Sicily 2012, part 2 (Mount Etna, Palermo)
Mount Etna is an active volcano on the eastern coast of Sicily and one of Italy’s most famous natural attractions. Its height varies due to frequent eruptions, but it currently reaches about 3,329 m, making it the largest volcano in Europe and also the highest mountain on a Mediterranean island. Etna is constantly active and its eruptions have been recorded since the 8th century BCE, which makes it one of the longest observed volcanoes in the world, as well as the most active stratovolcano on Earth. The area around the volcano is rich in fertile soil thanks to volcanic ash, which provides ideal conditions for vineyards, orchards and olive groves.
Since 2013, the mountain has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage List due to its geological and ecological significance. The area of this natural site inscribed on the World Heritage List covers nearly 20,000 uninhabited hectares in the highest part of Mount Etna.
Although it often happens that the airport in the nearby city of Catania is closed due to volcanic eruptions, when the mountain is calm, visitors can explore some of the craters, hiking trails, and cable cars, while in winter Etna also becomes a popular ski resort.
That is how, during my stay in Sicily in the summer of 2012, as part of a one-day excursion, after visiting the village of Savoca and the town of Taormina, about which I wrote in the previous instalment of these stories, I also reached Etna. The plan was to come by coach to a large parking area and then during free time, members of the group could walk around the surroundings, including visiting some of the smaller side craters, which were quite calm at the time and allowed for such a visit.
Even before going to Sicily, I knew about this excursion, as well as the option to go further up the mountain for an additional fee. Namely, that parking area is located at nearly 2,000 m above sea level, but with a special ticket and a licensed guide, it is possible to reach an altitude of about 3,000 m. I even brought, specifically for that occasion, in the middle of summer, a fleece jacket and a lightweight wind jacket from home. An altitude of 3,000 m is always a serious matter, regardless of whether it is in the middle of the Mediterranean or anywhere else.
Still, let me first include here a geographical map showing all the places I visited during this holiday in Sicily.
As for Etna, upon arriving at the parking area, I quickly headed towards the cable car. It turned out that I was the only one in the group who wanted to go further up the mountain, so the guide helped me buy that special ticket and I soon boarded a cable car cabin that carried me upward.
From the cabin, I could see one of those side craters that can be easily reached from the parking area.
As I’ve said, it snows here in winter, so you can also see the chairs that are part of the ski lift, as well as the dirt road leading to the higher parts of the mountain.
Although much of the landscape appears very inhospitable and almost barren, here and there you can still see plants slowly beginning to take over the slopes of Etna.
Etna is also significant because it hosts important ecosystems, including endemic flora and fauna, making it, like a natural laboratory, an interesting place for researchers studying ecological and biological processes.
At the top of the cable car, at an altitude of about 2,500 m above sea level, there is even a bar where you can stop for food and drinks, but I had neither the time nor the interest for that.
From there, minibuses also depart, taking visitors, and likely researchers as well, to other parts of the mountain.
Although it was already starting to get cold, I first took a photo in the thin blouse I had put on over the sleeveless top I wore while walking around Taormina, but I was already seriously thinking about taking warm clothes out of my backpack.
Behind me, in the previous photograph, you can see the peaks of Etna, but before continuing the excursion, I took pictures of the cable car, the smaller side craters, as well as the parking area and its surroundings.
Nearby, I also saw charming flowers that somehow managed to grow on what seemed like barren ground.
Soon, we set off in a minibus that followed the dirt road.
At one point, we stopped and got out of the minibus to go for a walk of about 40 minutes. The place where the minibus drove to is called the Philosopher’s Tower (Torre del Filosofo), and it is located at 2,920 m above sea level on the southern side of the volcano, near the summit with the craters. The name comes from the legend that the Greek philosopher Empedocles (circa 490–430 BCE) from Agrigento used to come here to study eruptions and the nature of the volcano, and there is even a story that he ended his life here by throwing himself into a crater.
From this spot, there is an impressive view of several active craters at Etna’s summit, which I was able to see and photograph much more clearly.
The wind was blowing quite strongly and I was delighted that I had brought my jackets. However, there was a couple in the group with a little girl and they were all dressed more or less as if they had come from the beach. I wasn’t worried about the parents at all, since they were adults, but even though I would have really enjoyed wearing the fleece jacket myself, I couldn’t have calmly left the little girl to freeze, so I gave her the fleece jacket and I used only the wind jacket during the walk. Still, it was a good windcheater and it really kept the cold wind from reaching my body, although the temperature was certainly low. You could also see this from the patches of snow that had remained in one spot from the previous season.
But it wasn’t cold everywhere. There were some spots where steam was rising strongly from the ground.
Still, in several places those remnants of snow could be seen, even though just a few dozen metres away steam was rising from the ground, which is by definition at least warm, if not hot.
Although the entire group walked together, with the guide’s permission I occasionally went a few dozen metres ahead to take photos and in this way I captured the group at a pass, which gives a good sense of the scale of the area we were passing through.
On the other hand, the path climbed uphill, so in the next photo you can also see the previously photographed trail with the railing, but from a higher vantage point.
Impressive details could be seen on the other side, as well, such as the crater peaks and the steam rising, but it should be noted that I occasionally used zoom while taking the photos.
The multicoloured rocks, sand and cooled lava were especially impressive in one area, which I photographed several times.
At one point, the guide drew our attention to a small hole. Even though there was no visible steam, when you brought your hand close, you could clearly feel the heat, which was obviously coming from deep within the earth.
The rest of the walk was equally interesting, though without any particularly notable additional information. The landscapes were both simple and impressive.
I was extremely pleased with taking this excursion, so before we began descending by minibus back to the cable car, I had my photo taken with the peaks of Etna in the background.
On the way back, everything went just like on the way up, only in reverse: a minibus ride, followed by the descent in the cable car.
At the parking area, I rejoined the original group of tourists from Serbia and then the coach went to drop us off at different hotels, so I returned to Cefalù.
In the following days, the holiday continued at its own pace and I occasionally took photos from the hotel terrace of the centre of Cefalù, with the rocky and picturesque hill rising above the town.
Then, one day, that woman I was on holiday with and I took the train to Palermo, which was a kind of private excursion for us. We began by stepping out onto the square in front of the central train station building.
Palermo is the capital of Sicily and it is a vibrant city with a very rich history. It was founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BCE and over the centuries it was ruled by Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards, leaving a strong mark on its architecture and culture. The city is particularly known for its unique Arab-Norman style, which is why it has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a group property, together with the cathedrals in Cefalù and Monreale. Although it has faced periods of political and social challenges throughout history, today Palermo is a dynamic city that combines history, art and modern life. Thanks to its diverse heritage and warm climate, it is one of the most fascinating destinations in Sicily.
We began by walking along the city’s larger streets.
But very quickly, we turned into some side streets and arrived at the famous Ballarò Market (Mercato di Ballarò).
The Ballarò Market is the oldest and most picturesque market in Palermo, located in the historic Albergheria district. Its roots go back to the Arab period when the city was under the rule of the Emirate of Sicily, while today fresh fish, seafood, fruits, vegetables, spices, and traditional Sicilian products are displayed daily. The vendors are known for loudly calling out to customers, creating an authentic and energetic atmosphere typical of southern Italy. However, the woman I was travelling with wasn’t adventurous enough and didn’t want to “venture further,” as she found it all a bit intimidating, so we only explored the edges of the market. For me, though, it was unforgettable because it was there that I bought moulds for making the famous Sicilian cannoli. Upon returning, I realised that these short metal tubes are also perfect for cream rolls that used to be very popular in pastry shops, but are nowadays rarely made, except, perhaps, by me.
So now is the perfect opportunity to start sharing the recipes for my versions of these sweets. One will be in this instalment, while the other a little later.
SICILIAN CANNOLI
- 150 g flour
- 25 g sugar
- 1 teaspoon cocoa powder
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- 20 g lard
- 1 egg yolk
- a little grated lemon zest
- 1 teaspoon brandy (or vinegar)
- 50 ml sweet wine (originally Marsala is used)
- 1 teaspoon instant coffee powder
1 egg white
300 g ricotta cheese
- 100 g icing sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon orange blossom water
- 40 g candied fruit of your choice
- 50 g chopped dark chocolate
Mix the dry ingredients for the cannoli dough. The lard should be at room temperature so it’s soft and then combine it with the dry ingredients, adding the egg yolk and grated lemon zest. Knead together with the brandy and wine in which the instant coffee has been dissolved, adding gradually to control the dough’s softness. The final dough should be smooth and elastic. Wrap it in plastic wrap and let it rest in the refrigerator for about an hour.
Roll the dough out with a rolling pin to about 2–3 mm thick, then cut out round shapes (about 10 cm in diameter). Each piece of dough should be gently stretched with your fingers to form an oval shape. Grease the metal cannoli tubes with lard, then wrap the dough around them so it overlaps. Brush the overlapping dough with egg white and gently press to prevent it from separating during frying.
Fry the cannoli in hot oil for a few minutes, taking care not to burn them. Remove from the oil and place on paper towels to drain. After 1–2 minutes, carefully remove the metal tubes and let the fried shells cool completely.
If the ricotta is very wet, place it in cheesecloth over a strainer and leave it overnight. Put the ricotta in a food processor, add icing sugar and blend until smooth and creamy. Add the orange blossom water and mix well. Candied fruit and chopped chocolate can be added to the cheese, but this is optional; they can also be used to decorate the outside of the cannoli. In any case, fill the cannoli shells with the cheese mixture before serving and dust with icing sugar.
As for my walk through Palermo, I first passed by the Church of Sant’Antonio Abate, which was first mentioned in 1220, but over the centuries it underwent numerous restorations and reconstructions. The last major repairs were carried out after a strong earthquake in 1823.
Walking further, I peeked into the side streets and admired the impressive buildings along the main streets.
And so we arrived at the Church of San Domenico, an important Baroque church. It was built in the 13th century and has been restored multiple times over the years, giving its architecture a layered and richly detailed appearance. Inside, apparently, one can see lavish altars, frescoes and sculptures, but I did not go in.
I found it much more interesting to climb onto the rooftop terrace of the shopping centre located right next to Piazza San Domenico, from where there is a panoramic view of the church, the square and the surrounding city rooftops.
From there, you could also see the tall monument dedicated to the Immaculate Conception (Colonna dell’Immacolata). Erected in the 18th century, it is an important symbol of devotion in Palermo. The monument is topped with a statue of the Virgin Mary, while the lower figures and decorations are intricately carved.
Then we backtracked a little to visit one of the most famous historic markets in Palermo –Vucciria, located near the port and the Kalsa district.
It was once the city’s main market for meat and fish, but even today, besides various products that may be more interesting to tourists than to locals, there is still a very good selection of meat and fish. I was much more drawn to the section where the fish were sold.
But, in this part of the city, there are also very interesting and picturesque details. Some are not broadly known or are less known, like those in the next few photographs.
On the other hand, there are also some fairly well-known details, each of which has, in its own way, become a symbol of the city or at least a place popular among visitors interested in sightseeing.
One such place is the Genius of Garraffo or Palermo the Great. It is one of the most famous representations of Palermo’s mythical protector – a crowned old man feeding a snake from his chest, a symbol of wisdom and the city’s eternal renewal.
There is also the Garraffello Fountain, which dates back to the 16th century. Its name comes from the Arabic word gharraf, meaning “abundance of water,” because the fountain was once an important source of drinking water for residents and merchants. It is recognisable by its stone basin and simple yet elegant Renaissance design. Over the centuries, it has been moved and restored several times, especially after damage during World War II. Today, it stands as a historical symbol of Palermo’s once lively commercial centre and a testament to its layered past.
The walk through Palermo’s historic centre was truly picturesque, while after a brief exploration of the area around the Vucciria Market, we headed towards the waterfront...