Blace, Serbia, 2026, part 2 (Stalać, Kruševac)
In June 2026, I went to Blace, Serbia, for a few days to celebrate my friend Tanja's patron saint's day (Slava). I took the opportunity to visit some of the cultural heritage monuments located along my route.
Here is a map showing all the places I visited, the locations of the cultural heritage monuments I saw, as well as a few other interesting sites.
From the remains of the medieval town of Stalać (Stalać Fortress), situated on a hill above the modern-day village of Stalać, I drove a short distance downhill along the road until I reached a churchyard. In addition to the newer Church of the Holy Trinity, it is also home to the Church of Holy Spirit, meaning the Descent of the Holy Spirit upon the Apostles. The church is officially designated as an immovable cultural property of great importance.
It is a small, single-nave church built at an unknown date, but certainly sometime between the medieval period and the Ottoman era.
A stone plaque on the church's façade, dated 1907, states that the church was restored in 1836 at the expense of the local parishioners. This restoration was necessary because archaeological investigations carried out in 1972 revealed that the original building had been destroyed to below the level of its vault and its upper sections were therefore rebuilt during the 1836 restoration. The 1972 excavations also uncovered a 10th-century Byzantine gold coin in the foundations, as well as frescoes in the sanctuary dating to the late 14th and early 15th centuries.
I walked around the church quite nicely, but I couldn't get inside because I wasn't able to open the door. As I was heading back to my car, I passed the house in the churchyard and noticed a sign with the priest's name and phone number. Since I also had some questions about several other churches in the area, I decided to give him a call and the very kind Father Ivan answered.
After introducing myself, I first asked whether someone could unlock the Church of the Holy Spirit so that I could see the interior. He told me that the church was actually already unlocked, I just needed to push the door a bit more firmly after pressing down the handle. Excellent! My first problem was solved.
Then I asked him about three other churches in the area and whether they were accessible by car, since the map made it seem as though they were not. Father Ivan confirmed that they could not be reached by car, but said that the Church of St. John was the closest to the road and that I could easily walk there. He also mentioned that this church was open as well. It was just another case of having to give the door a firmer push.
And that wasn't all. Father Ivan also invited me to come back the following year for the Feast of St. Mark, when he and the parishioners would make the traditional walk to the Church of St. Mark, which stands a little more uphill and somewhat farther from the road.
The third church that interested me was the Church of St. Nicholas, but there is no road leading to it either, so I would have to improvise my route.
The point was that all three of these churches are officially designated as cultural properties of great importance, so I certainly had plenty of motivation to visit them. On the other hand, my itinerary for the day was quite ambitious and I wasn't sure how much time I would need for the other places where I planned to stop. Besides, I still had to reach Blace that same day.
So, for the time being, I returned to the Church of the Holy Spirit, followed Father Ivan's advice, and pressed the handle and the door a little more firmly. A moment later, I was inside.
The frescoes are certainly of a more recent date, but I was nevertheless very glad that I was able to enter the church and see its interior.
Encouraged by what Father Ivan had told me, I first drove just under 3 km south of the church along the road that runs almost the entire way beside the left bank of the South Morava River. At the spot where, according to the map, I was supposed to leave my car and continue on foot, I came across a man on a tractor. I asked him about the Church of St. John and whether I was in the right place. He confirmed that I was and told me simply to follow the path alongside the stream, which would lead me to the church. He also advised me to change my footwear since I was wearing sandals, since I told him that I had a pair of sneakers with me.
I parked my car in a pleasant patch of shade beside the road, changed my shoes, grabbed my backpack with some water and set off.
The Mojsinjska Mount (which is actually a hill, as its highest point is below 500 m) lies within a triangle formed by the West Morava and South Morava rivers and the route between Kruševac and Deligrad. In practical terms, this area occupies the very heart of the Balkan Peninsula. Throughout history, it has been crossed by the main routes linking northern and southern Europe. Nearby Kruševac also served as the capital of Moravian Serbia from 1371 to 1403, during the period of the most significant event in medieval Serbian history – the Battle of Kosovo in 1389.
According to local tradition, Mojsinjska Mount was once home to around 77 churches and monasteries, of which 28 survive today. It is believed that this remarkable concentration of religious sites originated in the 14th century, when a group of monks from Mount Sinai fled the advancing Ottoman armies and settled in the area after leaving their original monasteries. Because of this rich spiritual heritage, the entire region has acquired the local nickname the Holy Mountain of Mojsinje.
So, the trail begins at the sign visible in the previous photograph.
In addition to its cultural and historical significance, Mojsinjska Mount is also rich in natural resources, such as underground springs and streams. This has contributed to the growth of numerous mushroom species. How do I know? Quite simply – there is a signpost here indicating that this very route is the “Mushroom Trail of the Holy Mountain of Mojsinje.” I noticed that the mushroom-related project was carried out with support from the EU. Since they have already provided funding, it seems only fair to thank them, because this is something that ultimately remains here for us.
According to another sign I saw, this area is home to edible, poisonous, and rare mushroom species. I like mushrooms, but I have never felt inspired to pick them myself. Besides, I always remember hearing somewhere that all mushrooms are edible, but the problem is that some of them are edible only once.
So, on this day, I was simply walking through nature in search of the Church of St. John.
Very soon, I came across a marker indicating that the foundations of the Church of the Holy Mother of God were located there.
The trail soon became narrower, but it was still perfectly visible even in June, when the vegetation was probably at its peak.
Then I came to a section that looked like a dirt path, but I think it was actually the dried-up bed of a stream.
I think this because I came across numerous butterflies in several places, landing on the ground and, it seemed to me, drinking water just beneath the surface.
There were silver-washed fritillaries (Argynnis paphia), meadow browns (Maniola jurtina), and large tortoiseshells (Nymphalis polychloros) here. I managed to capture the last species nicely when one specimen spread its wings and briefly posed for me.
This moisture in the soil also meant high humidity in the air. I found that especially difficult because it was hot, there was no wind and I was also in a hurry. I did not see anyone anywhere, so I was thinking that I needed to be particularly careful not to accidentally twist my ankle or have some similar mishap, since I was not sure that I would have phone signal in every part of the area.
Then I reached the stream, but it did not appear to have a defined course everywhere, almost as if it disappeared into the ground. On the other hand, in some places I had to cross it by stepping over stones. There too, I had to be careful not to slip and fall into the mud or the water, which was certainly not deep, but I still preferred to keep my feet dry.
And then I reached the point where I was supposed to leave the main mushroom trail and descend into the ravine through which the stream flows.
Very soon, I caught sight of the church through the trees and it looked like a scene from a fairy tale.
On the other side there was another ravine, but fortunately I did not have to climb up there. Instead, there is a wide path between the two ravines that leads to the church.
At the top of this path there is a clearing where the Church of St. John stands. There is also a modern-day trpezar (dining hall) – a covered area with wooden tables and benches intended for parishioners when they come to the church. I left my backpack and hiking poles there, and then went to visit the church.
This is an immovable cultural property of great importance. The Church of St. John on Mojsinjska Mount dates back to the 14th century and it may even be older, but it was certainly restored in 1926. In any case, there are no written records that would help establish the exact period from which it originates.
The ground plan of the church is in the shape of a free cross with a very short transverse arm, a semicircular apse, and a narthex on the western side. It is assumed that the original church had a barrel-vaulted ceiling and that it did not have a dome. It was built of sandstone and tufa, and on the façade it can still clearly be seen that three to four rows of bricks alternate with one row of dressed stone blocks.
Following the advice of the priest from Stalać, I opened the church and went inside.
The church was once painted with frescoes, while today perhaps only traces of the original decoration can still be seen. I did not really look closely, though, so I did not notice any of them.
Then I went outside and photographed the church from the other side as well.
I also photographed the mushroom trail that runs along the other side of the ravine with the stream. Then I picked up my hiking poles and started heading downhill back towards my car.
I made my way back to the car, changed into my sandals, got behind the wheel and started the engine. But then I thought it would be a good idea to drink some more water first, since I had sweated quite a lot on the way to the church and back.
And then I realised – there was no water bottle and that was because there was no backpack either. That was when I understood that I had left it on the table in the trpezar by the church. What else could I do but change my footwear again, take my hiking poles in my hands and go back up all over again? It is not a steep climb and it takes about 15 minutes each way, but, as I already mentioned, it was hot and very humid, so I was not exactly thrilled.
Of course, my backpack was waiting for me exactly where I had left it.
All sweaty, I made my way back to the car and then drove on to Kruševac, where I first found a good shaded spot to park. After that, I walked to the nearby Lazarica Church.
I will say more about the church later, but first I would like to mention something about Kruševac itself.
The city was founded around 1371, when Prince Lazar Hrebeljanović chose this location as his political and military seat. The reasons for choosing this particular place were its favourable geographical position, good connections with other parts of the state, and its potential for defence against the increasingly frequent Ottoman incursions. A fortified city was built in Kruševac, with a palace, administrative buildings and a church, making it the capital of the state then known as Moravian Serbia.
It was from Kruševac that Prince Lazar set out with his army in 1389 for the Battle of Kosovo, one of the most significant events in Serbian medieval history. After his death at Kosovo, the state was governed from Kruševac by his wife, Princess Milica, and the young Stefan Lazarević. The city remained the capital until 1403, when Stefan Lazarević, after being granted control of Belgrade, moved the capital there.
Some remains of Lazar’s Fortress have been preserved, among which the Keep stands out as the main defensive structure of the fortress.
I have to admit that, on the one hand, I was not really prepared to explore the remains of the old fortress or visit the nearby museum, while on the other hand, it was quite hot and I wanted to go to the city centre to sit somewhere and properly cool down.
So, I only briefly photographed a few details, with the intention of returning here again and then devoting more time to everything that this important, and above all charming, little town in central Serbia has to offer its visitors.
I photographed the keep through the transparent plastic panel that has been placed there, with outlines on it designed to help visitors imagine what the site once looked like.
In the area around Lazarica Church, which looks more like a park than a churchyard, the remains of some structures can also be seen, as well as a monument to Prince Lazar as the founder of the city.
And now, I will go back with my story to Lazarica Church that is designated as a cultural property of exceptional importance.
The church is actually dedicated to Saint Stephen the First Martyr. However, because it was built by Prince Lazar and was inseparably connected with his court, the people began calling it Lazarica, meaning “Lazar’s Church.” This name became widely established and is now much more familiar than the official dedication.
In addition, there is further symbolism in the choice of Saint Stephen as the church’s patron. Rulers from the Nemanjić (Nemanides) dynasty often carried the name Stefan in their titles (not necessarily as their baptismal name, but as a ruler’s title) and Saint Stephen the First Martyr was considered one of the protectors of the Serbian state and royal authority. Prince Lazar, although not a Nemanjić through the male line, sought to present himself as the heir to their state and spiritual traditions, so the dedication to Saint Stephen also carried a political message about the continuity of the Serbian state.
Thus, the church was built as Prince Lazar’s court church between 1377 and 1380. It represents one of the finest achievements of the Morava School of Serbian medieval architecture and has preserved much of its original appearance to this day. According to tradition, the Serbian army received Holy Communion in this church before the Battle of Kosovo in 1389.
The church was certainly damaged during Ottoman rule, but after the liberation of Kruševac in the 19th century, several restorations were carried out that were rather amateurish. This is not surprising, since both the newly liberated state and its professional institutions were still young. Finally, between 1904 and 1908, conservation and restoration works were undertaken based on scientific principles.
The church has a trefoil (triconch) ground plan with a dome above the intersection of the nave and the central bay, while a bell tower rises above the narthex.
The church was built with alternating rows of ashlars and three rows of bricks, a technique that is known as the Byzantine bond style.
Among the exterior decorations, the interlacing patterns around the windows and the stone-carved perforated rosettes are particularly striking.
As for the interior decoration, no traces of the original frescoes have been found, but there are some fragments of wall paintings dating from 1737–1740. The iconostasis dates from 1844; it has been preserved in its entirety and was conserved in 1989.
In the left side apse (conch), there is a reliquary dedicated to Holy Prince Lazar. However, this reliquary has primarily a liturgical and memorial significance, since the relics of Prince Lazar are kept in the Ravanica Monastery, of which he was the ktetor (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/serbia-2006-1/).
By the way, Prince Lazar Hrebeljanović was canonised as a saint in the Serbian Orthodox Church very soon after his death at the Battle of Kosovo. There is no surviving document that records the exact act of canonisation, but historians and church historians believe that it took place between 1389 and 1391, meaning only one or two years after the Battle of Kosovo. Holy Prince Lazar is referred to as a holy martyr or great martyr, and his death is interpreted as a martyr’s sacrifice for faith and fatherland.
Also, during the Great Migration of the Serbs in 1690, the monks moved his relics to the Vrdnik-Ravanica Monastery on Fruška Gora for protection from the Ottomans (see: https://www.svudapodji.com/en/fruska-gora/). It was only in 1989, on the occasion of the 600th anniversary of the Battle of Kosovo, that the relics were solemnly returned to Ravanica Monastery, where they remain today.
Here, I also looked at some of the newer wall paintings and I went to see the icon of Saint Venerable Eugenia, which is the saintly name of Princess Milica, the wife of Prince Lazar.
Namely, after Prince Lazar was killed in the Battle of Kosovo in 1389, Milica took over the administration of the state as regent, since their son Stefan Lazarević was still a minor. These were difficult times and Milica pursued a cautious policy in order to preserve the state. In 1390, she accepted a vassal relationship with the Ottomans, which allowed Serbia to retain a certain degree of independence.
Later, she withdrew from secular life and became a nun in her own endowment, Ljubostinja Monastery, where she received the name Eugenia. She died in 1405 and it is believed that she attained the status of a saint through the veneration of the people and the Church during the first half of the 15th century. Her relics are kept precisely at Ljubostinja Monastery.
After visiting Lazarica Church, I went down to the centre of Kruševac.