The Elona Monastery in the Peloponnese, on the road from Leonidio to Kosmas, is an absolutely magnificent place, especially considering its location on the cliffs of the Parnon mountain range, at an elevation of about 500 m above sea level.
Monastery of Elona
Although there are no clear records, it is believed that the monastery was founded in the 15th century, as the first ascetic monks settled here at that time. The name of the monastery is derived from the custom of the people from the village of Elos in the Laconia region of southern Peloponnese to seek refuge here in the mountains, bringing with them the miraculous icon of the Holy Virgin Hodegetria.
Monastery of Elona
Regardless of the uncertain exact date of its founding, it is well established that the monastery was active during the 17th and 18th centuries. Unfortunately, during the Ottoman occupation, the monastery was frequently destroyed and looted. After the liberation revolution of 1821, it gradually began to develop again. Originally a male monastery, it was converted into a female monastery in 1971.
Monastery of Elona
The monastery church, built in 1809, was erected on the foundations of an earlier place of worship, while the bell tower was added in 1831 (or 1833). It is a modest single-aisled structure (14.90 m x 5.10 m) dedicated to the Assumption of the Theotokos.
Monastery of Elona
The church’s ceiling is covered with frescoes, while the old walnut wood iconostasis from the 19th century still decorates the interior, along with other elements and church furnishing.
Monastery of Elona
In August 2006, the miraculous icon of the Holy Virgin Hodegetria was stolen from the monastery but was found and returned after 38 days. Since then, things have changed a bit – the original is carefully kept away from the eyes and, more importantly, the hands of visitors and it is displayed for the public to see only once a year, on 15 August during the Feast of the Assumption of the Theotokos. For the rest of the year, a copy of the icon is on display in the church.
Monastery of Elona
Of course, within the monastery, there are other buildings necessary for the life and functioning of the monastic community, and some of these structures are impressively nestled against the red cliffs.
Monastery of Elona
After the visit to the monastery, I got back in the car and continued along the winding roads over the Parnon mountain range. There weren’t many vehicles on the road, but I still had to come to a complete stop from time to time and wait for the traffic to clear.
Traffic jam on a road over the Parnon mountain range
And so I arrived in the village of Kosmas, situated at an altitude of 1,150 m. The main road I was travelling on goes right through the centre of the village and when I saw what it looked like, I instantly decided to take a break for coffee.
Kosmas
There was everything needed for a harmonious and peaceful existence – a church, coffee and deep shade of a tree on a sunny, warm day.
Kosmas
Although the area and the slopes of the south-eastern part of the Parnon mountain range could be viewed from the plateau/parking area next to the church, the scenery looked even better from a small pull-off by the road just at the exit from Kosmas.
Parts of the Parnon mountain range
Parts of the Parnon mountain range
In less than 17 km, I reached a very interesting site. First, I passed through the town of Geraki and then in order to drive uphill I took a side road that included several hairpins. At the top of a nearby hill there are the ruins of the fortified town of Geraki, which is actually referred to as Geraki Castle.
Road to Geraki Castle
Geraki Castle
The road ends at a spacious parking area, where there were no other cars besides mine and that of a woman selling tickets. I must admit that at first glance, I wasn’t exactly thrilled about having to walk uphill, especially since it was quite a warm day, but I didn’t have much choice. I passed through the gate, bought a ticket and then leisurely began walking along a wider dirt path until I reached the actual remains of the old fortified town.
View at Geraki Castle from the parking lot
Geraki Castle
The view of the modern town of Geraki and the surrounding area from here was truly breathtaking.
View from the dirt road leading to Geraki Castle
As for Geraki Castle, the site was chosen for its excellent strategic position. The highest parts are on top of the hill, at an elevation of 562 m, offering an outstanding view of the surroundings, which allowed for easy control of the routes connecting central Laconia and the eastern coast. The castle was built in 1254 as an imitation of the fortress constructed in Mystras, with walls and some buildings constructed both within and outside the fortification.
The Frankish knights responsible for the construction of the fortress did not stay long and by the late 13th century the castle passed into the hands of the Byzantines. From 1460, the entire area was occupied by the Ottomans, though it experienced a couple of brief periods of Venetian control in the latter half of the 15th century and from 1685 to 1715.
The fortification includes walls reinforced with towers, while large cisterns were built on-site in order to ensure survival during long sieges.
However, in addition to the military elements, the fortifications also encompass several smaller churches, particularly in the suburb, the first of which is the Church of St. Paraskevi of Rome.
Church of St. Paraskevi of Rome
The church was built in the late 13th century, while most of the frescoes were completed in the first half of the 15th century.
Church of St. Paraskevi of Rome
Church of St. Paraskevi of Rome, a detail
On the northern wall, there is a depiction of St. Paraskevi of Rome, whose fresco is framed by a porous element that clearly shows Gothic influence.
Church of St. Paraskevi of Rome, a detail
On the western wall, there is a depiction of elegant, slender figures of the founders presenting a miniature of the church to Christ.
Church of St. Paraskevi of Rome, a detail
On the barrel vault as well, some of the beautiful frescoes that decorate this church can still be seen.
Church of St. Paraskevi of Rome, a detail
Directly across from this church there are remains of several houses. One of them was originally built in the late 13th century and was later expanded in the late 14th and early 15th centuries, while the neighbouring house was constructed during the same period.
Geraki Castle site
Nearby, further along the visiting route, there is another church dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria.
Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria
I couldn't enter this church, but I peeked through the window of the semi-circular apse and captured what I could. Although the church is quite ruined and missing half of its roof, remnants of wall paintings can still be seen in some areas. Both the church and the frescoes date back to the 14th century.
Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria, a detail
Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria, a detail
From here, the path for visitors continues uphill, but it’s even steeper than in the beginning. So, I took short breaks and photographed the surroundings. In the next photo, you can see not only the town of Geraki in the distance but also the layout of the previously mentioned churches.
Geraki Castle site
Along the way, I passed by the remains of several houses, but they didn’t capture my interest much. However, the path also led by a couple of churches. The ruined remains of one of them, the Church of St. Demetrius, were about ten metres away from the path, but there was a fence. Although I was completely alone at the site, I didn’t want to climb over the fence, as I felt it was likely there for a good reason. So, I only took a photo of the church, which was built in the second half of the 13th century, capturing what could be seen from the path.
Ruins of the Church of St. Demetrius
On the other hand, I soon arrived at a church that was easily accessible, as it was right by the path. This is the Church of the Life-giving Spring, though it is marked on local maps as Zoodochos Pigi, which is the Greek term for this specific concept associated with the Virgin Mary.
Church of the Life-giving Spring
First, from the approaching path, I could admire the stunning decoration on the outer side of the western wall, specifically on a blind niche and one of the two entrances to the church. As for this western portal, if it was ever truly functional, I assume there must have been steps leading up to it at one time.
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
This is a single-nave church built in the late 13th century and one inscription states that it served as the main monastery church (monastery katholikon). The nave is covered with a barrel vault and the apse faces south. The entrance to the church is on the northern side, where there is also a vaulted narthex.
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
As for the frescoes, they were completed in 1430/31. I first started by photographing the vault and later I focused on various other extraordinarily beautiful and relatively well-preserved details.
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
Church of the Life-giving Spring, a detail
After visiting the church, I continued my ascent and soon the path led into the area of the Geraki fortress itself.
Geraki Castle site (the roof of the Church of the Life-giving Spring is to the left)
Having climbed to the area of the former citadel, where there is now a spacious plateau offering an excellent view of the surroundings, I had to take a selfie first.
Selfie at the Geraki Castle site
Only then could I truly appreciate the magnificent view of the town of Geraki that exists here.
West view from the Geraki Castle
Then I wandered around the top of the elevation, photographing sections of the walls and the remains of structures built within the citadel, as well as the surrounding landscape.
Geraki Castle, a detail
I also photographed the neighbouring hill, with a path leading to it, but I knew I wouldn’t go there despite the presence of the so-called Outer Churches. One of the churches is halfway up the path, while a couple of others are at the top of that neighbouring rise. There are also remains of ruined houses. All of this dates back to the late Byzantine period and it’s possible that a monastery was located there at the time. However, from what I could see, they were all just remnants of these structures and on such a warm day I didn’t like the idea of walking about 1 km in strong sunlight just to see the essentially modest remains of medieval buildings.
View at the hill with the Outer Churches
After all, here where I was, I had more interesting structures to explore, along with a beautiful view of the areas to the east of Geraki Fortress.
Geraki Castle, a detail
Landscapes east of Geraki Castle
Geraki Castle, a detail
In the previous photo, you can also see a section of the church built within the citadel. This is the Church of St. George, which can be accessed from the plateau where I took that selfie.
Church of St. George
This is a three-aisled basilica with barrel vaults. Originally built as a two-aisled church in the 13th century, the southern aisle and narthex were added later (in the 14th to 15th centuries), which is clearly visible in the previous photo.
You first enter the narthex and from there you proceed into the naos.
Church of St. George, a detail
Church of St. George, a detail
The wall paintings visible in the northern and central aisles date back to the early 14th century.
Church of St. George, a detail
Church of St. George, a detail
The built iconostasis (templon) is also decorated with frescoes.
Church of St. George, a detail
One particularly interesting detail is the richly decorated arcosolium on the northern wall, crafted in the form of a porous relief.
Church of St. George, a detail
Feeling very pleased with my visit to the site, I began to make my way back to the entrance/exit, taking one more photo along the way of the site and its many ruins.
Geraki Castle site
Now I continued towards the town of Gefira, located on the shores of the Myrtoan Sea (practically part of the Aegean and Mediterranean Seas), which was about 60 km away. However, since it was quite hot and I hadn’t drunk enough water while exploring the Geraki Fortress site, I started to feel weak and realised it was due to dehydration. So, I took a break in the village of Agios Dimitrios Zarakos, where I stopped at a pastry shop for some sweets and coffee, but also for water, water and more water...
Approaching Gefira, I was able to see and photograph the main reason for my visit to this town from a pull-off by the road. It was a small island that consists of a massive rock about 300 m high on the eastern coast of Peloponnese, connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway. On the south-eastern side of the islet lies the town of Monemvasia.
View at the island with Monemvasia
Even though I knew what to expect here, I was truly captivated by the beauty of the sight. So, I stopped at another spot to capture this fascinating landscape once more.
View at the island with Monemvasia
I had booked a room in a modest hotel in the town of Gefira on the mainland and its location suited me perfectly. From the terrace of my room, I could see only a part of the island I intended to visit (to the left in the next photo), but I hadn’t come here to sit on the terrace anyway. So, I quickly left my things in the room, changed and headed outside.
Room with a view in Gefira