Austria 2015, part 4 (Graz, Semmering)
Walking through the centre of Graz, with special emphasis on the Old Town, I also reached the City Park, where I sat for a while to enjoy the pleasant greenery as well as the sunshine. The forecast, namely, showed that in the coming days, throughout Austria, it would be cloudy, rainy and cold.
As for the park, it is quite a large area located in the city centre that was established at the end of the 19th century. Among other things, you can also see the City Park Fountain there that was originally presented at the World Exhibition in Vienna in 1873 as a French contribution. The city of Graz purchased this work of art and installed it here the following year.
A couple of hundred metres from the park, there is also one of the more important squares in the city, Freiheitsplatz. Its name means “Freedom Square” and it symbolises the liberation of the city from Napoleon’s occupation at the beginning of the 19th century. It is surrounded by impressive historic buildings, including the City Hall in the neoclassical style.
The city’s main theatre, which was founded in 1776, is also located here.
I went from the park to this square first, but then I realised that I had actually already passed by several very important sites. It wasn’t a problem, since everything is located within 100–200 metres of each other.
To start with, I went back to the Graz Cathedral.
The church was built in the 15th century and has since served as the main seat of the Catholic Church in the Styria region. Although its architecture combines typical Gothic elements, numerous artistic details from the Baroque period were added during later modifications and renovations.
In the area around the cathedral, as well as throughout the Old Town, various interesting and picturesque details can be seen.
Then I entered the courtyard of the historical and cultural complex known as Graz Castle or Grazer Burg. By the way, the term “castle” refers to a fortified building with towers that served as a permanent residence for rulers or feudal lords, combining the functions of a fortification (defence) and a residence (living space). In any case, from this courtyard I first captured the view towards the cathedral and then spent a short period of time exploring the complex itself.
In the mid-15th century, the city of Graz was entered from the direction of today’s City Park and this was the first part of the city one would reach, where the ruler’s castle once stood, surrounded by city walls. In fact, the nearby cathedral used to be a court church.
During the 16th century, all of this was expanded, and already then the function of the castle shifted more towards administration and less toward military defence. The building also served as a residence for important guests. Nevertheless, the name Graz Castle remained. Today, the former imperial residence and castle, consisting of several wings, is a cultural and tourist attraction that is partially open to visitors, since the complex is still used for administrative purposes.
I did not intend to explore the castle in any great detail, as much as that was possible, but I was very happy to take a closer look at one of the building’s most recognisable architectural elements – the double staircase, located within a protruding cylindrical section.
It is a staircase built between 1499 and 1500, leading from the courtyard to the upper floors. It is characterised by two parallel flights of stairs that rise symmetrically, joining on the floor above and then separating again. They are often also called the “stairs of reconciliation.”
The staircase is decorated with columns, arches and details typical of the late Renaissance, all designed to impress visitors, as the three-dimensional effect of this passage is emphasised and considered a symbol of prestige and power.
I must admit that I was very glad to have come here, as interesting details and viewing angles can be observed.
In addition, on the upper floor I found a good spot to set up my camera, so I took a picture of myself. It was a selfie of sorts, long before the term “selfie” was even invented.
In this part of the city there is also the Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II, which, besides being the site of an imperial tomb, also represents an important Baroque monument in the city.
The mausoleum was built at the beginning of the 17th century and, besides the tomb of Emperor Ferdinand II, it also contains the tombs of other members of the Habsburg dynasty, including his parents and some of his descendants. Ferdinand II (b/r. 1578/1619-1637) was born in Graz and as a member of the Habsburg dynasty he eventually received the title of Holy Roman Emperor. In addition, he held royal and other titles.
I walked around this part of Graz long enough to see the sunlight illuminate the façade of the mausoleum.
In the meantime, I realised that I was thirsty and could use something refreshing to drink. So I took a short break and then I walked a bit more through the Old Town of Graz, which is actually quite small, making it easy to explore. Even if a visitor doesn’t go into museums or churches, the Old Town itself, with its buildings and other details, is interesting and picturesque enough to make the experience enjoyable.
While walking through the city toward the end of my visit, I once again felt inspired to sit down and relax. However, I did this on the other side of the Mur River, rather than in the Old Town, because it was important for me to be closer to my hotel room after having a beer.
And I judged it well, because the beer did catch up with me a little. But after a leisurely walk to the hotel, I was already feeling better, which was important so that I could pack properly, as I was leaving Graz the next day.
So, the following day I took the train to Semmering, which is located on the border between Styria and Lower Austria.
Along the way, I enjoyed the beautiful landscapes visible in Austria and May was a good month for everything to be lush and green.
Semmering is located about 100 km from Vienna and at an altitude of around 1,000 m.
Here, in 1854, the famous railway line was completed, which I will write about later, but it certainly contributed to wealthy Viennese discovering Semmering as a place not far from the imperial capital, yet ideal for relaxation. Times have changed, as has Austria’s political structure, but the beauty of these landscapes remains.
Today, Semmering is primarily known for its ski resorts, with the winter season usually lasting until April. I arrived here at the end of May, so everything was green, which I immediately captured when I settled into a charming guesthouse with a pretty view.
I just dropped off my things in the room and went out for a walk, but the place felt completely deserted. Then again, it has fewer than 1,000 permanent residents.
I had quite specific plans here, but first I needed to eat something. Since the town seemed sleepy and inactive, I returned to my guesthouse, which had an excellent restaurant, and I ordered a combination of dishes from the daily menu. Indeed, I ended up eating very well in the end.
After lunch, I even rested a bit in the room and then I went outside with the intention of taking a good and very purposeful walk.
So, Semmering is known for its beautiful Alpine scenery and is home to an important mountain pass that forms a natural boundary between the provinces of Lower Austria and Styria. It is not just an administrative line, but a transition from the mountainous world of Styria to the lower, gentler terrain of Lower Austria. It also marks a climatic boundary and a watershed. Although all the rain that falls in this area eventually ends up in the Danube, the path it takes varies greatly depending on which side of the watershed it falls.
Above all, it was the beauty of the landscape that once attracted aristocrats and nature lovers, and Semmering is often called the “birthplace of Alpine tourism.” In winter, as I’ve mentioned, skiing is the main attraction, while in summer hiking and cycling are popular. The surroundings are rich in forests and mountain pastures, and I decided to experience it all myself through a walk.
I started from the guesthouse where I was staying and first followed the paved road, enjoying the picturesque view of both the nature and the houses visible in the area.
As the road made a large curve, I could see a church a little further ahead, which I reached a short while later.
Before exploring the church, I also took a picture of the part of the settlement I had just passed through.
And then I headed towards the church, admiring both its architecture and the picturesque neighbouring house.
The Holy Family Church was built at the end of the 19th century, at a time when Semmering was becoming a popular mountain resort. Its architecture is simple yet elegant and everything is harmoniously integrated into the surrounding natural landscape.
Continuing my walk, I first took a picture of the back of the church and then I simply followed the path I had been on.
Occasionally, picturesque details of human activity could be seen, but more often it was the beautiful landscapes that this part of Austria is rich in.
Thus, I reached a spot that serves as a viewpoint to get a good look at the famous local Südbahnhotel.
It is one of the most famous historical buildings in the area and represents a symbol of tourism development. Before the construction of the railway in Semmering, tourism was usually focused on valleys, but based on certain ideas, the director of a railway company purchased an estate here and thus this hotel, with 60 rooms, opened in 1882. Very quickly, it became a luxurious gathering place for aristocrats, artists and wealthy guests from across the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
The hotel was significantly expanded between 1901 and 1903. But it was not just a place for a lively social scene, with gambling, entertainment and the like; the entire area was also considered a top spa destination. Of course, there are no thermal springs here, but its “spa” character comes from the fact that people came for the clean mountain air, the moderate climate and the tranquillity, which were considered therapeutic, especially for lung and nervous ailments. That makes perfect sense to me and I could easily imagine myself spending a couple of weeks walking around or sitting on a terrace, gazing into the distance.
The hotel later lost its significance and was even closed for a time, but today it is back in operation. I walked in its direction, but did not stop there.
Along the way, I came across a few more picturesque details.
One of them was a memorial plaque for Prince Johann II of Liechtenstein (b/r. 1840/1858-1929). The Liechtenstein family owned large estates in this part of Austria and after the railway was built, the prince supported the development of tourism – constructing villas, hotels and maintained walking paths. What interested me more, however, was how the tree gently embraced the plaque itself.
I also passed near the entrance of the previously mentioned Südbahnhotel without stopping and then continued along one of the streets, enjoying the picturesque and well-maintained local houses and details, as well as the greenery.
Until the rain started. Although I had a jacket with a hood, I still had to take shelter for a bit in order to avoid getting too wet.
Fortunately, the rain didn’t last long, so I was able to set up my camera in a convenient spot and take a picture of myself.
I continued onwards, now gradually descending the street towards the railway station. Although there were still picturesque details, they were somewhat sparser here, while there was more greenery.
Soon, the clouds largely cleared and the sun came out – just in time for me to turn onto a footpath and leave the paved road.
That way, I reached the area above the Semmering railway station, but there was no need to go down to it.
In fact, it was enough to follow a footpath that starts from the slope above the railway. I took another picture of myself here and then set off on a very enjoyable walk. In total, from the guesthouse, through the surrounding area, and then up to a viewpoint and back, I walked for almost four hours and was extremely satisfied with the whole experience.
More about the walk along this footpath will be shared in the next part of the story from my trip to Austria in May 2015.