By the time I returned from Kriens and started heading towards the Old Town, the clouds had already descended and snow was falling continuously. At first, I looked towards Lake Lucerne, which was now shrouded in mist, and I was glad that I had taken the boat trip before this change in the weather, as I was still able to see something.
Lake Lucerne when it’s snowing
But, on the other hand, I did choose to come to Switzerland for a short vacation at the end of November, so none of this weather-related stuff should come as a surprise and I didn’t complain. In fact, during the almost 5 days, I visited some beautiful parts of Switzerland and even went on a short "trip" to Germany. Here is the map showing all the places I visited during this short trip:
In order to reach the Old Town or Altstadt in Lucerne, I first crossed a modern bridge and from there I once again enjoyed the view of the Kapellbrücke bridge, which I wrote about in the previous part of my travel stories.
Lucerne, a detail
As it can be seen from the previous picture, snow had already started to accumulate on the roofs, but the streets were still just wet, not yet fully covered with snow.
Lucerne, a detail
The Old Town in Lucerne is known for its buildings whose facades are decorated with murals. Not all buildings are decorated like this, but there are many and they truly look very beautiful. A partial problem I faced was the snow that was falling intensely, so I had to find places where I could briefly shelter myself so that the snow wouldn’t wet the camera or the phone, as then I would see more of a wet spot than what I actually wanted to photograph.
Lucerne, a detail
The charm of old Lucerne is contributed to not only by these painted buildings, but also by the streets and squares themselves. So, I came to Hirschenplatz square, and here I had to step into an entrance that led to a shop, just to be a little protected from the snow blown by the wind.
Lucerne, a detail
Lucerne, a detail
There is also an interesting fountain here.
Lucerne, a detail
From experience I know that the water from the fountains in the centre of Bern is safe to drink and of very good quality. I assume the situation is similar in Lucerne, but I wondered if they added something to this water to prevent it from freezing, since the temperature had dropped below zero.
As for my walk, I continued towards Weinmarkt square. In the past, these buildings housed the headquarters of various guilds and many of them have painted facades. Here, at the square, there is also a fountain. This one is specifically done in the Gothic style.
Lucerne, a detail
Lucerne, a detail
Lucerne, a detail
I continued through the streets of old Lucerne and eventually arrived at another square. This one is called Mühlenplatz.
Lucerne, a detail
Lucerne, a detail
On this square, though a bit off to the side and in close proximity to the Reuss River, there is also a fountain. Despite the weather, the water flowed beautifully and unobstructedly from it. This is the Neptune drinking fountain.
Lucerne, a detail
Although I had been looking at restaurants during my walk, now I decided to focus more seriously on this topic. It was already well into the afternoon, it was cold and I felt the need for food, or rather, energy. In other words – I was hungry. I had already decided earlier that I would eat cheese fondue in Lucerne and now I needed to find a place for that.
Near this fountain, I spotted a restaurant I liked, but it turned out they didn’t offer cheese fondue. However, they were kind enough to tell me where this Swiss dish is considered to be good. The place they recommended was on a break for the afternoon, but a friendly woman literally walked me over to the neighbours, who were open all day. It might not have been the best fondue in town, but in the end, I was quite pleased.
I had already eaten cheese fondue before and since I really love cheeses, this could definitely be one of my favourite dishes if I had the opportunity to eat it often. As it is, it’s almost an "exotic" dish that I indulge in only occasionally, although it did inspire me to try making it at home. Some time ago in Paris, I bought a set for meat fondue (fondue bourguignon), but the principle is practically the same and what matters to me is having a burner and a stand.
So, I did just that. Traditional Swiss fondue is usually made with Gruyère cheese, while the addition of other cheeses depends on regional variations. Local cheeses are also used in different countries, such as France and Italy. I decided to try it with some cheeses I could find in Belgrade, and the result was very satisfying, although it’s definitely worth experimenting with different types of cheese that melt well until one finds the optimal combination.
Cheese fondue for which I used a pottery dish I had made myself
The preparation is quite simple. Here is the recipe:
CHEESE FONDUE
- 200 ml dry white wine
- 150 g of a strong, aged cow's cheese
- 150 g of a milder cheese
- 2 tablespoons of cornstarch
- 1 clove of garlic
- 1 tablespoon of lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon of Swiss cherry brandy (I used plum brandy)
- a bit of freshly grated nutmeg
The dish in which the fondue will be served should be rubbed with the cut side of the garlic clove. Grate the cheeses and mix them with the cornstarch. Place a small pot with wine on the stove and heat it slowly. Once it's well heated, add the cheese and gently stir to melt the cheese. Add the lemon juice, cherry brandy and nutmeg, and once the cheese is completely melted, transfer it to a dish that needs to be kept warm so the cheese stays melted longer. Serve with slightly stale bread cut into cubes.
As for me in Lucerne, in addition to the wonderful melted cheese, I also received, as is traditionally served, bread cubes and boiled young potatoes, while beer was the drink of my choice.
Lunch in Lucerne
Here is a short video showing what it all looked like.
With a wonderfully full stomach, a little later I went back outside with the intention of walking around Lucerne some more. What I hadn’t previously photographed, but did now, were the open parts of the restaurant that were already prepared to welcome evening guests. Everything was beautifully decorated and seemed quite romantic, but... What I couldn’t understand at all was that I didn’t see any heaters, except for the fur on the chairs and some coats, which I assumed weren’t hung there just for decoration. Despite the melted, hot cheese, any kind of meat and drinks, sitting outside in the cold weather would not have been enjoyable for me at all.
Lucerne, a detail (the fur coats may be seen to the left)
On the other hand, the scene was truly very beautiful and I was practically completely surprised when I realised that snow had seriously piled up while I was indulging in the wonderful fondue.
Lucerne, a detail
The situation with the snow became even clearer when I stepped out onto the quay by the Reuss River.
Lucerne, a detail
Although there are more interesting squares and streets in the Old Town of Lucerne, I now headed towards another important wooden bridge, called Spreuerbrücke. However, I navigated quite well through the narrow streets of Lucerne even without using a map on my phone, enjoying the snow that was falling more and more (I REALLY love falling snow), and I wandered around a bit. The sights were very fairytale-like (at least in my opinion), and I was very happy that I had come to Switzerland in winter.
Lucerne, a detail
Lucerne, a detail
And so I came to the already seen Mühlenplatz, which was now completely covered in snow. The Spreuerbrücke bridge practically starts from this square.
Lucerne, a detail
Spreuerbrücke bridge
The covered wooden footbridge, Spreuerbrücke, also known as the Mills Bridge, was built in 1408 and renovated in the 19th century.
The reason for the second name, Mills Bridge, is that the original bridge, built in the 13th century, only reached the mills located in the middle of the river. It wasn't until the early 15th century that the bridge connected both banks of the river.
At the very entrance to the covered part of the bridge, there is a very beautiful medallion, which I barely managed to photograph because of the snow that was falling intensely.
Spreuerbrücke, a detail
The bridge is famous for the paintings on triangular wooden panels, as they are placed between the roof beams, but I focused on those a little later. For now, I was photographing the bridge itself and various details and parts of the city that could be seen from it.
Spreuerbrücke bridge
The bridge has a "corner bend" at the spot where a small island is located and where dams still exist today.
Spreuerbrücke bridge
Spreuerbrücke bridge
Spreuerbrücke bridge
As for the paintings on the triangular wooden panels, those on the Spreuerbrücke bridge depict a complete cycle known as the "Dance of Death" (Danse Macabre). This is a late medieval allegory about the transience of life and the omnipresence of death. This theme has been intensively used in painting, literature and music since the 15th century, and more recently, in film as well.
Spreuerbrücke bridge
The Spreuerbrücke bridge contains the largest known example of the Dance of Death cycle. Originally, from 1616 to 1637, there were 67 paintings, but to this day, 45 have survived.
Spreuerbrücke, a detail
In addition, a small chapel was built on the bridge in 1568.
Spreuerbrücke bridge
It is only when you stand in front of it that you can see it is truly a chapel, as there is a small altar inside.
Spreuerbrücke, a detail
From here, I looked upstream along the Reuss River and then I could descend from the bridge and photograph it from the southern quay.
View from Spreuerbrücke bridge
Spreuerbrücke bridge
I also noted again the Reuss River and the parts of Lucerne that are visible along the river.
View at the Reuss River and the littoral Lucerne
In addition to the snow continuously falling, making it cloudy and gray, evening was slowly starting to set in, so I leisurely made my way towards the train station, not really looking at the map. I found it interesting to observe the various details I noticed along the way. For example, there were people whom the snow on the streets didn’t prevent from using bicycles. Some were simply pushing their bikes, but there were also those who successfully rode theirs and maintained their balance even on the wet and slippery surface.
Lucerne, a detail
Since the preparations for the Christmas holidays had already begun, I occasionally came across light decorations, which added a special charm to parts of the city.
Lucerne, a detail
I also occasionally noticed and photographed some details, such as a round staircase that seemed to "stand" on one leg, like a mushroom.
Lucerne, a detail
And so I came across a church, which I later realised was the Franciscan Church, and in the square in front of it, there was another fountain. As it was the snowing outside and it was getting dark, the lights from the church appeared warm, so I decided to go inside.
Franciscan Church
The church was originally built in the 13th century, but it has been renovated and extended multiple times throughout its history. The wood-carved pulpit from the 17th century is particularly notable.
Franciscan Church
Franciscan Church
After a short stay in the church, I went outside and continued my rather random walk, but at one point, I realised that this wasn’t the wisest approach. I don’t actually know Lucerne that well. So, I checked where I was on the map on my phone and once I confirmed that I was on the right path to the train station, I could completely relax and enjoy a nice coffee.
Coffee in Lucerne
Without rushing, I eventually went outside and headed towards the train station, admiring the beauty of the freshly fallen snow – even in urban conditions. Moreover, I think the city lights further enhance the beauty of the snowfall; at least in my eyes.
Lucerne, a detail
Before catching my train back to Zurich, I took a little walk around the small Christmas market set up near the station. Not all the stalls were open yet, but everything needed to make it picturesque was there – snow, lights and Christmas trees.
Lucerne, a detail
This is how I ended my visit to Lucerne. Perhaps I could have visited some more places in the city, but both the time and the weather didn’t make it easy for me, so those potential visits will have to wait for another opportunity. Still, my impressions are definitely very positive and I’m happy with the whole experience.
In that state, I boarded the first train to Zurich and when I arrived there I also came across the holiday season's lights and snow. Climbing the escalators from the underground part of the train station, I first enjoyed the view of Bahnhofstrasse, which is known as one of the most exclusive shopping streets. I wasn’t interested in shopping at all, but the street was truly elegantly decorated.
Zurich, a detail
Even the train station looked more beautiful than usual with the snow.
Zurich, a detail
Since I was in a very good mood, I decided not to go straight to my room, but rather to take a walk around the area where my room was located. It was the Old Town in Zurich and there I also came across a local Christmas market.
Zurich, a detail
All the stalls were open here, while the most popular one was the one selling mulled wine. Covered tables were set up in front of it, so customers had a place to put down their glasses.
Zurich, a detail
Zurich, a detail
Of course, I had to have a glass of wine as well. However, what surprised me was that they were offering white mulled wine. I had never tried that before, as I always drank red mulled wine, so I quickly made my decision.
Zurich, a detail
As I was sipping my mulled wine, I enjoyed the live music coming from the roof terrace of a nearby building.
Zurich, a detail
Here is a video version as well.
When I got back home, I had to make white mulled wine myself, of course. I can report that it turned out quite tasty. By the way, I make in the same way the traditional mulled wine, and that's red. Anyway, here’s the recipe for one person:
MULLED WINE
- 200 ml of wine (white or red; it should be sweet or at least semi-sweet)
- 1/2 tablespoon of sugar
- 2-3 cloves
- peel from half an orange or 1 mandarin
- a pinch of ground cinnamon
All the ingredients are placed in a pot and brought to a boil. Turn off the heat immediately and let the wine cook for another minute or two. Serve hot or warm.
Home-made white mulled wine served in a cup I have made myself
As for the mulled wine in Zurich, I found it interesting that they charged me 2 francs more than the regular price for the cardboard cup of wine, but they also asked me to return the empty cup. When I did, they refunded my 2 francs. I suppose this is how they control waste and promote recycling.
After returning the cup and getting my deposit back, I headed to my room.
Zurich, a detail
This was a very lovely and fulfilling day, and I needed rest because I was planning to go on another excursion the following day.