Peloponnese 2023, part 6 (Epidaurus)
The most famous antique theatre from Ancient Greece is undoubtedly the one in Epidaurus. However, let me clarify something first.
The theatre I'm talking about is a part of the ancient Sanctuary of Asclepius, Asclepieion, and everyone refers to it as the theatre in Epidaurus. This isn’t entirely inaccurate, but it’s important to differentiate it from the theatre in ancient Epidaurus, which is located about 16 km east of the Sanctuary of Asclepius and is also significant, though much less so than this renowned site. I’ll elaborate on that a bit later, but for now, let’s focus on what is surely the most famous theatre from ancient Greece. So, we are talking about the Ancient Theatre at the Asclepieion of Epidaurus, or simply, for those who don’t want to get into the details – the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus.
When I first visited here many years ago with my friend Vesna, we, like in Mycenae, came as part of a day trip from Athens. That trip left a lasting impression on me and, in a way, shaped my fate as a traveller, especially because of the visit to Epidaurus.
When we arrived as a group, the guide only gave us about 15-20 minutes because “we don’t have much time.” I remember racing up the steps to the very top, which turned out to be not so bad because at that time, the guide for another group – who I think were Spaniards – was lighting matches in the middle of the orchestra (the flat, circular part of the theatre) to demonstrate how even such a quiet action can be heard from all parts of the theatre. I can personally confirm this because I could hear the striking of the matches behind me while I was running up the steps. Impressive!
It’s also impressive that I was able to run all the way to the top in one go, but I won’t brag too much; that was many, many years ago.
After visiting the theatre itself, I quickly glanced at the rest of the site because I had to hurry back to the group and the bus.
And why did that experience influence my subsequent travels? Well, afterwards, we went to a souvenir shop where our guide told us we could stay for “as long as we wanted”! I was furious. It was fine that people in the group were shopping and that she was earning a commission, but I had come on this trip to explore, not to shop and waste time in such places.
All in all, I promised myself then that I would avoid tourist groups whenever possible. And I’ve been pretty good at that, with only few exceptions.
As for the Asclepieion or the Sanctuary of Asclepius at Epidaurus, it was dedicated to the ancient Greek god of medicine. However, it wasn’t just a religious site; it also housed hospital facilities alongside temples.
Evidence found at the site indicates that ceremonial healing practices were performed here since the 2nd millennium BCE, but it truly reached its peak in the 6th century BCE when the previously revered cult of god Apollo was supplemented by the cult of Asclepius, the son of Apollo. The talent for healing was evidently a family trait, as two of Asclepius’s daughters were renowned in this regard – Hygieia, the goddess of health, cleanliness and hygiene, and Panacea, the goddess of universal remedies.
In addition to his natural talent and innate skills, Asclepius also learned his craft from snakes, which the Ancient Greeks considered sacred beings symbolising wisdom, healing and resurrection. This brings us to the Rod of Asclepius, carried by this god, depicted as a staff around which a single snake is coiled. This is now the most common symbol of medicine and healthcare. It’s worth noting that it should not be confused with the caduceus, which is Hermes’s staff with two intertwined snakes.
But let me return to the story of the Sanctuary of Asclepius at Epidaurus, which is considered the earliest organised sanatorium and serves as evidence of the transition from belief in divine healing to medical science. In its time, it became the most important therapeutic centre of the ancient world, with practices that later spread throughout the Roman world and beyond, making the sanctuary in Epidaurus a cradle of (Western) medicine.
Interestingly, especially from a modern perspective, this sanctuary included not only hospital facilities and baths, but also a library, sports facilities, accommodation and more. There were also temples dedicated to Artemis and Asclepius, as well as the Tholos, the Enkoimeterion and the Propylon. However, the site is perhaps best known for its theatre.
The theatre, along with a few other structures, was built in the 4th century BCE and is considered a masterpiece of ancient Greek architecture. Not only does it have perfect architectural proportions, but it is also renowned for its exceptional acoustics and its appearance is simply magnificent. Due to its beauty, harmony and elegance, as well as its excellent preservation, the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus has been inscribed on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List. It is also listed as a part of a group cultural heritage site on the UNESCO’s Tentative List (of World Heritage) as “Ancient Greek Theatres,” alongside about a dozen other ancient Greek theatres.
When I arrived here, I did look around a little, but I soon climbed to the top of the theatre and took pictures of the entire theatre and its surroundings from there.
The theatre was built on the slopes of Mount Kynortion and faces the sacred valley dedicated to Asclepius.
The orchestra, the circular centre of the theatre, has a diameter of 20.28 meters, while in the middle of the orchestra stands the base of an altar to god Dionysus.
The seating area, which is slightly larger than a semicircle, can accommodate 14,000 visitors, with seats arranged in two zones (upper and lower) across 55 rows.
After enjoying the magnificent view from the top of the theatre, I made my way back down to the orchestra and recited my favourite (and only known) passage from ancient literature – the opening of the “Iliad.” I love in places like this to imagine that this was what it might have felt like to perform there.
Then I took a leisurely stroll around the site and visited a small archaeological museum where I could see some interesting exhibits. I was more interested in the site itself, so the first structure I came across – or rather, the ruins of it – was the Katagogion, which means “hostel,” dating back to the 4th century BCE. Covering an area of nearly 6,000 sq. m, it was used to accommodate visitors to the sanctuary, pilgrims, patients and their companions.
Here, I also came across a few birds. One was a Eurasian jay (Garrulus glandarius) and the other was a Eurasian chaffinch (Fringilla coelebs).
And then I reached the main structures within the sanctuary. The first of these is the Banquet Hall or the Hestiatorion Complex.
Parallel to this structure, there are trees providing lovely shade and scattered among them are various stone blocks that have been found at the site, while their origin is likely unknown.
As for the Hestiatorion, it was constructed in 300 BCE and served as a ceremonial building where ritual meals were shared as part of the cult of Asclepius. These meals often involved sacrificial offerings.
A part of the complex, on the northern side, is the monumental Propylon, which has been partially reconstructed. It served as the main entrance to the site.
Here, there are several significant structures, such as the Temple of Artemis, but only their foundations have survived to this day.
The most significant temple was undoubtedly dedicated to the god Asclepius. Today, only its foundations can be seen at this site.
It was a smaller Doric temple with a rectangular plan, built in the 4th century BCE. Inside the temple stood a statue of Asclepius made of gold and ivory, depicting the god seated on a throne. To the south of the temple was an altar where sacrifices were offered.
In the previous photo, you can see two other significant structures and I first headed towards the one on the right, which is the Abaton or Enkoimeterion.
The Abaton, a structure in the form of a stoa and built on two levels, measures 70 m long and 10 m wide. It was constructed around the same time as the temple, but was later expanded by the Romans. This space essentially served as a dormitory where sick individuals would sleep in the hope that the god would appear to them in a dream. This period was referred to as “incubation.”
Healing was considered a mystery, so those who had not properly prepared themselves for Asclepius were not allowed to enter. On one side, the upper level featured high stone screens set between 31 Ionic columns, while on the other side, patients had to undergo a clear procedure before they could lie down and dream of the god.
The healing procedure first involved making sacrifices to the gods, after which patients would enter the Abaton and ritually purify themselves with water from a sacred well. They would then read narrations about miraculous healings. Once they felt sufficiently “immersed in the story,” they would move to the lower level and lie on the ground, on the hides of the animals that had been sacrificed, hoping that sleep would soon come, along with Asclepius himself. The dream symbolised the death of their illness, while the god would grant them a healthy life. The expected outcomes were either direct healing during the dream or an appearance of Asclepius, after which the priests would interpret the dream’s message and recommend a course of treatment. Depending on the case, this could involve physical exercises, relaxation, bathing in the baths or intellectual activities. This is precisely why all the structures I have previously mentioned were built here – such as the theatre, library, baths and sports facilities. Interestingly, the Romans gradually introduced a more scientific approach to healing in this place, but, as is still the case today, one of the main elements remained the patient’s faith in their healing.
In the back of the room on the lower level of the Abaton, you can see reproductions of reliefs along with descriptions of what they show, specifically the miraculous healings. These stories include cases of issues related to fertility, as well as bites from venomous snakes.
Opposite the Abaton is another significant structure, the Tholos or Rotunda, dating back to the 4th century BCE.
The structure, the remains of which were under scaffolding during my visit, has a circular plan with a diameter of 21.50 meters, externally surrounded by a row of 26 Doric columns on a three-step platform. The function of this building is not fully understood, but based on some elements and the legend that says that Zeus killed Asclepius, who was then buried in Epidaurus, while a star was named after him in order to console Apollo, the sad father, it is believed that the Tholos likely represented a simulation of Asclepius’s underground dwelling from where the god could continue to heal people.
Now I slowly made my way towards the exit, passing by the remains of the Stadium. Physical exercises were often a key part of the healing process, while the Asklepian Games, featuring athletic and poetic or musical competitions, were held here every four years. These games are mentioned as early as the 5th century BCE and they continued until the 2nd century CE.
The Stadium was built in a natural depression, with a rectangular field measuring 180.7 by 22.06 m. The first version of the stadium was constructed as early as the 5th century BCE, while the stone seating was added from the 4th to the 1st century BCE.
Along the way, I passed by the Greek Baths, which were built around 300 BCE. They received their name as they are the oldest baths on the site, while all the other baths were constructed during the Roman period.
Then I drove to a modern place called Archaia Epidauros, which means “Ancient Epidaurus,” located on the coast. Here, you can see the remains of the Theatre at the Ancient City of Epidaurus, the other theatre I mentioned at the beginning of this story when I noted the two similarly named sites.
This theatre in ancient Epidaurus is not as well-known as the one at the Sanctuary of Asclepius, nor is it as impressive or well-preserved. However, since I was nearby, I wanted to come here and clarify the difference between the two theatres with similar names.
However, it turned out that the theatre was closed for renovations, so I could only take a glimpse of it through the fence.
After that, I made my way down to the beach south of the theatre. While the beach itself may not be particularly remarkable, it is very interesting because the remains of the ancient city of Epidaurus can be seen in the shallow waters.
During my visit, there was a strong wind and I had no intention of entering the water, but I noticed a few people swimming with masks on. In fact, even on Google Maps, this spot is marked as the Sunken City of Ancient Epidaurus.
So, I just took photos of the sea and parts of the beach from the shore, and that was that.
Now I was ready to continue my day trip by car from Nafplio. My plan included driving along the coastal areas of the large Argolid Peninsula on the far eastern side of the Peloponnese. Here’s a map showing all the places I visited during my trip in September 2023.