Cyprus 2017, part 6 (Troodos)
On the second day of our sightseeing of the mountain massif Troodos, we approached it from the “side” direction, i.e., from the east after getting of the Larnaca – Nicosia motorway. We were actually very glad to go along this way, for it gave us an opportunity to see some less visited parts of Cyprus.
First we went to Palaichori village and there we wandered a little, because at one point the signs pointing to the church had stopped. Thus we came to the centre of the village and at one shop a girl working there advised us to go to the local museum where I found the telephone number of the contact person displayed at the entrance door. The museum was being renovated, but the door was wide open, so I entered inside expecting to find somebody for more instructions, but there was only a construction worker there. Then I returned to the girl from the shop, gave her the phone number and she immediately dialled it. As it turned out, she spoke with a man who was fluent in English and who later greeted us in front of the church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Metamorfosis tou Sotiros). In order to make sure we would get there fine, the girl from the shop even drew us a map. They were really wonderful and very kind!
So, we went back along the road that had led us to the centre and then we made the correct turn which guided us to the church where our host was waiting for us, but there was also a priest with him. We greeted them both and they asked where we were from, and when we said, the priest said with a hint of appreciation in his voice that we were brethren (thinking of Orthodox Christianity) “right?” We smiled and confirmed. Generally speaking, we concluded that Serbs seemed quite popular in Cyprus. During our stay we had several chances to speak to some Bulgarians who always welcomed with delight the information about our origin (they associated this, by the rule, with Serbian folk music singers) and we also spoke with a couple from Russia who apparently adored Belgrade which they had visited “some ten times.”
Following this greeting, our host led us into the church and explained absolutely beautifully all kinds of details in connection with the church and its wall paintings. In addition to the stunning frescos on the walls, it was interesting to see painted and adorned wooden beams – both the perimeter beams and the traverses. In one, already rather paled spot on a traverse it was possible to see two figures with halos, while there were a lot of floral and stylized ornaments along the perimeter beams. We truly enjoyed this church guided by the story of our host. It was a great pleasure listening to him. He also gave us a permission to take photos.
And it was also great that somebody finally explained to us the architectural element that we had already encountered. Namely, there was a lateral addition built upon the smaller church and all of that was put under a single roof. Here is what it is all about. Originally, only the smaller church was built, but as it turned out over time, it was too small to receive all worshipers, so in this way the space belonging to the interior of the church was expanded. And not only that, but on the outside of the original church they did frescos in such a way that they faithfully duplicated the icons that were on the left and on the right sides of the iconostasis in order for the worshipers who were on the “outside” to have the same sensation as if standing in front of the iconostasis.
Afterwards we drove to Pelendri village where the Holy Cross church or Timios Stavros is. It was closed, but gorgeous from the outside. We walked around it enjoying different views and angles, and then we just turned our car and went back to the place called Agros where we made a break.
In Agros we first went to a shop with local produce and there I bought locally distilled rose water, as well as rose petals sweet preserve, as souvenirs from my trip to Cyprus. When one mentions rose petals sweet preserve in Serbia, most of the people will tell you this is something our grannies used to make, but nowadays this seems to be only the topic of legends. The recipe could probably be found somewhere, but there is a huge question whether there are the right kinds of roses for the purpose any longer and whether they have been treated chemically or not. All in all, I really wanted to try finally this sweet preserve that I had heard so much about and I can say that it was truly delicious and very aromatic. The problem is that it can be eaten too quickly.
Talking about local produce, I should mention that we came across a large number of signs pointing at different wineries. It is obvious that viticulture is very much developed here, but we did not go to these wine-producing places, first because we did not have too much time and, second, it would not be fair that I tried wine and my friend who drove didn’t. In this area we also saw a lot of rock-supported agricultural terraces with olive trees and vines growing on them. There were also other types of trees for which I can only presume they were almond or pomegranate trees. Whatever the species were, it was evident that the people of this area were exceptionally hard working and that they had to put in a lot of effort into their existence.
Following our shopping we went to a local tavern to have a coffee and I can report that traditional Cypriot coffee is the same that may be found throughout Serbia. While we enjoyed our hot beverage, we saw food being brought to a few people who were sitting next to our table and the food looked and smelled phenomenally. Although we were really not hungry, both our eyes and noses were activated and with heavy hearts we eventually decided to move on after all.
The next place we went to was Lagoudera village in the proximity of which there is a church dedicated to Virgin Mary (Panagia tou Araka) from the 12th century and it is one of the most important churches in Cyprus from the Byzantine period. The approaching path was beautiful, but it was completely devoid of people and very quiet, so we presumed this church would also be closed. However, completely unexpectedly, as it turned out the church was open. It consists of two parts of the construction. Within there is a church made of stone with frescos both on the outside and inside, and all of that is surrounded by a wooden structure the walls of which are made of diagonally placed wooden laths, so it was possible to peer through them at the stone construction as well.
We entered the church and there we came across an elderly man who sat inside surrounded by three heaters. Without moving, he said something in Greek, we said we didn’t understand, so in broken English he mumbled that no taking of photos was allowed either inside or outside, as far as the stone church was concerned. When we finished with our sightseeing and when we got out, I figured how to act partially in line with the instructions and how to beat the “system”: I would take photos through the wooden laths. That way, I would be completely outside and it would be as if I didn’t take photos inside. I was really naughty. Thus I took a photo of the corner of the church and from there the frescos were barely visible and askew, so I decided to do the same thing from a frontal position with respect to the frescos. When I got opposite of the fresco of Virgin Mary that was within a small arch, I positioned myself and stopped my breath in order to take photo without a slightest move, and when I pressed the shutter the camera simply went dead. I thought the batteries must have been exhausted, but I just hadn’t paid attention to them. I waited a little, sorted the camera out, the battery sign was all right and I positioned myself properly again. And then the same thing happened – when I wanted to press the shutter, the camera simply turned off in the middle of the operation. And then it finally dawned on me: SHE did not want me to take photos of her and reproached me very mildly for my mischief! I felt very much ashamed and embarrassed because I thought I was “smart” and I truly repented my action. With a deep feeling of mortification at my own stupidity, I hurriedly went away from there and the day after, at another church dedicated to Virgin Mary, I lit a candle and asked her to forgive me for my misbehaviour. She is merciful and I hope she will.
By the way, the camera continued to work without any problems or incidents for another day and a half!
The next church on our way was Stavros tou Agiasmati. We had two options how to get there: either to go quite a long way around, which we had no time for, or to try a dirt road through forest that was somehow on our way. Therefore, we decided to continue in the direction of that dirt road with an idea “to see what it looks like.” We got off the asphalt road and crossed a medieval, but renovated and reinforced bridge, got out of the car and roughly concluded that the road was ok. We also saw a sign saying the church was 6 km away. The road was quite good, rather wide, rather flat, although taking us across the slopes of Troodos, and we even came across a couple of more signs which showed us that somebody had indeed foreseen this road as a way to the church, which encouraged us additionally, for there was not a living soul around and the presence of those signs were truly heartening. In addition, we monitored the odometer in the car in order to have a clue as to how much more we had until we reached our destination.
And then, at the fourth kilometre, we came to a road bifurcation and no sign around. What to do now? Since I was in charge of maps and navigation, I decided on one direction. I even ran a little uphill in order to see if the road led somewhere. And it did lead, but after a kilometre of driving on a very awkward section, along a ridge and quite steep, it turned out it led to a wrong side. There was nothing for us to do, but to turn around and go back. Still, it was not all bad that we came there, since we had some stunning views.
Generally speaking, this entire area through which the dirt road led allowed us to enjoy some fantastic panoramas. That is, I was the one who enjoyed in them, since Sneza had to concentrate very well on the driving to avoid some bigger rocks in order for us not to damage the car.
And thus we slowly came to the church of Stavros tou Agiasmati. It was, of course, closed, but we were very happy and proud that we successfully completed the adventure of going from one side of a mountain to another with a help of a small car that we were renting those days. As for this church, we had already known that it was mostly closed since it was some 3 km away from Platanistasa village and that it was necessary to call ahead a priest from the village in order for him to come and open the church. We didn’t organize ourselves quite well, but we were content nonetheless. What we missed out on were frescos from the second half of the 15th century.
Of course, after this church, there was no question whether we would continue to the last, tenth church on our list. We both agreed we would go there, even if we reached it at night. We did not get there at night, there was still light, but it was after 5 pm and the church was closed. This is the Panagia Asinou church near Nikitari village. Even though we could not go in, and its frescos from the12th to the 17th century are considered to be some of the finest in Cyprus, we were not disappointed, for the church was truly beautiful from the outside and located in a perfect setting.
We stayed there for a while to take photos and enjoy, and then we continued with a clear intention of going to a particular restaurant Sneza had noticed when we passed through Kakopetria the previous time. The restaurant, which was a part of an exceptionally beautiful hotel, offered fresh trout in a special sauce that was delicious. However, what made the strongest impression on me was a small coincidence. Namely, at some point we were approached by the owner, a fine elderly gentleman, who started to talk to us and then he told us that if his grandchildren had been there they would have spoken to us in Serbian. How come? Very simply – the son-in-law of this gentleman was from Serbia! We really had very nice time at this restaurant, relaxing well by a large fireplace, but no matter how cosy we felt, we had to move on at some point or another for we were at almost 2-hour-drive from Larnaca and our hotel.