transferred from the river to the sawmill via a "bridge" and then they are cut into planks there.

Sawmill at the Fetsund Lenser site

I walked along the path underneath the bridge and continued further. There is a café-restaurant here, but like the rest of the open-air museum, it was closed.

Fetsund Lenser

And then I reached a place where I could cross onto a floating path. Although there was a warning sign stating that the paths are used at one's own risk due to strong river currents, I still felt compelled to walk a bit on it. I followed the advice on the warning sign to stay in the middle of the path. This was truly important, as I didn't see anyone around and it would have been quite inconvenient for me to fall into the cold river.

Fetsund Lenser

Fetsund Lenser and the Glomma River

Although the surface of the river in this area was as smooth as glass, it was clear that the current was moving quite swiftly in the middle. However, I had no intention of going very far.

Fetsund Lenser and the Glomma River

As I was returning to the solid ground, I remembered to take a selfie, making sure to watch where I was standing.

At the Fetsund Lenser site

I played around with photographing a bit more and soon I was back on terra firma. The little adventure went well.

Fetsund Lenser and the Glomma River

Continuing my walk, I photographed the small houses connected by floating paths, as well as the left bank of the Glomma River.

Fetsund Lenser and the Glomma River

I also photographed the wide path and, further along, I spotted some people.

Path alongside the Glomma River

I have already mentioned that the Northern Øyeren nature reserve, established in 1975, is located here. This part of the lake with its delta, where there is practically a wetland area, holds international significance due to the thousands of migratory birds that stop here every spring and fall. Not only does the delta provide food, but it also offers safe resting spots.

I did see some birds, but I think they were local species without international significance. However, I still found them quite interesting. These included the Eurasian nuthatch (Sitta europaea) and the Eurasian blue tit (Cyanistes caeruleus).

Eurasian nuthatch

Eurasian blue tit

I walked for about 1.5 km along the river and arrived at a small channel where boats were parked, having been pulled out of the water for the winter.

The Glomma River

Branch of the Glomma River

When I decided that I had walked enough along the river, I started heading back towards the train station. At first, I followed the river, but then I ventured into the residential areas, walking through the local streets.

Selfie beside the Glomma River

Nerdrum settlement

I didn’t see any people, but I did spot and photograph a white wagtail (Motacilla alba).

White wagtail

At the station, I had enough time to ponder and my thoughts turned to railways and the modern age. I found it curious to see what a 21st-century railway station looks like, especially in such a small place. There was no one around – just a small building with a bench, a ticket vending machine and a monitor displaying the arrival times of the next trains and their directions.

Perhaps nothing more is needed, but I’m “old school” and appreciate human interaction, even at railway stations when buying tickets. I understand that this way is more efficient on paper (since it doesn’t require paying staff, who are considered a “cost” in economics), but in reality, I’m not sure. Ticket prices tend to rise quickly due to “greater efficiency” and profits continuously “must” increase to raise stock values, so for passengers, it’s about the same in the end.

I’m beginning to be bothered by how everything is viewed through the lens of money. I remembered the self-critique from the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/norway-2/) and the mentioning of the past enrichment through the slave trade. If that were “in” today, people in positions of power would have no problems seeking to profit and increase stock values, even through the slave trade. I am always shocked when I realise the boundless greed that fills so many members of the human race. Well, that’s how my thoughts went from the local railway station to trade with human beings.

Still, I also observed my surroundings and noticed that, even in late April, there was still snow on some of the slopes.

Snow around Nerdrum

Since the train arrived on time, I settled in comfortably, and about 20 minutes later I was at Oslo Central Station.

Then I headed towards a museum, taking one of the main streets in the city, Karl Johans St. (Karl Johans Gate).

This street extends from the railway station to the Royal Palace. The first part is earmarked for pedestrians, but later on, it accommodates both pedestrians and vehicles, though it remains commercial throughout. It's a lovely street for a stroll, passing by some beautiful buildings. Along the way, you come across the Parliament building, a park in front of the National Theatre and the theatre itself, while at the elevated areas, you can see the Royal Palace surrounded by a park. You also pass by the University of Oslo.

Pedestrian section of Karl Johans gate

Karl Johans Gate, a detail

At one point, I realised I needed to grab something to eat, but I was eager to reach the museum before it closed. This meant that a regular sit-down restaurant wasn't an option. I must admit that restaurants often don’t suit me because of the time I spend there – first waiting for the menu, then for the food to arrive and finally for the bill. This is fine when I’m in a relaxed mood, but when I’m sightseeing or in a hurry, it’s simply inconvenient. On the other hand, I need to eat.

This time, I opted for a fast food restaurant – something like a Swedish version of McDonald’s. Since I eat such food maybe once every two years, I wasn’t worried about it and ended up being quite satisfied – full and not having spent much time.

With my stomach full, I continued the stroll down Karl Johans Gate and soon passed by the Norwegian Parliament – Stortinget.

Norwegian Parliament building

The Stortinget Building, with its yellow brick façade and granite foundation, was completed in 1866 and it houses the Norwegian Parliament. Given the current size of the parliament, several other buildings are also used for its functions.

Although the building features various architectural styles, the most beautiful part is the western façade, which faces Storting Park (Stortingsparken).

Norwegian Parliament building

There are in fact three green areas that start here, each extending in a linear fashion and separated by streets.

Part of the park in the centre of Oslo

In the third section, as viewed from the Parliament building, known as Student Garden Park (Studenterlunden Park), there is the National Theatre in Oslo (Det Norske Teatret), which I mentioned in a previous part of my travelogue about the visit to Norway in April 2024.

National Theatre in Oslo

However, probably the most important building you can see here, at the end of Karl Johans Gate, is the Royal Palace (Det Kongelige Slott), situated in a park open to the public.

Royal Palace in Oslo

The palace was built in the first half of the 19th century for King Charles III John of Norway (Karl III Johan) (1763-1844), after whom the street is named. He was also King Charles XIV John of Sweden, as Sweden and Norway were united from 1814 following the Napoleonic Wars. Despite his regal titles, he was born Jean-Baptiste Jules Bernadotte, i.e., he was born in France and served as a Marshal of France during the Napoleonic Wars. Interestingly, in 1810, he was chosen to be the successor to the then Swedish king, Charles XIII of Sweden, who had no children, and was formally adopted by him.

As for Karl Johans Gate, in this part of the street where the parks extend on one side, it takes on a more formal and elegant appearance, with upscale hotels and restaurants located on the other side.

Karl Johans Gate, a detail

But, even along the side streets of Karl Johans Gate, there are interesting sights to see. As I’ve mentioned earlier, I had the impression that Oslo has more monuments and sculptures scattered throughout its streets than any other city I've visited.

Oslo, a detail

Near the end of the street, across from the park and the National Theatre, there is another significant institution: the central building of the University of Oslo, along with several other university buildings.

Parts of the University of Oslo (a little farther, on the left-hand side, you can see the Royal Palace)

I walked along some paths to reach the back side of the university's central building, where I first photographed the Old National Gallery. Then, I headed to my main destination at this time: the Historical Museum (Historisk Museum), which I was eager to explore.

Old National Gallery

Norway 2024, part 3 (Oslo)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 22 May 2026 19:53:00 GMT

Returning from the Bygdøy Peninsula, where I visited the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, I got off in the centre of Oslo at a bus stop near the National Theatre. However, I only saw the building from the back, as my plan was to head towards the Pipervika bay.

National Theatre in Oslo

The first performance at this theatre took place in 1899 and the building was at first entirely privately-owned. However, due to some financial issues, the state began to provide some financial support. I'm not sure what the situation is today.

So, I headed towards the Pipervika bay, which is part of the Oslofjord, with the intention of passing by the Oslo City Hall.

Oslo City Hall

Here is where the city government and various municipal organisations are housed, while the building was constructed between 1931 and 1950. As it can be seen, the structure is made of red brick, with two prominent towers; one is 63 m tall and the other is 66 m tall. Interestingly, in the eastern tower, which I could see since the western one was covered with scaffolding for renovations, there is a carillon with 49 bells. By the way (since I didn't know this before), carillon is a musical instrument consisting of at least 23 bronze bells, typically housed in a bell tower of a church or a municipal building, as is the case here.

Oslo City Hall

The building faces the bay and the Oslofjord.

View at the Oslofjord

Since there is a large bay here, it is quite normal to see a lot of seabirds. Here are two of them, both are gulls. In the foreground is a lesser black-backed gull (Larus fuscus), while in the background is a black-headed gull (Larus ridibundus).

Gulls in Oslo

Now I headed from City Hall Square towards a very lively area of Oslo called Aker Brygge. Here, the first thing you come across is the Nobel Peace Centre – a museum dedicated to the Nobel Peace Prize, Alfred Nobel and the laureates of the prize.

Nobel Peace Centre

Alfred Nobel (1833-1896) was a Swedish chemist, inventor (he discovered dynamite), engineer and industrialist who left his substantial personal fortune to a foundation that funds the Nobel Prizes awarded since 1901 (with occasional exceptions). According to Alfred Nobel’s will, prizes are awarded in the fields of chemistry, physics, medicine, literature and peace. Since 1969, the foundation has also awarded the Nobel Prize in Economic Sciences.

Interestingly, the Peace Prize is awarded in Norway, while all the other prizes are awarded in Sweden. This might seem unsurprising since Nobel was Swedish, but the reason why he designated Norway for the Peace Prize remains uncertain. There are speculations, of course, one of which is that, during Nobel's lifetime, Sweden and Norway were in a union that Norwegians reluctantly joined in 1814 when Sweden took control of their country. It is believed that Nobel thought awarding the Peace Prize in Norway could promote “friendship among nations.”

In any case, from the Nobel Peace Centre, a pleasant promenade begins in the Aker Brygge neighbourhood filled with cafés and restaurants. Since it was a sunny day, the beautiful weather attracted many residents of Oslo.

Promenade in the Aker Brygge neighbourhood

I continued my walk along the spacious promenade with a clear plan to find a place for lunch. I didn't hesitate for long, as I was drawn to a restaurant by the water that caught my eye.

Restaurant within the Aker Brygge neighbourhood

I sat down at a table where I had a relatively good view and enjoyed the sunshine. On the other side of the Pipervika bay is a fortress that I planned to visit later, so this was kind of a preparatory moment for me.

Akershus Fortress

I decided to have Norwegian shrimps, which are considered a particularly high-quality type of shrimps, plus I also ordered Norwegian beer in order to try it, although I usually have trouble when I drink beer during the day – it tends to make me feel sleepy. My plan for the day certainly did not include an afternoon nap, but I couldn’t help it...

Norwegian shrimps

Norwegian beer

The nice weather and sunshine shouldn't deceive anyone – it was chilly enough that I felt perfectly comfortable sitting in my warm down jacket.

By the way, although I didn’t get any dessert here, that didn’t stop me from making the famous Norwegian sweet at home, which has both its official name and a nickname it’s known by – The World’s Best Cake. Of course, that’s a bit of an exaggeration, but for me, it was easier to try making this than Norwegian shrimp, which I certainly can’t buy in Belgrade. The result was quite positive and while I don’t think this is truly the best cake in the world, it was definitely very tasty and quickly eaten.

My World’s Best Cake placed on a platter I have made myself

WORLD’S BEST CAKE

110 g butter
125 g sugar
4 egg yolks
4 tablespoons milk
150 g all purpose flour
6 g of baking powder
6 g of vanilla sugar
4 egg whites
200 g sugar
50 g thinly sliced almonds
50 g sugar
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons cornstarch
500 ml milk
12 g of vanilla sugar
250 ml double cream

My World’s Best Cake served on a plate which I have, naturally, made myself

Cream the butter (at room temperature) and sugar until fluffy. Add the egg yolks one at a time, continuing to beat. Finally, add the milk and mix everything well. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder and vanilla sugar, then gently fold it into the creamed butter mixture.

Spread the batter thinly in a rectangular baking pan (about 30 x 40 cm) and set aside. Beat the egg whites and sugar until stiff peaks form. Spread this meringue over the yellow batter. Sprinkle with the almond flakes and bake at 170°C.

Meanwhile, prepare the yellow filling by whisking the egg yolks and sugar until smooth, then add the cornstarch. Continue whisking until the mixture turns pale yellow. Bring the milk to a boil and add the vanilla sugar. Before the milk actually boils, pour it into the egg yolk mixture while whisking continuously to prevent curdling. Once well combined, return it to the saucepan and cook over the stove until thickened. Set aside to cool completely.

Whip the heavy cream to soft peaks, then fold it into the cooled yellow filling.

Once the cake has baked and cooled, cut it in two. Place one half on a serving tray with the almond and meringue side facing down. Spread the cooled filling over it, then place the second layer on top with the almond and meringue side facing up. Refrigerate to chill and before serving decorate with fresh berries.

As for the Aker Brygge neighbourhood, it was once a hub of industry, but things changed in the 1980s and 1990s, and it has since become a popular spot for entertainment, dining and shopping. Naturally, apartment prices have also soared.

After the pleasant lunch, I strolled to the end of the promenade.

Promenade in the Aker Brygge neighbourhood

Aker Brygge neighbourhood, a detail

Here is also the Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art. In fact, the museum is located on a small peninsula that extends from Aker Brygge and has been housed in a modern building since 2012. The building was designed by an Italian architect.

The Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art

I didn’t plan a visit to the museum, but I noticed a few interesting birds here. The first was a red-breasted merganser (Mergus serrator), while the other were two black-headed gulls (Larus ridibundus).

Red-breasted merganser

Two black-headed gulls

So, I reached the end of the land, which meant I was on the shore of the Oslofjord. As I’ve mentioned earlier, the bay of the Oslofjord on the western side, where Aker Brygge is located, is called Pipervika, while on the opposite side of the bay is the Akershus Fortress.

End of the dry land and the Oslofjord

Oslofjord and the Akershus Fortress

I started heading back precisely in order to cross to the eastern side of the bay, as I planned to visit the Akershus Fortress next.

View at the Pipervika bay and the Akershus Fortress

However, because of the beer, I wasn't feeling very energetic, so I first stopped at a café on the promenade to have a coffee. It was just what I needed.

After this break, I continued exploring Oslo and started to walk from City Hall Square towards the fortress. The incline isn’t steep, but it does offer a nice view of the square.

View at the Pipervika bay, Aker Brygge and the City Hall Square

The Akershus Fortress is also known as Akershus Castle and its construction began in the late 13th century. Its original purpose was to serve as a royal residence and as a stronghold to protect the city of Oslo, which was developing to the east of the fortress. Over time, the castle and its surrounding fortress have been modified, especially in the early 17th century and later in the 18th century. Naturally, the fortress was used for military purposes and continues to function as a military base even today.

Akershus Fortress, a detail

I found it interesting to read that the fortress was never captured by foreign enemies, despite several attempts. However, it did surrender to Nazi Germany in 1940 without a fight. The Germans used the fortress for various purposes, including executing captured members of the Norwegian resistance movement. What was even more intriguing was that, after World War II, Vidkun Quisling was executed here in 1945. Quisling was a military officer and politician who collaborated with the Nazis and led the Norwegian government during the war. After the war, he was tried and executed in October, while his name has become synonymous with "traitor" and "collaborator" in many languages, including English – where "quisling" and its plural " quislings" denote traitors to one's country and collaborators (of enemies). So, he was executed right here, at the Akershus Fortress.

Akershus Fortress, a detail

Needless to say, in April 2024, everything was quite lovely and peaceful, so much so that a European herring gull (Larus argentatus) was calmly standing a few metres away from me, enjoying the beautiful sunny day just as I was.

European herring gull

As I’ve said before, this is an active military base and I did see people in uniform, but I didn't take any pictures of them.

Akershus Fortress, a detail

As for the castle, like a few other museums located in this area, it is open for visits, but I hadn’t planned on going inside. It was quite enough for me just to walk around the grounds.

Akershus Fortress, a detail

From here, there is also a beautiful view of the Oslofjord.

View of the Oslofjord from the area of the Akershus Fortress

Then I made a wider loop around the castle before heading towards the exit from the fortress.

Akershus Fortress, a detail

I soon set out through the streets of Oslo, as my plan was to continue my exploration further east. Along the way, I passed various houses and buildings – some old and some new.

Oslo, a detail

My goal was to reach another bay within the Oslofjord where the Oslo Opera House is located.

Oslo Opera House is on the left and the Munch Museum is on the right

Oslo Opera House

It was already late afternoon (around 5-6 p.m.), but the days in mid-April are quite long in Northern Europe. Darkness only begins to fall after 9 p.m. At around 5-6 in the afternoon, provided it's not cloudy, the sun shines brightly, making it an ideal time to observe the interesting architecture of the Opera House and other buildings.

However, what particularly fascinated me right from the start was the fact that in this weather (it was sunny, but only 11°C) some Oslo residents were daring enough not only to sunbathe in swimsuits by the fjord, but also to go into the water and swim.

Going for a swim at 11°C

In any case, I had no intention of dipping even a single finger into what was undoubtedly icy water by my standards. Instead, I continued my walk and taking photos.

Oslo, a detail

Thus I circled the bay and slowly approached the Opera House.

The building, completed in 2007, houses the Norwegian National Opera and Ballet. It is vast, with a total area of 49,000 sq. m, 1,100 rooms and three stages. It is the largest cultural building erected in Norway since around 1300, when the Trondheim Cathedral was built.

Oslo Opera House

On the outside, the building is particularly notable for its details made of Carrara marble and white granite, as well as the glass-clad central section. The design was conceived to make the building resemble a glacier rising from the Oslofjord.

Oslo Opera House, a detail

What gives this building its unique charm is that the Opera House design includes a feature allowing visitors (those exploring the exterior) to climb up to the roof.

Oslo Opera House, a detail

You can access the roof via a slope or by using stairs built alongside a low wall that serves as a railing. On the other hand, there is a sign indicating that bicycles and skateboards are not allowed and it also notes that the stairs and slope can be slippery, so climbing is at your own risk. Naturally, I climbed up, but there was no real risk as everything was dry.

On the roof of the Oslo Opera House

It is truly nice to come here, as there is a wonderful view in all directions. For instance, you can see the sculpture "She Lies", created by the German-Italian artist Monica Bonvicini.

View at the sculpture and a part of the Oslofjord’s bay

There was also a young gull patiently posing, most likely a European herring gull (Larus argentatus).

Juvenile European herring gull

You can also see the Munch Museum and parts of the Bjørvika neighbourhood.

Munch Museum

The Munch Museum was founded in 1963 and was previously located elsewhere. However, since the summer of 2021, the exhibits have been moved to this new building, while the museum officially opened in October of the same year.

As for the Bjørvika neighbourhood, it was a part of Oslo that, until about twenty years ago, was a container port. Then a new urban redevelopment project began and today it is a well-developed area intended to be Oslo's new centre of culture. The Akerselva River also runs through this area.

Part of the Bjørvika neighbourhood

After climbing to the roof of the Opera House, I descended to the promenade around the building and then passed by the Munch Museum, though I had no intention of visiting it. I was starting to feel a bit tired and wanted to return to my room earlier since I hadn’t slept enough the previous night; at least, that’s how I felt throughout the day. I decided to head back to the flat where I had rented a room by going through the Bjørvika neighbourhood, following the Akerselva River.

Part of the Bjørvika neighbourhood

When I reached one of the larger streets, I realised that it should have been the time of day when traffic is usually at its peak. However, I didn’t see any of that in Oslo. I would later come to understand, at the end of my travels in Norway, that numerous highways run beneath the city. Drivers likely use these routes instead of the surface streets, which are filled with traffic lights and pedestrian crossings.

Traffic jam in the streets of Oslo

All in all, I had enough time to run some errands and also go to bed early, as I had plans for the next day – to explore Oslo and its surroundings again. More specifically, I planned to start with the surrounding areas and then return to the city centre.

Norway 2024, part 2 (Oslo)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 15 May 2026 15:27:00 GMT

At the end of the 18th century, over 90% of Norway's population lived in rural areas. Unlike the rest of Europe, Norway did not have villages. Until the 18th century, most peasants rented land from the king or the Church, but this began to change over time. By the 19th century, more and more people were buying their own land. Although these farms were relatively small, there were certainly some peasants who accumulated larger properties. Most peasants lived off farming, but there was also variation, such as combining farming with fishing or forestry.

In line with this, the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History showcases numerous structures that have been relocated from various parts of Norway, clearly illustrating how people once lived in the interior of the country.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Given Norway's climate and topographical features, summer pasturing of livestock in the mountains was a regular routine. There were even cases where the same agricultural farms had several summer dairies at different elevations to make the most of seasonal vegetation. The primary livestock consisted of cows and goats, from which milk was regularly collected and processed into butter and cheese.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

In addition, summer grass was also mown to ensure food for the livestock during the long winters. It was also necessary to provide facilities where the hay could be stored for a sufficient period, until the next season of fresh grass.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

As I’ve mentioned, not all houses were small, such as one built in the Trøndelag region around 1800.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Although the house is older, the interior is furnished to illustrate how it would have looked in the 1960s if a family with children had lived there.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

While walking through the open-air museum on this beautiful sunny day, I passed by traditional fences. I'm not sure if they are there merely to recreate the appearance of agricultural properties or if they are still used today to prevent wild animals from passing through.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Soon, I arrived at a group of houses from the Hardanger region, which served similar functions as other houses on agricultural farms. Some were for people, for living, cooking and laundry; some were for storing products made; some for livestock or hay; and some for tools. Or a combination of these purposes.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

One detail that caught my attention, which I also noticed later in some other houses, is visible in the next photograph. Note the "wall" on the right-hand side and the semi-enclosed porch. I assume these features were designed to reduce the effect of drifting snow during the long, snowy Norwegian winters and to allow people to enter and exit the houses, as well as pass by them.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Eventually, I reached a house from south-western Norway that was built in 1845.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

As I could notice in the case of some other buildings, this house also had a roof covered with a thin layer of earth and grass. Additionally, this type of house was typically built in coastal areas with less wood available, so stone was used in the construction. The houses also had side extensions (lean-tos) protected by stone, where peat was stored in order to be used as fuel.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Here, I also went inside and took a closer look at the interior of the house.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

As I continued along the wide path, I glanced back once more at this house that I found particularly charming.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Soon, I arrived at a large structure from 1838 that used to serve as a complex barn. Such buildings were common on large agricultural farms in the south-western part of the country.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

The building features two stories in the part where threshing was done, as well as ramps for horse-drawn carts used to bring in the grain. Inside the building, there is also a room for storing grains and a stable for horses.

A similar ramp can be seen on a smaller structure that served both as a granary and a stable for horses, which were considered the most valuable agricultural animals. To the left of this structure is a smaller building with an enclosed area, which was used as a pigsty.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

The buildings in this open-air museum are organised by the regions from which they originate, while different parts are enclosed by traditional wooden fences.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

The next region displayed is Hallingdal, located about 150 km northwest of Oslo. The buildings are arranged around a courtyard, vividly illustrating how various structures used for different purposes were built around a shared central space.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Here, I climbed the ramp of one building in order to see how the interior was organised and this is clearly visible in the second photograph – from the upper level, you can see a room that extends the full height of the building, where hay was pitched from above.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Here, too, you can see grass-covered roofs, while some of the smaller buildings served as goat stables.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

The next group of buildings is from the Numedal region, located west of Oslo, which is also organised around a central courtyard.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

In the previous photo, on the left side, you can see a house the ground floor of which was built around 1209 and that served as a large storehouse. In the elevated ground floor (as the house is raised), which is the oldest part of the building, food was stored, while textiles, clothing, and beds were kept on the upper floor. Originally, the first level stood on large stone blocks, but in the 18th century, it was raised onto wooden pillars.

Next to this building is a wooden stable from the second half of the 18th century, used for housing horses, sheep and heifers, with hay stored in the upper floor. This stable has a ramp for hay delivery, while its roof is made of wooden planks, which was common in this region.

Another building within this courtyard features a ramp for hay delivery and a grass-covered roof. This is a stable from the 17th century.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

A farmhouse from the second half of the 18th century also comes from this region.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

The house, which looks charming and fairy-tale-like from the outside, has a very simple ground plan and it consists of just two rooms. The entrance is positioned in the middle, but it practically leads directly into the main room, from which you enter a smaller room.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Then I moved on to the next group of buildings, which come from the Setesdal region in southern Norway.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Here, I first came across a building from the second half of the 17th century that served both as storage and as living quarters in the loft. It is unusual that it has three stories.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Next is a house with an open hearth, built around 1700.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

First, I took note of a type of enclosed porch with minimal openings for light. Then, I peered inside to see what the open hearth looked like.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

The third house in the sequence, built around 1700, is also a combination of storage space on the ground floor and living quarters on the upper floor. During the summer, both floors were used for sleeping.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

And finally, the fourth house in this series is a farmhouse from the second half of the 17th century, which also features an enclosed porch. Inside, the rooms are arranged to reflect what they would have looked like at the time of the original construction.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Since I wanted to join the guided tour organised by the museum on this day at 1 p.m., I concluded my visit to the open-air museum here. As I walked towards The Square within the museum, I passed by a structure typical of the Sami people whom I talked more about in the previous part of my Norway travelogue.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Now I returned to the larger buildings near the museum entrance, where the guided tour was being offered on that day. It was a fortunate coincidence for me and I was glad to take advantage of the opportunity. I arrived just 5 minutes before the tour started.

The Square

The theme of the tour was how the Norwegian aristocracy lived from the 1600s to the 20th century. It was interesting to see some exhibits and learn various details, though my brief conclusion was that this society was quite "politically incorrect," or perhaps it's just a trend now to emphasise certain aspects. For starters, the tour guide mentioned that many Norwegian merchants had profited from the slave trade. She added that this is not often talked about, but it is a "fact that many of them were involved in this kind of trade." She spoke with a tone that seemed uncomfortable on one hand, while on the other hand, it was as if she was following the current trend of openly discussing "past wrongs" to bring historical balance.

In line with this, she constantly emphasised how the aristocracy (which included officers, clergy and wealthy merchants, as there were not many true aristocrats since the king was in Denmark, i.e., Copenhagen, during that period) insisted on being separate from peasants, to be "better" and "more noble" regardless of the financial status of others.

No amount of attempts to "make amends" today can rectify past injustices, though it is certainly better to discuss them than to sweep them under the rug. What is always important is how people behave today, regardless of their status or class. And if someone thinks that there are no "classes" in societies that consider themselves civilised, they are gravely mistaken.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

One of the more interesting details was the exhibit showing what a "gentleman" had to carry when travelling. There were various small items, but also a couple of pistols, because you never knew when an insult might occur and then, of course, one would need to go out for a duel.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

On the Bygdøy Peninsula, where I visited the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, there are several other important museums. Probably the most significant among them is the Viking Ship Museum (Vikingskipshuset), but it was closed for renovation until 2027. However, I didn’t feel too disappointed, as I had visited a similar museum in Denmark (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/denmark-1/).

In any case, after the organised tour concluded, I left the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History and waited for a bus in order to return to the city centre. I got off at the National Theatre in Oslo.

Norway 2024, part 1 (Oslo)

Verica Ristic — Fri, 08 May 2026 17:55:00 GMT

For a number of years, I have been thinking about visiting Norway. I must admit that I have one specific trip in mind for this country, but that will still have to wait. For now, I have decided that my first visit to Norway will last a week, with the idea of spending that time exploring the capital city and then various parts of the southern regions of the country. Here is the map showing where I ended up travelling:

To start with, I took a late flight from Belgrade to Oslo and then I arrived at Oslo's Central Station by express train. From there, I walked to the flat where I had rented a room.

Norway is known as one of the most expensive countries in Europe, so I decided to "save" a bit by booking just a room within a flat. However, I must admit that the hosts won me over with the location of their dwelling – just a dozen-minute walk from the city's main train station. On the other hand, both the hosts and the flat were great, so I was more than happy with my choice.

Oslo is considered a very safe city, so there was no reason to worry about walking alone on the streets around midnight. After all, they were mostly empty and although I was eager to get to bed, I stopped at a few spots to photograph Oslo at night. I figured I wouldn’t have another chance to see the city in that light, which turned out to be a completely accurate assumption.

Oslo at night

The next day, after a good night's sleep, I first had a pleasant chat with one of the hosts who was working from home that day. Then I made coffee and went through my morning "rituals" before getting ready and heading out for a walk around Oslo and its surroundings.

I had already made a plan back at home about what I wanted to see and visit during this week, so it was time to get started. To begin with, I familiarised myself with the city. I first returned to the river I had crossed the previous evening and that flows through Oslo. The river is called the Akerselva.

The Akerselva

Here, I also passed through a very modern part of Oslo near the train station.

Oslo, a detail

Although numerous bicycles may be seen in Oslo, the situation isn’t quite like in Denmark and Copenhagen. In addition, the city also has a very well-developed public transportation system.

Oslo, a detail

I wasn’t exactly wandering aimlessly here, as I was actually a woman on a mission with a specific task to complete. As I’ve mentioned before, I really enjoy coming up with a task for myself in a foreign city that isn’t just typical tourist sightseeing. It makes me feel more like I’m a local. That was the case in Oslo as well.

I had a situation similar to the one I had in Bern (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/fgs-6/). Several years ago, I had bought some Norwegian kroner in Belgrade, apparently with the idea and hope that I would one day travel to Norway. Time passed, I didn’t travel to Norway, while those banknotes were withdrawn from circulation, so they could no longer be used for payments. The only thing to do now was to exchange them for new banknotes at the central bank of Norway (Norges Bank). So, my task for that morning was first to go to the bank to take care of that and then continue on.

However, my path took me past the cathedral, so I thought it would be better to visit it right away rather than try to fit it into my schedule for the next day. That’s what I did.

Oslo Cathedral

To start with, I approached the church from the "back." Since this part of Oslo has a gentle slope, the church was built on a flattened area, so the back part of the churchyard is one floor higher than the street running alongside it. Between 1841 and 1895, along the streets surrounding the churchyard on three sides, a building with arcades was constructed, as seen in the previous photo. At the back of this building, behind the arcades, there is a staircase leading up to the rear part of the churchyard. This building is called Basarene or Oslo Bazaars.

Basarene in the street behind the Cathedral

Churchyard and the Cathedral

Oslo Cathedral (Domkirken) was built in the second half of the 17th century and was originally dedicated to Our Saviour. It was extensively restored in the 19th century and again in 1950, so little remains of the original structure.

Oslo Cathedral

Oslo Cathedral, a detail

The cathedral is very beautiful and I found its ground plan particularly interesting. Excluding the area beneath the bell tower that you pass through to enter the church, the cathedral has a floor plan in the shape of a Greek cross (equal length of the arms), which is what caught my attention. Typically, the transept is shorter than the nave of the church, but that is not the case here.

Oslo Cathedral, a detail

The ceiling is covered with frescoes that were created between 1936 and 1950.

Oslo Cathedral, a detail

The only elements that have survived from the original edifice are the pulpit and the altar. Both were carved in the 17th century.

Oslo Cathedral, a detail

The organ, located above the entrance to the nave of the church, dates back to the 18th century.

Oslo Cathedral, a detail

I didn’t stay here for long and then continued my walk towards the bank, while also getting to know some basic directions within the city. To start with, in front of the cathedral, there is the main square, known as Stortorvet.

Stortorvet

A little further along, I stopped again to glance back at the cathedral first and also to look down Karl Johans gt., which is a pedestrian street in this area and one of the main commercial streets in the city.

Oslo Cathedral

Karl Johans gt.

The street leading south from the cathedral is lined with beautiful buildings and I also began to notice the many cast sculptures I frequently encountered. In the end, my conclusion was that nowhere else had I seen more sculptures on city streets than in Oslo.

Oslo, a detail

Soon, I arrived at Norges Bank and quickly took care of what I needed to do. With the now usable banknotes, I happily exited onto the street and went to a bus stop, as my next destination was a bit far from the centre and required public transportation. I had already purchased a bus ticket from a store chain that sells them, using a credit card, so I was fully prepared. The bus arrived shortly and I boarded.

This entire time, from the moment I left the flat until I got on the bus, everything seemed to be going smoothly and effortlessly, including my orientation. I wondered if I might have lived here in a past life, making Oslo feel so familiar, or if it was just my travel experience and ability to adapt to new environments. Additionally, I had recently mastered using a geographic map on my phone when I don’t have internet access, while I’ve always been good with maps, so perhaps that was the secret.

Be as it may, I found a nice spot on the bus from where I could watch the parts of the city we were passing through. I was also intrigued when a group of children, apparently from a kindergarten, boarded at one of the stops accompanied with a couple of teachers. Since the seats were already occupied and there didn’t seem to be enough anyway, the teachers told the children to sit on the floor in a section where there was more space. I was surprised but just observed the whole situation. Norway is a very clean country, but the floors of their buses are as dirty as public transportation floors anywhere else. I think it's more about what is considered acceptable in the given society.

Along the way, I took a picture of a marina from the bus, as the sun was shining and I was near the sea. Specifically, Oslo is located at the end of the Oslofjord, which is a deep and narrow bay leading to the Skagerrak strait and further out to the North Sea.

Oslo, a detail

After about a 20-minute ride, I got off at the Bygdøy Peninsula, in front of the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History (Norsk Folkemuseum). The museum is considered one of the best in the city, especially for those interested in this type of exhibits, which I am.

Although there are several indoor sections of the museum where exhibits are displayed, the core of the museum is its "collection" in the open air. This collection consists of buildings, primarily houses and outbuildings from agricultural farms, but also other types of structures – totalling 160 historical buildings on display.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

First, you arrive at The Square, an area of the museum where visits start. There, I saw that I could tour one of the buildings as part of an organised tour that began at 1 p.m. (the building on the left in the previous photo), which gave me enough time to explore the open-air sections of the museum. However, I first stopped by another city house on The Square, which had a well-designed exhibition detailing the traditional life of the Sámi peoples, also known as Laplanders, who are most numerous in Norway. The Sámi traditionally inhabit the far north of Europe, including parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. (In Sweden and Finland, they live in the province and district of Lapland, hence the alternative name.)

When I say they "traditionally inhabit" the north of Europe, I mean that while they used to live only in traditional areas, it is now believed that there are more Sámi people, for example, in Oslo than in the north of Norway.

The Sámi are not a single nation, not only because they live in different countries, but also because they practice different religions (Protestantism and Orthodoxy) and speak different languages, though all belong to the same language group. Nevertheless, they have significant commonalities and therefore represent an indigenous native community. Regarding their traditional clothing, there are certain differences, but also numerous similarities in patterns and colours.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Of course, because of the icy northern climate, the Sámi have developed a way of life closely tied to reindeer. For starters, reindeer fur is exceptionally good at keeping warm, considering that winter temperatures can drop to as low as -50°C.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

The Sámi managed to live and survive in these conditions not only because they knew how to keep warm, but also because they traded reindeer hides and fur, as well as meat and fish, with people from southern territories or exchanged their goods for flour, sugar, cloth and kitchen utensils.

In addition to reindeer fur, they used all other parts of the animal – meat for food, hides for clothing and footwear, tendons for ropes and thread, and bones and antlers for useful tools and decorative items.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

Also, the Sámi milked reindeer, as their milk is highly nutritious. They even made cheese, butter and fermented dairy products with herbs, which they then sold. However, this required a lot of work, so over time, this practice was abandoned and trade shifted almost entirely to meat.

Some Sámi people traditionally lived in tents (goahti), which resemble Native American teepees. However, circumstances, especially after World War II, have changed significantly, leading to changes in their lifestyle as well.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, a detail

After finishing the visit to the exhibition on the Sámi people and their traditional way of life, I went outside to explore this somewhat atypical museum. First, I came across some larger houses that seemed a bit more urban. However, one of the most interesting exhibits was a wooden church, as one of my goals for this trip was to visit several such churches.

To start with, I passed by the main house from the Karterud farm dating back to the 18th century. It is said that the first potatoes in Norway were planted on this farm.

Main building from the Karterud farm

Nearby is the Parsonage from Leikanger, built in 1752, which comes with a (French) garden. Traditionally, priests were provided with a house and estate to ensure a regular income. Since the clergy had direct contact with the population, they also passed on to their congregations some European influences, such as gardening, by example.

Parsonage

There is the Christian Meeting House from the latter half of the 19th century nearby as well. It was used not only for gatherings of local residents, but also served as a school and church. However, since 1860, schools in Norway have been required to be housed in separate buildings.

Christian Meeting House

Needless to say, I won’t detail each of the nearly 200 exhibits in the museum, but at the start of my visit, I was particularly interested in certain exhibits. In this part of the museum, what intrigued me the most was a wooden church – the Stave Church from Gol.

Let me explain what this is. It is one of the now rare ancient wooden churches known as Stavkirke or Stavkyrke. These are essentially stave churches (stave being the name for wooden load-bearing columns). These churches were built during the Middle Ages across Northern Europe, with some dating back to around 800 years ago, but they are now mostly found in Norway. This was one of the most important things I wanted to see in this country, so it made sense to start with one that is easily accessible, which is this one at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History.

The Stave Church from Gol can be seen to the left

The stave church from Gol was built around 1200 and was to be replaced by a new church around 1880. Fortunately, the Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments purchased the church and donated it to the king, who then funded its relocation to the Bygdøy Peninsula in 1884. Naturally, the church needed to be restored, but the restoration was carried out according to what was presumed to have been its original appearance. Missing parts were modelled after the Borgund Stave Church.

This part of the museum also houses King Oscar II’s Collection. At that time, King Oscar II was both the King of Sweden (1872-1907) and the King of Norway (1872-1905). He took an interest not only in the church, but also financed the relocation of four other structures, as the idea was to demonstrate his genuine interest in Norway. Interestingly, this collection is considered the world’s first open-air museum.

One of these structures is the Summer Cabin from Støylsemne, from the 15th century, which was used in one of the summer mountain pasture farms in southern Norway. Another is the Storehouse from Rolstad, from the 14th century, which was actually used as a sleeping area.

Summer cabin from Støylsemne

Storehouse from Rolstad

But, in my opinion, the most beautiful structures are the Stave Church from Gol and the Storehouse from Berdal.

Stave Church from Gol and Storehouse from Berdal

First, I photographed the Storehouse from Berdal, where the king displayed items from the royal collection.

Storehouse from Berdal

Then, of course, I took some time to walk around the church and also peeped inside.

Stave Church from Gol

As I’ve mentioned earlier, this wooden church was built around 1200 in the town of Gol, which is located about 220 km northwest of Oslo. Approximately 150 years ago, it was relocated to its current location.

Stave Church from Gol

The portal on the west side (the main entrance to the church) is original, while the southern portal (the lateral side of the church) is a replica from 1884.

Stave Church from Gol, south portal

I only peeked into the church. Why? I’m not sure. Perhaps I was so enchanted that I thought I might "dirty" it by entering. It’s also possible that entry wasn’t physically possible and it was only open for viewing from the entrance. Honestly, I don’t remember.

Stave Church from Gol, the interior

It is presumed that during the time when the church was Catholic, it was decorated with images of saints. However, after the Reformation in 1537 and the transition to Protestantism, the details from the Catholic period were gradually removed and replaced. Nonetheless, the paintings preserved in the altar area, created in 1652, have survived. The church had insufficient lighting, so the photograph is blurry, but the figures can still be discerned.

Stave Church from Gol, the interior

Stave Church from Gol

The King Oscar II’s Collection also includes the Farmhouse from Hove, built in 1738, which is seen on the left in the following photograph. It was used for guests, making it larger and more luxurious than the other buildings on the farm.

King Oscar II’s Collection

Now I was ready to continue exploring the other historic buildings from rural Norway that can be seen at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History.