Modern Sparta has almost no connection with ancient Sparta. For starters, modern Greeks are wiser than their Spartan ancestors and hedonism is an important part of their existence.
However, in the middle of the city, there are some lesser ruins known as the "Tomb of Leonidas." This is more of a marketing story, as Leonidas would certainly not have been buried outside the Spartan Acropolis. Furthermore, research has shown that these are the remains of a small Hellenistic temple.
“Tomb of Leonidas”
“Tomb of Leonidas”
Although I had "researched" restaurants in the centre of Sparta online, I saw one restaurant that I liked, so I took a seat there. There were a few reasons for this. First, I was hungry. Second, the restaurant and tables were in deep shade, which I found very pleasant. And third, apart from me, all the other visitors were locals. To me, that's always a good sign. And I was right. I decided on souvlaki in pita bread and I ordered a small portion (!).
Lunch in Sparta
After this lovely break, I strolled a bit more around Sparta and headed to the Central Square, where I could see the statue of the Spartan Hero.
Central Square in Sparta
Spartan Hero Statue
And then I returned to the car and drove to the village of Mystras, located just over 5 km from Sparta, where the significant Archaeological Site of Mystras is found. The remains of this old town and fortress can be seen on the slopes of the first elevation above the village already from the access road.
Entering the village of Mystras and the old Mystras on the slopes of the hill
Still, I first went to the hotel, settled into my room, took a photo of the view and then drove to the upper parking lot.
View at parts of modern and old Mystras
Namely, since the town was built on a steep elevation on the slopes of the Taygetos mountain range, there are several parts that can be visited. I decided to start from the highest area where the remains of the fortifications or citadel of Mystras are located.
The road leading to the upper parking lot, which is the best place to explore the highest and middle parts of the site, is quite winding and from some sections, there are beautiful views of the site. I had been here in January 2013, and the weather and vegetation were quite different then, so I will occasionally include some of those old photos. Since this site began construction in the early 13th century, the difference in age of the photographs by about ten years is negligible.
View at Mystras site and the valley where Sparta is (2013)
So, I was first interested in going to the very top of the elevation where the remains of the citadel are located.
View at the fortifications or citadel of Mystras
The construction of Mystras began in 1249 when the Franks built a fortress on the elevation, which has a peak at 620 meters above sea level. Like in other parts of the Peloponnese, the Byzantines soon arrived – the citadel was handed over to them in 1262, followed by the Ottomans in 1460 and the Venetians. The medieval town was finally abandoned in 1834, leaving only ruins today.
The basic concept of the entire town was established by the Byzantines, who had a template for building fortified towns on elevations, which involved a division into three sectors. At the top was the acropolis or citadel, serving as a natural stronghold from where the town gradually expanded as the population increased. Below, two lines of defence created spaces for the upper and lower towns, with buildings erected between these defensive zones. The Upper Town housed palaces, the administrative centre and accommodations for aristocrats. The Lower Town contained numerous churches and monasteries, as well as houses for officials and other townspeople. Peasants lived outside the city walls.
Ultimately, the town was significantly smaller than Thessaloniki or Constantinople, but it was still considered a major Byzantine centre in southern Greece.
Within the original fortress at the very top, there were also various structures, all surrounded by ramparts. Although the Franks laid the foundations, the fortress was significantly enhanced over time by other rulers, featuring wall curtains, towers and cisterns for water.
So, I began to climb the path for visitors toward the top.
Citadel of Mystras, a detail
From the same parking area where I left my car, but via a different path, you can reach the middle part of the medieval Mystras ruins (the Upper Town), though I planned to visit that later. Notably, there is the Church of Holy Wisdom, or Agia Sofia at Mystras, which I spotted from the path leading to the citadel.
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia at Mystras
Citadel of Mystras, a detail
Occasionally I stopped not only to catch my breath, but also to admire the wonderful view that unfolds from here.
View from the Citadel of Mystras
View from the Citadel of Mystras
And then I reached the top and walked around a bit.
Citadel of Mystras, a detail
Citadel of Mystras, a detail
Citadel of Mystras, a detail
Citadel of Mystras, a detail
Citadel of Mystras, a detail
However, I found the view here was particularly impressive. In fact, in every direction I looked, everything appeared magnificent.
North view and the Palace Complex of Mystras
View at the Palace Complex of Mystras in the Upper Town
View at the Holy Metropolitan Church of Saint Demetrius at Mystras in the Lower Town
After enjoying the beautiful views for a while and taking photos, I returned the same way I had come, but instead of going back to the parking lot, I walked to the nearby Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia at Mystras, located in the Upper Town.
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia at Mystras
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, a detail (2013)
This church belonged to the palace and was built in the 14th century (1350-1365) by Despot Manuel Kantakouzenos (b/r c. 1326/1349-1380). During the Byzantine period, there was actually a state here called the Despotate of the Morea, named after the medieval term for the Peloponnese (Morea), which was ruled by Byzantine princes holding the title of despot.
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia (2013)
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia (2013)
The church showcases various stylistic influences, both Byzantine and Western, all very harmoniously integrated. Upon entering the church, one can see a section of the original multi-coloured marble floor.
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, a detail
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, a detail
The altar apse is particularly interesting. In Byzantine churches it was customary to depict the Virgin Mary in the semi-dome of the altar apse. However, here, Christ is portrayed in that place instead.
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, a detail
This deviation from the usual practice supports the view that this church was originally the main church of the Monastery of Christos Zoodotes or Christ the Giver of Life.
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, a detail
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, a detail
In addition, the church also served for burials and the research carried out in the mid-20th century uncovered numerous remains. Based on the grave goods, it could be concluded that the nobility of the despotate was buried there.
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, a detail
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, a detail
Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, a detail
When I stepped outside the church, I first photographed the remains of the former monastery refectory and then I looked down from above at the Despot's Palace.
Monastery Refectory
Although the Despot's Palace is certainly one of the most important structures on the site, I did not visit it either in January 2013 or in September 2023. One might logically wonder why that is.
The reason is that in both instances, it was clear that work was taking place on the structure, so I didn’t even attempt to go to the palace.
Despot’s Palace in January 2013
Despot’s Palace in September 2023
The palace consists of two wings; one was built in the 13th-14th centuries, while the other in the 15th century. If I return here one day and visit the palace then, I can write a bit more about it. For now, here’s a photograph showing the remains of buildings to the west of the palace.
Mystras site, a detail
Not far from the Church of Holy Wisdom or Agia Sofia, there is also the Church of Saint Nicholas, but I didn’t go there either. I had limited time and very ambitious plans regarding the sites in Mystras, which led me in a different direction. Additionally, I didn’t like the idea of descending further down the slope, considering my car was parked at the upper parking lot. So, I returned to the parking area, got into my car and drove down to the lower parking lot where the entrance ticket for the site can be purchased and where the main entrance to the Lower Town is located.
Entrance into the Lower Town
When I entered the site, I first took a photo of the slopes on which Mystras was built, showing the citadel at the top, as well as the Pantanassa Monastery, which I planned to visit later on.
Mystras site
Now I first went to the cathedral, that is, to the Holy Metropolitan Church of Saint Demetrius that is located in the Lower Town. It was built after 1264 (the exact year is uncertain, but it was certainly in the second half of the 13th century). This is one of the three most significant sacral monuments at the site of Mystras.
Church of Saint Demetrius
The church complex is surrounded by walls and from the path, there is an entrance to the front area, from where one descends through another gate and down the steps into the front yard (parvis) of the church.
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail
From the top of the steps, there is a great view of the church’s front facade.
Church of Saint Demetrius
On the right-hand side of the previous photo, you can see a fountain, while in the next photo from 2013, both the fountain (on the left side of the image) and the staircase leading down to the front parvis are visible.
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail (2013)
The church was originally built in the shape of a three-aisled basilica with barrel vaults, but in the 15th century, the upper parts of the church were given a cruciform plan and domes were added. This architectural blend from different centuries is evident in the form of a sculpted frieze.
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail
The arches rest on columns with Byzantine capitals.
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail
The frescoes are from the 13th and the 14th centuries.
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail
From the area of the parvis, you can enter both the church and a courtyard with 18th-century arcades.
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail
In some areas, decoration in the shape of wall paintings can still be seen.
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail
Within the complex, there is also the Archaeological Museum of Mystras, but I didn't visit it as I was more interested in the churches at this moment. However, in January 2013, when I was here, a heavy rain started, so I took advantage of the situation to go upstairs to shield myself from the rain and to observe and photograph some details.
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail (2013)
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail (2013)
Church of Saint Demetrius, a detail (2013)
Back then, the rain stopped at some point and even the sun peeked out, creating beautiful scenes. Here’s one:
Central dome of the Church of Saint Demetrius and the citadel on the top of the hill (2013)
The site in Mystras has many paths, allowing visitors to explore various buildings in any order they choose, but this typically involves a lot of climbing and descending. To make it easier for myself, I planned what I considered the ideal route. I headed down the path next to the Church of the Annunciation, but the church was closed. In terms of photography, my shot from 2013 turned out much better, showing this church as well as the Church of St. Theodore – all freshly washed by the rain and illuminated by the sun, with snow visible on the nearby mountain peaks.
Church of the Annunciation, left, and the Church of St. Theodore, right (2013)
Next on my visiting route was the Church of St. Theodore.
Church of St. Theodore
The church was built in the late 13th century (1290-1295) on a cruciform plan. Notably, it features a dome resting on a 16-sided drum.
Church of St. Theodore, a detail
Church of St. Theodore
Directly across from the entrance to the Church of St. Theodore there is the churchyard of the Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria that served as the katholikon (main church) of the Brontochion Monastery. It was built around 1310.
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria
The approach to the church is from the back, allowing for an immediate view of the excellently crafted semi-circular altar apse with a triforium (triple window) and opulent decoration.
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
A ramp leads to the doors on the northern side, where columns that likely belonged to a former portico can be seen. These columns are more clearly visible in another photo from 2013, which I took while glancing back at the Church of St. Theodore.
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail (2013)
And then I went to the front façade where the bell tower was also constructed.
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria
By the way, this church also features two different layouts – the ground floor has a three-aisled basilica plan, while the upper level is based on a cross-in-square design topped with domes. From what I've read, this style can only be seen in Mystras.
Although the Ottomans converted this church into a mosque after conquering Mystras, today, following restoration, one can admire the outstanding remnants of 14th-century frescoes.
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
Church of the Holy Virgin Hodegitria, a detail
After thoroughly enjoying my visit to this church, I returned by the Church of St. Theodore and then took a path that gently ascended. From there, I had a wonderful view.
Church of St. Theodore
Here is also an extraordinary detail of the same church from 2013.
Church of St. Theodore, a detail
From the height, I could also see beautifully the Church of the Annunciation and the Church of Saint Demetrius.
Church of St. Theodore and the Church of the Annunciation
Church of the Annunciation
A photo of the Church of Saint Demetrius from 2013 is especially beautiful, taken after heavy rain when the sun began to illuminate the entire area.
Church of Saint Demetrius (2013)
That effect of a magnificently illuminated area could also be seen as I continued my tour of the site in Mystras in January 2013.
Mystras site when following rain everything is lit by the sun
And then a rainbow appeared... The sight was spectacular!
Mystras site when following rain everything is lit by the sun