Norway 2024, part 15 (Rjukan, Lake Tinn, Heddal, Kongsberg)
On the last day of my stay in Norway in April 2024, I had an evening flight back to Belgrade from Oslo Airport, which meant I had to drive about 230 km. However, I had planned everything perfectly, even to arrive at the airport an hour before the scheduled time for returning the car because my idea was to do everything calmly and without stress. That’s how I planned it, but the Universe had other ideas. In any case, I didn’t rush too much.
I even took a little walk along the Måna River in Rjukan, which wasn’t a problem since the guesthouse where I stayed was nearby. As I mentioned in part 14 of my travelogue, when I arrived in Rjukan the previous day, I found out that I was the only guest at the guesthouse, which wasn’t exactly small. Half of the building, including the reception area, was under renovation, that was clear, but even in the half where I was staying, there was no one else – neither a guest nor any staff members. Not only did the whole town of Rjukan resemble a ghost town, but this guesthouse also reflected the spirit of the place.
The night before, when I returned from dinner and went to my room, I realised I didn’t have internet because I didn’t know the password. It was quite important for me to resolve this, so I locked my room (just in case) and then started walking through the empty corridors of the guesthouse. Left and right, down, along a long hallway, to a door that was closed but not locked, then using some stairs to another door... Finally, I reached the room where the reception was located, where, of course, there was absolutely no one. However, from experience, I know that there are often signs at receptions with the username and password for the internet, and that was the case here too, so soon I had a connection to the outside world.
The internet connection was good and the room where I stayed was both good and comfortable, but... I usually don’t comment on prices – either I can afford something or I can’t, and that’s the end of it. However, ... I did pay for the room here, in other words, I could afford it, but I still consider this the most overpriced place I have ever stayed at. Norway is known for being an expensive country, but I can’t say that the price of the room at this guesthouse in Rjukan was high – it was outrageously inappropriate.
But let me return to the story about the short walk along the Måna River. It was a nice, sunny and slightly chilly morning, but that freshness and light felt quite pleasant.
I soon left Rjukan, but I quickly stopped to take a few photos of the narrow valley where Rjukan is located, which I was just leaving, as well as the surrounding mountains, now bathed in the morning sun.
By the way, Rjukan isn’t just a destination for idle people like me who are “chasing” UNESCO World Heritage sites; it also offers many hiking and trekking trails, beautiful waterfalls and so on. Of course, I couldn’t do any of that as I didn’t have the time, but I’m not complaining.
Soon, I reached the vicinity where the Måna River flows into Lake Tinn.
I drove over the bridge visible in the previous photo, but soon I stopped again at a large parking area. From there, I had a great view of part of Lake Tinn, which, with an area of over 51 sq. km, is one of the largest lakes in Norway. Its maximum length is 35 km and on this day I was driving along a road that closely followed the shoreline of the lake. The views were occasionally incredibly beautiful, but I could stop very rarely.
Not knowing what the road and views would be like later on, I stopped here because there was plenty of space. I was also pleased to see very long and not too soft grass, which was so dense that it felt like walking on some kind of cushion.
Not far off, I also passed by the Mæl Station, which was an important part of the Rjukan-Notodden industrial complex.
As for the road, it occasionally ascended above the level of the lake, but there were relatively few places where I could stop. Nonetheless, every moment was worth it.
One spot was particularly beautiful. There was no parking there, just a turn-off from the main road that was essentially a private drive, but I stopped very briefly, took the photos I wanted and then continued along the main road.
A bit farther on, the road veered away from the lake and once again led through areas where a lot of trees were being cut down for lumber production.
As I’ve mentioned earlier, Norway has only about 2% of arable land, whereas, for comparison, Serbia has around 30%. Among other things, this is why Norway had to, and still has to, find other sources of income.
By the mid-1970s, oil exploration began, which initially didn’t yield good results. However, large oil and gas fields were later discovered in Norway’s territorial waters in the North Sea and today, about 20% of the revenue of this wealthy Scandinavian country comes from the production of these energy resources.
In the meantime, I was driving past the rare agricultural fields that were ready for the new production season.
At some point, I arrived at the Heddal Stave Church (Heddal stavkyrke). This wooden church also opens seasonally starting in early May, but it was conveniently on my route, so it made perfect sense to stop by.
This church is also surrounded by a cemetery, so I first took a quick look around the churchyard and then I went to the main gate that leads to the church.
Heddal Stave Church was most likely built in the early 13th century and, of course, it is entirely made of wood, though it is set on a stone foundation. Out of the 28 surviving medieval wooden churches in Norway, this one in Heddal is considered one of the largest and is certainly the only one with three towers.
The church is still in use today, but only during the summer when it is open to visitors. Additionally, from what I’ve read, it is quite popular for weddings.
As I walked from the parking area to the church, I saw a couple of elderly women entering the churchyard, so I assumed that at least the gate was not locked.
However, as I approached the church, I heard some voices and soon saw some young people exiting the ambulatory. Once they left, I entered and took some photos of the main door with the intention of walking around the nave of the church.
The western portal is nowadays primarily used to enter the church, but this was not always the case. In the Middle Ages, women entered from the northern side, men entered from the southern side, while priests also entered from the south, but directly into the choir area.
The western portal was used for children being brought into the church for baptism. It was believed that the devil had power over those who were not baptised, so this door needed to have decorations providing the utmost protection. As a result, it features a multitude of serpents and dragons – “with evil shall evil be expelled.”
On the left pillar is a somewhat grotesque, bent-over lion symbolising Christ's victory over Judas (depicted here as a lion), while on the right side are two bears engaged in their struggle, holding each other by the snouts. This representation is meant to bind and prevent devilry from entering the church.
For some unclear reason, it occurred to me to try the door and it... opened. I was completely confused but also absolutely thrilled. Inside, there were 3-4 people, so I went in. A lady approached me and asked which language I spoke, so when we established that it was English, she informed me that the church was open as a matter of exception, for a private viewing, but she could let me stay for a short while.
After I had looked around and taken photos of the inside of the church, I asked the lady if I could walk around the ambulatory and she replied: "Yes, but quickly."
Indeed, as quickly as I could, I completed the walk around the ambulatory and then thanked the lady, who remained inside and locked the first door leading from the outside to the ambulatory.
Then I spent a little more time walking around the church, photographing various details.
I also saw a wooden tower here, but it was outside the churchyard. I believe it is part of an open-air museum showcasing traditional buildings, but the museum was closed and it operates only during the three summer months. I was only able to see and photograph one more sculpture.
I lingered a little longer, admiring the church, and then, immensely satisfied, continued on my journey.
I soon arrived in the town of Notodden, which, along with Rjukan, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site for its industrial cultural heritage. It is situated on the shores of Lake Heddal (Heddalsvatnet).
At one point, I managed to capture an interesting traffic sign.
I also stopped at a parking area next to a picturesque little lake from which a stream flowed and I wanted to take photos of this place.
My intention was not to drive aimlessly and stop at every visually appealing spot.
On the contrary, I had a very clear plan: to visit another church that, while not as old or picturesque as the wooden ones I had seen during my stay in Norway, is the largest church in the country. This is the Kongsberg Church. From what I’ve read, its interior is exceptionally beautiful, but... the church is open to visitors only twice a week and only for one hour each time! It would have been nearly impossible to plan my trip around that schedule.
However, that didn’t stop me from wanting to see the church, so I went ahead with my plan. I intended to get out of the car and take a short walk around the church, but when I parked, I first wanted to set up the navigation on both my phone and the car's device (for different reasons, just one device alone wouldn't suffice). I was in total shock when both devices suggested that in order to reach the airport, my final destination, I should take a completely roundabout northern route, which would take about 3 hours! I didn’t have that much time, while the logical route was the "southern route" via Oslo.
I concluded that the navigation devices were clueless; after all, they even suggested taking a roundabout route to Oslo instead of the direct highway, while they also failed to recognise the name of a town on the way to Oslo (yes, modern technology isn’t always the best solution).
Because of all this, I only took photos of the church from the parking lot and then continued on my way.
I barely managed to set up the navigation properly since I needed to get from Kongsberg Church to the highway.
Everything started out great and I was able to head towards Oslo and then to the airport quickly. The estimated arrival time was just a few minutes past the planned time, but still well before my flight's departure.
Then... a catastrophic traffic jam hit. All the cars in both lanes were crawling. I kept checking the time and the remaining distance, but the cars continued to crawl, sometimes coming to a complete stop. It was fortunate that I was in the left lane, as it was moving a bit faster. I had no idea how long the queue was or how long it would last, while the time was ticking away. Then, suddenly, everything seemed to start moving again as if nothing had happened.
I didn't dwell on the reasons and managed to reach Oslo. There, I was able to fine-tune the navigation on both devices, so everything was under control.
I also stopped at a gas station to refuel, as required before returning the car, and then continued towards the airport. I was less than 30 km away.
And then... another traffic jam, worse than the previous one. There was more stopping and when it moved, it only covered a few metres at a time. At one point, an ambulance passed in the emergency lane. It became clear that something serious had happened. It always unsettles me, regardless of who is involved and where it occurs.
But I couldn’t focus too much on the fates of others because I was dealing with my own issues. Time was passing, the deadline for returning the car had arrived and then passed (which worried me the least since I had rented the car for five days, but needed it for only four days and five hours). The cars were still mostly stopped or moving slower than a snail. I began to think about where I might stay overnight in Oslo if I missed my flight. I considered sending a message to my “hosts” in Oslo, where I had rented a room before. Maybe they would have that room available for one more night.
Meanwhile, I kept reminding myself that there was no point in stressing out because things would happen as they would, while my anxiety wouldn't change anything. After all, it would just be another experience in life.
The traffic continued to crawl or stop for a minute or two. Then, suddenly, everything started moving again. Initially, there was congestion, but the traffic moved much faster (though still below the speed limit) and soon it cleared up considerably. I was able to drive safely and quickly to the airport, where I parked the car, took some photos of it (just in case) and then returned the keys.
I arrived on time, checked in smoothly, and a few hours later, I was home, relaxed and at ease.
In conclusion, I can say that the trip to Norway was extremely fascinating for several reasons.
On one hand, it was a new destination that I knew was very beautiful, but also quite expensive. Both descriptions turned out to be accurate.
In Oslo, I felt as though I had lived there before; everything seemed easy to navigate and orient myself, and everything went smoothly and effortlessly.
Travelling by car through southern Norway was spectacular. I wouldn’t have been able to see and do so much in such a short time any other way. I had incredible luck with the weather – it was ideal. Although one day was quite cloudy and there was some sporadic rain, it was nothing compared to what it could have been. So, I repeat, I was exceptionally fortunate in that regard.
The impressions and the beauty of the landscapes, which I tried to capture with my camera and phone, filled my soul to such an extent that I felt as if I had spent a month exploring this magically beautiful country.