The previous morning, before heading on a tour from the town of Ao Nang on the Andaman Sea coast and the Pang Nga Bay, I had a chat with the hotel receptionist. We agreed that he would set up a taxi for me to take me this morning to the office of the company located in Krabi town, which organises transportation in this part of Thailand. When I say “this part of Thailand,” I think of quite a broad area, as later through the same company, I also transferred from Ko Tao Island to the city of Hua Hin, which is considerably farther up in the north, and they also operate routes to Bangkok. What makes this company good is that they combine bus and catamaran transportation, making it a relatively simplified version of transferring between tourist destinations. It is also possible to transfer using minibuses or vans in combination with large speedboats, and this is usually cheaper, but as far as I could find out, it often takes longer. The choice is up to the traveller. I opted for the more efficient version.
But, let me get back to the story about the taxi from the hotel to the transportation company’s office. It was great that I talked about it with the morning shift receptionist because he spoke English, so we arranged everything nicely. He also mentioned that he would come earlier because, for some strange reason, this hotel where I stayed had no one at the reception from 10 pm to 8 am.
When I returned from the tour the previous day, I found another receptionist and in my enthusiasm, with which I often tend to exaggerate, I wanted to repeat to her that I was still interested in a taxi the following morning. It turned out that she had no grasp of English. I said I need a taxi at 7:20; she repeated that I need it at 7:20, and then wrote on paper 7:40!!! I wrote on paper 7:20, and then she asked me if I wanted her to order a taxi or if she should call a taxi for me. I realised that she understood absolutely nothing, which was very strange to me because Ao Nang is an extremely touristy place, the hotel was of a quite decent middle category and I would really expect people working at the reception to know how to communicate about basic things that might interest tourists. It’s not as if I wanted to discuss with her the origin of the universe, the current global political situation or the life cycle of oil palms. Since it was clear to me that I couldn’t do anything with her, I just went back to my room, hoping for the best, grumbling at her and at myself for having to confirm everything twice. Oh, yes, I’m far from being zen, a Buddha or enlightened...
Anyway, this morning the young man was really working and he indeed organised everything nicely. I even managed to have breakfast before the departure and it was interesting that the taxi that came for me was an exceptionally nice, comfortable and decent van that cost the same as the official tariff for a worn-out tuk-tuk from a nearby stop. This means that one should inquire well, but also trust in the good intentions of higher powers.
Transport from Ao Nang to Krabi
The appearance of the van was just a peculiarity, but what actually mattered to me was to get to the office of the carrier that would take me further. Along the way, I continued to observe the interesting limestone formations that are so abundant in this part of Thailand.
On the way from Ao Nang to Krabi
Since I had bought the ticket online, I just checked in now, then settled into a large coach of that transport company and headed towards the city of Surat Thani. In fact, the coach passes through that city and continues to the pier in Don Sak district from where the passengers take catamarans to the islands in the Gulf of Thailand.
During the journey, that was supposed to take about three hours, I mostly looked aimlessly through the window, but at one point, I even saw and took a photo of a type of transportation in Thailand.
Transportation in Thailand
The journey to the pier in Don Sak district took longer in fact, because the coach broke down along the way. We stopped and waited for another coach to arrive and then transferred to it. Still, I eventually arrived on time and boarded the catamaran, from where I took a photo of the pier.
Pier in Don Sak district
Interior of the catamaran going to Ko Tao island
The sailing to the island of Ko Tao takes you between several smaller islands and the Mu Ko Ang Thong National Marine Park on the west side, and the group of islands called Mu Ko Samui on the east side. The latter is named after the largest Thai island.
This island group comprises several islands of various sizes, with the most famous and largest being three: Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao. So, I chose to spend two nights on the smallest of these three, Ko Tao. However, the catamaran made stops at the other two islands as well, where some passengers disembarked and others boarded. I simply waved to these islands with a mutual promise to visit them on some future occasion.
Greeting Ko Samui
Greeting Ko Pha Ngan
The ride was quite monotonous, so I occasionally went out to the deck either to play, waving at the islands, or simply to take photos of them.
Ko Pha Ngan
At some point, we finally reached the small island of Ko Tao.
Arriving at Ko Tao
As it turned out, in the meantime, I had made a mistake by not informing the hotel I had booked about my arrival. Thus they didn’t send any transportation to pick me up and public transport couldn’t help much, while taxis were just too expensive. However, I managed to find my way around this and a very kind woman working there called the hotel for me. I had to wait a bit longer, but I finally got transferred to the hotel, which consists of a central building (a two-story house) with a restaurant and several bungalows.
It is quite inconvenient when you go to a place for the first time, staying only for a couple of days and you don’t really know anything about it. You have to rely on recommendations. Recommendations, like ratings and comments found online, are a very relative matter. Here, I used the recommendations from my two guidebooks, and one of them in particular praised Ao Tanote Beach in Tanote Bay on the east side of Ko Tao, claiming it was a fantastic spot for snorkelling. Since I planned for this to be a mini-break, I thought it was an ideal place.
And, in fact, I didn’t choose poorly at all, except that some details didn’t work in my favour, resulting in an overall negative impression. Now, as I write this several months later, I think I might have been a bit harsh in my judgment.
Anyway, it all started quite amusingly because I booked a “family room” here (at the time of my visit, the hotel didn’t have single rooms available and the price for this family room wasn’t high, probably because I booked it two days before arriving and they were keen on getting someone to take the room, even at a very low rate). When one of the hotel owners (this seemed like a family business) led me to the room, we started laughing because the room was genuinely large, with two enormous double beds. We joked about whether I should sleep in one bed for one night and use the other for the next night. The bungalow also had a “piece” of the beach as a part of its realm, with two sun loungers.
Bungalow and my part of the beach
However, perhaps the most impressive aspect for me was the bathroom! Not because of its size, but due to the wonderful and imaginative use of space and the surrounding rocks against which the bungalow was nestled.
Bathroom and the view at the shower
Once I had left my belongings in the room, I went to the restaurant terrace, which offered a beautiful view of the Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay.
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
One of the particularly picturesque details was a large rock protruding from the water, with a rope set up for visitors to climb and later jump into the water. I was to pay special attention to this later in the afternoon. For now, here is a snapshot illustrating what I’m talking about.
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay, a detail
As for me, to start with, I took a soup because I really needed something refreshing.
Late lunch by the Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
Later, I went for a walk along the beach.
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
However, even though the photos depict a beautiful beach with an attractive appearance, not everything was pleasant. To start with, the ground was a mix of sand and very fine, sharp gravel that didn’t feel comfortable on my feet at all. Since I still had to move around, after two days of walking here, my feet hurt so much, even though they weren’t injured, that I felt discomfort for the next two weeks. I think I can still recall the unpleasant sensation while walking there. Flip-flops didn’t help much because small stones entered the footwear, continuing to poke me.
On the other hand, as the wind was blowing and creating waves, it brought a lot of garbage to the shore. It seemed odd that the owners of surrounding hotels and restaurants didn’t coordinate and make an effort to at least clean up the debris that was washed ashore. There was still garbage on the beach the next day.
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay, a detail
After reaching the end of the beach, I simply returned to my own spot and continued to rest, enjoying the view that was somewhat better here, with less garbage.
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
The good thing about my accommodation was that they had a restaurant that, like its terrace, was on the upper floor, so I could provide myself with food, drinks and a good view, even after dark.
Dinner by the Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
Refreshing drink by the Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay
The next morning, I woke up relatively early and as there was no one in front of my bungalow, I went out in my nightie, which meant I was already on the beach and there I took up my place on a sun lounger to enjoy the tranquil start of the day.
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay, morning
Ao Tanote Beach and Tanote Bay, morning
Meanwhile, I had realised that there was a rather interesting place near the small island of Ko Tao, which was an even smaller island called Ko Nang Yuan. I decided to go on a trip there, but as organised by myself.
Thus, after an early breakfast, around 8:30, I took a taxi to the pier in the main town on Ko Tao. This taxi was arranged by the hotel and I must admit that there would be no other way to get there. Many people rent mopeds, but the access road from the hotel to the main road was so steep that I’m sure I would have to push the moped uphill and even on the way back I could carefully bring it down to the hotel on foot. I think in such situations it is much better to leave things to professionals, especially the locals who are accustomed to such circumstances. On the other hand, I found it very amusing that the driver held onto the grab handle by the window with his right hand for much of the time. Perhaps that made him feel safer.
Taxi driver on Ko Tao island
During the drive, it was interesting to see a truck in front of us carrying various items, as well as people who obviously had to unload them somewhere. The luggage was secured, while the people arranged themselves as best as they could.
Transporting cargo on Ko Tao island
And as for the island Ko Nang Yuan, there are several ways to get there, while I boarded a local wooden long-tail boat that I shared with a German couple. Just as an illustration, I paid 350 baht, which was about 10 euros for a round-trip ticket. The boatman took us to the pier on the island and we arrived around 9:30, with an agreement that he would pick us up at 12 o’clock.
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan is technically composed of three small islets – two are more like wooded hills rising from the sea, while the third, the smallest, is a relatively low stack of large rock formations. However, they are connected by sandy isthmuses, beside which are shallow and crystal-clear turquoise waters, providing a unique beauty to this place. There is even a resort where visitors can stay, similar to any other destination. On this third smallest member, located in the middle between these two larger ones to the north and south, there is also a restaurant welcoming day visitors like myself.
To start with, I marvelled at the transparent water at the pier, filled with colourful fish, and then I crossed a wooden bridge from the pier toward the central part of the island.
Ko Nang Yuan, a detail
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
There isn’t much to say here. The place is simply exceptionally charming, so I continued to take photos, first of the “main” beach and then of various details to the left and right of it.
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
The beach seemed extremely inviting, but I still decided to climb up to a viewpoint located on the southern hill first. To begin with, there is an elevated wooden path that the visitor needs to use.
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Although it was relatively early in the morning, the ascent was challenging due to high humidity, rising temperatures and the steep stairs leading uphill.
Ko Nang Yuan
Not only is it necessary to climb these stairs, but also one needs to scramble over some rocks in the end, so when I reached the viewpoint, I was all sweaty and flushed. However, it was worth it.
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
I was also fortunate that when I arrived that there was an Austrian couple. As he was taking photos of his wife, I asked him if he would be kind enough to take photos of me as well. He kindly agreed and the photos turned out really good. But, the place itself is like that.
At the viewpoint on Ko Nang Yuan island
After that, I descended to the beach, taking photos along the way and then enjoyed a bit of swimming.
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan
Selfie on Ko Nang Yuan
I then sat at a convenient spot where I could enjoy the beautiful view. However, the view gradually deteriorated over time as more and more people kept arriving.
Ko Nang Yuan island when tourists come for an excursion
Ko Nang Yuan island when tourists come for an excursion
I no longer had the desire to enter the water and even before noon, I was completely ready to return to Ko Tao. However, since I had the time and could fully relax, I also ordered a suitable cocktail in the middle of the day, which I don’t usually do. The colours of the cocktail perfectly matched the surroundings, so everything was in its place.
Blue cocktail on Ko Nang Yuan
As the time for departure approached, I headed towards the pier, continuing to take photos along the way since the island is exceptionally beautiful and abounds with numerous picturesque details, including a needlefish.
Ko Nang Yuan
Needlefish
Ko Nang Yuan
Ko Nang Yuan, a detail
Upon my return to the nearby Ko Tao, I took a taxi to get back to the hotel. Just for information, taxi drivers on the island extensively utilise the combination of a small island and their monopoly, making them relatively expensive. On the other hand, I believe that it is the only service on the island with prices that are excessively high. All other prices are quite decent.