Colombia 2024, part 8 (Bogotá)

After finishing with my visit to the Bogotá Botanical Garden (Jardín Botánico de Bogotá), I walked towards the nearby expansive Simón Bolívar Central Park (Parque Central Simón Bolívar). In fact, these are two parts of the same vast green area, from an urban planning perspective, known as the Simón Bolívar Metropolitan Park (Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar). Its construction began in 1966, it is located almost in the centre of the city and with an area of over 400 hectares, it is actually one of the largest city parks in the world.

Simón Bolívar Central Park

Simón Bolívar Central Park

Simón Bolívar Central Park

Within the Central Park, there is also a large lake and in one part, on the lake’s shore, you can see a temple built in 1968 for the purposes of the Eucharistic Congress held in Simon Bolívar Park.

Simón Bolívar Central Park, a detail

In the park, there are plenty of well-maintained paths, places where you can buy food and drinks, and also playgrounds for children.

Simón Bolívar Central Park

Considering its size, there's plenty of space here to enjoy on the beautiful lawns that stretch between the trees. Some visitors probably stay longer in the park; I even saw small tents set up in a few places.

Simón Bolívar Central Park

Simón Bolívar Central Park

In addition to the people enjoying themselves here, there are also birds. Granted, I had already seen all of this in the botanical garden, but these birds posed so nicely that I couldn't resist taking photos of them.

Great thrush (Turdus fuscater)

Eared dove (Zenaida auriculata)

However, I came to this part of the metropolitan park only to pass through it because my goal was another section, which is Virgilio Barco Park (Parque Virgilio Barco) with its namesake library. After almost an hour of walking, due to stopping and taking photos, I finally reached that part.

The main reason I wanted to come here is that both the park and the Virgilio Barco Public Library were designed by Rogelio Salmona (1927-2007), a renowned French-Colombian architect. He collaborated with Le Corbusier for several years and received numerous prestigious awards.

Although I occasionally mention architecture and even architects in my travel stories, albeit very rarely since it's actually a passing interest for me, I learned about Rogelio Salmona when I was looking at the UNESCO's World Heritage List. Specifically, Colombia's Tentative World Heritage List includes the architectural legacy of Rogelio Salmona. This incorporates seven buildings, four of which are located in Bogotá. Even before coming here, I gave myself the task of seeing these buildings, which I ultimately managed to accomplish.

The first one I came to was precisely the park with the Virgilio Barco Public Library.

Virgilio Barco Park

I won't provide any comments related to the achievements of this architect; instead, I'll just post photos with basic information about the specific objects depicted in each photo. However, before I start with that or, more precisely, before I went to see the Virgilio Barco Public Library, I had to grab something to eat. I was especially inspired when I stumbled upon a small fair within this park.

Virgilio Barco Park, a detail

There were several stands with different types of food and that is always a challenge for me because I never know what to try first. In the end, I went for some sausages with guacamole. They were excellent!

Lunch in Virgilio Barco Park

In order to eat my lunch, I sat on a bench near the food stall where I bought my meal and from there, I could watch a stage where some sort of concert was taking place.

It is clear to me that I am "out of touch" with the times, so this type of music was quite distant to me. It is very possible that, once again due to my age, I couldn't help but be amazed by what seemed to me an exceptionally vulgar "performance" happening in the middle of the day in a public park. Luckily, I was probably the only one paying "attention" to it. However, I didn't linger there for long either.

I didn't go far – just to another stall. I couldn't miss this; it was craft beer and I must say it was excellent.

Beer in Virgilio Barco Park

After leisurely enjoying the beer while sitting at a table near the stall, I finally went to see the Virgilio Barco Public Library (Biblioteca Virgilio Barco).

Virgilio Barco Public Library

To start with, I walked along a wide path leading to the main entrance of the library. It was evident that Rogelio Salmona alongside concrete also extensively used red brick here, which, as I’ve mentioned earlier, had become very popular in Bogotá over time.

Virgilio Barco Public Library

Virgilio Barco Public Library

Virgilio Barco Public Library

Virgilio Barco Public Library

Virgilio Barco Public Library

I wasn't the only foreign visitor who came here and so I saw an Asian girl with a camera entering the library. I have to admit, it wouldn't have occurred to me to do that if I hadn't seen her, but since I did, I decided to go inside as well. I was very pleased with the experience.

Virgilio Barco Public Library

However, I didn't stay there long; in fact, I managed to find the exit on the other side. This made me even more satisfied because it gave me the opportunity to get a good look at other parts and sides of the library.

Virgilio Barco Public Library

Virgilio Barco Public Library

After exiting the library, I spent a bit more time capturing some details with my camera and then I continued on through the park in the desired direction.

Virgilio Barco Public Library

Virgilio Barco Public Library

While I was taking the previous photo from a gentle slope, I heard some noise and commotion behind me. When I turned around, I saw what was going on. A larger group of guys was playfully re-enacting medieval battles with harmless imitations of weapons. As I positioned myself to capture them better with my video camera, the fighting became less intense, but there were still occasional "attacks" here and there.

But, Virgilio Barco Park is not just a place for intense conflicts. It is also a peaceful place where people engage in significantly calmer activities.

Virgilio Barco Park, a detail

Now I left the park and embarked on a rather tedious walk to my next destination for the day. I could have taken a bus, but I thought it wouldn't be worthwhile. By the time I found a suitable bus line, got to the station and then went where I needed to, it would probably take just as much time and energy.

So I mechanically moved my legs and after a little over half an hour, I arrived at a checkpoint with guard houses. Namely, I wanted to enter the University City of Bogotá (Ciudad Universitaria) since this large area is also on the UNESCO's Tentative World Heritage List.

In the first half of the 20th century, an idea emerged to concentrate all faculties of the National University in one place, as they were scattered throughout the city at the time. Today, this complex, which represents the most important state university in the country, is officially known as the National University of Colombia (Universidad Nacional de Colombia). It was established as a result of an urban, architectural and educational project.

When the construction of the University City began in 1936, Bogotá was a smaller city and the land allocated for the construction was on the western outskirts of the capital. However, the aim of designing the University City in this location was not only to utilise available space on the periphery, as the city was mostly developing along a north-south axis, but also to encourage urban expansion towards the west. Today, this large complex housing the University City is roughly in the middle of Bogotá, a city with a population of 8 million.

By the way, on the western and south-western sides of this vast area, the city also designed the major El Dorado Avenue, which now leads to the El Dorado International Airport where I landed upon arriving in Colombia.

The University City area was designed to be divided into three specialised zones: academic, service and sports areas. Everything is nicely connected by streets and pathways, with the idea of consolidating various faculties in one place. Of course, not all buildings could be constructed at the same time, but the initial structures of simple architecture were painted white, hence the nickname "The White City" (La Ciudad Blanca). A significant number of the buildings have since been declared National Cultural Heritage of Colombia. I also found it interesting to learn, as can be seen on the map, that the core buildings and streets within the University City are shaped like an owl, which is quite charming considering that owls symbolise wisdom.

So, I wanted to see this by simply walking from the northern to the southern entrance of the complex. Of course, this isn't a pedestrian walkway and it's not common for visitors to casually stroll through. When I reached the checkpoint with the guards, I explained what I was interested in. It wasn't just the University City, but also a specific faculty located there that had also been designed by Rogelio Salmona, which I will talk about later. I enthusiastically told them all about it and explained that there are two sites here on the Tentative World Heritage List.

I think they found it all very strange, unusual and certainly interesting that a woman from another continent came all the way to Bogotá to see some buildings. But I was full of stories and enthusiasm, so they took me seriously. They made a couple of calls and asked to see my passport, which I gladly showed them. After their check, they let me in and wished me a pleasant time and walk. I was very happy and content.

First, I passed by the service and auxiliary parts of the complex, as well as the sports fields, and then I entered the area where the concentration of faculties and academic buildings is mainly located.

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

There were benches clearly intended for students to spend time outdoors, but it was Saturday afternoon and I hardly saw anyone during my walk, as you can see in these photos.

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

University City of Bogotá, a detail

One of the more striking buildings I passed by was the Nursing Faculty (Facultad de Enfermería).

University City of Bogotá, a detail

Not far from here, close to the south-western boundary of the University City, there is the Human Sciences Postgraduate Building (Edificio de Posgrados de Ciencias Humanas).

Human Sciences Postgraduate Building

The building was designed by Rogelio Salmona and this is another one of those seven structures jointly listed on the UNESCO's Tentative World Heritage List, with four of them, as I’ve mentioned earlier, being located in Bogotá. This was my second site from this list.

Human Sciences Postgraduate Building

Human Sciences Postgraduate Building

Human Sciences Postgraduate Building, a detail

Human Sciences Postgraduate Building

Human Sciences Postgraduate Building

Human Sciences Postgraduate Building

Human Sciences Postgraduate Building

After circling around the building and taking some photos, I practically finished exploring what interested me here, so I headed towards the southern exit. There was also a guard there and I think he was a bit confused when I explained why I was there on a Saturday afternoon.

This exit leads directly onto El Dorado Avenue, where I saw where to catch the bus back to La Candelaria, as I was already extremely tired. However, to catch the bus, I had to cross the street, which is where the pedestrian bridge comes in handy.

First, I climbed up and from there I took a photo of a very important department within the University City – the department for foreign languages. So, if I had studied in Bogotá instead of Belgrade, this is where I would have attended my lectures.

University City of Bogotá, a detail

This pedestrian bridge is excellent because it offers a fantastic view of El Dorado Avenue, parts of Bogotá and the Eastern Hills.

Bogotá, a detail

Bogotá, a detail

I got off the bus at a place where I needed to pass through a flea market to reach the main square in La Candelaria. For a foreign visitor like me, the sights were colourful and vibrant!

Bogotá, a detail

Bogotá, a detail

Bogotá, a detail

Bogotá, a detail

Bogotá, a detail

Bogotá, a detail

Needless to say, where there are people and shops, there is also food.

Bogotá, a detail

Bogotá, a detail

And then I reached Bolivar Square or Plaza de Bolívar.

Bogotá, a detail

Very tired primarily due to a cold that had been bothering me for a few days and also from all the walking, I just wanted to get back to the hotel. I did stop briefly to eat something, but then I could finally retreat to my room. Since my backpack had arrived the previous evening, I could relax and try to get a good night's sleep to recover for the continuation of my journey.

Verica Ristic

Born and lives in Serbia. Free-lance interpreter/translator for English, but also speaks other languages (this helps a LOT when travelling). Grateful to the Universe for everything.

Belgrade, Serbia

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