Walking through the city of Matera in the Basilicata region of southern Italy in September 2024, I came across the Sasso Caveoso district. I have already mentioned that Matera is home to a UNESCO World Heritage cultural property called ‘Sassi di Matera’ or ‘Stones of Matera.’ These are structures, mostly dwellings, but also churches and monasteries, which were made within caves and rocks – either by utilising and possibly expanding natural caves or by carving out desired spaces in the local limestone that is particularly easy to work with. It is also very important that the wide entrances to the caves were walled up.

In addition to the Sasso Caveoso district, another urban area of Matera contains such structures. It is Sasso Barisano. Between these two districts is a part of the city called Cività.

Now, from the plateau in front of the Church of San Pietro Caveoso, which I wrote about in the previous sequel, I began to climb the neighbouring barren rock, Monterrone, where again there were various interesting structures. In the next picture, you can see how the cave entrances were walled up, leaving appropriate openings for doors and windows.

Matera, a detail

As I climbed, I occasionally took breaks, during which I would look around and take pictures of the surroundings.

Matera, a detail

I was also fascinated by the rooftops, which I could see clearly from this height.

Matera, a detail

But, the view of some parts of Matera and the gorge of the Gravina river was still incredibly impressive and inspiring.

Matera, a detail

At the top of Monterrone, this bare rock that resembles a stone hill, there is also a church carved into the rock. It is the Church of Santa Maria di Idris.

Matera, a detail

As it can be seen in the photo, the front part of the church is walled up, while on the right-hand side, there is a smaller belfry.

Matera, a detail

The entrance to the church requires a fee, but that didn’t bother me; what did was the fact that photography was prohibited inside. So, I continued on. Walking across the plateau surrounding the church, I found it interesting to see how this plateau was created through human intervention between the rocks.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

I also had a good view of the Sasso Caveoso district, which I actually visited the least during my time in Matera.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Across that plateau, I reached its end, where there is a narrow passage leading to another terrace that offers a nice view of the gorge. However, by now, I was starting to get a bit tired of photographing the same scenery, so I turned around and headed back the way I came. I had planned to walk a bit more in this part of the city, but I thought it was best to return to the main street, so I wouldn't get lost in the narrow, winding alleys.

My decision to turn back coincided with some great events in the sky, so I had exceptionally good lighting and atmospheric effects. At this point, I didn’t mind photographing the same views or similar details.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

I also stopped at an ice-cream parlour in this part of the city to treat myself to a nice and delicious ice-cream. I took a short break there and then I went to a few more interesting spots within the Sasso Caveoso district.

I climbed up to another plateau, but this one was larger and very unique. However, I dealt with it a bit later.

Matera, a detail

For now, I enjoyed the absolutely beautiful view of the stone hill Monterrone, which is almost perfectly visible from here.

Matera, a detail

Almost enchanted, I simply walked around the plateau, looking for the best spot from which I could view Matera and Monterrone.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

And then I took a narrow path down to a lower street and another church carved into the rock. This time, it was the Church of Santa Lucia alle Malve.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

The situation here was the same as with the previous church – you can enter (with a ticket), but photography is not allowed. Well... I took advantage of the good position to capture parts of the Sasso Caveoso district, as well as the gorge of the Gravina river.

Matera, a detail

The Gravina river gorge

Now I returned to that large plateau, where the remains of a medieval cemetery are actually located. Everything here took place within the rocks, so the graves were "dug" into the stones. The finds, including human remains and grave goods, that were discovered here have been moved to the Domenico Ridola National Archaeological Museum, while the graves themselves have been, in a sense, "walled up."

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

After a short stop at the plateau, I returned to the main street and then decided to take my own route towards the cathedral, which is located at the top of the hill and the Cività district. Although the historic centre of Matera is not particularly large, the numerous winding streets can make distances deceptive. Additionally, I had taken a pain killer for the sciatica that I had some problems with, but I still felt discomfort in my back and right leg, so I didn't want to walk more than absolutely necessary.

I had already mentioned the water cisterns that were made in Matera in the same way as the buildings – by carving them into the rock. In the Sasso Caveoso district, there is a large underground cistern with a whole system of micro-tunnels and smaller reservoirs where rainwater was filtered and used to fill a large cistern, which is more than 15 m deep and entirely carved into the stone.

However, I only passed by the entrance to this cistern and continued walking slowly uphill. There were interesting details and views along the way, and I still had quite a bit of climbing ahead of me. Or maybe it just seemed like a lot.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

From a few spots, I had a wonderful view of the places I had already visited, so I once again captured the stone hill Monterrone with the Church of Santa Maria di Idris, while the bell tower of the Church of San Pietro Caveoso was also visible.

Matera, a detail

As I moved a little further, from another spot, I had an even better view. In the next picture, you can clearly see the Church of San Pietro Caveoso, Monterrone, as well as the Sasso Caveoso district.

Matera, a detail

I also individually captured some particularly interesting details.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

But, I also captured parts on the other side of the Gravina river gorge, where some visitors were walking along the ridge, while others had descended to see the caves that exist there, which certainly serve as a good example of the places where people in this region have been living since ancient times.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

The route I was taking towards the square where the cathedral is located led me to some stairs, so I continued up, but I took some photos along the way.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

And so, I finally reached the very top of the hill in the Cività district, where the cathedral in Matera is located. By the way, Cività is practically the elevation between the two main districts with stone/cave buildings – Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso.

Matera, a detail

All the walking, along with the beautiful sunny and warm day, made me thirsty. Since I knew I would be going downhill from here later, I decided to be a little mischievous and ordered a cocktail, with the perfect view to enjoy it.

Matera, a detail

As for the cathedral, it was built in the 13th century in the Apulian Romanesque style. The front façade, which is divided into three parts, features a prominent rose window, along with the main doorway. However, on the southern side, in addition to the elegant blind arcades, there are two side doorways that, it seems to me, are even more richly decorated than the main one. A part of the cathedral is also the tall bell tower with a square plan.

In addition to the changes in the foundation of the original church over time, the entire interior decoration was restored in the 18th century. However, I didn’t visit the interior, partly because of the cocktail, as my head was a little dizzy, so I decided to begin my descent from the top of Cività.

Matera, a detail

On the other hand, in front of the cathedral, there is a beautiful plateau/terrace with an outstanding view of Matera. That is something you can't miss, no matter how your head feels.

Matera, a detail

The view mainly encompasses the district called Sasso Barisano, which I have already mentioned and through which I first passed during my visit to Matera.

Matera, a detail

If you take a closer look at the previous photo, you can spot the terrace near Piazza Vittorio Veneto, from which I admired the view towards the cathedral. Now, I was simply facing the opposite direction.

Matera, a detail

And the view towards the Sant'Agostino complex and the gorge, enriched by the sky's events, was spectacular.

Matera, a detail

Now I was ready to return to the place where I started my tour of the Sassi di Matera or Stones of Matera, which was Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

Although it would have been nice to continue walking and exploring, I had to settle for the view from a staircase that led into the Sasso Caveoso district, while I took another passage, practically a street that directly connects the cathedral with the square that was my goal at this time.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

That street was also interesting. On one side, there are several spots offering a wonderful view of some parts of Matera, and I truly enjoyed the scenery.

Matera, a detail

On the other side of the street, where I was passing through, there were also beautiful sights and buildings.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

In the previous photo, you can see a part of the building from 1779 called Palazzo del Sedile, located on the square of the same name. It is the centre of cultural and administrative life in Matera. However, I didn’t get closer to it; instead, I decided to briefly descend the stairs through an arched passage directly across from the beginning of Piazza del Sedile.

Matera, a detail

These stairs led me to another spot where I once again enjoyed a beautiful view, this time with the cathedral as the main focus.

Matera, a detail

And this was where I finished my sightseeing. I was already tired, and my back and right leg were causing me problems due to the previously mentioned sciatica. Painkillers can only alleviate the discomfort for a limited period of time.

In any case, I soon descended to Piazza Vittorio Veneto, where I had to return to that terrace with the viewpoint. The cathedral now seemed far away.

Matera

Then, I walked around the area of the square a bit more and captured some details, including the street that led to the room I had rented during my stay in Matera. I was in a very good mood and satisfied with what I had seen, despite the fatigue and pain, so everything seemed incredibly beautiful to me.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

I decided to have dinner at a simple restaurant, more like a shop with a few tables arranged outside, all located in Piazza Ascanio Persio with the market in central Matera. My plan was to have burrata (a traditional cheese made in Apulia that I really love), but all the burrata delivered that day had already been sold. The exceptionally kind saleswoman recommended a cheese combination for me and I also ordered a glass of white wine.

While she poured the white wine for me, that kind saleswoman even posed for a photo.

Detail from Matera

I sat down and began sipping my wine, and soon the food arrived. For me, as a cheese lover, it was almost like being in heaven, although I still missed the burrata.

Dinner in Matera

Later, I returned to my room and packed my things slowly, as the next day I would continue my journey, heading back to the Apulia region. Here’s a map showing all the places I visited during these two weeks of September 2024 that I spent in Italy.

The next day, I wasn't in a particular rush, but I still had to keep an eye on the time since my plan was to return to Bari the same way I came to Matera – by train. I already knew which train I needed, meaning what time I should leave, but I arrived at the Matera Centrale station a little earlier because I needed to buy my ticket first.

However, there was a surprise waiting for me at the station. It was closed. I was a bit confused and then I saw a few other people standing there, so I started talking to them. It turned out that there was a strike that day and the local trains weren’t running.

Although I had the entire day to get to the small town of Trani on the Adriatic coast, which is about 100 km from Matera when travelling through Bari, this was quite an unpleasant surprise. Together with the other people who were stuck like me, I started considering other options. There is also an intercity coach and we hoped that maybe it was running, but, as we heard, the coach station was quite far from the train station, and I wasn’t too fond of the idea of walking there with a large backpack and sciatica, uncertain whether I’d be able to get to Bari that way.

In the end, a good solution was found, although I can’t quite remember who managed to organise it. A taxi driver with a minibus appeared and a few of us agreed to get to Bari that way. Of course, it cost a bit more than a train ticket, but beggars can't be choosers.

Unplanned way to transfer from Matera to Bari

At the station in Bari, I realised that the trains on the line I was interested in were actually running, so I decided to do something completely crazy.

Since the trains between Bari and Trani were operating, I didn’t need to worry about getting there, which gave me a "surplus of free time," as I couldn’t check into the room I rented in Trani until 3 pm anyway.

Some people may remember my story about the new jacket I forgot at a restaurant in Maglie that I really liked. On the other hand, it wasn’t particularly expensive and I bought it at a store that belongs to a chain selling sportswear. Since there’s a store like that in Bari, a pretty crazy idea came to my mind, but I love my crazy ideas. I decided to leave my backpacks at the luggage storage at Bari’s train station and take the city bus to the store to buy a new jacket. It was decided – and done.

Admittedly, that store was in the far suburbs of Bari and the bus ride took about an hour one way, but I had free time to kill, and in any case, I didn’t want to go sightseeing because I wanted to spare my back. Whether I sat at Bari's train station or in a city bus, well, it seemed like the same thing.

In the city bus in Bari

On the other hand, how many people do you know who went on a tour of some industrial zone in Bari? Probably very few.

Bari, a detail

So, the jacket was soon purchased and I returned to the Bari train station completely content, bought my ticket to Trani, grabbed my backpacks, and soon arrived at my next destination.

Matera is a city in the Italian region of Basilicata, known for its structures built within rock formations, whether originally using natural caves that were later expanded or structures directly carved into the soft limestone. This area is known as "Sassi di Matera" or "Stones of Matera." I came here during a couple of weeks I spent travelling through southern Italy in September 2024. The backbone of this trip was the Apulia region, but Matera is very close and significant enough that I absolutely wanted to visit and, of course, I did not regret it at all.

Here is a map showing where I went during this trip:

On the day I dedicated entirely to walking through Matera and its neighbourhoods filled with these rock structures, I eventually reached a fairly flat main street in a part of the city called Sasso Barisano. At one point, I took a coffee break at a lovely bar and then I continued on.

Very soon, I came across a place where you can enter (for an entrance fee) to see what these residential structures used to look like or how they were used. I mean, they are probably still alike today, but they are no longer used in the same way.

Matera, a detail

This house is furnished with old furniture and figures to illustrate as authentically as possible how people used to live in these spaces. This used to include various parts of the household and human activities, as well as the space where domestic animals were kept. This is how it all functioned until the mid-20th century when the population was displaced in order to secure the dwellings. A few decades later, the residents started to return, but this coincided with the development of tourism, so I suppose that was the main driving force.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Across from this house, there is another one with a souvenir shop, but you can also see models of different parts of Matera there. I must admit that I was more interested in the space itself than in the other details.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

A few dozen metres further, you come to an intersection and here the visitor must decide which direction to take. However, the next photo is interesting because it shows that cars (mostly smaller models) can also come here, while the city transportation operates in the form of minibuses. What I also noticed is that various hotels and guesthouses in the historic part of Matera offer transportation because it's not always easy to reach them, especially if visitors have larger pieces of luggage.

Matera, a detail

At this intersection, you can see another interesting feature – a public drinking fountain. I can report that the water is perfectly potable and does not cause any problems.

Matera, a detail

At the intersection, I decided to go left, but I also took a shot of the right-hand direction, which I planned to reach later on by taking a detour.

Matera, a detail

I also took a moment to look around and capture some interesting details, and then I started walking up the street that leads gently uphill.

Matera, a detail

There are picturesque details everywhere in the old part of Matera.

Matera, a detail

Although most of the buildings are old, you can see that there are also some houses that are quite new, though they are definitely less interesting compared to the older structures.

Matera, a detail

From the street I was walking along, I spotted the top of the bell tower of the Church of San Pietro Barisano, which was built into the rock. However, since I already planned to visit another church of this type, I decided not to climb here, but rather just take a few photos. Despite the relatively good condition of my back, I still had to be careful and measured. Additionally, in order to thoroughly explore Matera, it's necessary to stay at least two days, and three would probably be ideal. I didn’t have that much time.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

But, I took the opportunity to peek through some open doors into a space that looked like an art storage area.

Matera, a detail

Soon, I reached an extension of the street that offered a very beautiful view of the surroundings.

Matera

On the left-hand side, you can see Sant’Agostino complex that includes the church and the monastery. For the reasons mentioned earlier, it was enough for me to just take a photo of it from where I was standing. On the other hand, if someone has the time, from what I’ve read, it's worth going there because the square in front of the church is considered one of the best spots in the city for a great view.

Matera, a detail

I was content even with that extension beside the street I used in order to climb to a certain height, as I had a good view from there as well. For example, you can easily spot a building that stands alone and seems unrelated to the caves, but it still has an interesting appearance.

Matera, a detail

From there, I also saw the Cività district, where the cathedral stands out, particularly its bell tower at the top of the hill.

Matera, a detail

My plan now was to descend to the level of the street that separated these two hilltops (with the Sant’Antonio monastic complex and the Cività district), as I wanted to go around the hill where the Cività district is located. In addition to the church I wanted to visit there, walking along this street also allowed me to get a very good view of the Gravina river gorge.

Matera, a detail

Once I reached this street, I looked back once more and took a shot of a part of the city, as well as the Sant’Antonio monastic complex.

Matera, a detail

Interestingly, the Sant’Antonio monastic complex is built right at the top of the Gravina river gorge. This is most clearly seen from the terrace that serves as a viewpoint, located beside the street I was walking on now.

Matera, a detail

However, from there, you can also see how people use natural caves and canopies in order to dwell there or store their belongings.

Matera, a detail

The way these natural "holes" in the rocks are used and bricked up to create living spaces is even more visible on the other side of the street.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

A little further, I came across another terrace beside the street that serves as a viewpoint, so I took the opportunity to capture a photo of the Gravina river gorge, where the river makes a large bend.

The Gravina river gorge

On the other side of the street, I finally reached the church I wanted to visit. In fact, there are two churches here that are connected.

Matera, a detail

First, you enter the Church of the Madonna delle Virtù, which, according to some sources, dates back to the 12th century. Like all the churches carved into the rock, this one wasn't "built," but was entirely sculpted into the stone and then decorated.

Matera, a detail

In the central apse, there is a fresco of the Crucifixion with the Virgin Mary and St. John the Evangelist, which was likely painted in the 16th century.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Through a passage, you continue towards the monastery, the second church, and the cave dwellings.

Matera, a detail

First, I entered the area of the monastery.

Matera, a detail

The project of carving the monastery into the rock began in the 12th century and this was made possible by the fact that the limestone in the entire region is easy to work with. The original idea was actually for it to be a church, but in the 13th century, the space was transformed and it became home to nuns.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Over time, the space was eventually transformed into a wine cellar, which can be inferred from the wine press in the shape of a basin (in the centre of the next image).

Matera, a detail

Today, both in the previously seen church and here in the monastery, you can see displayed images made from majolica tiles. On the one hand, they depict various narrative scenes from the mythical history of Matera, and on the other, I assume, they advertise the local production of majolica items.

Matera, a detail

Now I continued towards the second church in the entire complex and in order to get there, I first reached an open passage on the upper floor. There, I got inspired to have some fun with photography – taking pictures of myself, but you can also see what everything looks from that angle.

Selfie in Matera

Me in Matera

Of course, I also took pictures of the surroundings, which truly look wonderful from this spot.

The Gravina river gorge

Some motifs do repeat in my photos, but I was genuinely thrilled and I usually express my delight during travels through photography.

Matera, a detail

The Gravina river gorge

On the other side of the gorge, you can see both natural caves and structures made by people. I will talk a bit more about the gorge and the surroundings of Matera later. For now, here's just one photo.

The Gravina river gorge, a detail

Then I went to visit the Church of San Nicola dei Greci, which is also carved into the rock, but this was done in the 10th century.

Matera, a detail

As it can be inferred from the name, this is a church with Eastern Christian influences, as well as an orientation typical of Greek Orthodox churches. It consists of a nave and an altar apse, with these two parts separated by a column. However, what is particularly interesting here is that the roof above the nave collapsed around the year 1700 and it is now an entirely open space (shown in the previous image).

Nevertheless, on the column itself, and even more so in the altar space, you can see remnants of beautiful frescoes.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

In one segment, you can see a very beautiful triptych depicting St. Nicholas, St. Barbara and St. Pantaleon from the 12th-13th century. The frescoes are done in accordance with the Byzantine tradition.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

In the adjacent area, you can also see two burial sites, as this rupestrian church was used in the Middle Ages as a burial place.

Matera, a detail

But even here, there are remains of some very lovely frescoes.

Matera, a detail

What stands out in particular is an exceptionally beautiful depiction of the Crucifixion from the 14th century.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Within this complex I was exploring, there is also a small garden with olive trees, while several burial sites are located there as well. However, I found it more interesting to explore some of the cave dwellings.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

When I returned to the street, I took a photo of the gorge from an angle that clearly shows the river flowing through it and then I continued on with my walk.

The Gravina river gorge

Not for long though, since I arrived at another spot from where there was a nice view of the Gravina river gorge.

The Gravina river gorge

Now I paid more attention to the opposite side of the gorge. Here, you can clearly see some of the bare rock faces, all of which belong to the plateau called Murgia (or Murge), characterised by exposed peaks and deep gorges. Some researchers believe that people began settling in the natural caves of this area as early as 12,000 years ago.

The Gravina river gorge

The Gravina river gorge

Today, visitors are encouraged to drive (if they have a car) to the other side of the gorge, and it’s also possible to go there on foot. Not only are there trails, but a bridge has also been built over the Gravina river. When I passed through here, there were relatively many people heading out for this walk. As for me, that will have to wait for another time.

The Gravina river gorge

While walking on the flat ground, I spotted a modern sculpture here and was quite pleased with my own current achievement.

Matera, a detail

Soon, my path took me past the remains of a former monastery and then I arrived at another great viewpoint.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

From here, you can get a very good view of the Sasso Caveoso district, which is also part of the cultural heritage "Sassi di Matera" or "Stones of Matera." In the next photo, you can clearly see how modern buildings are located at the top of the hill, while the old structures are on the slope of the gorge.

Matera, a detail

Amazed by the beauty of the landscape, I mostly focused on photographing the gorge and the interesting details that can be seen along and around it. In contrast, on the other side of the street, there are numerous houses scattered along the slope of the part of the city called Cività.

Matera, a detail

Although the cathedral is located at the top of the hill that forms the Cività district, which I had intended to visit, I decided to postpone that for now and continued along the same street towards another church.

Matera, a detail

The church in question is the Church of San Pietro Caveoso and, as the name suggests, I was here already in the area of the Sasso Caveoso district.

The Church of San Pietro Caveoso was originally built at the end of the 13th and beginning of the 14th century. However, over time, various changes were made to it (until the first half of the 20th century), including modifications and expansions of its foundation, as well as a baroque façade and bell tower constructed at the end of the 17th century. The church was reconsecrated in 1706.

Matera, a detail

A wooden ceiling was also done in the church in the second half of the 18th century.

Matera, a detail

From the terrace in front of the church, there is a wonderful view of both the Cività district and the Gravina river gorge.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Although this trip’s title mentions the region of Apulia (or Puglia, as the Italians call it), I spent a few days away from this part of Italy and ventured into another region — Basilicata. This is where the city of Matera is located, along with its two districts known as the Sassi, which, together with the local rock-hewn churches, are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

To get from Bari, where I set off, to Matera, you can travel by car, local train, or intercity bus. Taking the train was the most convenient option for me. If anyone decides to take the same route, it is worth bearing in mind that, even though the line connects two important cities, Bari and Matera, what is advertised as a direct service may well require you to change trains at one of the intermediate stations — in other words, get off one train and board another. That is just how things work locally, and, of course, there are practical reasons for it.

The train travelled quite slowly. The distance is just under 70 km, yet the journey takes around two hours. But I wasn’t in any hurry, so that wasn’t a problem.

Moreover, I used this time to track down the mobile phone number of the owner of the restaurant in Melfi where I had eaten the previous evening — and where I had left my new jacket behind. He was extremely kind and accommodating, and we tried to figure out whether there was some way he could send the jacket to me (I suggested some kind of express courier service, which I would pay for). However, there were a couple of problems: the weekend was approaching, express delivery services don’t exactly operate at lightning speed in southern Italy and I was due to return to Belgrade in just a few days. In the end, I told him to give the jacket to someone, as it was practically brand new and thanked him for his kindness, since it was clear he had really tried to help.

I wasn’t too worried about the jacket. Although I liked it and was rather fond of it, I hadn’t paid much for it, so there was no point making a big deal out of it.

Meanwhile, I simply relaxed and watched the landscapes pass by. Yes, although I hadn’t travelled far, the scenery was still different from what I had seen over the previous few days.

Basilicata Region, a detail

In Matera, I had booked a room just a few minutes from the very centre, which was both very important to me and extremely convenient. By the time I reached my room, my back and right leg were already hurting quite badly, so I first took some time to rest. Although I had brought some medication with me that could help relieve the pain, it wasn’t strong enough. So, after taking a break to rest, I went to a nearby pharmacy and explained my problem to the woman working there. She more or less confirmed what I had already suspected, then gave me a somewhat stronger painkiller, which really helped.

Still, I had no intention of overdoing it with the medication (I’m very conservative and cautious when it comes to taking medicines, and I only use them when I have no other choice). After returning to Belgrade, I continued taking them for a few more days, but I also started doing some exercises that I know work really well for me, and the problem soon disappeared.

But let me get back to Matera with my story.

After stopping by the pharmacy, I headed towards the city centre and soon arrived at Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

Matera, a detail

This square is a must-see in Matera, among other things because it is home to a terrace that serves as a viewpoint. And what a viewpoint it is! It offers an extraordinary view of the city’s famous districts, particularly Sasso Barisano.

Matera

In addition, the square provides access to the largest underground cistern in the city, excavated into the rock in the 19th century and known as the Palombaro Lungo. It is now open to visitors, and although it sounded interesting based on what I had read, I knew I wouldn’t be able to see everything worth exploring in Matera. This cistern was one of the places that would have to wait until my next visit. On the other hand, one of the passageways leading to the Sassi is also located here, but I explored that the following day.

Matera, a detail

For the time being, I went upstairs to a restaurant on the upper floor of a building in the square, where I had an excellent view of Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

Selfie in Matera

By the way, if anyone is wondering, after all that talk about my jacket, how come I’m wearing one in the photo, the answer is that it isn’t the one I left behind at the restaurant. The secret is that I bought two jackets in different colours. Perhaps that’s why I wasn’t too upset about having lost one of them in the meantime.

In any case, I hadn’t come to this restaurant to show off my jackets, but to have something to eat, and on this occasion that meant a wonderful pizza.

Dinner in Matera

Pizza goes best with beer and beer is even better when it’s local. This one was even a large serving — 620 ml! Everything was just to my liking.

Part of the dinner in Matera

As I leisurely enjoyed my pizza and sipped my beer, with the day slowly drawing to a close, I had an excellent view of Matera and the square.

Matera

Matera, a detail

By the time I had finished eating, the night had already fallen and the moon was beginning to rise above the horizon.

Matera at night

I went down to the square, intending to return to the terrace with its lovely view of Sasso Barisano. By the way, the way to the terrace is through the arches on the right-hand side of the next photo, directly beneath the moon.

Matera at night

Right next to the passageway leading to the terrace stands the small Church of Mater Domini (Chiesa di Mater Domini), built in 1680.

Matera at night

By the time I reached the terrace and got into position to take a photo, the full moon had emerged from behind the clouds and the scene was magical.

Matera at night

Matera at night

I also took a photo of Matera Cathedral, which I intended to visit the following day.

Matera at night

Now, however, I very sensibly decided to take just one more walk around the square, then return to my room and give my body a chance to get some proper rest before the following day.

Matera at night

Matera at night

I slept reasonably well that night, so I set off to explore Matera in a reasonably good mood. Still, I needed to have some breakfast first, so I headed to a nearby market, where there are a couple of small restaurants serving simple but excellent food. I wasn’t disappointed.

Matera, a detail

Breakfast in Matera

I also took a little stroll around the market, just to see what was on offer, and then headed to Piazza Vittorio Veneto.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

One of the most striking buildings in the square is Palazzo dell’Annunziata, built in 1735.

Matera, a detail

On the opposite side, tucked away in a corner of the irregularly shaped square, stands the Romanesque Church of Saint Dominic (Chiesa di San Domenico). It was built in 1230 as part of a monastery.

Matera, a detail

Now, in the daylight, I took a closer look at the 17th-century Baroque Church of Mater Domini once again.

Matera, a detail

What I found interesting here was that the bell tower does not actually belong to this church. Instead, it is a remnant of the Church of the Holy Spirit (Santo Spirito), which was carved into the rock one level below, underground. The external staircase leading up to the bell tower’s loggia can also be clearly seen in the previous photo.

However, there is no need for visitors to climb the bell tower, as there is an arcade right next to it that leads out onto the terrace, where they can enjoy a wonderful view of Matera’s old town.

Matera, a detail

Matera

I have already mentioned that Matera is located in the southern Italian region of Basilicata. The city is famous for preserving an intact example of a cave settlement. From the outside, the houses visible in the previous photograph certainly date from the 20th century, but the construction methods and the way the terrain is used are essentially the same as those employed in late prehistoric times. After all, the earliest inhabited areas in this region date back to the Palaeolithic, or Old Stone Age. The earliest dwellings in the settlement were simple caves whose entrances were enclosed by walls, thus protecting their inhabitants from external influences, while later settlements beautifully illustrate significant stages in human history. It is important to note that the first dwellings were natural caves in which people lived, but over time, the inhabitants began to enlarge these caves and adapt them to their needs.

All of this will become clearer as I continue with the story and the photographs.

In any case, owing to the uniqueness of the place and its architecture, Matera has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List under the name “The Sassi and the Park of the Rupestrian Churches of Matera.”

This World Heritage Site encompasses a whole range of houses, churches, monasteries, and hermitages built into caves across the Murge plateau. The site covers an area of 1,016 hectares and includes more than a thousand dwellings, as well as a large number of workshops and shops. In other words, the first settlements date back to the Palaeolithic, while habitation continued uninterrupted right up to the present day — or, more precisely, until the mid-20th century. In the 1950s, the entire population of the Sassi was relocated. The official reason was to improve sanitary conditions and renovate the old districts. However, tourism was already beginning to take off across Italy, so I can’t help feeling that this was the main reason people started returning from the 1980s onwards, gradually restoring the traditional use and function of the buildings. Today, tourism is the main activity here, while the number of visitors continues to grow. Admittedly, there are seasonal fluctuations, but Matera is nevertheless considered one of the must-see destinations in (southern) Italy.

In September 2024, I was one of those visitors. And I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Selfie in Matera

I have already mentioned the term “Sasso,” or “Sassi” in the plural. Although “sasso” means “stone,” which is why the expression “Sassi di Matera” (the Stones of Matera) is also often used, the city actually has two historic districts: Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso. In addition to these, there is the Cività district, which includes the cathedral and was the original urban settlement. In the previous photograph, behind me, you can see parts of Sasso Barisano and Cività.

My sightseeing plan took me through Sasso Barisano first, and the easiest way to get there was to descend one level from Piazza Vittorio Veneto. From there, you can visit the previously mentioned Palombaro Lungo cistern, as well as walk through the remains of the also previously mentioned Church of the Holy Spirit, or Santo Spirito.

Matera, a detail

As for the water cistern, it is worth explaining that the municipality of Matera supplied drinking water to the population through several public fountains and five large public cisterns that collected spring water. In addition, there were hundreds of private cisterns used to collect rainwater for other purposes besides drinking.

The Palombaro Lungo, which can be visited here, is the largest of these public cisterns. It was excavated into the rock during the 16th century and subsequently enlarged on several occasions, joining together several caves that had previously been used for other purposes. The cistern has a capacity of five million litres, it is 16 m deep and measures 50 m in length.

So, I didn’t visit the cistern (perhaps I should have), but instead headed towards the passageway through the remains of the Church of Santo Spirito.

Matera, a detail

The rock-hewn Church of Santo Spirito is believed to date back to the 8th or 9th century. This early church was remodelled in the late 15th and early 16th centuries, when it acquired a three-aisled layout. It was eventually abandoned, but was restored once again in the second half of the 17th century. In the second half of the 19th century, however, public health concerns led to the destruction of the church’s façade and one of its side aisles, while part of the structure was also walled up.

Today, visitors can pass through here to enter the Sasso Barisano district, while along the way they can see the modest remains of the former church.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Once you come out here, you’ll find a spot offering a lovely view of Matera’s historic districts. To begin with, you need to walk down a few steps to reach the streets where the occasional car passes through, although this is quite rare.

Matera

Matera

As soon as I entered this area, I began noticing all sorts of details, including one feature that reminded me of the latrines found in medieval castles. I don’t know what this was actually used for, but that was the association it brought to mind.

Matera, a detail

I walked a little further down and when I looked back, I could see the terrace at the level of Piazza Vittorio Veneto, where I had already been and which offers a wonderful view, as well as a smaller terrace reached by passing through the remains of the Church of Santo Spirito.

Matera, a detail

Almost immediately, I came across some kind of gallery, but I only took a quick look inside, mainly to get a better idea of what to expect here in terms of the “construction” of dwellings.

Matera, a detail

From the outside, everything looked both overcrowded and impressive.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Off to one side, I spotted a closed metal gate and two openings. Naturally, I had to go over and take a peek.

Matera, a detail

There was nothing spectacular to see, but I’m glad I peered inside.

Matera, a detail

Soon I reached the lower parts of Sasso Barisano, from where I could see Matera Cathedral, while the surrounding scenery remained picturesque.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

At times, I simply took photos of the streets I was walking through, while in other places I stopped to examine the details. I found it particularly interesting to see how rainwater was channelled (I assume) towards the vertical downpipe visible in the next photograph.

Matera, a detail

But, various other details were just as picturesque.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

Some of the houses here appear to be used as private residences, while others serve as hotels and guesthouses. There are also restaurants, bars and shops. Buildings used for these purposes tend to be more elaborately decorated, although this is not always the case.

Matera, a detail

Matera, a detail

By this point, I was already well along one of the main streets in Sasso Barisano, Via Fiorentini, where I soon stopped for a nice cup of coffee and a little rest.

Matera, a detail

The previous sequel of my travelogue tells the story of a trip through the Italian region of Apulia in September 2024, and I ended it by mentioning that I left the car I rented for one day in a parking lot in the town of Santa Maria di Leuca – almost the first one I came across. I thought that from there I could easily go on foot and take a little walk around this place at the very southern tip of the Salento peninsula.

Anyway, here's a map where you can see exactly where this happened:

And indeed, that's exactly how I started. I first headed towards the Santa Maria di Leuca lighthouse, which I also mentioned in the previous sequel.

Along the way, I had the chance to take a look at the large marina in this town.

Santa Maria di Leuca, a detail

I even walked a few hundred metres, but then I changed my mind, took another photo of the marina, and then I started heading back.

Santa Maria di Leuca, a detail

Namely, a few days earlier, I had suddenly bent down while carrying a large backpack on my back, and that caused me some trouble – I probably triggered some kind of sciatica. On the first day when this happened, I could barely walk, but now I was much more mobile, though there was still a constant mild pain or at least a sense of discomfort.

That day, I managed quite well, but I started feeling the pain a little more, so I concluded that it was pointless to keep walking towards the lighthouse I had already seen (and photographed), and the additional details didn’t really interest me.

Admittedly, near this lighthouse, which is the second most important one in Italy, there is also the Basilica of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae, meaning the church dedicated to St. Mary (after whom the town was named), with the addition that means "the end of the land." The basilica was built between 1720 and 1755.

Despite all this, it didn’t seem like a strong enough reason to continue, so I simply turned around and started heading back.

I also kept in mind that I had parked the car in a rather inconvenient parking lot that was still far from the centre, so I went back for the car and drove it down to the coast. My plan was to at least take a short walk there, which I did.

Santa Maria di Leuca, a detail

The coast seemed quite sleepy, with not many people around, and the main reason for that was definitely the weather. It wasn't cold, but the wind was blowing and dark clouds hinting at rain covered part of the sky.

Santa Maria di Leuca, a detail

I took a selfie on a small bridge leading to the sea and then I went to a bar where I had a coffee. I needed something to wake me up a bit and also to rest my back, spine, and legs.

Selfie in Santa Maria di Leuca

After a nice break, I headed back to the car, took a few more shots of the promenade by the sea, and then I continued on my way.

Santa Maria di Leuca, a detail

My next destination was the city of Gallipoli on the western coast of the Salento peninsula, which is less than 50 km from Santa Maria di Leuca.

Once again, the road took me past stone retaining walls and although these were probably made with the help of modern machinery, this still struck me as impressive.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

In addition, I was somewhat concerned about the dark clouds covering the sky in the direction I was driving, but in the end, with a lot of luck, I managed to pass through without rain (until later in the evening, but by then it wasn’t as important to me).

Salento Peninsula, a detail

Gallipoli is a city on the coast of the Ionian Sea, consisting of an old town built on an island located close to the mainland, and a newer part of the city on the mainland. What’s particularly interesting is that these two parts are connected by a bridge built in the 16th century.

My route took me to one of the main streets in the new part, Corso Roma, which leads directly to the bridge and the old town. Having learned from my experience in Santa Maria di Leuca, I drove almost to the end of the street, in order not to have to walk as much. Luckily, I found a good parking spot, so I could calmly start my exploration.

However, my back and right side were hurting quite a lot, and it was clear that this would be a quick tour. To begin with, I reached the very end of the "peninsula" where the new part of the city is located and from there, I had a beautiful view of both the old town and the bridge connecting the two parts of Gallipoli.

Gallipoli

The dark clouds were creating a dramatic scene in the sky and it was really interesting to watch them.

Gallipoli

On the other hand, just as I was about to cross the bridge, a ray of sunlight managed to break through the clouds.

Gallipoli, a detail

I can immediately say that I didn’t pay much attention to all the interesting places in the city, let alone visit or photograph them. To tell the truth, due to the pain and discomfort while walking, I just wasn’t in the mood. The pain wasn’t strong enough to cause serious problems, but I was concerned that it might get worse and that worry really affected my mood. On the other hand, I felt that since I had made it this far, I should at least make a little effort. Just a little. I think you can easily spend more time in Gallipoli than I did, but it is what it is...

In any case, already in these first photos published here, one of the notable sites can be seen, and that is the Gallipoli Castle built by the Byzantines in the 13th century.

Gallipoli, a detail

I decided not to enter the old town directly, but rather to walk around a bit first, so I could get a better impression of the place. From a small elevation where the street gently ascends, I had a great view of both the newer part of Gallipoli and the harbour area.

Gallipoli, a detail

Still, at this point, I was most interested in the old part of Gallipoli and there are certainly various picturesque houses there, including a local church.

Gallipoli, a detail

Soon, I found myself in the narrow streets of old Gallipoli, while the sights there were very picturesque and pretty.

Gallipoli, a detail

Gallipoli, a detail

Gallipoli, a detail

Gallipoli, a detail

Gallipoli, a detail

I eventually reached the main church in the city, the Gallipoli Cathedral, which is dedicated to Saint Agatha of Sicily. Officially, it is called the Co-Cathedral Basilica of Saint Agatha the Virgin.

Gallipoli, a detail

The construction of this Baroque church began in 1629 and was completed in 1696. The facade of the church is very beautiful and richly decorated.

Gallipoli, a detail

Here I decided not to visit anything else in Gallipoli and just slowly head back to the car. By the way, just a few hundred metres away, but in the opposite direction from the one I took, there is quite a beautiful city beach – Spiaggia della Purità, which often appears in pictures advertising the city.

However, I reached the southern side of the Gallipoli Castle and then continued on the street that runs along the western side of the citadel.

Gallipoli, a detail

Gallipoli, a detail

This street eventually turns towards the bridge and this was where I headed.

Gallipoli, a detail

Soon enough I got into the car and continued on my way. It was clear that sitting and resting was pleasant, but I had one more visit planned, though I knew it wouldn't take long. The destination was the town of Galatina in the centre of the Salento peninsula. Although the optimal distance between these two cities is around 23 km, the navigation confused me in one part, so in the end, I drove a few extra kilometres, but it didn’t bother me. What mattered was that I found a good parking spot very close to the church I wanted to visit. It was the Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria (Basilica di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria).

Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria

Although this church was built between 1383 and 1391, and is undeniably Romanesque in its architectural style, you can also see Gothic, Byzantine and Norman influences. The front facade especially highlights the exceptionally beautiful and richly decorated portal, as well as the rose window.

The construction of the church was commissioned by Raimondo Orsini del Balzo (c. 1350-55 – 1406). I probably wouldn’t even mention him if I hadn’t read that he ordered the church’s construction and its dedication to St. Catherine after returning from Mount Sinai and visiting the Monastery of St. Catherine there (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/egypt-2008/).

What is particularly interesting is the legend that, at the end of his stay on Mount Sinai, while kissing the hand of the saint (of course, as part of the relics), Raimondo Orsini del Balzo allegedly bit off one of her fingers and brought it back to Italy. Supposedly, these sacred relics are kept in a silver reliquary housed in the treasury of this church.

The interior of the church consists of a main nave and two side aisles on either side. There are also gently pointed arches on the walls separating the naves, ribbed cross vaults in the main nave, lower semi-domed vaults in the side aisles, and extremely beautiful capitals on the columns... But what particularly impressed me here were the frescoes, which were created in the first half of the 15th century. The richness of their execution is absolutely extraordinary. The impression is exceptional and this is one of the churches that I believe must be visited if you're travelling to southern Italy.

Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, a detail

Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, a detail

Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, a detail

Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, a detail

Right next to the basilica is the cloister, which is also frescoed and was fully reconstructed between the 16th and 17th centuries.

Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, a detail

Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, a detail

Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, a detail

Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, a detail

As for the town of Galatina, you can also see the beautiful Baroque Church of Saints Peter and Paul, with its richly decorated facade, built in 1633 on the foundations of a Greek church. When you search for Galatina online, this church usually appears in photographs, rather than the Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria. However, I was no longer in the mood to walk and explore, so I simply returned to the car and headed back towards Maglie.

After all, I needed to return the rented car and then walk about half an hour to get to the room where I was staying in the city. But once I had done all that, I was happy to lie down and relax my back.

However, I couldn’t stay in that position for too long. I had already had lunch and it was time to eat something again.

I found a restaurant nearby and headed there. As it turned out, it was a spectacularly good experience. But first, I had to hurry a bit, as the rain had started pouring down heavily. Fortunately, I had that jacket I had bought in Lecce.

Maglie, a detail

To begin with, I had a beer, as I was planning just to nibble on something. But this was a special place and even the beer wasn’t served in typical glasses, although it was certainly very tasty.

Part of the dinner experience in Maglie

I chose a dish myself, while the restaurant owner recommended others, and there was definitely a lot of food. In the end, I managed to eat almost everything. I don’t regret it – it was truly extraordinary.

Part of the dinner experience in Maglie

As I leisurely finished my dinner, the rain stopped. I slowly made my way back to the room, where I peacefully and contentedly went to sleep.

Maglie, a detail

The next morning, I woke up feeling great, my back and leg weren’t bothering me too much. I packed up my things and then realised something was missing. It was my new jacket and I quickly understood that I had forgotten it in the restaurant where I had eaten the previous evening. There was nothing I could do since it was still early in the morning and the restaurant certainly wasn’t open at that time of day.

Luckily, I was greeted by a beautifully sunny day, so I didn’t need the jacket after all. But the weather was so nice and inspiring that I took a few more photos of the city's landmarks as I passed by them.

Church di Santa Maria delle Grazie in Maglie

Colonna della Madonna delle Grazie column

In order to reach my next destination, the city of Matera in the Basilicata region, I had to take a train to Lecce first, and then to Bari. There, I practically changed train stations and continued my journey on a local train to Matera.

In the beginning, the train from Maglie passed by olive groves and stone fences arranged in neat rows, and once again, I was impressed (by the stone fences, not the olive trees).

Salento Peninsula, a detail

Salento Peninsula, a detail

In Lecce, I had enough time to buy a coffee and enjoy it while sitting at one of the tables arranged on the plaza in front of the train station. As I was sipping my coffee, a group of cyclists, who had come here by train, were preparing to start their ride. Cycling is extremely popular in Italy and all trains have designated spaces where bicycles can be brought inside and transported to the desired destination.

What I particularly liked in this situation was that all the cyclists seemed (to me) older than I was. It always makes me happy to see people in their "mature years" who are still full of life and energy.

Scene in front of the Lecce railway station

But, I’m not too bad for my age either. Although I’ve had more or less problems with my back, spine and right leg (the previously mentioned self-diagnosed sciatica) during this trip, I still bravely and energetically carried most of my luggage on my back, with the rest in front of me. To be honest, I didn’t really have any other choice.

Self-portrait at the train station in Lecce

So, from Lecce, I took the train to Bari and there I had to switch to the nearby train station (literally buildings next to each other, with the tracks initially running in parallel) because the other station serves local lines, including the one to the city of Matera.

It was good that I had already been to Bari before and during that stay, I had checked exactly where the other train station was and where to buy tickets, as now I appreciated moving as little as possible considering the weight of my luggage and the condition of my back.

And so, with my ticket purchased, I was able to sit down and calmly wait for the train to Matera.

When I returned from Otranto to Maglie, it was still not night and on the way from the train station to my room, I passed by a couple of notable places in this small town once again.

Maglie, a detail

Not only did the path lead me past the column called Colonna della Madonna delle Grazie, but both important churches were open, so I went inside briefly so as not to disturb the worshippers.

The first one was the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

Church di Santa Maria delle Grazie in Maglie

Church di Santa Maria delle Grazie in Maglie

The second one was the cathedral. By the way, I had already photographed both of these churches during the day (as can be seen in the previous part of the travelogue), but I was also curious to see what they looked like at night.

Maglie Cathedral

Maglie Cathedral, a detail

I also took a walk to the very centre, where the square with the town hall building is located.

Maglie, a detail

In the immediate vicinity, there are also several bars and smaller restaurants, so I sat down in one to pleasantly end this day, which I managed quite well considering the problems with my spine, back and right leg. The pain, or rather discomfort, was present the entire time, but it didn't prevent me from moving around.

Maglie, a detail

By the way, it was Monday and it seemed that most local restaurants were closed, so I didn’t have much of a choice, but in the end, I was content.

After a pleasant relaxation, I headed towards my room and along the way I took a few shots of the relatively sleepy Maglie.

Maglie, a detail

Maglie, a detail

Since I had realised in the meantime that by mid-September, the south of Italy is already in the off-season and I wouldn't be able to visit anything relying on public transport, I managed, with a bit of luck, to arrange with the owner of the extremely beautiful room in the centre of Maglie where I had been staying for a couple of days to rent a car for one day. In fact, she recommended a local agency and through an app I arranged when I would pick up the car the following day.

First, I went to a bar that was also owned by that charming girl who had rented me the room, since I had breakfast there and that's how we got to know each other. These days, renting rooms through apps (unless it's in a proper hotel) usually goes without any real human contact – you get instructions on how to retrieve the key, while and at the end of the stay you leave the key in the same place you found it, and that's it. Payment is made by card and no one actually meets anyone.

That wasn’t the case this time and it was a nice brief chat before I started walking to the car agency, which was about a half-hour walk away.

Although most of the walk was quite boring since I passed through the local "industrial zone" (Maglie is a small town with around 15,000 inhabitants, so even the "industrial zone" is not large), in the beginning, I did manage to capture a lovely square and park – Piazza Francesco Capece.

Maglie, a detail

I then just kept going straight and eventually reached the agency. There, a young and very friendly girl was working, so I chatted with her a bit, in addition to signing the rental agreement for the car. She also recommended that I stop by Castro, which became my first destination.

However, first, here’s a map showing the places I went to during this trip through southern Italy in September 2024:

As can be seen from the previous map, if the Salento peninsula is the "heel" of the Italian "boot," then Castro is located in the middle of the "top piece”.

The entire eastern coast of the Salento peninsula – from Otranto, which is about 23 km north of Castro, to the town of Santa Maria di Leuca, at the southernmost point, about 30 km south of Castro – was declared a Regional Park in 2006: Costa Otranto - Santa Maria di Leuca e Bosco di Tricase. The reason for this was the intention to protect architectural assets, as well as important plant and animal species.

As for Castro, the very name of the town suggests that there is some kind of fortress, so I was sure I would have something to explore there. However, at first, I needed to find a place to park the car.

I wasn’t sure if my choice of the parking spot was a good one, so I asked some locals nearby and they confirmed that everything was fine and that I could safely leave the car there. However, this also meant I had to climb a bit in order to reach the historical centre. Still, it was easier than trying to drive into the historical centre itself, where I wasn’t sure if I could find a parking lot or where to park the car.

Castro, a detail

Although I didn’t have much information about the town itself, I did see a sign at one point indicating the direction of a walking path along the "Aragonese ramparts." I decided to head in that direction first.

This walking path practically goes around the entire historical centre and within it is the Aragonese Castle from the 12th-13th century, built on the remains of a Byzantine fortification.

Castro, a detail

Castro, a detail

Since the historical centre is located on an elevated area, from one spot, I had a pretty beautiful view of the coastline and parts of the town that are situated lower.

Castro, a detail

I continued walking along the path around the historical centre and at one point it led me directly to the historical centre and one of its most significant buildings.

Castro, a detail

It was the Church of the Annunciation, which I first approached from the front, but the entrance there was closed.

Church of the Annunciation in Castro

So, I went to the square that faces the side of the church. The church is much more visible from there and the entrance is located on that side.

Church of the Annunciation in Castro

The Church of the Annunciation in Castro was built in 1171, but there was an earlier Byzantine church from the 9th-10th century on the same site. The remains of that Byzantine basilica can be seen from the direction of the square and they are attached to the side of the Church of the Annunciation.

Church of the Annunciation in Castro, a detail

Traces of frescoes, a part of the remains of the Byzantine basilica, can also be seen.

Church of the Annunciation in Castro, a detail

I went inside the church and took a little walk around, paying attention to some of the details.

Church of the Annunciation in Castro, a detail

Church of the Annunciation in Castro, a detail

Now I headed back towards the entrance to the historical centre of Castro, which is essentially a pedestrian area and that’s how I came to another beautiful square.

Castro, a detail

There is also a viewpoint here from which you can see the eastern and northern parts of the coastline, but at that moment, I was more interested in photographing the flowers growing within the old ramparts. I think this is a type of bellflower – Campanula pugliese.

Castro, a detail

As for the walls and the remains of the medieval citadel, today the archaeological museum is located there, but my plan wasn't to stop by that place.

Castro, a detail

I found it more interesting to capture again the view towards the south-eastern coast of the Salento peninsula and parts of the town of Castro.

Castro and parts of the Salento Peninsula

In order to avoid returning to the car using the same streets of Castro I had climbed, which weren't particularly interesting, and since I had noticed some stairs during my walk along the path around the historical centre of the town that led in the direction I wanted, I decided to head towards them. This way, I descended to the spot where I had parked the car, while this route was definitely much more picturesque.

Castro, a detail

Now I could continue on, driving further south along the Salento coast.

Since there were very few cars on the road, I managed to stop safely at one spot to quickly capture a scene. It was an olive grove growing on a slope, with the flat areas of land from which the olive trees rise being secured, that is, reinforced with stacked stones.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

I didn’t see this at just one spot; such scenes are quite a common sight along the road. Once again, I couldn’t shake the impression that the people here are incredibly hardworking – they have to move the stones to the right place, even if the stones are on a nearby slope or meadow, and then arrange them meaningfully.

On the other side of the road, I could see the rocky coastline of the currently turbulent Ionian Sea.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

By chance, I also noticed someone sitting on the rocks, gazing into the distance. I hope they were simply enjoying the natural elements, although, for my taste, there was too much wind to sit by the sea for a long time.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

Although the coastline here is rocky, it should be mentioned that on the "inner side of the heel," that is, on the western coast of the Salento peninsula, there are quite beautiful sandy beaches (I’m speaking from the photos I’ve seen and what I’ve read about it). The town of Porto Cesareo is especially known for its clear waters and sandy beaches. However, since it was already the second half of September and the temperature wasn’t very high, coupled with the strong wind blowing, I knew I definitely wouldn't be going to the beach, so the idea of heading to Porto Cesareo didn’t appeal to me.

There is also a small sandy beach in a town I first just passed through, then turned back to and briefly stopped in order to take a few photos. It’s a little village – Tricase Porto.

I hadn’t planned on stopping here at all and my guidebooks didn’t mention Tricase Porto, but the main road that runs along the coast from Otranto to Santa Maria di Leuca, which I was driving on, took me through this place and I saw a few beautiful scenes in the centre. I wanted to stop briefly, maybe even have lunch, but I couldn’t find a free spot to park the car (it seemed like I had unexpectedly entered a bit of a crowd). For some reason, there were signs indicating specific routes to follow, so I actually had to exit the town and only then did I return via another route, which made me take quite a large detour.

It didn’t bother me, but I still had trouble finding a free parking spot. So, I parked in a rather questionable place, but since my plan was to stay there for just a few minutes, I thought there wouldn’t be any issues. And there weren’t.

On the other hand, from the street that runs along the sea, I could see a parking lot that was completely empty. It struck me as both strange and suspicious, in the sense that all the parking spots around the neighbourhood were taken, yet here there were as many free spots as one could wish for. At the same time, I had no intention of dealing with the parking system in southern Italy and going towards the signs and study them.

Tricase Porto, a detail

In the entire region, there are a number of caves accessible from the sea, as well as narrow and deep inlets. Tricase Porto is known as a place with a harbour that dates back to the 15th century, created in one of these bays, though the harbour has since been slightly expanded.

Tricase Porto, a detail

I walked a few hundred metres along the harbour and I thought that there were probably good restaurants and bars here, which is why people had gathered in larger numbers. In any case, I captured another part of the harbour, then quickly headed back to the car. Locals might be able to park wherever and however they feel like, but I certainly can’t. At least not for long and while staying calm and relaxed in the meantime.

Tricase Porto, a detail

Then I got into my rented car and continued on.

In this part of my tour, I started encountering people running along the road, so I assumed it was some kind of local marathon or event. As I’ve mentioned, there weren’t many cars on the road, so I just needed to be mindful when I had to overtake these runners. In the end, we all made it through just fine.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

About 12.5 km further, at the Ponte Ciolo bridge, I finally found a place where I could legally park and also take a break for lunch.

The bridge was built during the 1960s and it crosses an inlet.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

Salento Peninsula, a detail

Although I found the whole place quite interesting and one can also cross the bridge on foot, I decided to go and have something to eat first. I chose homemade pasta with mussels, clams, shrimp and squid. It was delicious.

Lunch at the Salento Peninsula

After the nice lunch, I went for a walk across the bridge. The view of the open sea was truly fascinating, especially considering the dramatic waves.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

Here, you can clearly see how the sea has created the inlet into the land, while in the next photo, you can also see one of the several caves in this area. From what I’ve managed to find out, this is the Grotta Grande del Ciolo.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

But it was also interesting to return along the other side of the bridge, as there are some details visible there as well.

There are stairs that descend to the Ciolo sandy beach, but it was clear that no one was swimming that day.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

You can also see that the stairs from the beach lead uphill and, from what I’ve read, there is a small cave there, as well as an area for rock climbing, for those who are interested. What is definitely a popular activity in this region is hiking and there are several designated trails throughout the area.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

The next place where I planned to take a break was the town of Santa Maria di Leuca, located at the southernmost tip of the Salento peninsula. I still had just under 10 km to go and along the way I stopped briefly a couple of times in order to take more photos of stone-built structures. I was really impressed.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

Salento Peninsula, a detail

As a sign that I was getting closer to my next destination, from one spot, I had a nice view of the lighthouse at the Cape of Santa Maria di Leuca. I briefly pulled over to the side of the road, then dashed to the other side in order to take a photo. As for traffic, there was no one on the road, so this "action" was made easier for me.

Salento Peninsula, a detail

This cape is located at the southernmost tip of the Salento peninsula and the construction of the lighthouse began in 1864. The lighthouse became operational two years later. It stands 47 m tall and is positioned at an elevation of 102 m above sea level. Its light can be seen from a distance of 44 km.

I didn’t drive all the way to the lighthouse itself; instead, I continued further and parked my car in a parking area that I came across, with the intention of walking from there.

Although I had problems with back pain and my right leg as a result of bending down suddenly while carrying a large backpack, all of that was now much less severe than the previous afternoon, so I continued with my leisurely walk around Lecce and the exploring of this exceptionally beautiful city in southern Italy.

As a reminder, here’s a map showing all the places I visited during my stay in the Apulia region and its surroundings in September 2024.

I have already mentioned in the previous part of the story about this trip that Lecce is known as the "Florence of the South" or the "Baroque Florence" because of the large number of beautiful buildings constructed in the Baroque style. Some of these buildings are better-known, such as churches or palaces, but for many others, it’s not easy to find an official name (if one even exists). This doesn't mean that these lesser-known buildings are necessarily less beautiful and visually appealing, or that they aren't beautifully decorated.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

However, the backbone of my sightseeing were churches, such as the Church of Santa Maria della Provvidenza, which was built in the early 18th century. It was once connected to a monastery, but the monastery was demolished in the first half of the 19th century.

Lecce, a detail

I continued my walk, but now mostly in the direction of the square where the cathedral is located.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

Namely, as I have mentioned earlier, in order to do something related to sightseeing while saving my legs and back a bit, I decided to take a ride on the tourist train. These rides depart from the square where the cathedral is located.

Lecce, a detail

Since I didn't take a photo of the Bishop’s Palace in the morning, I did so now.

Lecce, a detail

Soon, the tourist train arrived and passengers were able to board.

Lecce, a detail

I must admit, I both liked and didn't like this ride. On the one hand, it was nice not to have to move while still being able to sightsee, but on the other hand, I realistically couldn't see much because the stops at the landmarks were either too short or my viewing angle wasn't good enough. Additionally, the commentary I could listen to through the headphones was in Italian. I speak Italian relatively well, but if the content is specific (like history, art history, religion, etc.), it still poses a challenge for me.

I made the most of my time at the Church of Santa Croce, where we stopped long enough for me to take some good shots of the incredibly richly decorated façade that adorns this church, which I have already written about in the previous part of my travelogue.

Basilica Santa Croce, a detail

Basilica Santa Croce, a detail

Basilica Santa Croce, a detail

Basilica Santa Croce, a detail

I also managed to take a nice shot of one of the three gates that lead into the historic centre of Lecce. This one is called Porta Rudiae and it was built in 1703 on the site of an earlier gate that collapsed at the end of the 17th century. The gate is richly decorated, while at the top there is a statue of Saint Orontius, the patron saint of Lecce.

Lecce, a detail

The end of the sightseeing tour of the historic centre of Lecce with the tour guide was near a large park in the city centre, so from there, I quickly and easily made my way to Piazza Sant'Oronzo. I had already been there earlier, but now I went to see the remains of the Roman amphitheatre. The amphitheatre was built in the 2nd century and could hold around 25,000 spectators. Today, it is only partially excavated, as much of it is covered by the modern city, but it’s interesting to view the amphitheatre from the level of the square.

Lecce, a detail

While walking here, I got inspired to have an ice-cream. I thought it was a good sign (regarding my back and leg pain), as it seemed like things were getting back to normal. Of course, in order to fully recover, I needed to return home, and I can say right away that I spent the rest of the trip dealing with varying degrees of discomfort. However, in the end, I managed to do and see everything I had planned.

Lecce, a detail

By now, it was already later in the afternoon, so I slowly headed back to the room. On the way, I took a few more photos and that was it, at least as far as Lecce was concerned.

Lecce, a detail

I also needed to pack, as I was heading to my next destination the following day, and I wanted to do everything slowly and carefully in order to avoid creating any bigger problems. That’s exactly what I did, and the next morning after breakfast, I put my large backpack on my back, my small backpack in front of me, and I headed towards the intercity coach station.

I had decided that my next destination, where I had booked a very comfortable room for two days, would be the town of Maglie. It was still within the Salento Peninsula, which is better known as the "heel" of Italy's "boot."

From what I saw online, there was a direct coach connection between Lecce and Maglie, which suited me perfectly, especially since the coach stop was very close to the room I had been staying in during my time in Lecce. By the way, for reasons unknown to me, the coach takes half the time compared to the train.

I went there and started waiting for the coach. At the stop, there was a sign that clearly showed the arrival time. However, the coach didn’t come and the time kept passing. There were two Argentinians at the stop as well and they were also waiting for the same coach, so we started chatting. Then, I looked more closely at the information board and only then noticed that this coach line only operated during the season, i.e., for a couple of summer months, and that by mid-September, it had already been discontinued. The internet still showed that the coach passed and stopped there, but now it had been updated with a new time, one hour later.

I didn’t like that at all, but there was nothing that could be done, at least as far as the coach was concerned. Together with the two Argentinians, I started doing more research online and the conclusion was that we needed to go to the train station and take the train from there – me to Maglie, and they to Otranto.

We didn’t see any taxis, so we waited for the city bus and took it relatively close to the train station, where we then had to continue on foot. Although I was constantly worried about carrying the large backpack and the condition of my back, I simply didn’t have a choice. Fortunately, everything went well – I bought my train ticket, soon boarded, and started heading where I wanted to go, just a little later and more complicated than planned.

Although the distance between Lecce and Maglie is only about 30 km, the train takes about an hour to cover that distance. But I wasn’t in a rush, so I calmly observed the landscapes we were passing through. I found it interesting to see stone buildings that I wasn’t exactly sure what they were used for, but I assumed, since they were located in agricultural areas, that they were or still are used to house people who work in the fields.

Salento peninsula, a detail

Salento peninsula, a detail

Seeing the stone fences between the plots of land again, I couldn’t help but think about how hard-working the people here are – no matter where the stone comes from, it must be carried to the desired location and then arranged. That can’t be an easy task.

Upon arriving at the train station in the town of Maglie, I first checked the train schedule, as I had plans for an excursion later that day. Then, I made my way to the room I had booked. On the way, I passed by a few notable places in this small town.

The first was a column called Colonna della Madonna delle Grazie, which was erected between 1684 and 1687 at the site that is now at the centre of a small roundabout.

Maglie, a detail

Although there is a church of the same name quite close to this column, I took a photo of a different church, specifically the Cathedral of Maglie. I decided to visit it later.

Maglie, a detail

After I had left my things in the room, I took a walk to the centre of this small town because I needed to grab something to eat. Along the way, I took some photos of details, such as the bell tower of the cathedral and a square. There, I found a place where I could sit, but since it wasn’t a proper restaurant, more of a bar, the food had to be somewhat improvised.

Maglie, a detail

Maglie, a detail

Maglie, a detail

After a pleasant break, I headed back to the train station, following practically the same route I had taken to get to the room and the centre. I passed by the cathedral again, as well as the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, which is located near the column Colonna della Madonna delle Grazie.

Maglie, a detail

Maglie, a detail

Maglie, a detail

I was now heading on an "excursion" to Otranto, a coastal town where the Adriatic and Ionian seas, both parts of the Mediterranean, meet. It is precisely because of Otranto that the strait between the two seas is called the Strait of Otranto, a wide waterway that connects the two seas and simultaneously separates the Apennine and Balkan peninsulas.

Just like when travelling from Lecce to Maglie, where the train takes twice as long as the bus, the same applies between Maglie and Otranto. The distance is only about 20 km, but the train takes around an hour, partly because it doesn’t go directly and stops at several places. Of course, here in the far south of Italy there are no high-speed trains.

Maglie, a detail

From the train, one can see numerous fertile agricultural estates in this part of the Salento Peninsula.

Salento peninsula, a detail

Upon arriving in Otranto, it's clear that the railway line ends there.

Otranto, a detail

Getting from the train station to the coast takes about 10-15 minutes on foot, although it seemed to me that it was a bit more, probably because I was moving slowly, aware of the sensations in my back, spine and leg (although I constantly felt discomfort, the pain didn’t worsen).

At one point, I even came across a nice unofficial viewpoint (a spot next to the street). You couldn’t see much from there (I couldn’t get a good view of the historic centre of the town), but I was still glad to have this open space between the spot where I was photographing and some parts of Otranto.

Otranto, a detail

Soon, I arrived at the beach. It was a bit cooler that day because a chilly wind was blowing, but apart from that, it was quite clear that the summer season was completely over.

Otranto, a detail

I continued along the wide promenade by the sea, which gave me the opportunity to photograph the promenade itself, as well as a great view of the exit from the port in Otranto and further toward the Strait of Otranto.

Otranto, a detail

Otranto, a detail

And so I arrived at the historic centre, which is surrounded by defensive walls.

Otranto, a detail

Although I paid attention to some details that can be seen here and took photos of them, I first sat down to have a coffee and a soft drink in order to wake up a little bit, because I think my blood pressure must have dropped and I was feeling quite sleepy.

Otranto, a detail

Otranto, a detail

Break in Otranto

I definitely felt better after that, although... if someone had offered me a bed and some peace, I would have gladly taken a nap. Instead, with a scarf on my head and my jacket buttoned up against the cold wind that was blowing, I set off for a leisurely walk around Otranto.

Selfie in Otranto

Otranto is part of a group of Italian towns and villages known as I Borghi più belli d'Italia ("The most beautiful villages of Italy"). I must admit that by the end of my time in Otranto, I was extremely content and I truly loved this place. I couldn’t pinpoint any one particular thing that stood out, but it somehow felt like this place had everything it needed to have.

To begin with, there is the history that dates back to the ancient Greeks, who had their settlement here. Of course, later on, the Romans arrived, while after them, various rulers and conquerors came and went, including the Byzantines, Normans, Ottomans, and more.

The historic centre of the town is surrounded by ramparts and one of the entrances is through a gate called Torre Alfonsina (Alfonso's Tower).

Otranto, a detail

That’s how I entered the streets of the historic centre of Otranto, but not all of the buildings here are old or "historical."

Otranto, a detail

However, one of the buildings I soon came across is both old and significant. It is the Cathedral of Otranto, which was consecrated in 1088.

Since the cathedral was built on a slope, the crypt can be accessed directly from the street. I happened to find that entrance first, so I began my tour of the cathedral from there.

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

In the crypt, you can see numerous columns, as well as remnants of frescoes from the Middle Ages (up to the 16th century).

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

I climbed from the crypt into the space of the cathedral, which was built as a three-aisled structure, with an apse at the eastern end. The length of the cathedral is 54 m, while the width is 25 m.

The cathedral is most famous for its floor mosaic from the second half of the 12th century, which covers the entire central nave, the presbytery and the apse, as well as the transept.

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

In the previous image, a part of the floor mosaic depicting Alexander the Great is clearly visible, as part of illustrating various scenes from the Alexander Romance, a medieval novel about the imagined adventures of Alexander the Great. Here, the king is shown being carried by two griffins, as he, among other things, wanted to see the world from great heights, that is, from the air.

Here is another photograph showing the mosaic of Alexander the Great.

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

The mosaic also depicts wild beasts and various scenes from the Old Testament, all arranged along the Tree of Life.

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

When I got the chance and there was no one in front of me, I managed to take a vertical panorama so that this space could be seen better. At the same time, the black, white and gilded wooden ceiling from the 16th century is clearly visible as well.

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

I walked a little more around the cathedral and then I went outside in order to get a better view of it from the side of the front façade.

Otranto Cathedral, a detail

Otranto Cathedral

Throughout its history, the cathedral's façade has been renovated or restored several times, during which various changes were made – such as the addition of a rose window after 1480, when the Ottomans ravaged the city. Later, a baroque portal was created, while windows were added to the left and right sides of the front façade.

After visiting the cathedral, I continued with my casual walk around the historic centre of Otranto and first headed to a nearby viewpoint.

Otranto, a detail

Soon, I went to the opposite end of the historic centre, where the Aragonese Castle is located.

Otranto, a detail

Still, I first walked to the top of the bastion called Torre Mata. From there, there is a very beautiful view of the harbour in Otranto.

Otranto, a detail

After a short stop at the top of this bastion, I returned to the Aragonese Castle, but with no intention of visiting it.

Otranto, a detail

It was enough for me to just look at some details. The structure is an irregularly shaped fortress surrounded on all sides by a deep moat. Although the first fortification existed here as early as the 11th century, it took its current form at the end of the 15th century. However, in the 19th century, when there was no longer a need for a defensive fortification, the moat was filled in and many changes were made. But gradually, in the second half of the 20th century, it was restored to its earlier form.

Otranto, a detail

Today, there are exhibitions here related to the history of Otranto.

Otranto, a detail

I just peeked in briefly and then I slowly headed first towards the coast and the sea, and then further on to the train station. Sometime later, I returned to the town of Maglie.

After a fairly good night's sleep, I slowly got ready in the morning and, with a large backpack on, descended from the flat I had rented in the town of Ostuni to the spacious parking lot for tourist coaches, where there is also a stop for the city bus that goes to the train station about 4 km away.

The backpack wasn't heavy at all, especially since I know how to adjust it well and I felt perfectly fine, moving with ease. At one point, I headed to a nearby bar to buy a bus ticket and as I was taking my wallet out of the waist pouch, something fell out and I instinctively bent down to pick it up. At that moment, I felt a rather unpleasant pain in my back and I realised I had caused myself a problem. The backpack was still not heavy to carry, but the pain was present.

What can you do? Nothing, except continue as planned, but with very careful and slow movements.

The city bus arrived, first I got on and a bit further down I got off, waited for the train, and transferred to the city of Lecce in southern Italy.

Here again is the map showing all the places I visited during my trip through the Apulia region in southern Italy in September 2024. By the way, the southern part of Apulia is easy to find on the map – it's the heel of the famous Italian boot.

Upon arriving in Lecce, I didn't have much of a choice, so I adjusted my large backpack on again and set off on foot towards the room I had booked in the city. The room was in a guesthouse in the historic centre and in any case, there was no way to get directly there by any form of transport. Traffic in the old part of the city is quite limited and there is a schedule for when motor vehicles can pass through, and I certainly didn't fit into that schedule.

Although I felt pain in my back the entire time, it wasn't too intense, so I even occasionally stopped and took some pictures with my mobile phone. Lecce, especially its historic centre, is exceptionally beautiful and is often called the "Florence of the South" or the "Baroque Florence," all because of the large number of buildings built in this style. Additionally, the weather was nice, which highlighted the richness of the various details.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

Since the path to my room took me very close to the square where the cathedral is located (Piazza del Duomo), I decided to stop there right away and take a few photos with my large backpack on my back and the smaller backpack in front of me.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

I continued for a few hundred metres more, passed by a smaller square with a couple of palaces, and then finally arrived at the rented room.

Lecce, a detail

It felt great to take off both my large and small backpacks, and since it was early afternoon, I decided to go for lunch first. I figured everything would be easier after I pleasantly filled my stomach. Luckily, there was a pretty good restaurant near the room I had rented and I must say that the food was quite enjoyable. The wine was great, too.

For the starter, I had cheese dumplings with caciocavallo and 'nduja (a type of spicy pork sausage) on a ricotta mousse. For the main course, I had a "millefeuille" of octopus and purple potatoes with basil drops.

Part of lunch in Lecce

Part of lunch in Lecce

It's fascinating how chefs (or whoever comes up with these recipes) think of such combinations, but I must admit, it was delicious. It might seem like not enough at first glance, but in the end, I was quite pleasantly full.

Although I still felt the pain in my back, it didn’t increase while I was sitting in the restaurant, so I decided to take a leisurely walk around the centre of Lecce. My goal was to reach one of the most important churches in the city and along the way I passed by other interesting places, such as the deep arch from the 17th century called Arco di Prato.

Lecce, a detail

On the other hand, it seemed to me that even parts of the historic centre of Lecce that don't have any special names deserve attention.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

Soon enough, I reached my desired destination, which was the Basilica of the Holy Cross, or Santa Croce, the construction of which was completed in 1695.

Basilica Santa Croce

The church is characterised by an exceptionally ornate façade, so I found it interesting to capture various parts and details of it.

Basilica Santa Croce, a detail

Basilica Santa Croce, a detail

Basilica Santa Croce, a detail

Basilica Santa Croce, a detail

Basilica Santa Croce, a detail

I didn't enter the church, but instead started looking for a store where I could buy a rain jacket. The forecast for the coming days predicted occasional rain and for some unknown reason, I hadn't brought an umbrella or a jacket with me. I thought it would be best to have a rain jacket, but since I didn’t find what I was looking for right away, while my back and right leg were starting to bother me more and more (apparently, that sudden movement in Ostuni did something to my sciatic nerve), I decided to head slowly back to my room. However, I took a bit of a detour to see something else that day, which was the Naples Gate (Porta Napoli), one of the three triumphal arches in the city and also the closest one to my room.

Lecce, a detail

The gate was built in 1548 in honour of Charles V and it stands at the entrance to the historic centre of Lecce.

Lecce, a detail

In its immediate vicinity is the Church of Santa Maria della Porta. This was once a small church outside the city walls, but it was moved (built) here in the middle of the 16th century. Later, it was expanded, while its current shape, which includes an octagonal ground plan, was acquired in the mid-19th century.

Lecce, a detail

Here I definitely had to stop my sightseeing, as I was having major difficulties walking and needed to go back to my room to lie down and rest my leg, back, nerves, and everything else that needed rest.

This condition of mine quickly led me into almost immediate depression. But, there was nothing I could do at that moment except take some medicine I had in my little emergency pharmacy, which I always carry with me when I travel.

However, I soon realised that I wouldn’t have enough water until the next morning, so at some point, I had to go outside and walk to the nearest store in the area that I knew of. I could barely walk. But, loaded with two large bottles of water, I sat down in a café near my room to have a coffee and, in that way, create at least a semblance of normality.

I didn’t stay there long and soon I was back in my room, going into the horizontal position again. Before going to bed, I took another medicine, hoping that things would be better the following day.

And they truly were. Of course, I didn’t miraculously heal and start running, but the pain and the inability or difficulty to walk, which I had experienced the previous afternoon, did not return.

On the other hand, I wasn’t in any rush at all and I did everything very slowly. However, I still had to get that jacket. While studying the map of Lecce and exploring my options, I realised that the easiest option, and even the closest in terms of walking, was to go to the nearby city bus station and take a bus to the suburb, where there was a large shopping mall. I figured that I’d have a wide selection in one place, which was important not only in terms of the style, but also in terms of the size – I’m quite tall and my arms are noticeably longer than average for the South of Italy. If I was going to buy a jacket, it only made sense if I found one that truly fits me.

I’m sharing this to show that travel isn’t always rosy, easy and fun. There’s always a possibility of unpleasant, and certainly unplanned, things happening. Depending on the problem, it’s important to assess what we can realistically do and then act accordingly.

So, when I left the room, carefully moving all the while, I first passed by the Church of Santa Maria della Porta again, where I stopped for a moment, and the Naples Gate, and then I moved out of the historic centre. This was ideal because nearby there was the city bus stop I needed.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

I could even take a quick look at some parts of Lecce from that bus and at one roundabout, I noticed a sculpture called "Germination", which stands 9 m tall.

Lecce, a detail

All in all, a little later, I returned to the city centre with a new jacket, ready to face the rain. To start with, I passed by the Naples Gate again and took a photo from a better angle than the previous day.

Lecce, a detail

Since the rain still hadn’t started, I took my new jacket back to the room and then, very slowly and carefully, paying attention to every change in my body, I set off for a walk around the city centre.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

My impressions of Lecce were extremely positive and I really regretted not being able to relax more. However, considering my condition, I was ultimately quite pleased and I think I managed to see a large part of the city's landmarks.

So, once again I went to the square where the Cathedral is, which is appropriately called Piazza del Duomo.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

One can truly enjoy the beautiful Baroque buildings here. The bell tower, which is 70 m tall, and the cathedral itself stand out in particular.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

There is also the Bishop's Palace and the Seminary, although I didn’t take any pictures of the Bishop's Palace at this time. My plan was to return here in the afternoon, as the tourist train departed from that location, and I thought it would be an easier way for me to explore Lecce without overexerting my body.

Lecce, a detail

Since the historic centre of Lecce isn't actually very large, I started a leisurely walk and passed by the museum that houses the Roman theatre, or rather, its remains. My intention was to limit my visit to just the exterior, so I didn’t enter, but along the way, I was able to see visually attractive, though not overly significant, places.

Lecce, a detail

That is how I arrived at a square with a park and around it were numerous restaurants. I realised that this was a good sign and that I should sit down and eat. After all, it was already afternoon, and I needed to make sure I didn’t miss lunch.

I entered one of the restaurants and, once again, I was happy with my choice. For the starter, I had bruschetta with spiced cooked octopus and broad bean cream, while my main dish was one of my favourites – spaghetti with clams.

Part of lunch in Lecce

Part of lunch in Lecce

From the spot where I was sitting, enjoying my food (and wine), I could see a very beautiful building – the Church of Santa Chiara that was originally built in the first half of the 15th century, but was rebuilt in 1687.

Lecce, a detail

The church was beautiful from another angle as well, which I was able to capture after I finished my lunch.

Lecce, a detail

A little further away there was another church with an exceptionally beautiful façade – the Church of San Matteo, built in 1667.

Lecce, a detail

There is a local legend associated with this church, specifically with the columns on its façade, where it is evident that the right column is only partially decorated at the bottom, while the left one is untouched. The legend says that this happened because a jealous devil killed the sculptor before he could finish his work. It’s an interesting story, for sure, but what particularly delighted me here was the shell in the centre of the decoration, as I know it symbolises St. James the Apostle and his pilgrimage route. The Way of St. James is certainly one of my most memorable experiences, not just from my travels, but in life. Anyone interested can read about my pilgrimage, starting with Part 1: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/spain-1/.

Lecce, a detail

As I have mentioned several times, aside from some buildings that are particularly significant, many others stand out because of their beauty or the beauty of their details. Therefore, a leisurely walk, even without any specific information, can still be a very pleasant experience here.

Lecce, a detail

I thus arrived at the spacious square – Piazza Sant'Oronzo.

Lecce, a detail

Almost in the very centre of the square stands a high column topped by the statue of Saint Orontius, who is the patron saint of Lecce. One part of the square was fenced off during my visit, and therefore inaccessible, due to some ongoing construction work. However, I was especially glad that I had bought that rain jacket, given the dark clouds that were slowly starting to cover the sky.

At the northwest end of the square, there is also the Carafa Palace (Palazzo Carafa), which was built in the 18th century on the site of an earlier monastery, during the urban renovation of Lecce.

Lecce, a detail

The building underwent certain alterations in the early 20th century and today serves as the seat of the municipality of Lecce. Maybe it is even more beautiful and interesting from Via Rubichi, where, in addition to the beautiful façade of the Carafa Palace, one can also see the remains of the ancient Roman street within the same street.

Lecce, a detail

Namely, Lecce is indeed a very old city (the first settlement in this part of present-day Italy dates back to the 8th-7th century BCE), which developed quite well during the time of Ancient Rome, especially in the 1st and 2nd centuries CE. This is evidenced by the aforementioned Roman Theatre and the Roman Amphitheatre, about which I will write more later on. But, in addition to these, more recently, during works on the reconstruction of a modern street, a piece of the ancient Roman paved road was discovered and it has now been displayed so that everyone can see it.

Lecce, a detail

Not far from here is the Church of Santa Croce with its beautiful façade, so I went to that side again.

Lecce, a detail

The reason, however, wasn’t the church itself, but the building next to it, which, during my visit in September 2024, was covered, clearly due to some renovation work.

Lecce, a detail

It is a former monastery (Palazzo dei Celestini), while the building was constructed between 1549 and 1695. What stands out, in particular, is its inner courtyard.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

After passing through the courtyard, I exited from the other side, and there, across the street, was a large park. However, I wasn’t interested in going there and walking, so I just took a photo (which turned out a bit blurry).

Lecce, a detail

Instead, I returned through the Palazzo dei Celestini and then continued my walk through the historic centre of Lecce.

Lecce, a detail

Lecce, a detail

As I mentioned at the end of the previous sequel of the story about my trip through the Italian region of Apulia (or Puglia, as the Italians call it) in mid-September 2024, after a lovely and long lunch break (and some wine), I set out for a leisurely walk, first around the edge of the historic centre of the town of Ostuni and then I ventured into its narrow and picturesque streets.

Ostuni

Ostuni is also known as the "White City" due to the presence of numerous whitewashed buildings. This mainly refers to the historic centre of the city, which is built on top of a hill near the Adriatic Sea.

After I took some pictures of the city from the outside, I headed towards the centre through its narrow streets, which were more like passageways and staircases.

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

This is how I arrived at the Church of Saint Vitus the Martyr (Chiesa di San Vito martire), also known as Santa Maria Maddalena de' Pazzi.

Church of Saint Vitus the Martyr

The church was built between 1750 and 1754 on the ruins of a previous medieval church. Although, as I’ve read, it has a beautiful interior, today it serves as a venue for conferences and cultural events, and some archaeological finds can be seen there, including the skeleton of a woman with a foetus from the Palaeolithic. However, I wanted to continue walking, so I didn’t linger here.

Just a few dozen metres away is the Ostuni Cathedral, which is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. When I reached the cathedral, it was clear that a wedding ceremony had just concluded, while a photo session was taking place on the stairs in front of the main entrance. So, I had to wait for a while, but then it was possible to enter the cathedral without disturbing anyone.

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni Cathedral

The church was built between 1437 and 1495. Although it may appear modest at first glance, the facade actually features a number of beautiful decorations, with the central rose window standing out in particular.

Ostuni Cathedral, a detail

Ostuni Cathedral, a detail

The interior of the cathedral was renovated during the Baroque period and there, too, one can notice many beautiful and interesting details.

Ostuni Cathedral, a detail

Ostuni Cathedral, a detail

Ostuni Cathedral, a detail

Ostuni Cathedral, a detail

Across from the entrance to the cathedral is the Bishop’s Palace, which was originally built around 1560, but was significantly renovated in 1750.

Bishop’s Palace

It is connected to the neighbouring seminary by a very beautiful arch that is named after the bishop who is credited with its construction in the first half of the 18th century.

Ostuni, a detail

Scoppa Arch

Scoppa Arch from the back

The historic centre of Ostuni, with its narrow streets, staircases and doorways, is exceptionally picturesque and I now set off on a relaxed and leisurely walk through this part of the city. Along the way, I came to a spot that offered a very beautiful view of the coastline and the Adriatic Sea.

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

At one point, I decided to go to the supermarket because I needed to buy a few things that would make my stay in the rented flat more comfortable. Once I finished that, I returned to the street where the flat was located. The day was already coming to an end, so I retreated to my accommodation, as I was also making plans for the coming days, so I didn’t go out anymore.

Ostuni, a detail

The next day, I planned to visit the town of Monopoli on the Adriatic coast, as it had been recommended to me. I was even told that the place was more beautiful than Polignano a Mare. I’ll say right away that this wasn’t my impression in the end, but I was certainly happy I made this "half-day trip."

It all started though with me walking in Ostuni to a remarkable spot, a point offering a wonderful view of the historic centre of this "White City."

Along the way, I also passed through a relatively large city park, where I noticed a tree that I found very beautiful and interesting.

Ostuni, a detail

But besides that, while passing through parts of Ostuni that don't belong to the historic centre, I could conclude that they were also quite interesting and picturesque.

Ostuni, a detail

The viewpoint I was heading to is located on a terrace square called Piazzetta Martiri delle Foibe, which is about 700 m from the main square that leads into the historic centre of the city. I think it’s best to visit here in the morning, due to the position of the sun in relation to the historic centre – that’s when the whiteness of Ostuni stands out the most. Additionally, the coastline and the Adriatic Sea are also clearly visible from here.

Ostuni

Ostuni

Ostuni

After I took a few shots, I began heading back toward the city centre. Along the way, I stopped again at a few spots to capture the White City and some of its details from a different angle.

Ostuni

Ostuni, a detail

When I reached the main square, I first took a few photos and then sat down to enjoy a nice coffee at a spot where I had a lovely view of the historic centre.

Ostuni, a detail

Afterwards, I got moving again, but only briefly continued towards Liberty Square (Piazza della Libertà), because there is a church there that was open at the time and I wanted to visit it.

Ostuni, a detail

It was the Church of St. Francis of Assisi (Chiesa di San Francesco d'Assisi).

Church of St. Francis of Assisi

The church was built in 1304, but it has since been renovated and expanded several times. Specifically, its facade was redesigned in 1883, while the bronze doors were made more recently, in 1985.

The interior consists of a single nave and the decoration dates back to the 18th century.

Church of St. Francis of Assisi

Although I wasn't in any rush, after this I did move on, leisurely heading towards the spacious parking lot for tourist coaches, Tenente Specchia, where city buses that go to and from the Ostuni train station, about 4 km away, also stop.

Ostuni, a detail

The day was very beautiful, sunny and pleasantly warm, so I headed to the town of Monopoli on the coast, which had been recommended to me as a very lovely place (it is about 40 km from Ostuni). Since the whole trip had been characterised by fairly relaxed and leisurely sightseeing, I felt it was perfectly fine to take a ride through southern Italy to visit a place about which I had no prior information.

So, from the train station, I walked towards the historic centre, passing by the Church of Saint Anthony of Padua (Parrocchia Sant'Antonio di Padova), but without the intention of stopping there.

Monopoli, a detail

I did, however, have a serious intention to stop somewhere for an early lunch and I soon did just that. I must admit, on this occasion, I made a very good choice, and in the end, I was both full and content.

Swordfish Carpaccio marinated in lemon oil

Gnocchi with prawns, rocket pesto and almonds, with extra virgin olive oil and cheese

Meanwhile, I decided not to go directly to the historic centre of Monopoli, but rather to take the newer streets of the town, wandering a bit around, so I could approach the historic centre from the southern side and start my visit from there.

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

By doing this, not only was I able to see the Monopoli Cathedral, but I also got to see a part of the open-air Armoury Museum.

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

In this way, I also reached the beach Cala Porta Vecchia, which can be said to be right in the middle of the old town.

Monopoli, a detail

The beach was quite nice, but not exactly inspiring. So, I just took a photo of it from another angle and dipped my feet in the water.

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

Then, I started to walk around the town a bit. At one point, I saw a building that was constructed in the same way as the one where I had rented the flat in Ostuni. I found this especially interesting because of my friend, who is an architect, so I mentioned it to her. Specifically, I noticed that many buildings were designed in a way where you enter the front room, which clearly has a door, but also a window or windows. This room tends to be relatively long, and from there, in the flat where I stayed, you enter the bedroom, which actually has no windows at all, and the only source of natural light comes through the door connecting the two rooms. This is quite visible in the next photo: the white building on the right-hand side of the picture has both a door and windows on the front, but when viewed from the side, there is practically nothing. Anyone interested can easily imagine that the only natural light inside comes from the front facade.

Monopoli, a detail

I suppose the reason for this type of construction is either that the buildings were built right next to each other, leaving no space for side openings or to reduce the impact of heat during the summer or strong winds during the winter.

Well, these are the kinds of things I think about when I travel. But in the case of Monopoli, there were plenty of truly interesting and beautiful buildings that didn't prompt any theories on my part.

Monopoli, a detail

On my way to the cathedral, I also passed by the Church of Santa Maria del Suffragio from the 17th century. The street where this church is located is quite narrow, so I could only photograph it from the side.

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

Soon, I reached the cathedral, which is officially called Basilica Cattedrale della Madonna della Madia.

Monopoli Cathedral

The construction of the original church began in 1107, but between 1742 and 1770, it was entirely replaced by a new church built in the Baroque style. The interior decoration features the use of multicoloured marble, while the miraculous icon of the Madonna della Madia, which, according to legend, emerged from the sea in 1117, is located at the centre of the presbytery.

Monopoli Cathedral, a detail

Monopoli Cathedral, a detail

Continuing my walk through the historic centre of Monopoli, I was able to enjoy numerous picturesque houses, as well as various churches.

Monopoli, a detail

Some of the churches still serve exclusively religious functions, while others have adapted to modern times. For example, the Church of Saint Leonard (Chiesa San Leonardo) from the 18th century, a part of which has been converted into a museum.

Monopoli, a detail

I also took a stroll to a square called Piazza Palmieri. The square is interesting because it features the 18th-century Church of St. Teresa (Chiesa di Santa Teresa), a beautiful fountain, and the Palmieri Palace (Palazzo Palmieri), also from the 18th century.

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

Now, I began walking through some streets, heading towards the picturesque Old Port (Porto Vecchio).

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

The Old Port isn't large, but I found it interesting for photography, as there were some unique angles and details to capture.

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

In the previous photo, on the left, you can see the Castle of Charles V (Castello Carlo V), with a pentagonal ground plan, the construction of which was completed in 1525. It is located on a promontory that was once separate from the town, while for a time, it was used as a prison. Today, it is a venue for exhibitions and cultural events.

Monopoli, a detail

Now I leisurely made my way back to the train station, but along the way, I passed through other parts of the historic centre, where I once again photographed interesting details and buildings. These were mostly churches and former monasteries, but everything was truly pleasant to look at.

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

Monopoli, a detail

On my way back to the train station serving the town of Ostuni, I was able to enjoy the landscapes through the train window. Olive groves were often visible along the way.

Monopoli, a detail

I had previously mentioned that the Ostuni train station is not actually in the town itself, but about 4 km away. However, there are buses that solve this issue. When I returned to the town, it was still day, so I headed toward the centre.

Ostuni, a detail

I again stumbled upon a wedding, but this time the guests were heading somewhere. It seemed to me that Ostuni is particularly popular as a wedding destination.

Ostuni, a detail

I first went to have a coffee and it was just what I needed. It felt quite good.

Ostuni, a detail

Since I had no obligations for the rest of the day, I completely relaxed and enjoyed myself. The only thing I did at some point was move to another café, still in the centre of Ostuni, where the sun was shining a little longer. There, I ordered a cocktail. Dolce far’ niente!

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

When the last rays of the sun stopped reaching the main square and its surroundings, I slowly started heading towards the flat I had rented, but through some relatively side streets. I found it interesting to observe parts of the town that weren't touristy.

Ostuni, a detail

Ostuni, a detail

I was once again aware of the specific form of residential units, where the front facades had openings, but it was quite clear that these were the only openings through which natural light could enter the interior space.

Ostuni, a detail

What I found particularly interesting, considering the narrow streets, was the skill of the local drivers.

Ostuni, a detail

Not only did they manage to pass each other in those narrow streets or turn corners, but they also succeeded in parking their cars in completely unbelievable spots, with exceptional skill and a keen sense of space and stairs.

Ostuni, a detail

In the distance, I could also see the Adriatic Sea.

Ostuni, a detail

And as the day was coming to an end, the colours were really beautiful, adding a special charm to this lovely town and its buildings.

Ostuni, a detail

After an absolutely wonderful lunch in Martina Franca, an exceptionally charming town in the Apulia region (or Puglia, as the Italians call it), I set off for a walk through the historic centre of the city, with the intention of visiting a few more interesting places.

However, here it is enough simply to walk aimlessly, as there is something beautiful and picturesque to see at every corner. For example, I passed by the "The Courtyard House Le Marangi” from the first half of the 18th century. As I read on the plaque that stands there, at some point, they began to build townhouses with multiple residential units, as well as buildings for domestic animals and storage, all around a shared courtyard. This essentially represented the transition from rural to urban life and this house is one of the rare examples of this type of building that has survived in Martina Franca to this day.

Martina Franca

There were other picturesque details as well.

Martina Franca

And then I returned to one of the main squares – Piazza Maria Immacolata.

Martina Franca

By a building on the corner of this square, the woman I had captured in the photograph published in the previous section was still sitting calmly on an improvised bench, probably waiting for someone.

Martina Franca

As for Piazza Maria Immacolata, since the sun had started shining on it from the other side, it looked even more beautiful than when I first arrived there.

Martina Franca

From here, I could also see the Collegiate Church of St. Martin of Tours on Piazza Plebiscito, so I then continued to that square.

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Now I glanced once again at Piazza Maria Immacolata and then I slipped into the narrow streets of the historic centre of Martina Franca.

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

This way, I arrived at the former Convent of the Augustinian nuns, but everything there seemed calm and closed off.

Martina Franca

Since the streets here are extremely narrow and winding, it was very difficult to find a good angle to capture a building, and this former convent could easily appear as just a regular townhouse if it weren't for the cross on the top.

Martina Franca

I also decided to take a little walk through the old neighbourhood called La Lama and then I headed towards the train station, as I was on my way to another charming town in the Itria Valley.

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

That other town is called Locorotondo and it is located roughly halfway by train between Alberobello and Martina Franca. It really doesn’t matter in which order these towns are visited. I wanted to go to Martina Franca first, but it would have been perfectly fine if I had visited Locorotondo first.

What I found interesting along the way were the landscapes through which the train passed.

Between Martina Franca and Locorotondo

In addition to seeing fields, olive groves and vineyards, various trulli could often be spotted as well, which only shows how popular this method of building structures is here.

Between Martina Franca and Locorotondo

Everything looks even better, or rather, gives a better impression when viewed in video format:

And then I spotted Locorotondo at the top of the hill.

Locorotondo

From the train station in Locorotondo, it takes about 15 minutes on foot to reach the historic centre of the town. Along the way, I occasionally stopped to capture a beautiful or interesting detail.

Locorotondo

Locorotondo

When you reach the top of the hill, directly across from the entrance to the town centre, there is a park with a monument to the fallen soldiers. However, what was more important to me – from there, you get an outstanding view of the Itria Valley. This is definitely a spot worth stopping at.

Locorotondo

View at Itria Valley

On one side, I could see the areas I had just passed through by train and in the distance, there was Martina Franca.

View at Itria Valley

On the other side, much closer, I could see the farmland, as well as some tourist facilities. In any case, everything looked very beautiful.

View at Itria Valley

Now I set off for the historic centre of the town. Locorotondo literally means "round place," as it has a nearly perfect circular layout. It is also a part of the group I Borghi più belli d'Italia (The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy), which is the name of a private association of small Italian towns that are particularly interesting in historical or artistic terms.

Locorotondo

Locorotondo

Locorotondo

Locorotondo

Locorotondo is smaller than Martina Franca, and it seems to me that it’s also more compact, which might make it appear more modest in some way. However, it certainly deserves a walk and I thoroughly enjoyed it that day. So, I first went to Palazzo Morelli.

Morelli Palace

Once again, the narrowness of the street prevented me from getting a better shot of the palace, but the details visible in the previous and next photographs are illustrative enough.

This is a palace that represents a good example of local Baroque architecture. It’s not exactly known when the first building was erected on this site, but it is known that it was significantly renovated during the 18th century, while the facade seen in my photos dates from that period. What I found particularly interesting is that the top of the portal is actually a balcony.

Morelli Palace

I took photos of the some details and then continued to the nearby Parish Church of St. George the Martyr.

Locorotondo

Church of Saint George Martyr

This is a church the construction of which began in 1790 on the site of an earlier church from the 12th century. Due to various reasons and problems, the church was completed only in 1825. The church also has a tall bell tower, but it is only occasionally visible (again, due to the narrow space).

Church of Saint George Martyr

The interior of the church is exceptionally beautiful and elegant.

Church of Saint George Martyr

Church of Saint George Martyr

After leaving the church, I wandered a bit around the streets nearby, hoping to spot some details a bit better. Well, I didn’t...

Locorotondo

Locorotondo

Then I left the historic centre of Locorotondo, but only for a short while, as I went to visit the nearby Church of Madonna della Greca, the oldest church in the town. The first building on this site was erected in the 7th and 8th centuries, but that church was reconstructed in the 15th century.

Church of Madonna della Greca

It is believed that this church was built in 1481, just outside the city walls, and this decision was linked to the lack of available land in the crowded centre. This situation is exactly what led to the narrow streets I mentioned earlier in the text.

What I particularly liked about this church was the rose window above the portal, while the interior, all in white, was very elegant.

Church of Madonna della Greca

Church of Madonna della Greca

Now I returned to the historic centre of Locorotondo and wandered for a while through the very beautiful and charming streets, which were full of various picturesque details.

Locorotondo

Locorotondo

Locorotondo

Locorotondo

I also stopped for a coffee, while a little later I made my way down to the train station, waited for the train and headed back to Alberobello. The landscapes were still very picturesque.

Locorotondo

Upon returning to Alberobello, I first went to the flat I had rented here and a little later, when it had already gotten dark, I went for a short walk. Of course, first I had to visit the viewpoint, from where I marvelled at the beauty and charm of the whitewashed trulli with their distinctive conical stone roofs, even at this time of day.

Alberobello at night

Then I descended to the area between the two hills (Parco Largo Martelotta) and took a stroll through the Monti district. Although it wasn’t very late, it was incredibly peaceful and I would only occasionally come across a few other visitors who, like me, enjoyed walking through these streets in the evening.

Alberobello at night

Later, I returned to the flat and the next day, I continued my journey through Apulia. In the morning, I wasn’t in a hurry and, overall, my pace of exploring Apulia was quite relaxed, especially compared to how I usually travel.

Although I was still on the move and exploring, it seems to me that I took more breaks than usual and those breaks were definitely much longer than what I’m used to. After all, I was in Italy and while I think they are a hardworking people, they did come up with the saying Dolce far niente! (literally: "It's sweet to do nothing").

I’m not sure how the Italians arrived at this, but the way I see it, this saying fits perfectly with my stay in Italy because, no matter where I sit, there is always so much beauty and interesting details around me that I never feel like it’s too much or boring to, for example, stretch a coffee out for an hour or more, even though I could objectively drink it and "enjoy the break" in just 10 minutes.

All in all, after a leisurely wake-up and packing, I left the flat in Alberobello and headed to the train station. My next destination was the town of Ostuni.

Although these two towns are only about 30 km apart in a straight line, even by car, it takes around 40 minutes to drive because you have to go around a bit. Public transportation takes much longer, as it requires a transfer.

To get an idea of the places I visited on this trip, here is a map showing them all:

As for my transfer by local trains, I had already settled into my relaxed rhythm, so none of it bothered me. After all, by rule, I could only check into all the rooms/flats I rented on this trip after 3 p.m., so there was no point in rushing, especially since I couldn’t leave my big backpack everywhere.

However, in Ostuni, I had arranged with the flat owner that I could come as early as around 2 p.m., so I adjusted my rhythm to that time.

What’s special about Ostuni is that the train station is not in the town itself, but in the nearby settlement of Zona Sisri (though the station is called Ostuni). From there, you need to catch a local bus that takes you, among other places, to Ostuni, which is about 4 km uphill.

I got off the bus relatively close to the flat I had rented, so I put my big backpack on and started walking uphill. I have to admit that I was pleasantly surprised by my fitness. I did occasionally get out of breath and had to stop for a short break, but I still felt relatively light on my feet. And there were some very demanding sections!

Ostuni, a detail

The owner of the flat was there when I arrived and he was actually still finishing up the cleaning of the flat after the previous guests. However, it was enough for me to leave my luggage, both the large and small backpacks. I then casually started heading towards the centre of Ostuni.

The historic centre (centro storico) of Ostuni has an elliptical layout and in many ways it is similar to the historic centres of the towns I had already visited. However, that doesn’t mean it’s not worth a visit. The place is very charming and has several particularly interesting buildings.

Since it was already afternoon, I didn’t want to start sightseeing right away. Instead, I decided to sit down at a restaurant on the spacious Piazza della Libertà, just outside the historic centre, and have lunch.

This time, I chose pizza, primarily because they offered a version with Calabrian sausage ’nduja (which I really liked). I also ordered wine, which I usually avoid in the middle of the day because it makes me very sleepy. But since I wasn’t in a rush, it was perfectly fine.

Lunch in Ostuni

The pizza was so visually impressive that I had to take a photo of it from another angle.

Lunch in Ostuni

And the taste... Well, the taste was spectacular and I continued to enjoy it for a long time, gently digesting in my stomach.

After the wonderful and long relaxation following lunch and thanks to that glass of wine which "knocked me out" a bit, leaving me feeling a bit sluggish, I eventually started strolling around Ostuni.

To begin with, I noted some buildings and details right on Piazza della Libertà.

On the square, there’s the municipal hall of Ostuni and right next to it is the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi. I decided to leave the visit to the church for later.

Ostuni, a detail

At the opposite end of the square, where the street branches off and forms another smaller square, there is the Column of Saint Orontius. Saint Orontius is an important local Catholic saint and, according to legend, he even met Saint Paul and was appointed as the first bishop of the city of Lecce.

Ostuni, a detail

Then slowly, since I was still feeling the effects of that wine, I started my walk around the outskirts of the historic centre of Ostuni, before eventually wandering into its narrow streets.

The town of Alberobello in the Italian region of Apulia is famous for its houses with roofs made of stone slabs, featuring characteristic pyramidal, conical, or domed shapes. Although this technique, using corbelled limestone slabs, existed in this part of the world since prehistoric times, the construction of such houses in the area of present-day Alberobello began in the mid-14th century. Buildings constructed in this style can be seen throughout Apulia, especially in the Itria Valley. However, they are most numerous and concentrated in the town of Alberobello itself and I came here precisely in order to enjoy the picturesque trulli, as these houses are called (singular – trullo, plural – trulli). In the neighbourhoods of Rione Monti and Rione Aia Piccola, there are over 1,600 of these structures.

In general, trulli were built as temporary shelters and storage units in the fields, but also as permanent dwellings for owners of smaller estates or agricultural workers. Over time, two settlements (Monti and Aia Piccola) formed in the area of modern-day Alberobello and these are now integral parts of the town.

Recognising the importance of these trulli, parts of Alberobello were protected as heritage monuments between 1909 and 1936.

After a wonderfully restful night, I woke up bright and refreshed, and quite early. I got ready relatively quickly and set off for another walk through Alberobello with the desire to take advantage of the good position of the sun, the absence of clouds, and the lack of too many people, so I could photograph once more. Everything turned out just as I had hoped and I started from the point that offers a beautiful view of the Monti neighbourhood.

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

I descended again to the flat area between the two elevations and from there, I took a shot of the Monti neighbourhood.

Alberobello

I was extremely happy that I had arrived here so early. Every now and then, a person would appear, but what mattered most to me was that the light was perfect, and the scenes... Well, I was in Italy, and there, somehow, everything is always beautiful and picturesque.

Alberobello

I again started along one of the main streets that goes uphill, then I would turn left or right until I reached another larger street, and I repeated this several times, photographing various parts that caught my eye this morning. Was I bored or did I feel lazy to photograph places I had already seen and photographed the previous afternoon? Absolutely not! I enjoyed every moment and felt truly delighted.

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

And then I decided to give some meaning to my walk, rather than just randomly wandering through these streets. Although the trulli themselves are already incredibly picturesque and interesting, there are a few of these buildings that stand out because of some special feature. So, I first went to the "Siamese Trullo" (Trullo Siamese), which is named like that because it consists of two trulli connected into one. I first viewed it from one side, and then from the other.

Alberobello

Alberobello

Now, I returned to the flat square/park between the elevations, and then climbed back up to the viewpoint. It seemed to me that with every shift of the sun across the sky, the beauty of the landscape changed in its form, yet its essence remained constant.

Alberobello

After this, I ventured just a little into the Aia Piccola neighbourhood. Here, I reached a square that is now called Piazza XXVII Maggio, but it is mentioned in several places that this used to be a square called Piazza del Mercato, which was the historical market area connecting the Monti and Aia Piccola neighbourhoods. I must admit that I’m not entirely sure if this is exactly the spot – it doesn’t seem like it to me (it would make more sense for it to refer to the current area between the two elevations), and the sign next to an important trullo by the square says that it used to be a square under a different name. What I’m trying to say is that documents and maps aren’t always entirely clear. However, since this square was mentioned as significant in the documentation I used, and various maps indicated that it was indeed here, I went ahead and photographed it.

Alberobello

In the square itself, there is also the Territory Museum (Museo del Territorio), or the Historical Museum (Museo Storico), which is housed in the former Pezzolla House (Casa Pezzolla), named after its former owner, who was a doctor and lived in the late 18th century. This place is interesting because it is the largest complex of interconnected trulli and what makes it even more fascinating is that different trulli were added at different times. But even if I had wanted to visit the museum, it was still too early, and it wasn’t open yet.

Alberobello

I stepped back a bit and photographed this complex from the other side.

Alberobello

Then, I returned to the larger central square – Piazza del Popolo, and at the very northern corner of the square, there is another interesting building.

Alberobello

It is a house called Casa d'Amore, which sounds like "House of Love," but... The house actually got its name from its first owner, Francesco d'Amore. So, it has nothing to do with romantic love.

Alberobello

The house was built in 1797 and has an irregular ground plan. It is interesting because it represents a transitional architectural phase from the rustic trullo to a palace. The building is made of bricks, while mortar was also used in its construction, but the roof is made of thin limestone slabs, so in that aspect, it resembles a trullo.

On Piazza del Popolo, there is also a beautiful municipal building, which has nothing to do with trulli, but this is just to show that there are other types of buildings in Alberobello as well.

Alberobello

One of the different types of buildings is the main church in Alberobello – the Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian.

Alberobello

The church was built in 1882 on the site of a 17th-century chapel. On the outside, it appears extremely impressive, partly due to its location, while inside, there is a sense of peace and elegance.

Alberobello

In order to visit another significant trullo, you need to pass right by this church, while Trullo Sovrano is located a little farther. It is the only two-story trullo in Alberobello, which has since been turned into a museum.

Alberobello

This trullo was built in the first half of the 18th century. The upper floor is accessed by an internal staircase and interestingly, these are some of the first stairs made using mortar. The reason this is interesting is that trulli were traditionally built without mortar, using the a secco technique or the so-called drywall. The original owner was a priest and later the building was used as a courthouse, chapel, grocery shop, monastery and as a private residence. Today, it is owned by the Sumerano family. It is also significant that in 1785, the relics of Saints Cosmas and Damian, the patrons of the town, were temporarily housed here. The highest part of the trullo is the domed roof above the room on the upper floor, with its peak rising to a height of 14 m.

Alberobello

Based on what I have read, it is definitely worth it for a visitor to go inside and see the trullo in that way. However, it was closed during my visit, so I could only explore it from the outside a bit.

Alberobello

Now I descended to the train station, and soon I was on the local train that took me to Martina Franca. I had already mentioned that trulli are most prevalent in the Itria Valley and this railway line practically took me through that valley. Besides a lot of fields, olive groves and vineyards, I often saw trulli along the way as well.

Alberobello

The train station in Martina Franca is about 1 km away from the historical centre, so it takes around 15 minutes on foot to reach the main destination. You also have to walk a bit uphill, but it's nothing dramatic. Along the way, you pass through the newer parts of the town, but when I say "newer," that doesn't mean buildings from the 21st century made of glass and metal.

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Close to the historical centre, I passed by an ice-cream parlour that had a sticker on the door showing it was part of a professional network of gelato makers (Artisti del Gelato), who use 100% natural ingredients for their products. Of course, I had to stop there. I got two scoops of ice-cream – one was a combination of bergamot and ginger, and the other a combination of almonds and figs. Ooh... what a delight that was!

Martina Franca

Near this ice-cream parlour, I noticed a kind of an urban flea market, so I took a little stroll through it. Not because I was particularly interested in buying anything, but more to see what it was like and to get a sense of the local customs.

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Then, I made my way to the historical centre through the Villa Garibaldi town park.

Martina Franca

The old town or the historical centre of Martina Franca is full of narrow, winding streets, and there are several larger and smaller squares. There are multiple ways to enter this area, but I decided to start with what is almost the "main entrance," which is from Piazza XX Settembre. The square is lined with trees, and it all leads towards the Santo Stefano gate (Porta Santo Stefano).

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

As soon as you pass through the gate, you arrive at another square – Piazza Roma, where there is also a 17th-century palace – Palazzo Ducale.

Martina Franca

Within the town, there are many interesting churches, palaces and monasteries, and I made an effort to visit all or almost all of them. However, the main beauty of the town comes from its streets and squares, as well as the various details that can be observed there. I believe it's more than enough to simply wander aimlessly through this part of the town and a visitor would be completely satisfied with the experience.

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

I started by following the main route from Porta Santo Stefano and soon I arrived at a square – Piazza Plebiscito.

Martina Franca

While walking through the town, I arrived here a bit later as well and I photographed it again when the sun was in a different position. So, I will now use photographs from both series (this may not matter to others, but it does to me).

In the square, there are two significant buildings – one is the University Palace (Palazzo dell’Università) with a clock tower (on the left in the photo below), and the other is the Basilica San Martino (on the right in the photo).

Martina Franca

The name University Palace here has nothing to do with an educational institution. Instead, it comes from a term used in southern Italy to designate the seat of the municipality or local parliament, emphasising the universal nature of such an institution, which was responsible for addressing the needs of all social classes.

At the end of the 15th century, a building on this site was chosen for meetings of the local parliament in Martina Franca. The building underwent significant alterations between 1734 and 1761, in line with the dominant Baroque style of the time, while a clock tower was also built. The second floor was added in the 19th century.

University Palace

University Palace, a detail

University Palace, a detail

The other significant building in this square is the Collegiate Church of St. Martin of Tours, which replaced an older church from the 14th century. The church seen here today was built between 1747 and 1785, although it was consecrated even before the construction was completed.

Collegiate Church of St. Martin of Tours

Collegiate Church of St. Martin of Tours, the interior

Collegiate Church of St. Martin of Tours, the interior

Piazza Plebiscito is connected to another irregularly shaped square, but one that is exceptionally beautiful and charming. This square is called Piazza Maria Immacolata.

Martina Franca

There are no historically significant buildings here, but the place is absolutely magical. Since I saw a few cafes and restaurants, I immediately knew what I would do first, and that can be seen in the next photo.

Martina Franca

As I sat there, I was deeply soaking in the scenes around me – on one side, there were various interesting details, and on the other, the sun and clouds were constantly creating new effects. So, after finishing my coffee, I stayed a little longer to take more photos.

Martina Franca, a detail

Martina Franca

In the next photo, you can see both Piazza Maria Immacolata and the Collegiate Church of St. Martin of Tours.

Martina Franca

Now, I set off for a walk around Martina Franca, searching for some churches, but along the way, I was enjoying the picturesque streets.

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

This led me to the Church of St. Vitus (Chiesa di San Vito), which is one of the oldest churches in the city – it was built at the end of the 13th century and the beginning of the 14th century. The strict facade is made of ashlars, while the bell tower with three arches was added in the 15th century. The church was closed during my visit.

Church of St. Vitus

Then, I took a walk to another locally known church, the Church of St. Dominic (Chiesa di San Domenico), but due to the narrow streets, it was difficult to fully capture it. So, I had to photograph its facade from a side street.

Martina Franca

Church of St. Dominic

This Baroque church was built in 1745 by a Dominican monk and it is connected to the Dominican monastery from the 15th century. The interior of the church is very impressive and beautiful.

Church of St. Dominic, the interior

Church of St. Dominic, the interior

I continued my walk through Martina Franca, but now I had a very important and specific mission. Along the way, however, I couldn’t help but notice the beautiful and picturesque details that Martina Franca has in abundance.

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

Martina Franca

And then, I arrived at the place I was looking for – a nice local restaurant. I could not help myself and my eyes were bigger than my stomach, so I ordered both a serious appetizer and a serious main dish, but in the end, I managed to finish everything.

First, the "snacks" and water arrived.

Lunch in Martina Franca

For the appetizer, I had Apulian pasta – orecchiette in the Bari style (Orecchietta Barese).

Lunch in Martina Franca

And for the main dish – traditional braciole (Brasciola alla tradizione).

Lunch in Martina Franca

Everything was absolutely delicious and afterwards it took me a good few hours to recover because I had eaten so much. However, not for a single moment did I regret it.

I was very pleased with the flat I rented in Bari, mainly because of its location. The fact is that it was a bit farther from Old Bari, but it was very close to the train station as well as the coach terminals. The latter, the coaches, was important to me on the day I left Bari because I used them to get to my new destination – an incredibly charming place called Alberobello.

It was necessary for me to walk uphill a little from the coach stop, which is in the square in front of the Alberobello train station, in order to reach the flat I had rented there, but this didn’t bother me in the slightest. On the contrary, I was quite satisfied. I’m not sure what exactly caused my excellent mood. The truth is, Italy usually evokes the most beautiful possible feelings in me that I can associate with a country, which I must admit is quite abstract, but also twisted; however, it’s no less true in my case. On the other hand, I set off on this trip carrying a large backpack. It’s simply easier for me to move around with it, especially since I don’t fill it completely (it weighed about 9 kg when I measured it at the airport). The bags with wheels have their advantages, but if I have to cover a longer distance, especially on the streets, the noise they make bothers me a lot and, secondly, every time I encounter a curb or steps, I have to carry the bag in my hand, which is difficult and uncomfortable for me. Finally, I move much slower with it. So, the backpack is the right choice for me. Moreover, it was important that I didn’t mind walking at all while carrying it on my back, and I actually felt quite light, which made me especially happy.

All in all, in such a mood, I briefly stopped and took a selfie.

I have arrived in Alberobello

Alberobello is known as a place where there are a large number of houses known as trulli (the singular is "trullo" and the plural is "trulli"). These houses can be found throughout Apulia, but their concentration here in such a small area is almost unbelievable. In fact, maybe it isn’t. There is a lot of stone in Apulia and people were poor for centuries, so they used the materials that were easily accessible to them and also employed a prehistoric technique to build their houses, without using mortar. That is, the houses have what is called a drywall. The houses seen here today are mostly whitewashed, but the roofs stand out, where you can easily see the beautifully arranged stone slabs. As people became more economically prosperous, especially in the 20th century, this type of construction lost its importance, but the remaining examples have become cultural monuments. To such an extent that they are recognised and acknowledged on a global scale. In fact, the Trulli of Alberobello are on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

The largest number of these houses are concentrated in two neighbourhoods – Monti and Aia Piccola – but such houses can be seen throughout the town and I noticed a few of them as I was heading towards the flat I had rented here for two days.

I had arranged with the owner when I would arrive, which was before the official check-in time, as the flat needed to be cleaned and prepared for me as the new tenant. However, this incredibly kind woman told me I could come earlier because she would be there and I could leave my things. And that’s exactly what happened – she gave me the key right away and said she would let me know when the apartment was completely ready.

I used that time to go for a nice coffee, which turned out to be a good choice since it was raining lightly for a while, so I wouldn't have gone sightseeing anyway. When the flat owner told me that it was ready, I went there to grab what I needed for my first, initial exploration of the town.

However, I had to take some photos of the apartment first. I rarely take photos of the places I stay in, because it’s usually not important, and I’m just there to sleep for a night or two. But this place was fantastic. By chance, I had rented (at quite a reasonable price) a space that could comfortably accommodate at least 3-4 people. That wasn't particularly important to me, but the beauty of the space and ultimately the fact that I was staying in one of the traditional trulli houses, was especially dear to my heart.

Rented flat in Alberobello

In the neighbourhoods of Monti and Aia Piccola, most of the houses have been adapted to meet the needs of tourists – whether they are places to stay, converted into souvenir shops, restaurants, cafes, etc. However, staying in this part of Alberobello comes at a price and it’s quite high. That’s not for me. This way, I managed to get the best of both worlds, which is a rather rare occurrence in life.

My bedroom in Alberobello

Soon, I set off for a walk and by one of the central streets, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, I reached Piazza del Popolo. As can be seen, Alberobello also has "normal" buildings, too.

Alberobello

Not far from this square, there is also a viewpoint offering an excellent view of the Monti neighbourhood and its trulli houses.

Alberobello

As I travelled around Apulia in the following days, looking through the windows of the trains that took me from place to place, I couldn't stop admiring the incredibly hardworking people of this part of Italy. I concluded that they are exceptionally industrious based on my observations of the fields. In them, you can still see pieces of stone in the soil, but they are relatively small. The larger stones have evidently been removed from the land by the hardworking people of Apulia over the centuries, so they could cultivate it. From these larger stones, they built miles and miles of fences between plots, usually with fields, olive groves and vineyards. Additionally, larger pieces of limestone were extracted from the fields and roughly shaped into stone slabs, which were used to build houses. Particularly impressive are those pyramidal, semi-circular or dome-shaped roofs made by using corbelled limestone slabs. This can also be seen in the following photograph.

Alberobello

But, as I’ve mentioned, such houses can be seen throughout Alberobello and I wanted to go and grab something to eat first. I left the visit to the Monti neighbourhood for a little later and now I had moved from the more modern part of the town into the Aia Piccola neighbourhood. There, I reached Casa Lippolis, which was built as a private residence at the end of the 18th century by the local archpriest Vitonofrio Lippolis.

Alberobello

Alberobello

Nearby, I found a restaurant I liked, so I sat down there. I first ordered a very tasty Limoncello Spritz, which is quite rare for me – in the sense that I usually don’t drink alcohol during the day. However, I was so wonderfully relaxed that I enjoyed being a little "naughty." After all, the flat and the room were quite close, so I wasn’t too worried. Besides, I needed to refresh myself a little.

Limoncello Spritz in Alberobello

Soon, the food arrived. For an appetizer, I had burrata. It’s a cheese typical of Apulia, made from cow's milk, as a combination of mozzarella and cream. I absolutely love it, so it was only logical that I would eat it often while here.

Burrata in Alberobello

For the main course, I had octopus with roasted cherry tomatoes.

Octopus in Alberobello

It was a wonderful lunch and I enjoyed every moment of it. I didn’t even mind that my head was spinning a bit. When I finished eating and gathered enough strength to get up, it was clear to me that I first needed to go to my room to rest a bit. On the way, I treated myself to a delicious ice-cream. Since I walk a lot during my travels, I have to make sure I get enough calories. That’s how I justified the current events to myself.

Ice-cream in Alberobello

And so, I returned to the rented flat and rested a bit there. I couldn’t really sleep, but that wasn’t my goal; I just wanted to lie down and wait for the spinning in my head to calm down. Of course, that happened over time, so I got up, got ready and went outside for a walk.

By now, I had already found a "shortcut" from the flat I was staying in to the main street and there were more trulli houses there as well.

Alberobello

Alberobello

I headed back to the wonderful viewpoint I had been to earlier, but the views were so beautiful that I didn’t mind enjoying them again. Besides, the weather had changed a little – there were still some clouds, but there was more sunshine coming from our star that was gradually setting towards the horizon, so the colours were a bit different.

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

I then descended to the large square, which is marked as a park, although it is mostly a paved space. It is called Parco Largo Martelotta and the name actually comes from the street that runs through it, called Largo Martelotta. This street practically separates one hill with a more modern part of the town (including the viewpoint) and the area of the former village of Aia Piccola, where there are also trulli (about 590 of them), and another hill, Monti, which I now intended to explore. It is on this second hill that the main concentration of trulli (about 1,030) is found and I wanted mostly to stroll around there without any particular plans.

As it will turn out I mostly walked through the Monti neighbourhood, while in Aia Piccola, I only visited the outskirts. The main reason for this is that maps don't clearly show which area Aia Piccola covers and it takes quite a bit of searching to find it. In fact, Aia Piccola is simply an extension of the more modern part of the town.

In the next photo, you can see the hill and the direction in which Aia Piccola spreads, while Monti, at the moment I took this picture, is behind me and to the right.

Parco Largo Martelotta

The trulli start right from the square and there are a few main streets that gently rise uphill, connected by smaller cross streets between them. It should be noted that all the streets are winding. The visitor decides where exactly to go, as there is no formal sightseeing route. It all comes down to strolling between picturesque white houses with interesting stone roofs.

Alberobello

Alberobello

Some of the shops have signs inviting passersby and tourists to visit because they offer the opportunity to climb onto the roof, which provides a beautiful view. In this way, these shops hope to increase their sales.

I quickly came across one such place, so I climbed up to the roof. It was really nice, interesting and provided a different perspective.

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

Needless to say, I had to take a selfie as well!

Selfie in Alberobello

Then, I returned to the main street and continued uphill. Soon, I ventured into some of the side alleys.

Alberobello

Alberobello

The situation in the side streets was a bit different. There, you could still see functional trulli, but they weren’t necessarily set up for tourists and I don’t remember seeing any shops there either.

Alberobello

On the other hand, it seemed like people really lived there, rather than everything being prepared for tourists and tailored to their needs.

Alberobello

It was lovely to see some picturesque detail, and that happened often, like plants in a planter by the entrance or a flowerpot in a niche that seemed to have been made just for that purpose.

Alberobello

Alberobello

When I got home and was organising my photos, I noticed that I had taken pictures of some of the trulli a couple of times – once when I first passed by them and then again when I came back down the same street. But it didn’t bother me. In fact, it only confirmed that those little houses had really caught my eye.

Alberobello

In one case, I really liked how the roofs were connected on one of the trulli, with a stone gutter in between to direct the water when it rains.

Alberobello

On some of the trulli, the roof is clearly placed and starts from the top of the walls, but on others, that’s not the case. As can be seen in the next photograph, it looks like the roof spills over the house.

Alberobello

Alberobello

I occasionally ventured into smaller alleys that were often dead ends, and then I would return to the main street and cross over to another main street through a side lane. But I did all of this without any particular order and that was exactly how it should be. At every turn, there were similar, yet different sights, and all of them were beautiful.

Alberobello

Alberobello

I came to a slightly wider main street that went uphill, Via Monte San Michele, and it was especially beautiful how the sunlight added to the charm of the space.

Alberobello

Although the houses were still charming and picturesque, with the disappearance of direct sunlight, everything turned into mere commercial entertainment for tourists.

Alberobello

And yet, here and there, you could spot various beautiful details that might serve to attract tourists, but they certainly also please the people who live or work here.

Alberobello

I had now climbed to the end of the street, which had turned into Via Monte Pertica, and there, across from the local park, I found a trullo-church – the Church of Saint Antonio. Here, even the church was built in the trullo style.

Church of Saint Antonio

I went inside and took a little tour of the church. It was interesting to see the dome, which was made of stone slabs – using the same technique as the roofs of the surrounding houses.

Church of Saint Antonio

Church of Saint Antonio, a detail

After visiting the church, I started to head back down the street I had come from. Once again, the sun was on my side, so the colours and views were absolutely stunning.

Alberobello

Alberobello

Then, I ventured again into some other side streets, smaller and more hidden, but they were no less picturesque.

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

Alberobello

And so, I returned to the wide space between the two hills – the Parco Largo Martelotta.

Alberobello

However, as I passed a few streets leading up to the Monti hill, it felt like a call – I had to go back, even if just for a short while, to wander through these streets and among the beautifully picturesque trulli.

Alberobello

Alberobello

But, I didn’t stay too long. I wanted to return to the flat, which was near the Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian, the towers of which can be seen in the distance in the photo below.

Alberobello

A little later, I returned to the part of the town where I was staying and on the way, I stopped by a grocery store to buy what I needed.

Alberobello

Since I had a nice lunch that day, I decided to have something light and improvised for dinner. Being in Apulia, it only made sense that I wanted to have burrata again, but it would have been silly to just eat cheese. Oh, yes. It was a perfectly good and light dinner.

Improvised dinner in Alberobello

After a short afternoon rest in the flat I had rented during my brief stay in Bari, I set out for another walk, but I also realised that I was a bit hungry. Not too much, but enough to want to eat something and feel satisfied afterwards.

On this occasion, I decided to combine "the pleasant and the useful" – I went to the promenade by the sea (Lungomare Nazario Sauro), which is often mentioned as an interesting place to visit.

However, I first went to eat at a place that was recommended to me. My impression was that, like in many other cities around the world, street food in Bari has gained popularity in recent years and with that, its quality, creativity and variety have improved. One of the specialties offered here was an octopus sandwich. As soon as the food arrived, I realised I was actually quite hungry, so without any hesitation, I ate it all right away. It was excellent!

Late lunch in Bari

As for the promenade by the sea, well... its main advantage is that it’s by the sea and quite wide, so walking there is definitely pleasant.

Bari, a detail

On the other side of the street, you can see very beautiful "palaces," as well as numerous cafés and restaurants, so a walk by the sea can be both enjoyable and inspiring in many ways.

Bari, a detail

Although I only had a "sandwich," it was more than enough for me and now I was just strolling leisurely along the sea towards the old town of Bari, which is simply called Bari Vecchia.

Bari, a detail

By the time I reached one of the main squares in the old part of the city, Piazza Mercantile, and had a nice, cold and large beer, the evening was already slowly starting to fall. I didn't take a photo of the beer on purpose, because it wasn't local, but once I had settled into the café, I was too lazy to get up for such a detail. So, a little later, I took a photo of the square and then went back into the streets of the old town.

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

However, although it was still a bit early, my short afternoon rest hadn’t been enough to make up for the little sleep I had the night before, so I decided to head slowly back to the rented flat. For that, I mostly used one of the central streets that is mainly pedestrian (Via Sparano). Its primarily commercial nature doesn't diminish the beauty of the buildings and details.

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

The next day, I decided to be "lazy" in the morning. I had no reason to rush, and that would practically remain the case throughout this entire trip. I came to Apulia for two weeks, primarily considering that I would be travelling from place to place mostly by public transport, which takes more time. Two weeks might have even been too much for my version of sightseeing. On the other hand, I have no problem killing time in Italy – besides the beautiful sights, whether it's nature or human settlements, there’s always a pastry shop, a café or a restaurant nearby. And after all, where better to practice the true Italian philosophy of life than here – Dolce far niente!!! Literally translated: "It’s sweet to do nothing."

In fact, that morning, my little portable computer was causing me some trouble, so I got tangled up in that. In the end, I gave up and finally set out for a walk. I went back to the old town and aimlessly wandered through the charming streets and squares, full of picturesque details.

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

And then, I went to a place to get lunch for myself. It’s a famous spot that makes and sells an Apulian specialty to go – Focaccia Barese (Bari-style focaccia). However, first, I had to wait in a long line.

Bari, a detail

When it was my turn, I had to be quick to take a photo of what was happening. The people working there are very efficient and there's no time to waste because there are more interested customers waiting outside. They packed my focaccia nicely, which I planned to eat in the flat before heading out for a short trip.

On my way back to the flat, I had to stop at a place to take a photo of something I had noticed the day before. Near the entrance to the old town, there is a "machine" where you can buy water by bringing your own container. There are three types of water available: cold still, lightly sparkling and microfiltered sparkling water, and you can choose either 1 l or 3 l. I think it's a really nice idea.

Bari, a detail

Then, I returned to the flat and had the focaccia for lunch. It was really excellent. Enough to make me want to try making it myself when I got back home. Here’s the result and the recipe:

Focaccia Barese done in my way

FOCACCIA BARESE

• 500 g flour for pizza
• 1 medium sized potato
• 300 ml tepid water
• 20 g fresh yeast
• a pinch of sugar
• 1 tsp of salt
• 20 ml olive oil
• 350 g fresh tomato (cherry tomato is the best in this case)
• olives (without pits)
• olive oil
• oregano

First, the potato needs to be boiled in its skin. Once it is well cooked, peel it and mash it finely. Dissolve the fresh yeast in a little lukewarm water, adding sugar to activate the yeast. Combine the mashed potatoes with flour, yeast and salt, and add the rest of the water. Also, add olive oil. The dough will be very sticky, but it should be kneaded for about 10 minutes.

Let the dough rise for 1-2 hours, then knead it again for about 10 minutes. It will still be quite sticky, but a little less. Then, place it in an oiled bowl, cover it and leave it for at least 12 hours. In other words, the dough should be prepared the evening before making the focaccia and the bowl should be placed in the fridge.

The next day, place the dough in an oiled baking tray, then use oiled fingers to stretch it across the tray, also making indentations in the dough. Arrange halved tomatoes and olives on top. Sprinkle with oregano, a little salt, and drizzle with olive oil. Let it rise for half an hour, then bake in a preheated oven (250°C).

After the lovely lunch in Bari, I went on a "trip." I actually went to the town of Polignano a Mare. It’s about a half-hour train ride south from Bari.

Polignano a Mare is considered one of the many charming small towns along the Apulian coast of the Adriatic Sea. It is especially famous for its limestone cliffs that rise about 20 m high and stretch along this part of the coastline, with the town built above these cliffs. Due to the constant movement of the sea and waves, caves have been carved into the cliffs over time, adding to the picturesque nature of the place.

I first went to a lookout by the sea in order to get a better view of what was going on, but when I arrived, everything was surrounded by a temporary high wire construction fence because some kind of work was being done. In fact, at that moment, there was no one around, but it was clear that something was being built or repaired there. I found a convenient spot where I could slip my phone through the fence and just as I was about to take some pictures, a local guide appeared with a couple of tourists. He simply moved part of the fence so they could walk to the stone wall that exists above the sea. I asked if I could pass through briefly to take photos as well and he agreed. Everything went smoothly and quickly. Here are the pictures (they turned out much better than if I had taken them through the construction fence):

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

In the photo above, on the left-hand side, you can see the famous Grotta Ardito delle Caldaie cave, and here’s a closer shot of it. You can better notice the beautiful colours of the sea at this spot.

Polignano a Mare

I thanked the guide and then I started walking down the street that runs along the coast.

Polignano a Mare

Then, I wandered into the town, heading west towards the historical centre of Polignano a Mare (Centro Storico Polignano a Mare) along a street that runs straight, but essentially follows the coastline. From this street, shorter alleys regularly lead to viewpoints where you can once again enjoy the beauty of this coastline.

Polignano a Mare

But, the houses you can see here are no less interesting and charming. On the contrary.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

In the meantime, it started to rain. Sometimes lightly and sparsely, and at other times a bit more heavily. I hadn’t brought an umbrella with me, so I had to be careful when taking photos with both my phone and camera in order to make sure they didn’t get too wet.

Polignano a Mare

The rain briefly stopped just as I reached Piazza San Benedetto. As it can be seen in the next photo, the temperature was quite pleasant (judging by the clothes of the people), after all, it was the first half of September.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

And then, it started to rain a bit harder again. I wasn't the only one without an umbrella, but it didn’t bother me too much, except when it came to taking photos. Some people, however, decided to hide for a while and wait for the rain to pass.

Polignano a Mare

The only thing I had to be careful about was walking slowly in order to avoid slipping on the wet, polished stone slabs that cover the streets, but that didn’t stop me from noticing interesting and picturesque details.

Polignano a Mare

And then I reached a viewpoint at the far northern tip, from where I could see the cliffs on which the town is built to the east, as well as the rocky coastline to the west of the town centre.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

After a short break for photography, I once again wandered into the picturesque streets, but only for a little while. I had to head to a viewpoint on the western side of the historical centre in Polignano a Mare.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

On the western side of the town's historical centre, there is a fenced terrace that offers a beautiful view of a small pebble beach nestled between the rocky cliffs, known as Lama Monachile.

Polignano a Mare, view at Lama Monachile beach

Polignano a Mare, view at Lama Monachile beach

While I was standing here and taking photos, a few people were jumping into the water from the rock to the west of the beach. In the next picture, you can see a woman in the middle of her "leap."

Polignano a Mare

After this, I went to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, where I sat down and had a coffee. From the place where I was relaxing, I had a nice view of the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption (Chiesa Madre Santa Maria Assunta), but there were preparations going on for a funeral, i.e., for the mass before the burial, so I decided to return later to visit the church.

For now, I headed towards the exit from the historical centre of Polignano a Mare, while near the Old Gate (Porta Vecchia), I took a few photos of some interesting details.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

From there, I started to walk along the street leading west and from the bridge that crosses the gorge at the end of which there is a beach, I was able to see everything from a different angle. If you look closely at the next photo, you can see the terrace-viewpoint in the upper right-hand corner, from where I previously took pictures of Lama Monachile beach.

Polignano a Mare

Now, I went to a spacious square that continues from Largo Gelso and from there, I first headed to a spot where you can get a nice view of the historic centre of the town, perfect for observing and taking photos.

Polignano a Mare

Although the previous picture also shows the terrace with the great viewpoint, here it is again, a little closer. It definitely has to be a must-see spot for every visitor to this charming town.

Polignano a Mare

From here, I also took a photo of a part of the rocky coastline and decided to head down there.

Polignano a Mare

Meanwhile, the rain had completely stopped and while I was here capturing what seemed interesting to me, the clouds parted slightly and the sun’s rays broke through, creating a very dramatic scene for a moment.

Polignano a Mare

On this plateau, there is also a monument to the famous Italian singer Domenico Modugno, who was born right here in Polignano a Mare.

Monument to Domenico Modugno

Perhaps his name doesn’t sound familiar to everyone, but his most famous song, I believe, is one of those melodies that will live forever. I immediately thought of that song, of course, and also realised I knew most of its lyrics. What else could I do but record Mlog No. 10?

I really know how to entertain myself well!

After recording my singing, I made my way down to the rocky coastline and spent some more time enjoying the scenery while also taking a few more photos. I even took advantage of some good-sized rocks where I could place my camera in order to take a picture of myself. That’s always fun!

Polignano a Mare

Me in Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare, a detail

All that singing made me thirsty, so I headed back to the plateau and sat down at a café.

Polignano a Mare

After a lovely break, I headed back towards the historic centre of Polignano a Mare and in the next picture, you can see the bridge that crosses the gorge with the beach.

Polignano a Mare

By now, the day was drawing to a close and the colours were different, which also inspired me to capture the moment.

Polignano a Mare

I once again wandered into the old part of town, mainly to visit the church, but along the way, I took photos of various details. Some of them already had the evening lights turned on.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

I made my way back to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II and now I could finally enter the church.

Polignano a Mare

Polignano a Mare

I’ve already mentioned that it is the Church of Saint Mary of the Assumption.

Polignano a Mare

After visiting the church, I left the old part of the town once again and headed towards the train station.

Polignano a Mare

Soon, I was back in Bari and since I had rented a flat near the train station, everything went smoothly and easily. I even had some leftovers from the focaccia barese I had for lunch, so I ate that and didn’t go out that evening. Besides, I needed to rest well because the next day I was starting my journey through Apulia.

Although whenever it comes to Italy, I always think that I should go to my other homeland (I'll explain this on another occasion) at least once a year, that's not the case.

There are two main reasons for this. The first one is that I have already visited this truly wonderful country quite extensively and some of the main tourist destinations even several times. As I like to say, I saw the Sistine Chapel before the restoration, when the restoration was halfway through, and when it was completed. And each time I enjoyed it – the Sistine Chapel, Rome and all of Italy.

The second reason is that this world, in addition to being beautiful, is also vast. Although I travel quite intensively, there are so many marvellous and interesting destinations that even with the best of intentions, it's impossible to be everywhere at every moment. At least, I haven't mastered that skill yet.

But, despite all of this, I often think of Italy and always have ideas about where, when and so on. And so it happened that I bought a return plane ticket to Bari for September 2024 with intention of spending two weeks exploring Apulia, the region in the south of the country shaped like the "heel of the Italian boot," which is also often called Puglia.

Let me clarify the name of the region right away: Italians call their region Puglia, but Apulia is widely used internationally. The region was originally called Apulia during the Roman times, but the name changed in Italian over time due to the development of the language, specifically the dialect used in this part of the country. From what I've seen, both names can be used, but I assume Apulia is more accurate, so I will use this term. When I speak Italian, I say "Puglia." So everything is in its place.

My initial idea was to spend a few days in Bari as a pedestrian, then rent a car to visit the places I wanted to see. However, a few months before the trip, a friend of mine was in Apulia, and while talking about his experience, I realised it would be better to get around Apulia using public transport. First – I like public transport. Second – since I was interested in cities and places that are mostly well-connected by public transport, I realised it would be pointless to rent a car only for it to be parked somewhere. Additionally, I’ve always found it annoying to look for parking space in unfamiliar places and using public transport would solve that detail. On the other hand, I took my driver’s license with me because I also wanted the option to rent a car if I decided to visit some villages near a city.

So, that was the basic travel concept, while what I ultimately saw and visited during the trip can be seen on the next map.

To begin with, one early morning, I took a flight from Belgrade to Bari. I tried to sleep on the plane, but it was completely unsuccessful.

After landing at the international airport in Bari, I easily navigated my way and took a train to the main railway station in the centre of Bari. There, I immediately went to the left luggage office and left my large backpack, so I could move around the city more easily.

I could only enter the flat I rented for my stay in Bari at 3 in the afternoon, which meant I had a few free hours. It seemed pointless to sit at the train station, so I came up with the idea to take a short walk around the area near the station with just my small backpack.

When I stepped out onto the square in front of the station, I immediately felt a wave of happiness that I had arrived in Italy. Whether it was the air, the sun or my imagination – I had the feeling as if I could recognise this country at first sight.

Bari, square in front of the main railway station

However, I was very tired and heavy because I hadn't slept enough and I had woken up at the crack of dawn for the early flight. So, I immediately sat down at a café on a pedestrian street that leads from the main train station to the old part of Bari, and there I ordered a coffee and some pastry to serve as an addition to my breakfast.

Break in Bari

Since my plan was to spend 2 weeks in Italy and I wasn't coming from a country that belongs to the European Union, I thought it would be a good idea to buy a SIM card, since I have a mobile phone where I can insert a second card. This way, I would ensure a constant internet connection, which definitely makes travelling easier and helps in gathering information about timetables and so on. The problem was that it was Sunday and most stores were closed.

So, I decided to take a walk and inquire if there were any other places where I could buy a SIM card, not just in stores of the major providers. Along the way, I also passed by a food kiosk, but what caught my attention the most was how the word "kiosk" is written in Italian – "il chiosco."

Bari, a detail

Traditionally, Italians are not known for speaking foreign languages, but I think this is changing in the modern world, especially with the advent of the internet. On the other hand, I didn’t have much of a problem with this – although I had become somewhat rusty, I practically used only Italian, not English, throughout the trip, and everything went great. It wasn’t the level of knowledge I once had, but I was still satisfied.

As I’ve mentioned, the wide street that leads straight from the train station to the old part of the city is pedestrian, but it is crossed by relatively narrow streets where cars go in one direction or the other, so one has to be mindful of that.

Bari, a detail

After a certain period of time, about 1 km farther away, the street reaches a wide cross street where cars drive, and the old town practically starts on the other side. There, I found a beautiful row of palm trees, and a little further, I could see the Teatro Margherita, which was once a theatre, but has been a museum since 1979.

Bari, a detail

Yet, I first went to the Tourist Information Office, and they told me where in the centre I could definitely find a store that sells phones and SIM cards that was open on Sundays. This meant I had to walk around a bit more, but in the end, I got the job done and was content. Now I had internet access all the time and, as I had assumed, it did make travelling around Apulia much easier.

This also meant that I could return to the old town in Bari (Bari Vecchia) and casually stroll through its narrow and picturesque streets.

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Like all of Italy, Apulia is known for its pasta, with the most typical pasta here being orecchiette, which means "little ears," simply because the shape resembles small ears. Accordingly, in the old town of Bari, you can see and buy pasta made in this version (but in different sizes) on the street, along with other shapes of pasta. All of it looks exceptionally colourful, but certainly also very attractive.

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

The pasta and laundry hanging and drying above the street – is there anything that reminds you of Italy more?

Bari, a detail

Well, probably high-quality, artisanal ice-cream (gelato artigianale) falls into the same category – a typical, top-tier symbol of Italy. I found a well-known local gelateria and stopped by, but I had the classic problem – how to choose two or three flavours when everything on offer looks so tempting. I came up with a solution to this problem by deciding to have ice-cream every day, and although I wouldn't be in the same place, I would try to choose something different each time. Here’s how I started:

Bari, a detail

To avoid making a mess, I sat in the shade and leisurely enjoyed my ice-cream, then continued my walk through the old part of Bari.

This was all happening in the immediate vicinity of one of Bari's famous landmarks, the Swabian Castle (Castello Svevo). The fortress was built by the Norman kings around 1132, but it was reconstructed and strengthened in 1233, with massive bastions added in the 16th century. However, I must admit that on this occasion, I wasn’t interested in touring the remains of the medieval castle and preferred to stroll leisurely instead. But I did take a photo of it from the corner.

Bari, a detail

Not far from this spot, I came close to the Cathedral San Sabino.

Surroundings and the Cathedral San Sabino

The cathedral was originally built on this site in the 11th and 12th centuries as a Romanesque structure, but it was destroyed in the mid-12th century. By the end of that same century and during the 13th century, the church we see today was built. Although it is less famous than the Basilica of St. Nicholas (Basilica di San Nicola), it is certainly superior to the latter.

Cathedral San Sabino

But, in order to visit the interior of the church, an entrance fee must be paid. For me, paying an entrance fee to visit a church is more of a matter of principle than money. Only in very rare cases am I willing to break that principle and pay to enter and visit a church. I simply believe that everything related to churches, both their exterior and interior, belongs to everyone – after all, that’s why they were built. If entry to churches could be free for everyone up until just a decade ago, I don't see why it shouldn't still be the case. I can agree that visitors should be required to show respect (in every way), but that would be all.

So, in this case, I only walked around the cathedral, took some photos of details and continued on.

Cathedral San Sabino

Cathedral San Sabino

The walk took me through the endlessly picturesque streets of old Bari, while occasionally I would peek into a courtyard.

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Then, I came to a place where, alongside orecchiette, red hot peppers were being advertised and sold. The images were beautiful!

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Soon, since old Bari isn’t very large, I arrived at probably the most important building in the city, the Basilica of St. Nicholas (Basilica di San Nicola).

Basilica of St. Nicholas

The basilica was built between 1087 and 1197, and although it has been reconstructed several times, it is now considered the most striking example of Romanesque architecture in Apulia. Its façade appears quite simple, but there are still elements on it that are beautifully crafted, with the main doorway standing out in particular.

Basilica of St. Nicholas, a detail

No entry fee is charged here (at least they hadn't started charging as of September 2024), so I went in and gladly walked around the church, admiring the various, exceptionally elegant and beautifully crafted details. The transverse arches, added in the 15th century, stand out in particular and appear relatively unusual.

Basilica of St. Nicholas, the interior

Basilica of St. Nicholas, the interior

Basilica of St. Nicholas, the interior

This church is one of the most significant in the entire Christian world and serves as an equally important pilgrimage destination for both Catholics and Orthodox Christians. The reason for this is that in the crypt of the church lies the tomb containing the relics of St. Nicholas.

Basilica of St. Nicholas, the crypt

St. Nicholas (c. 270 to c. 345) was the Bishop of Myra in the historical region of Lycia, in what is nowadays Turkiye. He died and was buried there. However, in the second half of the 11th century, Byzantium, to which Myra then belonged, was under heavy pressure from the Seljuk Empire and it was likely because of this that an "issue" arose concerning the security of the relics of the great saint. In any case, according to the most frequently mentioned version of the events, sailors from Bari stole the relics and transported them to their city. Since then, they have remained there, and both pilgrims and curious visitors can descend into the crypt, where, behind a metal-barred fence, they can see the tomb of this famous saint.

Basilica of St. Nicholas, tomb with the relics of St. Nicholas

When I exited the basilica, I started walking around it to admire it from different angles. On the northern side, there is the richly decorated Lions’ Doorway, so I wanted to take a look at that as well.

Basilica of St. Nicholas, a detail

One of the problems I encountered throughout this trip was the fact that almost all the places I had reserved for accommodation officially allowed new guests to check in only after 3 pm. Granted, I managed to arrange early check-ins at a few places, at least to leave my things and pick up the key later, but in Bari, the owner of the flat I had rented was firm – no entry before 3 pm. That’s why I went for this informal sightseeing tour, as I couldn’t just sit in cafés and keep drinking coffee or other beverages. In addition, after the ice-cream, I wasn’t hungry anymore. Fortunately, I had left my large backpack at the left luggage office at the train station, so I was walking around with just my small backpack, but in my case, that didn’t make things much easier – my small backpack is comparatively heavier than the large one.

Anyway, the time passed and after visiting the Basilica of St. Nicholas, I started heading back towards the train station. On the one hand, I needed to pick up my large backpack, and on the other hand, the flat I had rented was nearby.

However, I decided to take a different route and ended up seeing a few more interesting places and landmarks. First, I walked to one of the main squares in old Bari – Piazza Mercantile, from where I briefly retreated into the picturesque narrow streets of the old town again.

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

I passed by the Tourist Information Office again and nearby was the former theatre – Teatro Margherita, which is now a museum.

Bari, a detail

A little further on is the building of the branch of the Bank of Italy (Banca d’Italia), while right next to it is the largest theatre in Italy – Teatro Petruzzelli.

Bari, a detail

Bari, a detail

Then, I wandered into the newer part of the city and I was intrigued to see the oleander trees (!) that lined the streets. I used to have an oleander on my balcony, but it could only grow to the size of a bush there.

Bari, a detail

After a while, feeling quite tired, I made my way back to the place where I had started my tour of Bari – the square in front of the main train station with the fountain. I quickly took a photo of it and then continued to the left luggage office to pick up my large backpack.

Bari, a detail

Soon, I was at the rented flat, where I first took a shower and then lay down for a nap. It was necessary for me to rest. On the one hand, I had gotten up very early, while on the other, the temperature in Bari that day was quite high, so I wasn’t too happy about having to walk around tired in the heat and strong sun.

Luckily, the flat and the bed were very comfortable, so I could finally relax.

For years, if not decades, I had wanted to visit Devil's Town (Đavolja Varoš). But every time the subject came up, I was told that getting there required walking 7–8 km each way. Walking through nature has never really been a problem, especially when I was in better shape, but no one I knew ever organised a trip there and I myself had never travelled to that part of Serbia.

This time, while I was staying in Blace, I decided to finally change that. First, I found out that there is actually a parking lot from which it is only about 800 m to the Devil's Town site. Then, while I was still in Belgrade, I asked Sonja if she would be interested in this little excursion and she immediately agreed. It turned out that Jasna had had the very same idea, while Tanja, the only one of the four of us who had already been there before, needed no convincing at all. So, everything fell perfectly into place.

And so, after visiting the Ajdanovac Monastery, the four of us continued south by car, passing also through Kuršumlija, a town that really deserves a visit of its own. About 65 km from the Ajdanovac Monastery, we arrived at the parking area, where there is also a large entrance gate through which visitors continue on foot towards the Devil's Town site and the protected natural area.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

The four of us passed through the gate and reached the area where tickets and official souvenirs are sold, and where there is also a restaurant. From there, we continued on towards Devil's Town itself.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

At first, the path is paved with concrete, but only for a very short distance. It soon gives way to wooden footbridges and a simple dirt trail winding through the forest, while numerous sculptures can also be seen along the way.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

But first, let me first say a few words about this remarkable site.

Đavolja varoš or Devil's Town is one of Serbia's most famous natural phenomena and it is located on Mount Radan, near the town of Kuršumlija. This unique site is renowned for its more than 200 earth-stone pillars, ranging in height from 2 to 15 m, which were formed over time by the natural process of erosion. At the top of most pillars sits a large rock that protects the earthen column beneath it from being washed away, creating their distinctive appearance. Albeit very slowly, erosion continues to shape these formations even today, gradually altering their appearance under the influence of natural forces.

Because of its exceptional beauty, geological significance and scientific value, Devil's Town has been designated a protected natural monument. It also represented Serbia in the international New 7 Wonders of Nature campaign. Although it did not make it into the final seven, the nomination significantly increased the site's international recognition.

However, Devil's Town encompasses more than just the famous rock formations. To begin with, the visitor trail follows the course of the Yellow Stream (Žuti potok), the water of which truly has a yellowish-orange to reddish colour. This is not the result of pollution, but rather a natural consequence of the area's unique geological composition.

The water that springs at Devil's Town is exceptionally acidic. One of the springs, known as Devil's Water, has a pH of around 1.5, making it one of the most acidic natural springs in Europe. This is a consequence of ancient volcanic activity. At the same time, the water contains very high concentrations of dissolved iron, aluminium, sulphur and other minerals.

When this water reaches the surface and comes into contact with the air, the iron undergoes a chemical reaction, producing natural iron oxide – essentially rust. This mineral deposit coats the rocks, the streambed and the surrounding soil, giving the water and the sediment their distinctive yellow, orange and reddish hues.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

However, this also indicates that the area once contained deposits of various ores, particularly iron. As a result, visitors can still see the remains of 13th-century mining shafts.

In the Middle Ages, the Saxons, a Germanic people, were regarded throughout Europe as the foremost experts in mining. They possessed extensive knowledge of locating ore deposits, excavating mine shafts, draining mines and processing ore. Because of this expertise, they were in great demand and rulers across Europe often invited them to develop mining industries within their realms.

One such ruler was the Serbian King Stefan Uroš I Nemanjić (c. 1223–1277), who sought to strengthen the economy of his kingdom. He knew that Serbia possessed abundant deposits of silver, gold, copper and iron, but lacked the skilled specialists needed to exploit them efficiently. He therefore invited Saxon miners to Serbia from the then Kingdom of Hungary, where they had already been living and working in the mines.

Today, three medieval mining shafts remain within the Devil's Town site. Only one of them has been explored and it extends for approximately 800 m.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

But, there are also pleasant, open clearings where visitors can sit and rest before continuing their tour of the site.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Before long, we reached another fascinating spring known as the Red Well.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Here the water has a pH value of 3.5, while the large amount of iron it contains quickly oxidises when it comes into contact with the air, colouring the surrounding ground a rusty red.

To show how the water emerges here, I also recorded a short video.

It should also be mentioned that the water from neither of these two springs is suitable for everyday drinking due to its high mineral content and specific composition. However, it represents an interesting natural phenomenon that further contributes to the uniqueness of this area.

Apart from these yellow, orange and red shades, there are also other colours, especially when it comes to wildflowers.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Along the way, we also passed by an old beech tree the roots of which had been almost completely exposed as a result of long-term erosion. As the soil around the tree was gradually washed away by rain, the roots became raised above the ground and took on an unusual shape resembling a huge foot or claw. Because of this appearance, the locals named it Devil's Foot.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

The tree is impressive when viewed from the other side as well.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

And so, we reached the central part of the site, where I first took a photo of my friends.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

The modular staircases leading to Viewpoints 1 and 2 can also be seen here. The ones leading to Viewpoint 2 are higher, so I decided to take those first, because I am the kind of person who prefers to face the bigger challenge right away.

Of course, along the way I had to stop several times to catch my breath, as it was quite hot, but I used those breaks as an opportunity to photograph Devil's Town and its impressive details.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

This way, I reached Viewpoint 2 and from there I had a view of this entire fascinating formation.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

This place is linked with numerous folk legends, while the most famous one tells that the devil wanted to arrange a wedding between a brother and sister in order to bring discord among people. According to the legend, God prevented this sin by turning all the wedding guests into stone. It is because of this story that the site received its name – Devil's Town.

I was very happy that I had finally come here, so I then started taking photos of different details and views from various angles.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

In the meantime, my friends arrived as well, so we took advantage of the presence of some other visitors and took turns photographing each other at the viewpoint.

A small group of visitors to Đavolja Varoš

Actually, I do not have much more to say about this place, but I did take quite a lot of photographs, so here is a selection of them. Naturally, it would be ideal for anyone interested to visit Devil's Town in person.

From the viewpoint, you can also clearly see the part of the site called “Young Devil's Town,” which is a ravine with a smaller number of formations where the erosion process has only just begun. From this side, the slopes of Mount Radan can also be seen.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Then I started making my way down from Viewpoint 2 and along the way I took more photographs, including the staircase leading up to the viewpoint.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

And then, from the base, I looked once again towards the “petrified wedding guests.”

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

The next thing to do was to go up to Viewpoint 1 as well.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Returning to the main path, I also looked towards the ravine where the extremely acidic spring, Devil's Water, is located a little further away. However, I was not really eager to climb over the rocks in ordinary sneakers and in such intense heat.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

I also needed to catch up with my friends, so I started walking down the path, taking one more look towards Devil's Town. A few dozen metres further on, I reached the little bridge that leads to the nearby church.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

One of the legends also says that the formations represent petrified devils that people had carried on their backs for a long time, enduring evil and suffering. And when people spent the night beside the Church of St. Petka, they freed themselves from their demons/devils, which then turned to stone.

St. Petka (St. Paraskeva of the Balkans) is a particularly revered saint throughout the Balkans and is believed to help the sick. There is a belief that if a visitor touches the place that hurts with a white handkerchief and makes a wish, and then ties the handkerchief to one of the pillars, all suffering and troubles (the devils) will remain in Devil's Town. The handkerchiefs stay there for seven days, after which they are buried and thus the suffering remains in the earth forever. Such is the belief.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

I briefly went inside the church and took photos of it once again from the outside, and then my friends and I headed towards the exit of the site.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Along the way, we also passed by what is now a dry streambed and there we noticed that some people had left banknotes tucked under stones, so that they would not blow away. Clearly, there are many different beliefs associated with this place.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

However, this streambed was not completely dry, so some butterflies came there to drink a little water from the damp ground. While I was standing there taking photographs, they decided that my sweat would also be useful to them, because otherwise I have no idea why they would have landed on me. They were specimens of the great banded grayling (Brintesia circe).

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

A little further on, I wanted to photograph my friends again and I guess I can say that they looked like the Three Graces.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

We walked a little further through the forest and alongside the Yellow Stream, and at one point we passed a lush bush of field horsetail (Equisetum arvense).

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

At the entrance/exit, I captured a few more charming details and then the four of us hurried to the car because we wanted to drive to a nearby restaurant, as we were getting hungry.

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Đavolja Varoš, a detail

It turned out that the restaurant located very close to the entrance of the Devil's Town site is a very pleasant and charming place. On the other hand, we had previously seen several cars in the parking area serving the restaurant, but when we arrived, there were no other guests.

To begin with, a wooden bridge leads from the parking area to the restaurant.

Restaurant close to Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Here, I also took photographs of my friends and then the view from the bridge.

My friends – Sonja, Jasna and Tanja

Restaurant close to Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Restaurant close to Đavolja Varoš, a detail

We sat down at one of the tables, the owner soon came over and we ordered what we wanted. Meanwhile, I took some photos around this picturesque traditional-style restaurant.

Restaurant close to Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Restaurant close to Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Restaurant close to Đavolja Varoš, a detail

Restaurant close to Đavolja Varoš, a detail

The food arrived shortly afterwards and it was a wonderful lunch.

Restaurant close to Đavolja Varoš, a detail

The next few days were dedicated to Tanja’s family Slava (celebration of the family’s patron saint’s day). There was wonderful time spent together, cooking and preparing various delicacies, as well as a festive and joyful celebration with family and friends.

The day after the Slava, we began to go our separate ways. Since I had arrived in my own car, I was also returning home on my own, but this time I decided to visit another interesting place that is a cultural monument.

It was the Church of St. Stephen, which is part of the Lepenac Monastery. The village of Lepenac, where the church is located, is about 23.5 km west of Blace and about 6.5 km east of Brus. However, despite knowing all this, I had trouble locating the church.

I asked Tanja’s neighbours and relatives for directions, and most of them knew about the church and the monastery, but they did not know how I could get there because it seemed as if there was no road leading to it.

I decided to improvise, but before that I chose to visit a winery located to the east, but still close to Blace. In fact, I did not even know it was there until the day when I was going with my friends to Ajdanovac Monastery and realised that it was “somewhere nearby.”

This entire area is exceptionally beautiful, with gently rolling terrain and numerous cultivated fields, all interspersed with small groves and not very high mountains in the background.

Surroundings of Blace

This visit to the winery was more a matter of curiosity than because I am really some kind of wine expert. Although, pardon me, I do understand wine very well – either I like it or I don’t.

And so, I drove up to the top of one of the hills, where I found this winery with a very modern building. It stands out quite noticeably from the houses along the way in this area, but modern times, modern habits and business activities also bring modern design.

What interested me more, though, was the beautiful view of the vineyards and the surrounding landscape.

Surroundings of Blace

Surroundings of Blace

And now, I finally returned to the main road leading to Blace, but this time I continued further towards Brus and so I reached the village of Lepenac.

There, I even spotted a sign showing where to turn towards the monastery, so I followed it. The road is narrow and unpaved, and after only about a hundred metres it comes to an end. More precisely, it leads to the bank of the Rasina River and a bridge, but the bridge was clearly not intended for cars. It seemed wide enough, but that was all. I parked my car in the small available space there, photographed the Rasina River and then the bridge as well.

Lepenac, a detail

Lepenac, a detail

I thought that from this side I could not see clearly where the road led on the other side of the bridge, so I set off on foot and was quite surprised to discover that the bridge does not lead anywhere. Well, pardon me, it leads directly to a field.

Completely confused, I turned around and went back to my car.

Lepenac, a detail

Then I noticed a couple of women sitting a little further away in the shade, so I asked them whether it was possible to reach the church and monastery. They said it was and that it was even possible to get there by car, but “if I had a car that could cross the river.” Excuse me???!!!
I decided that my car was better left where it was, so I went back across the bridge and, immediately at the other end, turned onto a very narrow path running between the bank of the Rasina River and the field.

Lepenac, a detail

Soon enough the path came to an end and opened onto a dirt road, and only then did I truly understand and see what those women had been talking about. The church and monastery can indeed be reached by car, but only if the vehicle is an off-road one or a tractor. This is because the road leading to the monastery starts from the riverbed.

I found the whole situation extremely amusing.

Lepenac, a detail

Lepenac, a detail

Lepenac, a detail

From time to time, I looked back and photographed some parts of the village of Lepenac, which is located on the opposite bank of the Rasina River.

Lepenac, a detail

About 500 m after the Rasina River, you reach the monastery.

Lepenac, a detail

When I arrived at the monastery grounds, there was absolutely no one around. However, as it turned out, the church was open.

Church of St. Stephen

It is not known who the ktetor of the Church of St. Stephen was, but it is known that its construction began at the end of the 14th or the beginning of the 15th century, in the style of the Morava architectural school.

However, archaeological research has shown that the original construction was interrupted when the walls were only a few metres high. It was later continued, which is why differences in the masonry techniques can be seen.

The church is over 20 m long and has a trefoil-shaped plan. On the walls, except for the western façade, there are five mullioned windows carved in stone.

Church of St. Stephen, a detail

During the Ottoman period, the monastery suffered damage on several occasions, being destroyed and burned. The most significant conservation and reconstruction work was carried out between 1968 and 1973, giving the church its present-day appearance.

On the western façade of the church, above the entrance door, there is a lunette with a double frame.

Church of St. Stephen, a detail

When I entered, I discovered that some works was underway, so it was a bit “crowded” in the narthex.

Church of St. Stephen, a detail

However, that did not bother me at all, so I was able to walk around the nave and take a closer look at some of the details.

Church of St. Stephen, a detail

Church of St. Stephen, a detail

Church of St. Stephen, a detail

The interior was once richly painted, while only fragments of the frescoes have been preserved to the present day. However, these fragments confirm that the church was once decorated in a highly impressive manner.

Church of St. Stephen, a detail

After visiting the church, I started making my way back along the same route I had taken to get there. Along the way, I noticed that a hiking trail also passes nearby.

Lepenac, a detail

However, what mattered to me was the path alongside the fields, so that I could reach the bridge that way and avoid having to wade through the Rasina River.

Lepenac, a detail

I now drove back towards Blace, but only as far as a large crossroads where I turned toward Kruševac.

As I mentioned in one of the previous instalments of these stories about my journey through southern Serbia, this road runs alongside and across the Ćelije reservoir. Since I had really liked the scenery when I was driving towards Blace, I decided to stop for a coffee this time and enjoy a little the view of the lake and the surrounding area. It was quite hot, so I did not really want to spend too much time on any more extensive sightseeing.

Ćelije Reservoir, a detail

But, let me mention that the reservoir is located near the village of Ćelije, after which it was named. The lake was created by damming the Rasina River, the construction of the dam was completed in 1972, and the reservoir was fully filled in 1979.

The lake is about 12 km long, and its maximum depth is around 41–45 m. It serves as the main source of drinking water for Kruševac and much of the Rasina District, as over time it has been shown that the water quality is exceptionally good.

Various species of fish live in the lake, while more than one hundred bird species have been recorded in the surrounding area, along with a large number of mammals, amphibians, and plant species.

Ćelije Reservoir, a detail

Although tourism is not the lake’s primary purpose, visitors certainly come here, including sport fishermen and it is clear that there is also infrastructure near the shore for controlled barbecuing.

Ćelije Reservoir, a detail

And so, I brought my sightseeing on this wonderful and charming journey to Blace and the surrounding area to an end.

There were interesting places and experiences, there was joyful time spent with wonderful people, there was leisure and all kinds of enjoyment, but now it was time for me to return home. And that is exactly what I did.

Here, as a reminder, is a map showing all the places I visited and everything I explored.

On the way to Blace in June 2026, about 10 km after leaving Kruševac, I turned left and 3 km farther on is Naupare Monastery, a cultural property of great importance.

The monastery complex includes a church dedicated to the Mother of God. It was built in the 1370s and belongs to the Morava-style architectural school. In a charter issued by Prince Lazar in 1382, the monastery is mentioned as a metochion of Drenča Monastery, located about 35 km to the west, near Aleksandrovac.

Although historical sources suggest that the monastery was founded by the monk Dorotej, formerly a local nobleman during the reign of Prince Lazar, there is also a local legend. According to the tradition, while Prince Lazar was still alive, the young Stefan Lazarević, his son and heir, wished to establish his own endowment. As stone was being quarried from Mount Jastrebac for the construction of the Lazarica Church, Stefan is said to have selected the finest blocks and used them to build the church at Naupare.

In line with that, the monastery hosts the Assembly Days of Despot Stefan Lazarević. Right at the entrance, I noticed a chapel with a spring-fed fountain dedicated to Saint Despot Stefan the Tall (Stefan Lazarević). The chapel-fountain allows worshippers to offer a prayer upon entering the monastery and to get water from the spring.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

By the way, Constantine the Philosopher, a contemporary of the Despot and the author of The Hagiography of Despot Stefan Lazarević, describes Stefan as a man of remarkable appearance – tall, strong and well-proportioned, whose presence left a powerful impression on those around him. Based on this account, historians believe that Stefan was probably unusually tall for his time. Over the years, he came to be known by the epithet "the Tall" (Visoki), not only because of his physical stature, but also as a mark of the respect extended to him by his contemporaries and by later tradition in recognition of his exalted status as a ruler and a knight. It is worth remembering that Stefan was one of the most renowned knights of his time (https://www.svudapodji.com/en/fotresses-2024-1/).

As I entered the courtyard of this active female monastery, the first thing I noticed was that it is home to hardworking people who cultivate the monastery's land.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

There is also an absolutely charming pergola, surrounded by a garden overflowing with flowers.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

On the table inside the pergola, I found a pitcher of water, juices, glasses, and sugar cubes in a decorative glass jar, yet there was no one around. So, after taking photos of the refreshment table and the ducks swimming in the nearby pond, I continued along the path towards the church.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

Naupare Monastery, a detail

Along the way, I also spotted a guinea fowl wandering around the monastery courtyard.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

As I walked up the path, I heard someone following me. When I turned around, I saw an absolutely beautiful dog. I usually don't approach unfamiliar dogs, but this one came up to me and started weaving around my legs. It was immediately clear that he was a gentle, affectionate soul, so I even gave him a few strokes. His fur was incredibly soft and he was simply adorable.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

I also took a photo of the northern slopes of Mount Jastrebac, whose highest peak rises to 1,491 m above sea level.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

And then I saw the church.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

The church was built in the Morava style, with a compacted cross-in-square plan and a dome above the central section. Its stone rosettes on the western façade are of particular artistic value and are considered among the finest examples of decorative stonework of the Morava school.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

After the Ottoman conquest of Kruševac in 1454, the monastery suffered severe damage. During the following centuries, it was neglected and remained without a roof, causing most of the frescoes to be lost. Only small fragments of the original fresco paintings have survived, discovered during conservation works at the end of the 20th century.

According to historical records, in 1805, Karađorđe (1762–1817), the leader of the First Serbian Uprising (1804–1813), received Holy Communion at Naupare Monastery together with his rebels before their military campaigns.

A major restoration of the church was carried out in 1835 during the reign of Prince Miloš Obrenović, while restoration works continued throughout the 20th century.

While I was standing there, looking around and taking photographs, two people arrived and entered the church. I followed them inside and then, in the narthex, I realised that a liturgy was taking place.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

I stopped in the narthex and then decided to wait, hoping that after the service I would be able to take a closer look at the naos. I did not want to enter the naos because I felt that I had come here almost as a tourist, with a camera hanging around my neck, and I believed that I should not in any way disturb the people who had come for a much more serious purpose.

And so, I stood there, observing what was happening, but essentially waiting for the service to finish. Before long, I realised that the liturgy had started shortly before my arrival and I was also aware that it would continue for some time. I felt uncomfortable leaving at that point, as I did not want to disturb either the priests (there were two of them), the nuns, or the people attending the service.

Since I am not really used to standing for long periods, at one point I placed my hands behind my back to make it a little easier. The main priest noticed me and, without interrupting what he was reading at that moment, discreetly looked at me, pointed to his own hands and back, and then moved his index finger from side to side. I understood what he meant and immediately brought my hands back down by my sides. There is always something new to learn.

At one point, a young woman came from the naos into the narthex. She was not a nun and she quietly told me to move into the naos, which I did. The priest then joined her in the narthex and the two of them closed the door. I was a little confused and at first thought that I definitely could not leave now, but then I realised that he was hearing her confession in the narthex. After that young woman, who returned to the naos a little later, several more people went individually into the narthex.

Although the service lasted almost an hour and a half, it eventually came to an end. The kind priest approached me after noticing the camera around my neck and he then told me how he had been interested in photography when he was young and what camera he had owned.

I stayed a little longer in the naos, observing its various details, and then I left the church.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

Naupare Monastery, a detail

Naupare Monastery, a detail

Naupare Monastery, a detail

After leaving the church, I asked one of the nuns whether I could buy some honey, because I had seen a notice near the flower-filled pergola saying that the monastery had honey for sale, but I had not seen any there. She said that the younger priest would bring me some honey and that I should wait in the pergola.

First, however, I walked a little uphill so that I could take photos of the church, including its extraordinary decoration, from another angle as well.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

From here, it was clearly visible that the church has a trefoil/triconch plan, a dome above the central section, as well as a bell tower above the narthex.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

Naupare Monastery, a detail

Although the stone decorative elements arranged in the highest section of the church are very beautiful, the rosette on the western façade stands out in particular. Because of this, I took a photo of the church façade once more and then I went back down to the pergola.

Naupare Monastery, a detail

In the pergola, a few people who had previously attended the liturgy were already sitting there, along with the older priest who invited me to join them. I gladly accepted the invitation, drank some of the spring water from the pitcher and sat there for a while until my honey arrived. In the end, I said goodbye to everyone and went back to my car.

My intention was to drive directly to Blace, but I could not resist stopping briefly in the village of Naupare to take photos of some new houses from my car. I have to admit that they looked exceptionally luxurious for a small village in the middle of Serbia. I assume that their owners are Serbian “guest workers” (Gastarbeiter) abroad, since I know it is quite common for them to build large and luxurious houses in the area they come from or the place they like to return to (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/banja-koviljaca-2/).

Naupare, a detail

Naupare, a detail

Soon, I reached the main road and continued southwards. The sun was already quite low, but it was still daylight, so I enjoyed the beauty of the landscapes I was driving through, although I did not stop. There were not many vehicles on the road and over time I have perfected the art of taking photographs with my mobile phone without looking at it. I position the phone in the desired direction and, without looking at it but keeping my eyes on the road ahead, I take various photos while slightly moving the phone. Afterwards, I check whether any of them turned out well. At home, I adjust the image if necessary in order to achieve a level horizon.

On the road from Naupare to Blace

Because of the position of the sun, as well as my own position in the car, I took photographs solely in the direction of Jastrebac mountain.

On the road from Naupare to Blace

I eventually reached the reservoir Ćelije, which is located about 20–25 km south of Kruševac, in the valley of the Rasina River, between the slopes of Jastrebac and Kopaonik mountains. The artificial lake was created by damming the Rasina River through the construction of a dam near the village of Ćelije, after which the reservoir was named. The dam was completed in 1972, while the reservoir was fully filled in 1979.

On the road from Naupare to Blace

On the road from Naupare to Blace

I will say a little more about the reservoir when I talk about my return journey, because that was when I also took a break near it. For now, I took a few more photos of the slopes of Jastrebac and then I reached an important crossroads where the road to Blace goes left, while the road to Brus goes right.

On the road from Naupare to Blace

On the road from Naupare to Blace

Soon I arrived in Blace and at my comparatively "new" friend Tanja’s place. It was a warm and heartfelt reunion and the two of us immediately started talking as if we had known each other for a hundred years. It was a real pleasure.

The following day, Sonja and Jasna arrived, while every morning began in the same way – a spontaneous early wake-up, followed by neighbours Nada and Suza coming over for coffee. Then the pleasant women’s chatter would begin on the divine terrace, which was the main gathering place.

Blace, a detail

After some time, Nada and Suza had to leave us because they had their regular obligations, but throughout the day we were regularly visited by other “guests” – Tanja’s neighbours, friends and relatives. They are all wonderful people and spending time with them gave my stay in Blace a special charm. I was particularly fond of Đorđe, or as we jokingly called him Georges in French, and I am especially grateful to him for the bottle of plum brandy he gave me as a gift in the end.

Since I am mentioning plums and brandy, it should be noted that this small town in the Toplica District is best known precisely for plum production. The entire area is among the most important plum-growing regions of Serbia and a large part of the population is involved in cultivating different varieties. Every year, at the end of August, the “Days of the Plum” festival is held – an economic and tourism event that brings together producers of fruit, brandy, honey and traditional products.

Blace

What Blace is also known for, besides the wonderful people who live there and the very beautiful nature, is the natural monument “Prebreza,” located in the village of the same name, about 10 km from Blace. It is a paleontological site and one of the most significant sites of its kind in Serbia.

Namely, since 1947, when a local boy accidentally discovered fossilised bones, there is a site near this small village where fossils of giraffes, antelopes, and ancient proboscideans, relatives of today’s elephants, as well as hyenas, giant tortoises, and numerous other bird and mammal species have been discovered. These fossils are more than ten million years old, dating from the Miocene period. At that time, the climate was considerably warmer than it is today, so the area of present-day Toplica District resembled a savanna much more than the landscape we see today.

Over time, the Prebreza site became well known among experts and due to its exceptional scientific value, the area was protected as a natural monument of great importance. Research indicates that it still hides many undiscovered fossils.

Unfortunately, I did not stop at this site on my return journey. On the one hand, I had other plans, and on the other, from what I had read, the site is not particularly developed, so I am not sure whether it would have been worthwhile to come there simply to search around.

By the way, whenever needed, Tanja and I would drive down from her family home on the hill to the very centre of town when we went shopping.

Blace

Blace

One day we also went to the farmers’ market, where I was, among other things, delighted by the flowers grown and sold by an exceptionally kind local producer. No market in the world would be ashamed to have flowers like these among its offerings. Of course, I bought a few pots that I later took home.

Blace, a detail

The day after Sonja and Jasna arrived, the four of us were ready to go on a wonderful excursion. We first headed towards the slopes and forests of Jastrebac, because our first destination was Ajdanovac Monastery, the church of which is dedicated to Saint George. The monastery is located northeast of Blace, about 13.5 km away.

Surroundings of Blace

Ajdanovac Monastery

Ajdanovac Monastery

Upon entering the monastery courtyard, we headed towards the church, but along the way I also took a photo of some old tombstones.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

Then we followed the path that runs below the church, so I first observed it from there, but I actually continued along the trail in order to reach the spring.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

The memorial fountain at the spring was built in 1908 by a merchant from Niš, Mijailo J. Živković, and it is still fully functional today. There is even a notice stating that the water can be used for the treatment of certain health problems.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

Then I returned to the church and took a closer look at it.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

The church was built as a rather modest and simple structure, and based on its architectural features and frescoes, it is believed to have been built at the end of the 15th century, most likely around 1485, shortly after the final Ottoman conquest of these lands.

It is a single-nave building with a semicircular altar apse on the eastern side and a gabled roof. It was constructed of rough stone and brick, without the lavish exterior decoration characteristic of earlier monuments of the Morava-style architectural school. Nevertheless, elements of the medieval Serbian architectural tradition can be recognised in its design, while an inscription from the end of the 15th century states that the monastery was a metochion of Naupare Monastery near Kruševac, indicating its connection with an important spiritual centre of Moravian Serbia.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

The church was frescoed in 1492 (incidentally, the same year that Columbus discovered America), but the frescoes have survived only in fragments. However, photography was not allowed inside, so there are no illustrations.

Therefore, I focused more on examining the church from the outside.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

Ajdanovac Monastery is classified as an immovable cultural property of great importance and today it is home to a small male monastic community.

The courtyard is beautifully maintained and since it was June, everything was in full bloom, while bees and bumblebees in large numbers enjoyed the lush lavender bushes.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

There were also a large number of cats in the courtyard and somehow, while commenting on the cats, we started talking with a couple of monks. One of them was particularly talkative, so we found some common topics and the whole conversation was extremely pleasant.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

Then one of my friends wanted to speak with the priest or the hegumen, so it was soon arranged and we were all invited for coffee as well.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

Father Atanasije, the hegumen of the monastery, was an exceptionally interesting and, if I may say so, entertaining conversationalist. However, after a while, I felt the need to leave my friend to continue talking with him. Before that, I also photographed the refectory where we had our coffee and then I went to watch the cats.

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

Ajdanovac Monastery, a detail

After some time, the four of us gathered together again, said goodbye to our hosts, went back to the car and then set off about 60 km south. Our next destination was Đavolja varoš (Devil’s Town).