Sicily 2012, part 4 (Cefalù)
Besides going on various excursions and tours around this large Italian island during my vacation in Sicily in 2012, I also went almost every day to the centre of Cefalù, which was about a half-hour walk from the hotel. Along the coast there is a lovely promenade, so I didn’t find the walk difficult at all. On the other hand, I also went into town by bus a couple of times and on one occasion I found myself next to the city cemetery. The cemetery didn’t interest me at all and actually I don’t remember why I even went there, but in any case, from the area there is a very good view of the massive rock that rises above the town and has the fitting name La Rocca, which means “The Rock.” At the top there are interesting archaeological remains, so I promised myself that one day I would go there as well.
After getting off the bus near the cemetery and continuing towards the town centre, I passed by beautiful oleanders and large cacti, and I also came across an almond tree with a split fruit, which I found interesting as well.
Cefalù belongs to a group of smaller Italian settlements known collectively as “The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy” and the town centre is truly beautiful. Walking along one of the main streets, I saw some of the smaller churches, as well as numerous cafés, restaurants and souvenir shops, as befits a popular tourist destination.
But the side streets, where there is a greater sense of calm, also have their own charm.
As for religious buildings, the most significant is certainly the cathedral in Cefalù. Not only because it is the largest and spiritually most important, but also because it is part of a group of sites inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List under the name Arab-Norman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalù and Monreale.
The cathedral in Cefalù was built in the 12th century by order of the Norman king who ruled Sicily at the time. Like the other structures that belong to the aforementioned group of sites, the cathedral in Cefalù combines Norman, Arab and Byzantine styles, reflecting the rich cultural history of Sicily. Viewed from the outside, two massive towers with a square base stand out in particular.
Between the towers is a three-part portico with arches, added in the 15th century, which shows Gothic influences. The main portal is richly decorated with stone ornaments and reliefs, and above it there is a large window that illuminates the interior of the church. The façade is simple but monumental, built of yellow stone that changes shade in the sunlight.
It is a three-aisled church whose central nave is separated from the side aisles by rows of massive columns with richly decorated capitals.
The most significant part of the interior is the apse with the magnificent Byzantine mosaic of Christ Pantocrator, created in the 12th century.
But there are also many other very beautiful and picturesque details to be seen there.
From the terrace in front of the cathedral entrance, you can get a good view of the square, as well as the neighbouring bishop’s palace, which was built between the 16th and 18th centuries and serves as the administrative centre of the diocese.
Just a couple of hundred meters from the square in front of the cathedral, on the northern edge of the town, you also reach the Postern Gate and the megalithic walls.
Namely, the megalithic walls date back to ancient times and were built from huge stone blocks precisely fitted together without the use of mortar. They are believed to originate from the period of Greek colonisation of Sicily and were later used by the Romans as well. The so-called “postern gate” refers to a small, often hidden secondary gate within the city walls that served as a side exit from the town, often for military or strategic purposes. These ramparts testify to Cefalù’s important defensive position throughout history.
The entire northern edge of the town consists of rocks and I enjoyed walking there in several places and taking photos of what it looks like.
But, once you leave the rocky northern coast, you first walk through the town’s streets and soon you can reach the popular city beach – Spiaggia del Porto Vecchio. It is located right next to the old town centre and is made of fine sand. Since it is sheltered by a pier, the water there is usually calmer and warmer than in some other areas.
That very pier is also a nice spot worth walking along (it is about a hundred metres long), as it offers an excellent view of the town and some of its details.
But in Cefalù, you can also see other interesting places, along with the always charming and picturesque streets.
One such place is the Medieval Washhouse.
It is a medieval public washhouse from the 16th century, built on the foundations of older structures. It is reached by stairs that lead down to a series of stone basins through which a natural water spring flows. The water comes from an underground stream of the Cefalino River, which supplied the town for centuries.
The site once served the townspeople for washing clothes and was an important part of daily life. Today, it is an interesting historical attraction and testifies to the town’s former urban organisation.
On the other hand, even if a visitor doesn’t tour any specific sites and just strolls through the streets, day or night, the experience is still very enjoyable and fulfilling.
However, even if one were to spend the entire time on the beach, if that is what one craves, it is perfectly fine as well.
Still, the view of the town and the rocky hill above it always reminded me that I had promised myself I would climb to the top and see what there is to explore.
That’s exactly what I did one day, so right after breakfast, before it got too hot, I took a bus to the base from where the hiking trail begins.
It’s already worth stopping along the way to look around, as the view is very beautiful and picturesque.
But, let’s be honest, I was taking these breaks to catch my breath. After all, it was July and the temperature was already high even in the morning.
At some point, through a stone gate, you enter an area with the remains of various structures.
I decided to go first to the top and then, on the way back, explore the interesting sights that can be seen here, although I certainly took photos of various things I came across along the way.
On the hill La Rocca above Cefalù, you can see a variety of archaeological remains that testify to the multi-layered history of the entire area.
At the very top there are remains of a medieval citadel known as Cefalù Castle. The castle was built in the 12th–13th centuries, likely during Norman rule, as a strategic fortification that controlled the coast and protected the town from attacks by sea. Today, parts of the ramparts, walls and towers have been preserved, following the natural contours of the rock and attesting to its defensive function.
Here I came across a couple of other visitors, so I took the opportunity to ask them to take my picture.
And then I continued walking a bit more around the very top.
Although the remains of this castle are modest, its position at nearly 270 m above sea level offers a spectacular view of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the surrounding area, clearly showing why this location was extremely important throughout history.
When I started to make my way down slowly, I first went to the megalithic complex known as the Diana Temple.
The structure actually dates back to the early 1st millennium BCE, while some elements may be even older, making it one of the oldest preserved structures at this site. The walls are built from large, irregular stone blocks arranged using dry-stone techniques, without the application of mortar.
One of the most striking features is the stone gateways made of large blocks, with the lintel formed from a single massive horizontally placed stone resting on upright side blocks (jambs).
By the way, the name “Diana Temple” comes from a later tradition and there is no solid evidence that the structure was dedicated to the Roman goddess Diana. Over the centuries, the building underwent modifications, especially during the Greek and medieval periods, but the core megalithic structure has been preserved.
After visiting this structure, I went to a terrace that offered another beautiful view. On this occasion, the main focus for me was on the rooftops of the houses in Cefalù.
I continued walking on the hill La Rocca, but by now with the clear intention of descending back to the town.
However, from the trail I spotted the small Church of St. Anna, so I climbed up to it a little.
The church probably dates back to the 13th century and was part of a larger fortified and inhabited area at the top of the rock. It is a simple, single-nave building of modest dimensions. Its presence near the megalithic complex and the medieval castle attests to the continuity of the use of this space through different historical periods.
Right next to the church are the remains of a multi-room structure, though I don’t know what it once contained. Still, I found it interesting and took a couple of photos more.
And now it was finally time to descend to the base.
I was extremely pleased with this personal achievement and the fact that I wasn’t too lazy, as I had made it to the hill La Rocca and climbed to its top. Admittedly, the rest of the vacation was fairly ordinary and monotonous – lounging on the beach, with only occasional trips or walks to the centre of Cefalù.
Still, even though this was, in a sense, a very limited and modest exploration of such a large island as Sicily (which covers an area of 27,708 sq. km), I was very pleased in the end. I also left with a desire and inspiration to return here, though certainly not in the height of summer when it’s too hot to explore comfortably and leisurely.
For now, here is a map showing all the places and sites I visited during this trip:
And instead of a conclusion, here’s one more sweet recipe. It’s not an Italian specialty, but in my version it definitely has a connection to Italy. The recipe is for meringue rolls, which I already mentioned when I wrote about Palermo. There, I bought metal moulds for making Sicilian cannoli, but they are also perfect for shaping meringue rolls. To recap, meringue rolls were once extremely popular and an essential type of pastry offered in all confectioneries in the former Yugoslavia. Times have changed, tastes perhaps too, and certainly fashions. And yet, I still love these sweets and make them occasionally.
The metal moulds I bought in Palermo are just one connection to Italy. Another is that it’s best to make Italian meringue (there is also French and Swiss). So, to get to the point; here is a picture, and the recipe follows.
MERINGUE ROLLS
- 250 g of ready-made puff pastry (half a frozen package)
- 2 egg whites
- 120 g sugar
- 40 ml water
- a pinch of salt
- a few drops of lemon juice
Roll out thinly the puff pastry into a rectangle and cut it into 10 strips. Spiral each strip around a metal cannoli mould. Brush them with beaten egg yolk mixed with 1 teaspoon of cold water. Bake at 200°C for about 15 minutes. Carefully remove the moulds and let the rolls cool.
Prepare the meringue using the Italian method. First, combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan. Cook over medium heat until the syrup reaches the “soft ball” stage (a drop of syrup dropped into cold water should form a soft, pliable ball).
While the syrup is heating, add a pinch of salt and a few drops of lemon juice to the egg whites and beat with a mixer until frothy and starting to form soft peaks. By this time, the syrup should be ready.
Slowly pour the syrup in a thin stream into the egg whites while continuing to beat with the mixer. Beat for 5–7 minutes until the mixture is completely cooled, glossy, thick and forms stiff peaks. Use this to fill the puff pastry rolls and dust with icing sugar.